Uumannaq - Ukussisat

One day, two destinations. Too much? Far from it: The day is bright and sunny all the clock round, so time does not seem to matter at all. So in the morning we explore the "Heart-Shaped Mountain", name for village, island and mountain alike. Apart from the ruggedly picturesque mountains the hike leads us into, it houses the official address of Sta. Claus in Greenland. The old man appears to be surprisingly modest, living in a small sod house by the beach. It's probably the location... Those who went to the boat trip to the desert enthuse about colors and minerals and clearest waters.
In the evening we reach Ukussisat, a remote fishermen's village, our northernmost destination. All the inhabitants wait for us at the landing site, like family. And then there's the dancing, and the kaffemik and the laughing, all from the heart. Not easy to leave, but a lot of memories to take with us.

Qeqertarsuaq

Greenlandic names normally are very descriptive. Keeping this in mind, we start for the gentle hike into the "Valley of the Winds", after having marveled at the vast group of really big icebergs that seem to have a family reunion in the Qeqertarsuaq bay. But nature is on our side today - no wind, no mosquitoes, just a few fluffy clouds giving the clear sky a nice perspective. So everybody has a good time at the gurgling streamlets and waterfalls. And now we really can see nature at work: A lot of flowers that still had been hidden last week are shyly showing their first blossoms. Let's hum with good ol' Satchmo: What a wonderful world...

Sisimiut

The second largest Greenlandic city spreads out on the slopes of a beutiful fjord that hosted settlements long before our modern times. This is what we learn not only on the Historical Hike on the Tele Island, but also in the abandoned village of Assakutaq, a speedy 25-minute boat ride away. Fishing and whale hunting was and still is the fundament of life in these parts. So it is not surprising to find whale meat on the menu of a Thai restaurant at the harbour front. The younger history is scenically set out in the Old Town where the 18th and 19th century buildings gather round the tiny wooden church. Old Greenlandic traditions live up again, so the Qajaq sport is getting more and more popular every year as is shown by Jacob, who is showing all his skills at starboard just before we leave. Now we go North, and late at night the first icebergs are to be seen.

Kangerlussuaq

Among the reasons for building the airbase in Kangerlussuaq was the remarkable stability of the weather, nearly 300 clear days per year. This is one of them. Everybody takes off fleeces and jackets, the sun is really hot. The mosquitoes like it, too. A lot. So everybody puts the jacket back on again, preferring to sweat than to be eaten. A full day is laying before us, quite a bit of activity. The road to the icecap gets more adventurous every year, so the bumpy ride takes a little longer. In the meantime, those who stay in "The Big Fjord" go on a very instructive guided tour through the village or take their time at the Science Center until the busses arrive in the afternoon. Next stop: Lake Ferguson where a hearty BBQ is waiting. When it is time to fly back home, at least nobody is hungry! And then: Airport, gate, plane - like a blur, as Farewells often are. Auf Wiedersehen and Good-Bye.
And far out in the Fjord, MS Fram is heading out for the open sea, and many new guests are marvelling at the beauty of this place....

Itilleq

The clouds hang deep as we approach the scenic Itilleq Fjord, but every minute reaveals more of the beautiful mountainside in the background, and in the end we land under a chilly but blue sky. The Kaffemik is ready and the guests filter one by one or in small groups into the colorful houses on the slope to accept the invitation to coffee and cake with a Greenlandic family. Certainly, the language barrier is no longer existant when a simple smile suffices. One of the most international languages is spoken a little later when everybody joins on the soccer pitch to have the traditional game Itilleq vs. Fram. Cheers are all over, the teams grow as we play, finishing at not less than 39 players! This time our hosts outnumber us in the end and win by - estimated - 8 to 5. Congratulations! In a very cheerful mood everybody returns back to Fram where it is almost time for Captains Dinner.

Ilulissat

It is supposed to be the day of action, with hikes, boat tours and helicopter flights. And now this, the whole port area clogged with icebergs, brash ice, a nearly seamless plug of white. Cancel all? A tough call for Expedition Leader Anja and Captain Arnvid. They go for brave, let's give it a try! So our Polar Cirkel Boat drivers are really put to the test, one way between ship amd shore is a 25 minute bumpy hellride, certainly a lifetime experience! So we could hike, we could fly, we could do it all. Plus, we had that superb crossing. So, thanks to all you drivers, you did a banging job, in the true sense of the word!

Eqip Sermia

Instead of welcoming us, the glacier is looming in the distance, like commanding his frozen army to encounter us in the fjord. There is no way to beat Nature, but of course we can trick it a little. So we set out our Polar Cirkel Boats and cruise as deep into the cold labyrinth as we dare. The sight of the icebergs' roots disappearing in the dark depths can really make you shiver. Getting back to FRAM feels a lot like coming home safely after a while. Especially when you see what's oing on on deck 7: The Barbeques are smoking, huge amounts of beef, chicken and fish are being prepared. The sun decides to take a look, the dinner gets a very friendly illumination, and suddenly the icy fjord looks only half as grim. Later on the sunlight bathes the world in color, cameras are flourished and many of us let out a deep sigh. What a pretty place...

Ummannaq / Ukussisset

What a sudden contrast: The heart-shaped mountain of Uumannaq is shrouded with clouds, snowflakes are dancing. Finally a real Arctic Impression... So the brave hikers that leave for Santa's Cabin put on gloves and shawl before we make for the interior. Glaciers have worked on the mountains as if they were caressing them just long enough to look smooth and gentle. After a while we descend towards Santa Clauses' Hut, a surprisingly simple green sod house down in the bay. Knock, knock - nobody home. Maybe Santa is on vacation (Expedition cruise..?), still we can see his cosy home before we hike back. Those who stayed in Uumannaq have had their sightseeing tour and their traditional Greenlandic food already, so everybody aboard and heave the anchor. In the evening nature shows us who rules in these parts: The bay of Ukussisset is filled with freezing pancake ice, so the tender boats nearly get stuck. Change of plan: We take the few villagers over to Fram where they sing for us, dance for and with us, and teach us about their life. A night to remember!

Qeqertarsuaq

When Anja announces "another beautiful day" in Greenland, you are never 100% sure if the weather is really nice or just not too awful. But no kidding today, no clouds in the sky, mild temperatures and the sun sparkling in the crystal clear Fjord of Qeqertarsuaq. As soon as groups are on shore we start our first hike of the trip: Through the little village, down on the beach where giant icebergs are dancing in the wide bay, across an old lava stream and into the "Valley of the Winds", a steep canyon carved into the loose basaltic rock quite recently. A lot of snow is still sitting on the valley's shoulders, more than in the previous years. That means a lot of melt water coming down, and indeed, the waterfall at the end of the canyon is boasting a thick, milky brown cascade. On the way back a cannon-like sound: One of the bigger icebergs in the bay cracked with the low tide and the remaining piece now starts to capsize. This is minutes of a spectacular phenomenon, those who were on the beach tell the tale on board. The anchor is lifted and off we go, trying the inside passage between Disko Island and the mainland. Let's see how much ice is in there!

Sisimiut

Well, that is some start: If it weren't for the slightly chilly wind you'd be tempted to walk in shorts. The very clear weather seems to emphasize all colors, so the houses of Sisimiut looks like freshly painted. In Assaqutaq we can watch children working on their fishing skills; the waters are so rich they don't even need a bait! Also they learn hunting seals at primary school, makes you think about spoiled Nintendo-Kids at home... Greenlandic tradition is revived in many places. A fine example is Jacob, who shows us a sheer endless series of "Eskimo-rolls" in his handcrafted Qajaq. People coming back from the historic hike are beaming, be it the sun or the exitement, hard to tell. So we sail into the evening towards Disko Island. To the delight of the restaurant crew, a whale shows up during dinner, causing many people to run outside. It was certainly worth it: A humpback whale decided to show off a little, breeching three times in a row to great applause. With the Crews Fashion Show a long, good day comes to an end.

Kangerlussuaq

Well, and that's about it...it is unbelievable how fast time can pass in the end. Early in the morning everybody get's a famous last ride ashore. But: the day is far from over yet. There is a long, bumpy and joyful excursion to the inland ice, the mother of all glaciers and icebergs. This is where it all comes from, fascinating!
The "city" of Kangerlussuaq has got the melancholic charme of a forsaken place, like being strewn into the wide valley of the Søndre Strømfjord. An interesting guided walk brings us to church and museum, but the thoughts a still far in the distance where everybody can catch a last glance on MS Fram mooring in the Fjord. Quite a few vows are made to come back. Then it's BBQ time at the nearby lake, where the last hours till departure are bridged with delicious musk ox burgers and wine and salad. And, finally, after a wonderful trip that seemed long and short at the same time, the red Aircraft leaves the ground. Farewell, Greenland, Farewell, Fram...

Itilleq

Truly, the weather tries to distract everybody from the thought of leaving, under a clear blue sky we navigate towards our last stop. At the foot of snow-capped mountains the colorful houses of Itilleq welcome us. In a double sense of meaning, since the whole village has prepared a kaffeemik, that is coffee and self-made cake in their houses. And then the highlight of the day: The soccer game, Itilleq vs. Fram. In the beginning there are only very few players and quite a lot of rules. In the end we have a lot of players and no more rules; no one bothers about petty offenses like "out" or handplay, also running behind or through the spectators (with the ball, of course) is just fine. Sometimes it doesn't even matter which goal we shoot at. Well, come on, who cares: 33 players on the field, of literally all ages and nationalities, that is a good game, no matter the result. Probably it's a draw, anyway...
In the evening Captain's Dinner while we enter the Sondre Strømfjord towards our destination. The crew cheers everybody up with song and laughter. Time to pack.
Last, but not least: The glorious winners of the "Picture of the Cruise" contest are: Ian and Jane Lawson and Harald Thee. Thank you for participatiing, all of you!

Ilulissat

There is only one drawback to the day in Ilulissat: It is simply not possible to do everything that is offered, although everything is sooooo tempting: A helicopter ride to the icecap is certainly a one-in-a-lifetime thing, but if you talk to the people that came back from the morning hike to the wide Fjord which is clogged with giant icebergs, it was probably jsut as nice. And then put on a warm sweater, jump on board of the stout excursion boat and find out what it means to be really in the drift ice. Innumerable variations of blue and white, in all shapes there are. In the good ol' times of Kodak, everybody would have spent a fortune on film rolls!
And then there is still a little time left to take a stroll through Greenlands second largest city, although the number of sledge dogs seems to be rivalling the population. Mood is high in the evening, just in time for the famous crew show where our talented crew members perform songs, Balinesian and Phlippine dances, juggling shows and a lot more. Although the trip is near an end, everybody goes to bed with a smile.

Eqip Sermia

For the first time this year a ship tries to go into this Fjord. Since it ends at the front of two giant glaciers that are rising high towards the icecap, you never know what is expecting you. And indeed, a thick band of drift ice blocks our way, MS FRAM has to stop. Of course, this doesn't keep us from going outside, especially not after being baptized by Neptune himself! So we bring our Polar Cirkel Boats out and off we go, through a dense blue-and-white labyrinth, pushing ice floes aside and marvelling at the bizarre shapes in the crystal-clear water. Everybody is in an outdoor mood when we come back, so the timing is just fine for a BBQ on the upper deck while we are gently cruising through the snow-covered Fjord. Brian and Leo, our food and ice artists, have picked a big block of glacier ice from the sea and show us in the evening what skillful hands can do with natures material. A day in the company of a glacier comes to an end.