Coffee and Cake at Kviknes

Kviknes Hotel is the most prominent feature of Balestrand, elegant on the outside and a comfortable stop since the early days of tourism. Fram’s guests stopped here for morning coffee and cake after a walk of the historic sites.

Ciderhuset hosted a tasting of their products, and later those hiking with the Expedition Team returned through their orchards from the hills above the strand. Reaching a viewpoint high above Sognefjord the combination of snow, sun, plants and birdsong in the forest added to the pleasure of walking

Leaving Norway by afternoon the course was set to cross to the Shetland Islands passing the oils rigs of the Troll Field.

Sognefjord in Sunshine and Snow

Fram slipped into the Nærøyford at breakfast time for a look at this special part of the fjord system. Turning at Gudvangen at its head, it was clear that this year Spring is very late, even at sea level there are still parts to defrost.

At Flåm, as always the Flåmsbana rail excursion was popular. Storms overnight had left deep powder snow at higher elevations. The waterfall stop was magical. At the summit of Myrdal, the mainline Bergen-Oslo track on the adjacent platform was totally invisible. Suddenly, and almost silently an engine emerged from the tunnel, the plough on the front doing its job effortlessly. The connection to Aurlandsfjord from Bergen made, the return to Fram was without delay despite the now blizzard conditions.

Moving on to another arm of the Sognefjord, bright sunshine finally emerged, lighting the snow capped mountains, and making for a pleasant walk to an evening visit.   Another UNESCO listed treasure, built for private use by a powerful family, Urnes Stave Church is perched on a hill above Lustrafjord. One of the oldest and best preserved examples of the few still standing, the church warden explained the fine details found both inside and out.

City to Untouched Nature

From Mount Aksla above Ålesund, the view this morning included Hurtigruten’s Vesterålen on pier. After a disastrous fire in 1904 this city was completely rebuilt in Art Noveau style. More than 320 of these buildings side by side, create a city that is completely different in architecture from the others on our cruise.

Mid morning a group left to travel overland and by local ferry to Geiranger, visting a working farm enroute. Stopping at a viewpoint high above the small community they were able to watch Fram arriving for the second stop of the day

On board, setting out on Storfjord, followed by Sunnylvsfjorden and then turning the corner into Geirangerfjord, twhere the water had become like mirror glass. As yesterday, this particular fjord landscape considered so exceptional a part of the world that it has been included on the World Heritage List.

Skageflå was last farmed in 1916. Our hikers set off by Polarcirkle to reach its front path. There is no question that it is a steep climb to this farmstead 250m above the fjord. But also that it is worth the effort.  Not just views down the fjord and across to snowcaps and waterfalls, but also beautifully reflected.

Just how Narrow?

Starting shortly after dawn in the UNESCO listed Nærøyfjord, there was a new addition to the many excursions offered in Norway – walking along a 6 km section of the Royal Postal Route from Oslo to Bergen, constructed circa 1660. Just 250 metres separates these shores at the narrowest point.

Tendering to shore, Head Chef Eirik went ahead with supplies to set up a breakfast camp. Aided by Expedition staff a hearty picnic was served. 

The rain may not have made for the best photographs but the waterfalls bursting from up to 1600m above and thick carpets of mosses either side of the path more than made up for the wet conditions.

Illustrating just how different the weather can be just around the corner in the next arm of the Sognefjord there was sunshine … however Myrdal Station at the top of the Flam Railway blew with snow.

The line of the old navvy road, used by those constructing the tunnels became outlined in the landscape. The Flåmsbana connects with the main Bergen-Olso line, and is considered a special feat of engineering. In 20 km of track climbing 866 metres with 20 tunnels, 18 of which were dug by hand.

Returning down the longest fjord in the world, we stopped at Balestrand. Again tendering, all could enjoy the sights of this community, as well as sample local apple juice and cider.

First Fjord of the Spring Adventure

Many were up to see a stunning dawn on Lysefjord as we cruised down and back to see both Kjerag Boulder and Preikstolen Rock – the Pearl and the Pulpit. The Kjerag Peak rises 1,000m above the water, its sides vertical. The horizontal top of the Preikstolen a sharp contrast.

The weather was kind enough till noon then not. High wind and squalls of rain dampened the look of even this brightest of places, many of the buildings are white painted, particularly those of the C17th and C18th Old Town. Undaunted, café’s attracted customers heated legs to their outdoor tables. For the Norweigan’s working on Fram, this was a chance to catch up with native news, mustard and chocolate.

Since the late 1960’s Stavanger traditional employment of fishing and shipbuilding has evolved to include many services for the oil and gas industry and the expatriates it employs. As a service port there are always some interesting specialist vessels to see, as well as having an excellent Petroleum Museum, the building designed to resemble an oil rig. With your admission you can even try out an emergency chute from the roof . That’s not mandatory!

Peter the Great, founder of St. Petersburg, recruited Stavanger born Cornelius Cruys. Tempted to the start of his 25 year service by the offer of a post as vice-admiral he emigrated to Russia in 1698 and became the Tsar’s most important naval adviser. Commanding the Russian fleet in the Baltic and masterminding the construction of Kronstadt fortress he was rewarded with the top rank of Admiral in 1721. Today, his statue stands looking to the sea.

Boarding in Hamburg

The huge inner city redevelopment of Hafen City is the location of a new cruise terminal on the Elbe. Here old and new rub shoulders. A mix of glass, steel, open terraces and gardens and the historic. Traditionally the church of seamen, St. Catherine’s Church dating from the 13th Century is one of the oldest buildings remaining. The port has been a vital source of income since those merchant days of the Hanseatic League.

Hamburg has a number of significant buildings in a wide range of styles, one from classical modernism is the Chilihaus, completed in 1924. An easy walk from Fram this extraordinary office block is shaped as an ocean liner using almost 5 million dark Oldenburg bricks. On Germany’s list as a potential submission for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List it was commissioned by Shipping magnate Henry B. Sloman after making his fortune trading saltpeter from Chile. Hence the name.

Arriving guests strolled up the terminal gangway to check in, collect their jackets and find their way around before the Safety Drill. Explanation of Fram’s safety equipment and procedures are tannoyed from the bridge. Off in the fading light of the day, a toast at the Captain’s Welcome, then next stop Norway.

A Change of Plan ...

Dropping anchor off Sark, not far from Creux Harbour, a grey dawn turned into bright sunshine. Sadly the wind and sea conditions were not safe enough to transfer to this stunning small island. Instead we headed on for our next call to Guernsey.

Arriving at the east coast town of St. Peter Port luck changed. Castle Cornet dating to the13th Century stands guard over the deep natural harbor.  All who wished were able to enjoy extra time exploring this charming capital. First timers impressed with the ease of getting in and out of Polar Cirkle boats both from Fram’s platform and at the quayside.

Buildings are stacked up on the steep hillside from where, on such a clear day, there were great views back to Sark and its neighbours Herm and Jethou.

Starting off in perfect afternoon weather, those on the Island Drive excursion had perfect panorama’s. Heading south from the harbour the road’s steep twisting incline is used for vehicle hill races. From this route there were clear views back to Sark and its neighbours Herm and Jethou. Heading on around the island anti-clockwise the chatty driver guides brought the Island history, sights, traditions and current trades to life.

Some explored independently, others joined a local guide on a walking tour to hear the history of the town and Castle Cornet, stopping for refreshment in the fortress itself.  By late afternoon rainy mizzle had set in, so it was no hardship to return to the ship to enjoy the Filipino buffet and Fram crew show.