Birds galore!

Your faithful blogger is a bird nut so today, with no apologies we are going to feature some birds we saw during our first landing in the Falkland Islands- New Island. And what better place to do this?! The Falkland Islands is “crawling” with birds and New Island is especially so. It is a nature sanctuary, and a variety of management practices are in place to bring the island back to its natural Falkland state. It will take a while but it will happen.

But first, a few details about our day. We were due to land at West Point Island in the northwest part of the Falklands, in the early afternoon. However, very strong winds would have prevented a landing so we detoured farther south to our "plan B" of New Island. Winds were still strong when we arrived but they were blowing off the land and a visit to this marvellous place was possible. Our target was a seabird colony which was a short hike across a narrow portion of the island. Some of us, however, made a hike up a nearby mountain before visiting the colony.

After 5 days at sea being on dry land is such a treat, especially when you can stretch your legs on a hike. And this was our first landing too so there was lots of excitement using our Polarcirkel boats.

For our mountain hikers shown here, the view from the top was truly spectacular!

Those hiking to the colony were treated with various species of birds along the way, and then the icing on the cake- breeding Rockhopper Penguins, King Shags and Black-browed Albatrosses. I hope these images give you a flavour of the place and in particular impress upon you how important for wildlife New Island is.

Rockhopper Penguin pair

Black-browed Albatross coming in for landing

King Shag

Rock Shag

Long-tailed Meadowlark

Ruddy-headed Geese

Crested Duck

Female Upland Goose

A pair of breeding Striated Caracaras

Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant feeding chicks

Sheep and Stories – the Isle of Skye

When we arrived close to Portree the sky was close to us. The clouds were hanging deep and some of the mountains were covered by them, but when we just waited for a short while suddenly other parts became visible. It was like magic.

Today was the first time we used the Polar Circle Boats and therefore is was a special excitement for us. Close to Portree Fram anchored and the first went ashore. Portree is the capital of Isle of Skye with around 2500 inhabitants. There are shops, restaurants, pubs, hotels, schools and the administration. Arriving on a sunday we expected that everything would be closed, but some shops were open and also a Fish & Chips Restaurant. Nevertheless most of the inhabitants went to church and had dressed up. Portree is a lovely town with small and colorful houses and narrow streets. We really enjoyed it to stroll around.

We also had the chance to go on two excursions: to the northern part the so called Trotternish peninsula and to the western part and the Eilean Donan Castle.

The highlands on the Isle of Skye are beautiful with the heathland, many different types of trees and huge flocks of the yellow gorse. And of course sheep – most of them together with one or two lambs. Beautiful and remarkable places in the north are Kilt Rock or the rock formation “Old  Man of Storr” and of course the grave of the Scottish heroin Flora McDonald – who rescued Bonnie Prince Charlie in the 18^th century. The next stop was in the little village Uig.

Going to the south-western part we also saw the heathland and remarkable mountains which are very famous for hiking and climbing. The main stop was at the Eilean Donan Castle an impressive building in the style of a mediaeval castle. The image of Eilean Donan has been seen in many books, on postcards and in movies as the Highlander. We could visit all the rooms of the McRae-family who is now the owner, an amazing place in a very beautiful surrounding. It is a place full of stories and fights.

For the first time on this trip we had the opportunity to go out on a kayak-trip:  An exciting experience in calm water and unexpected encounters with seals. We also discovered quite nice caves.

For all of us, it was a great day.

Did I ever mention that there is a great evening entertainment on FRAM? Last evening Bernie and Beastie invited for a Whiskey tasting and today there will be a fashion show.

Sun, fun and more sun

All the campers survived the night, most taking the scenery, wildlife and colored skies during the very short time the sun was actually below the horizon.

The camp was taken down and the campers came back on board whilst the rest of us visited Peterman Island. The rich and varied bird life kept the photographers and ornithologists busy – Gentoo and Adelie Penguins with Blue eyed Shags all sitting on eggs. The spectacular views out the distant ice berg littered ocean gave the landscape photographers plenty to keep the trigger finger exercised.

We then cruised north through the Lemaire and the lucky thirty did this in a two hour Polarcirkle boat trip. The ice made navingation tricky but luckily the Captain made a path through with the Fram and we sneaked through before the ice closed around us. Minke Whales blessed us with their presence briefly as well as the odd Crabeater seal.

Boats picked up and all back on board we headed to Port Lockroy a museum run by the Antarctic Heritage Trust showing the scientific endeavor and exploration carried out by the post war British Antarctic Explorers. The sun and fun continued with the magnificent backdrop of the Feif range and the seven sisters still with a hefty winter dusting of snow. We all supported the work of the Antarctic Heritage Trust by buying plenty of gifts and postal items in their lovely little gift shop.

To top it all off we cruised in the evening light through the Neumeyer Channel now heading north ready for tomorrows landings. If Yesterday was a Wow then today was a WOW WOW!

What a glorious day.

The sun was gleaming, the wind stayed away and the scenery was fantastic.

Overnight MV Fram sailed south from the South Shetland Islands across Bransfield Strait and into the Gerlache Strait. Lots of us could not contain our excitement and spent the early part of the morning taking in the fantastic scenery. As we were eating breakfast we entered Andvord Bay.

We landed at Neko Harbour and were treated to views of the surrounding mountains, bays and icebergs. Closer to the landing we watched the Gentoo Penguins as they went back and for, in and out of the sea and the fascinating nest building and courtship rituals. The views from up the hill into the crevasses and ice falls of the nearby glacier were just breathtaking. Going down was a lot easier and quicker than going up with gravity and sliding down the steeper sections of the slope was great fun. How could we beat this?

During lunch the Captain repositioned the Ship to the Base Brown, the weather held and we climbed the hill above the base. Giving incredible views of Paradise Bay – very aptly named (even if it was because of the easy picking made by the early whalers) it is still very beautiful.

The evening got even better with the incredible light almost at sunset in the Lemaire channel – WOW! We dropped our campers at Peterman Island. What will tomorrow bring?

Las Islas Fortunas

Heard the name before? The Happy Islands? You do know them, for sure - they are nothing else than the archipelago nowadays known as the Canary Islands. The name has been used for a long, long time and was coined by the Phoenicians when they found in them not only a good place for trade, but an array of peaceful, sunny and mild pieces of land, emerging from the blue seas.

Well, that's just how we see them today, as we reach Lanzarote, second oldest of these - geologically speaking - youngsters: Only 15 million years ago the ocean boiled and steamed before huge clouds of ash were ejected into the skies - an island is born. And should you think that's a thing from the past - think again. The activity is far from over, that's what the guides show us on the excursion to the island's south, which includes a fancy ride on a camel through an unearthly landscape of barren beauty. You wouldn't be surprised to see a mars rover whirring round the corner (just imagine how the guys at NASA would rub their eyes when their images suddenly showed people on camels…).

You really get an idea of the thinness of the layer of crust that separates us from the inner forces of our planet, when a bundle of grass immediately ignites in a hole that is just under two meters deep. The following bus ride through the National Park of Timanfaya, where the Devil is the icon created by Cesar Manrique, is as spectacular as it gets, its like a roller coaster ride through a wild Earth from underneath. 

However, wild and violent is not the first impression that you get when you leave the ship here in Arrecife, everything is breathing the air of holiday and the pace is wonderfully relaxed. You can even take a submarine - a real one, it's even yellow - to go for a 34 meter dive to see ship wrecks and fish, fish, fish.

The whole day we spend here, and towards the evening we crown the day with a barbecue on the outer decks. Munging on a tasty steak while watching the sunset behind the volcanoes - unique!

Alas, this evening means also packing - tomorrow a long and colourful voyage comes to an end, the last trip on the northern hemisphere for this year. Thanks to all who made this time so worthwhile!!

Casablanca Rabat Marrakech

With the clock shifted backwards another hour we could really enjoy our arrival in the harbour of Casablanca. Already before breakfast many guests were standing on the outer decks hoping to get a glimpse of the Hassan II Mosque appearing at the horizon. The harbour was buzzing with activity, many small fishing boats came back from a early morning fishing trip. Today we had the possibility to visit either Casablanca, Rabat or Marrakech. The Marrakech group will stay overnight, so from that tour we will get the report tomorrow. Casablanca is the biggest city of Morocco, with over 5 million inhabitants. It is as well Morocco's main port and is considered the economic and business center of Morocco. Rabat is political capital city of Morocco and is situated around 96 kilometer north of Casablanca. The Medina in Rabat is surrounded by wonderful 16 km long city wall. The city was founded by Almohad dynasties in the 12th century which was one of the Berber dynasties. For the guests that never have been in Morocco before it was a treat to explore the markets and look at all the colorful shoes, lamps, clothes, spices and other goods for sale. The main highlight of Casablanca is the Hassan II Mosque. The mosque is a building of superlatives. Compared to other mosques it always ranges among the first ten on Earth, depending on what you compare. Just the prayer hall measures 20.000 square meters which gives space for 25.000 prayers. The outside area of the mosque takes another 80.000. Or imagine doing your ritual cleaning before praying in a 6.000 square meter hamam.The mosque is build half above water, and the roof can be opened. So praying can be done while being connected to the water - where Gods throne is - and heaven as well. . 

The construction of the mosque took seven years with 2.500 workers on the construction site. And around 10.000 craftsmen and artists as well who worked for example on 67.000 square meters of stucco and 10.000 square meters of mosaic. Small pieces of glazed tiles in different colors form 80 different patterns in typical Arab style. Just one more figure to end with. The Minaret is 210 m high which is the highest on Earth. There are many more figures that could characterize the Hassan II Mosque but none of them is suitable to describe how startled basically everyone is how sees the mosque for the first time. The architect and the workers created a place that is in fact beyond any words and figure