Rocking and Rolling

Our summer holidays continue but today we have had a day of rocking and rolling. Heavy seas meant that fresh air was in short supply with access to the outside decks limited for safety reasons. With strong westerly winds pushing the ship along all day towards our next destination - South Georgia.

During the day the expedition team continued lectures on the history, geopolitics and wildlife of South Georgia preparing us for our visit. Whilst Pablo and Nacho our Vantage tour leaders gave an entertaining lecture on Gauchos and Mate.

The bird life continued to be rich and varied with lots of Wandering Albatross amongst our frequent visitors.

Having sailed almost 1500 miles from our start point in Buenos Aries most on board have found our sea legs, but some interesting walks are to be seen coping with the moving ship. As we move further east we move our clocks forward one hour tonight.

Settling into ship life

A beautiful calm night and some much needed rest for all on board MV Fram prepared us for a beautiful morning. Out on deck in short sleeves with fantastic clear skies we were treated to numerous bird sightings – Manx and Greater Shearwaters, Black-browed and Yellow-nosed Albatross, Magellanic Penguins, White-chinned Petrel as well as some stowaways – Eared Doves, Couch’s Kingbird, Grassland yellow-Finch and 
inside a dragon fly.

The lecture programme started in earnest with John introducing the natural history of the Falklands and South Georgia, Nacho did a fascinating talk about Evita, Friederike and Bob continued preparations for our visits to the Falkland Islands with talks on the Geography, Geology and the Geopolitics.

We are making good steady progress, only 2 more days until we reach the Falklands, with slightly more motion can be felt in the ship as a result of freshening winds. 

Alkhornet and Skansenbukta.

Alkhornet is a very characteristic landmark at the northern entrance of Isfjorden. It is also a well known bird cliff where few hundred of thousands of birds nest each year. Among the most abundant breeders in this cliff are the Kittiwakes, Brünnich’s Guillemots, Northern Fulmars and also a few hundred Puffins. Their guano fertilizes the soil creating good conditions for lush vegetation. An area rich in grass attracts reindeers and other vertebrates and always there are some grazing in the area. After lunch we had the Capitan farewell cocktail. Yes, our cruise is ending and soon it will be time to pack our luggage and say “good bye” to the Capitan, Officers, Expedition Team and all crew on board of MV Fram.
In the evening we had our last landing at Skansenbukta. This place is another example of wrong investment. In 1918, Dalen Portland Cementfabrikk from Bervik, Norway opened the mine hoping to extract gypsum. Instead they found a mineral named anhydrite and just after one season the mine was closed. In the 1930s, ship owner Kjøde reopened the mine and closed it again for the same reason as its predecessor. Our BBQ dinner was the last event of today. In two hours we’ll be in Longyearbyen. Now is definitely time to pack the luggage!

North Western Part of Spitsbergen

Another calm night, in the morning the sea fog was covering the Ytre Norskeøya. The further most westerly island on Svalbard. Landing was not advisable, would we be surprised by living white creatures or the wandering souls from the dead men buried on this island?
We sort of speak set sail for another island further in, and let the anchor drop at Alicehamna-Bruceneset. In the beginning of last century this area was used fore trappers which lived here year around. Whalers also visited the place, 2 of them buried in graves that due to the perma frost actually “rose” up from the ground. Parts of the skeletons visible through the exsposed koffins. A beautiful view to the south with a mirror like calm sea with shades of different bleu colours reflected the chain of alpine mountains with glaciers and remains of snow. Some of us had the guts to jump into the Arctic Ocean and rewarded with an official Fram diploma.
Likneset in Magdalena fjorden was our next landing. On this little peninsular the whalers buried their dead. Out from the number of graves we could see fore ours selves that whaling was a high-risk employment. No HMS in those days. Fore those that had been enjoying the pleasures of our superb kitchen there was a 2 hours walk into the glacier. In the pattern we have been used to during this trip, we shah how the expedition team go in advance and clear the area. We all feel very confident in how our safety is being taken care of by them. No unpleasant surprises and we all could enjoy the stunning view at the very front of the glacier.

Geology Day.

In the morning the sky was overcast with very low cloud elevation and we were in Lifdefjorden at the front of Monacobreen. Group by group, we did a cruising in the Polar Circle Boats at the front of the glacier. In each boat was one of the staff member who gave us a mini lecture about glaciers, ice and the bird life occurring at the glacier front. It turn out that we were lucky with the weather we had. As the sun was not very bright all tones of blue were visible in a good manner and the pictures came out great, for some.
During the afternoon we landed at Jotunkjeldene in Bockfjorden were thermal springs are located. The groundwater is heated up in the bedrock so that the temperature of the water at the surface is +20°C year around. Springs have also built up carbonate deposits in a form of a terrace and were whitish in color. On the opposite side of Bockfjorden a beautiful formation of Devonian “Old Red” rocks were visible in a wonderful way.
Somebody might argue – why a geology day if in the morning we were by the glacier? Well, if you ask a geologist – the ice is a metamorphic rock!

PS. The idea of a “Geology Day” was a bit “destroyed” by about 50 walruses which we spot on Moffen Island at 23:00.

During the night the captain had brought us past the Prins Karl´s Forland and into Kongsfjorden, Ny London. Situated on an island, and not on a peninsular as the name suggest.(Blomstrandhalvøya). Earlier the Blomstrand breen covered part of the island, it was just when it retreated that it was discovered to be an island. Another discovery done by Mansfield in the 1920th led to optimistic establishment of a marble mine. It turned out to be a poorly investment, as when the marble arrived the continent the quality was so pore that the marble fell apart.
We beached the area in sunshine and no wind, remains’ of the machinery and houses where still situated on the beach. Fore those of us that climbed up the hill, we where rewarded with a grand view across to Ny Ålesund. A few hours later filled with impressions and another tasty lunch onboard MV. Fram we docked at Ny Ålesund.
Ny Ålesund formerly named Kings Bay by the British, was re named by the Norwegians in the spirit of Nationalism that governed in these days after the independency of the young nation. This part of Spitsbergen is at it’s most alpine in resemblance with the west coast of Norway. This is probably the reason of the choice of name. Roald Amundsen, started 2 of his famous expeditions from this area. We spent a couple of hours in one of the most northerly cities in the world. As we entered land a large flock of belugas passed us at 30-40 m. They where twisting and rolling as they gave us an excellent view fore a long time. We could even hear them breath and smell the cod breath from their resperation. Right outside town we sah an old steam train, located right down by the beach. Used fore transport of coal in former days when mining was the only activity in town. The activity was shut down in 1962 when a terrible accident killed 21 miners.
Now days all activity is concentrated on science, environmental studies, glacier, birds etc. All performed by international scientist from all over the world. The location of Ny Ålesund is unique fore this kind of since. At the end of the tour we went out to the mast where the airship Norge with Roald Amundsen started it’s successfully maiden voyage across the North Pole.
Leaving Ny Ålesund we now follow the same course as Amundsen, northwards fore new astonishing impressions of this grand landscape close up to the North Pole.

Is Bellsund a polar bear home???

Our first landing of the day was in Ingebrigtsenbukta or also known as Bamsebu. In the 1930s it was the scene of Beluga whales hunt. Hundreds of them were caught on fishing nets, drag ashore and slaughter for their blubber and skin. It was not only about the history that we learned today as we had the first surprise of the day. When some of us were already ashore a polar bear appeared on the horizon about 1 km away from the landing site. The bear proceeded moving towards the landing site, the expedition staff evacuated all passengers and landing was put on hold on. We were able to watch from the vessel outside decks, as how the polar bear moved by the site where we were just few minutes ago. The beast continued along the shore and when he was more than 1.5 km away we started with the landing all over again.
After lunch we were in Recherchefjorden, and the objective was to see the glacier terminus/snout. However, the landing was also interrupted but not by one but two polar bears. Even that we have to break the landing we still had very good opportunity to watch them from outside decks. Our cruise started two days ago and until now we have seen four polar bears – not a bad start and to be continued.............

Longyearbyen and Barentsburg

Longyearbyen welcomed us with overcast and drizzle. After a bus city tour, and at about 17:30, we embarked on the MV Fram. The check in and expedition jackets distribution went quite smooth. After mandatory safety drill we set sail towards Barentsburg. This Russian mining settlement is located only 45 km away from Longyearbyen but it can be reached only by sea or by air. At 21:00 MV Fram went alongside the pier and shortly after that we started a guided tour over the settlement. The Russian Sate owned company – Arktikugol, bought the mine and surface plant from Dutch N.V.Nederlandsche Spitsbergen Compagnie in 1932. It its heyday Barentsburg had up to 1000 inhabitants, today, the mine is still in operation and about 450 people stay here year round. We were able to do souvenirs shopping, send home some postcards and watch a really good folklore show done by talented Russian miners. Shortly before midnight we were back on board.