On the Way to Island

We are at the middle of Denmark Strait but if we look outside it looks more as we are somewhere at Caribbean Sea. No wind, no waves, no fog and no rain. It is really unbelievable weather, as for that region of the Atlantic Ocean.

Day at sea is usually the day when lecture program is at the full speed. Many of use the opportunity to learn more about what we have seen and what we might see at Island. It is also time to relax and enjoy the beautiful weather on the outside decks.

Late afternoon we had Farewell Capitan’s Cocktail. Yes, our trip is getting in to the end. Just two more nights on board and we have to fly home. Right after that we had an auction of Hurtigruten flag which waved on MV Fram mast during our whole voyage, followed by auction of navigation chart of Greenland with our route marked on it. The chart was also beautifully decorated by one of our staff member, Greenlandic artist – Miki. All together we collected 1000 US dollars. The money will be donated to “Association for Greenlandic Children” to help the Greenlandic youth get better education.

Hvalsey and Qaqortoq

In the morning we visited the best preserved Norse (Vikings) ruins in all of Greenland – Hvalsey farmstead. According to Sturlubók Landnámu, one of the Old Icelandic Norse (Viking) texts, the farm was established by Thorkell Farsek – Erik the Red’s cousin, in around 985 A.D. The last confirmed Norse (Viking) event in Greenland – a wedding in 1408, also took place at that farm. Even after more than 1000 years the church ruins are still in quite good shape. It was fairly easy to picture how busy live must have been on the farm around 600 years ago, while walking between the ruins with the sheep from the nearby farmhouse running around.

 

Shortly before noon we heaved the anchor and during the lunch we sailed to Qaqortoq – south Greenland most populous town. Everybody enjoyed either visiting the museum, walking around the fountain at the old town square or strolling through the town in search for “Stone and Man” sculptures. Some visited the Great Greenland Tannery or made a 11 km nature walk around the Great Lake.

Ivittuut – rocks & minerals

Today’s landing was scheduled at 14:00 so we started our day with briefings and lectures. We also had some time for ourselves which was nice. In the morning it was a bit foggy but as we approached Ivittuut the weather cleared up very nicely and we started landing according to plan. Ivittuut is a ghost town today but in the past it was quite a busy town built around a cryolite quarry. The mining started in the 1920s and with time the mine became the world’s biggest cryolite source, bringing incredible wealth to Ivittuut. Why was that mineral so expensive? By adding cryolite to aluminium oxide, the melting temperature of aluminium was lowered by half at this reduced production costs immensely. Discovery of synthetic replacement for cryolite in the beginning of 1980s brought an end to the mining. Today only a few buildings and a 80m-deep quarry filled with water resemble splendour of the town. One of the buildings was turned to a museum and had a display of minerals which could be found around the mine. 

 Not only minerals were the highlight. We have seen Musk ox! In 1988, 19 specimens were introduced and by 2012 are about 500 of them.

Sisimiut

We started the day with a short briefing about planed activities in Sisimiut. In the plan were three optional excursions: Historical walk to Teleisland, boat trip to Assaqutaq and hike to Palaasip Qaqqa Mountain. We were informed that the Palaasip Qaqqa hike is more a climb than a hike (4-5 hours steady, steep climb up to over 500 m above sea level) and that only very fit people should consider that excursion.

We were also informed that this was “Plan A” and due to thick fog some changes might occur. Indeed, as most of us noticed already during the breakfast, the visibility was not good and some of us were even talking about possible changes. Oh well, that’s expedition so we were prepared for that.

Miraculously, as MV Fram entered the Sisimiut Bay,the fog gradually started to disappear. We were back in “Plan A” but the so called “expedition troll” stayed with us. We could do all planed excursion but … we couldn’t go with Fram alongside to the pier. A cargo ship was on its way to Sisimiut and they had priority to use the pier. Conclusion: we had to stay at anchor and use our Polar Circle Boats to bring us ashore. No problem – it’s fun to have a ride in these speed boats. Especially in this calm, sunny weather.

We stayed in Sisimiut till 15:30 so we had also enough time to visit the town. The old town, museum and local handicraft workshop were really worth a visit.

Before we left, one Inuit came in his kayak close to the Fram and made a incredible show for us. It is unbelievable how great skills these people have in handling a kayak.

So, how was the day? … Let’s the pictures do the talking!


View from Palaasip Qaqqa



Bethel Church from 1775



In the town



Kayak show

Day 1 of A Greenlandic Adventure

Our charter flight landed at the Kangerlussuaq airport shortly after 16:00. Indeed, most international flights to Greenland utilize the same airport. It is the gateway to Greenland. The small town is very utilitarian looking which is not surprising. Originally it was a United States air base called Bluie West 8. It was built in 1941 at a time when Denmark could no longer ensure Greenland's safe supply and security.

We were met at the airport by some of the Expedition Team from the MS Fram. Before long we boarded a bus which was to take us to the ship. A quiet, lonely road wound through an austere, rocky landscape and then suddenly, the road ended and there was the fjord.

And there lay the ship. Our new home away from home. A quick five minute boat ride brought us to the ship. We were very efficiently checked in on deck three, issued I.D cards and room key-cards and then escorted to our rooms.

 Before we heaved the anchor, at 18:00 there was a mandatory safety drill. At 21:00 the Captain gave a warm welcome speech. We were also introduced to the officers and some of the key personnel on the ship including the Expedition Team.

 

Now it is 22:00 and Fram glides gracefully down the fjord. There is a light breeze. The sea is so calm that watching the inspiring scenery glide by is like watching a 3D movie. Only it is not a movie. You are here. This is real. The adventure you dreamed about is just beginning.Kangerlussuaq is situated at the head of a 170 km Fjord of the same name. Kangerlussuaq means the long fjord.