Welcome to the Antarctic Peninsula

As we had quite a storm during our crossing from South Georgia to the Peninsula we had a delay of half a day. Our first landing that had been planned at the Polish Arctowski Station, we could not manage. But the weather changed from wind and storm to beautiful sunshine and so we enjoyed our morning on board, looking for seabirds, whales – and at least we saw some blows – and of course we made hundreds of pictures from our first view of the Antarctic Peninsula.

There was again this feeling to be in paradise.

Around 16:00 we reached Half Moon Island and then the moment came when we could set our first step in Antarctica. As there has been no wind and lots of sunshine it was so warm. Nobody expected this and so nearly everybody was dressed up too warm!

Chinstrap Penguins were waiting for us and welcomed us in their huge colony. A Weddell Seal was sleeping directly on the beach next to our landing site. The whole landscape was covered with snow. We got the feeling that we and the penguins, and of course the Weddell Seal, have been together with some gulls and skuas the only living creatures on earth.

The lecture staff flagged a route into the snow that we could follow easily. And then you could hear the clicking of our cameras all over the place. Thousands of pictures were done from the magnificent landscape and the Chinstrap Penguins.

FriedaPhoto

On one place in the penguin colony we could find a Macaroni Penguin sitting in the middle of hundreds of Chinstraps. Everybody tried to get at least a view on this “generally” sub-Antarctic bird.

FriedaPhoto

At the same time our kayakers started their first kayak round in Antarctica. Congratulations to all of them. To see them alone in front of this amazing glacier scenery was incredible.

In the later evening our Captain Rune Andreassen gave us a special plus. As we had still some daylight he went through “Neptune’s Bellows” into Deception Island, this amazing caldera in a still very young (out of a geological view) and active volcano. In the caldera we have been able to get a little impression of the old whaling station in Whaler’s Bay. Thanks to the captain to give us this unexpected experience.

Photo: Joe Decker

The evening ended with a fruit- and ice carving show done by our very creative galley crew. It is amazing how they can change fruits and ice into amazing art!

Hei Bloggen!

I'm the Trainee for this trip, my name is Niri Tveita and I'm from Norway.

I've been asked to write the blog for today, and another one at the end of this trip.

When I got an email from the expedition team, telling me that I've got a trainee spot on the MV Fram I was extremely happy. Sailing on a boat in the south sea! Awesome!

I was very excited. I started packing 2 weeks before, and terrorized Karin, one of our Expedition Leaders, with emails about what to bring. Now I've been here for 5 days and the strongest feeling is how lucky I am to be here.

There has only been sea days, but I'm enjoying it a lot. I can't wait to arrive at the Falklands and from there on! I feel very welcome be on the expedition team and I like working with them. 

Today we tested boot sizes, a lot of boots were flying around on deck 2 and 3 but I think everyone had a god time. The boots we need when out on snow, mud and penguin droppings..! 

The weather today has been very nice, just like the last days. But, we are soon entering colder waters and the the air temperature will also fall. We are getting more and more south as you read this! 

Northern Giant Petrel

Brekstad

We are in Central Norway.  We had spectacular scenic cruising throughout the morning as we weaved our way through many narrow passages between countless islands in beautiful Stokksund.  At times the shore seemed no more than 30 or 40 metres from the ship.  The scenery here is more rural than rugged Norwegian Fjord frontier.  There is more agriculture evident now as we ply our way further south.  We see fields where the crops have been harvested and where cows are grazing.  

Not only was the scenic cruising really good in the morning but we also had the option of attending several lectures.  At 09:45 Tessa Van Dries told us all about everyone's favourite celestial light phenomena, the aurora.    At the same time Steffen Biersack gave  a lecture in German about the principles of navigation.  At 11:00 Andrew Wenzel gave an interesting talk entitled, Demons From Hell - Killer Whales. At the same time Ralf Westphal gave a fascinating talk in German about Haudegen, the last German Arctic weather station in the 2nd world war.

At 13:00 we dropped anchor just outside the charming small city of Brekstad.  It was a beautiful day.  A light breeze was blowing and the sun was shining through large gaps in the cloud cover.  The Brekstad Hotel and community cultural centre was open for us.  Inside there two different galleries for us to explore including a great exhibit featuring the famous Norwegian artist Hannah Ryggen.  The hotel offered us Aquavit to sample and a variety of Norwegian foods.  There was also lots of opportunity to explore the community on our own.

Several people went on a bicycle excursion along the shore line while others went on a motor coach tour of the area which culminated at Austrått Manor.

At 18:45 the last Polar Cirkel boat was back at the ship and Fram weighed anchor.

In the evening we were entertained by the crew singing some classical popular songs in the Observation Lounge.

Alstahaug and Vega

The Expedition Team at Alstahaug
(Photo © Joe Decker)

We are now south of the Arctic Circle.  We passed that significant point of latitude at 05:00 this morning.  Most of us were sleeping rather soundly.  About three hours later we arrived at Alstahaug a borough of approximately 7500 people spread over 917 islands and islets.  The landscape has changed from the high, craggy fjords of Raftsundet to many low lying islands.  

Inside the church in Alstahaug where Petter Daas the poet parson
worked.  (Photo © Joe Decker)

There isn't a pier for Fram in Alstahaug which meant of course that we would use the trusty Polar Cirkel boats to tender everyone in.  A light rain was falling when we arrived and continued on and off throughout the landing.  The stop here featured an old church which we could visit and the Petter Dass museum.

The church is one of only seven Northern Norwegian medieval churches that been preserved.  The church's initial construction was in the year 1200.  the oldest parts of the church are built in the Romanesque style with soapstone.

The Petter Daas museum in Alstahaug (Photo © Joe Decker)

Petter Daas was the parson poet that lived and worked in Alstahug from 1689 until his death in 1707. The museum was not open  but the building itself was a marvellous piece of architecture and the installation of the building quite a feat of engineering. 

The bucolic setting was very peaceful. Sheep grazed in a nearby field.  Glaucous Gulls soared along the sea side and Hooded Crows called back and forth.   One felt restful just being there.  It was easy to see where the great poet got some of his inspiration.

In the afternoon we stopped at the small community of Vega.  A light rain was falling as we rode the Polar Cirkel boats to a pier in a small marina.  Many people went on a motor coach tour to learn about the unique relationship between the Eider Ducks and generations of fishermen/farmers.  Over the last 1500 years the local people have harvested eider down.

There are 6500 islands in the Vega Archipelago.  These islands have a relaxing beauty that is quite different from the dramatic fjords we experienced earlier in the voyage.  Vega itself is a sleepy little community.  If you didn't choose to go on one of the local excursions there was a pleasant walk which led through the marina around the community and back to the pier again.   

At 20:00 we lifted anchor and once again turned our bow to the south.

Sisimiut

Early this morning the water was like glass. The wind was light and variable as we approached Sisimiut.  It looked like it was going to be a great day.  By 11:00 we were alongside the dock.  Sisimiut has a lot to offer.  It is the second largest city in Greenland with a population of approximately 5350 people.  It is important historically, economically and culturally.  

To get to town one has to walk through the small but very beautiful harbour.  It is just loaded with colourful fishing boats both large and small.  You walk by crab traps and even what appears to be a grave yard for old outboard motors!

There is a fine museum that has lots of artifacts from local digs.  People settled this region in waves and the museum has examples from the Saqaq Dorset and Thule cultures.  The third photograph is of the inside of an Umiaq, a boat made from seal skin that only women used.  This is a rather large Umiaq that several people would paddle together.
There were several options for excursions.  some people chose to go a rather challenging 6 hour hike to the top of Palaasip Qaqqa mountain.  They had a perfect day for it.  You can see all of Sisimiut from that lofty peak.  Others chose to go to the ghost town of Assaqutaq.  All afternoon blue jacketed people could be spotted on walking tours through town or out to Tele Island.
There was plenty of time to go on an optional excursion or two and still have time to explore the town on your own.
Just before our departure we were treated to a really great demonstration from expert kayakers.  There are 36 ways to roll your kayak and I think we saw most of them.
As we head for Qeqertarsuaq we have calm seas and a lovely warm sunset.

Seize Your Vacation

I believe you will look back at this blog in years to come and be reminded of the happy days you spent with us on Fram in Greenland.  That is how confident I am that you are going to have a great time with us.

The initial photograph is close to the moment in time when you first saw the ship. You were standing on an isolated pier in the middle of Greenlandic wilderness.  It was a gorgeous sunny day.  Some of you were surprised at how nice the weather was.  Kangerlussuaq has 300 hundred cloud free days per year so the odds were pretty good that it would be sunny when you arrived. You were just about to hop on a Polar Cirkle boat which would bring you to your home-away-from-home.  Look at all of those happy smiling faces.  A year from now, two years from now, when you look back at this day by checking the blog I am sure you will be smiling again.

After the checkin process on deck three was over and you were shown to your room, it was soon time for dinner.

At 20:30 there was a mandatory safety drill on deck five which was immediately followed by Captain Rune Andreassen's welcome speech.  We were introduced to some of the ship's officers and the expedition team.

For many of you, travelling to Greenland has been a dream for a very long time and now, finally you are here.  I wonder if that has sunk in yet?

All of you are on vacation in a very special place with incredible scenery and wonderful people.   Make the most of it.  Relax. Enjoy the ship and everything it has to offer.  Attend lectures.  Go to the crew show.  Try the jacuzzi.  Meet the crew.  Get to know your fellow passengers.  Where else will you meet people from different parts of the world all sharing a common interest.   When you have the opportunity on shore, go exploring.  Try some of the local food. Go on hikes with us.  Try an excursion or two. We will do everything to make sure you have a fantastic vacation but you have to do your part too.

Seize your vacation.  You are in Greenland!  Kalaallit Nunaat.