South Georgia- day 2

What a fantastic second day we had on South Georgia! Weather-wise, the snow and rain that we had yesterday passed by and we were treated to changeable but fair conditions all day. Seas were generally calm close to shore, which allowed for two fabulous landings.

In the morning we visited Moltke Harbour. The harbour was named after the German expedition ship which charted the area as part of the International Polar Year in 1882-83 (http://www.ipy.org). There we found a large elephant seal rookery with perhaps 2-3 beach-master males, lots of females and lots of pups. During the landing, strong winds from the glacier came up and down like a yo-yo, and with the winds came blowing snow and white-out conditions. Also on land we saw a herd of about 30 reindeer, King and Gentoo Penguins, and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses circling the snow-clad, tussock hills behind us.

After returning to the vessel for lunch we repositioned to King Edward Cove and landied at the famous Grytviken Whaling Station. This landing provided something for everyone including history (for example, Sir Ernest Shacklton's grave), nature (seals, and various bird species including the endemic South Georgia Pintail), incredible scenary, photo opportunities galour, and even some shopping in the museum store.

We experienced virtually calm conditions during the landing which contributed to the peaceful feeling we got from this historic and rich location.

Now we have two more sea days before we reach Antarctica!

Getting to know the king

The king in question is King George III of England and today we have arrived at one of the most spectacular islands in the world, named for King George by Captain Cook, and called South Georgia.

Every landing you make on South Georgia is a huge accomplishment because of often severe weather and water conditions, so we can pat ourselves on the back that we made two landings today! In the morning we visited the area around the Strømness whaling station, and there saw reindeer, elephant and fur seals, Gentoo and King Penguins, and several other bird species. It snowed ALL MORNING but this did not deter us. All returned to the ship with smiles on their wet faces.

After a short reposition to Fortuna Bay we made a wonderful landing at the King Penguin rookery there. We saw a few dead King Penguin chicks (which is normal), and one was being scavenged by an adult Gaint Petrel. By then the morning snow had turned to afternoon rain and the long walk to the colony provided great views of elephant and fur seals (and in the case of the latter, strong smells of onion and garlic given off by the males). The Norwegian weather forecast (www.yr.no) we had for today was spot on and predicted the winds to pick up, which happened just as we were about to leave the landing site.

South Georgia, here we come!!

Today we had another pleasant day at sea, with lectures about the island's fauna and areas of interest, as well as the personalities that have in some way marked the story of South Georgia. We also learned about how to make good wildlife photographs.

We are slowly getting ready for our first landing in South Georgia, and in order to avoid the introduction of alien species to this island and to Antarctica, passengers queued up to have their bags and clothes vacuum-cleaned.

Excitement is in the air as Karin, our expedition leader, surprised everybody by announcing the possibility to follow a portion of Shackleton's amazing trek across South Georgia. We plan to walk from Fortuna Bay to Strømness Harbour, a 5.5 km distance that should take us about 4 hours.

As every other day at sea, we were accompanied by many seabirds, include the spectacular Light-mantled Sooty Albatross.

At sea, again!

As mentioned yesterday, some of the passengers visited the Long Island Farm, a 22,000-acre sheep farm belonging to a 6th generation Falkland Island family, the Watson's. The farm is situated about 20 miles from Stanley. The drive there took our passengers though the unique stone runs and the beautiful scenery of the Falkland Islands. The farm is run in the traditional Falkland style- they still cut out peat and burn it in a traditional peat stove. People were shown how specially trained dogs help gather sheep, how sheep are sheared and they were finally invited to have tea and home-made biscuits. During the conflict in the early 1980s, the farm was visited regularly by Argentinian soldiers and their general, who were convinced the Watson's were harbouring some British Marines (they weren't!).

Today we had our very important IAATO briefing on board. Passengers were shown how to land in South Georgia and Antarctica and they were given all the important information regarding security and guidelines to protect the pristine places we are about to discover. IAATO stands for International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (www.iaato.org).

Some hourglass dolphins accompanied our ship for a little while and there were a lucky few that could admire them and make some photographs. We also saw several species of seabirds today including albratrosses, storm-petrels, and prions.

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

This morning we sailed into the harbour of Port Stanley (pop. 3000), capital of the Falkland Islands. Port Stanley was established in 1845, when, as instructed by Lord Stanley, the British Secretary of State, the capital of the islands was moved from Port Louis to a place where a good deep-water harbour, easily accessible to the Royal Navy fleet, could be built. The population increased rapidly afterwards due to the fact that most ships that had been damaged rounding the fierce Cape Horn were repaired here.

Many of our passengers had the great opportunity to discover the surrounding landscape and nature in a 3 hour walk on a path though the dwarf shrub heath leading to Gypsy Cove. We saw a number of birds including the endemic Falkland Flightless Steamer Duck (female pictured with a duckling), Kelp Goose, Upland Goose, Patagonian Crested Duck, White-rumped Sandpiper, Magellanic Oystercatcher, Red-backed Hawk, and others. Others went on a fabulous tour of a Falklands farm near Long Island.


Here we show the national flower of the Falkland Islands- the Pale Maden.

Tonight we sail for South Georgia.

New Island and West Point Island, Falklands

After three glorious days at sea we have arrived in the West Falklands. Overnight, seas were rough but as we approached land, the sea calmed down and our landings were easy.

In the morning we visited New Island, which run as a reserve under the New Island Conservation Trust (www.newislandtrust.com), and is being rehabilitated back to its former glory. Sheep have been removed from the island, which allows the tussock grass to grow back. Tussock is an important habitat for several species of birds. We walked across a narrow point of the island and along the way we saw several landbirds including the Long-tailed Meadowlark, before arriving at the Settlement Rookery where Black-browed Albatross, Rockhopper Penguin, and Imperial Shags breed. Through the morning, Turkey Vultures and Striated Caracaras (called Johnny Rooks in the Falklands) flew above the colony.

After a short cruise to West Point Island we landed at the jetty there and were greeted by the island residents and owners, the Napiers. A long walk to the "Devil's Nose" brought to another seabird colony with Black-browed Albatross and Rockhopper Penguins sitting on their eggs. At this colony we walked through head-height tussock grass which shields the birds from us and allows us to approach closely.

Falkland Islands- almost there!

The seas picked up today as a low pressure system moved in from the west, but the Fram remained quite stable under the circumstances (the few passengers who remained in their cabins all day may disagree!). We even saw almost all four seasons today, with sunshine, rain, and hail. Despite this, many of us took advantage of the sunny conditions and were out on deck with their cameras.

However, our company for the whole day- the seabirds- really enjoyed the winds as they used them to stay in the air, move with the ship, soar, and find food, and apparently have lots of fun doing so. Today we recorded many species but the highlight was seeing so many Wandering Albatrosses. Other common species were Giant Petrels, Cape Petrels, and Black-browed Albatrosses. Some passengers also saw some dolphins or porpoises. A relative rarity on our day's list of birds was a probable Royal Albatross.

Tomorrow morning we will step on terra firma for the first time in three days as we make our morning landing at New Island in West Falkland.

At sea (for another day!)

Today we woke up to beautiful bright sun and favourable seas. Many seabirds of several species were with us from morning to night. This was a consequence of our passage over the continental shelf of southeastern South America, which produces upwellings, highly rich waters, and the potential for abundant food for the seabirds.

This was a very special day as well as we saw our first Wandering Albatrosses of the trip, a species which has one of the longest wingspans of any bird at about 3.5 metres. Like most albtrosses, this species is endangered because of high mortality on long-lines set to catch Patagonian Toothfish.

At the end of the day, yet another red sunset was made particularly special by a beautiful rainbow that appeared over the ship.

We are presently at the latitude of 44 degrees South and still have 430 nautical miles to do before we reach the Falklands/Malvinas islands on Friday morning. We can't wait!

South!

This morning found us at the mouth of the mighty Rio de la Plata, which drains about one fifth of the area of South America and is the widest river in the world. In the early morning we were greeted with a spectacular sunrise, which we hope does not bode bad weather ("Red sky in the morning, sailor's warning, red sky at night, sailors delight!").

Today was what we call a "sea day" as we sail south to the Falkland Islands, out of the sight of land. We can't help but remember the famous line from Coleridge's Rime of the Ancient Mariner "Water water everywhere and nor any drop to drink"!

We had a fantastic seabird watching day with species such as Black-browed, Grey-headed and Yellow-nosed Albatross, White-chinned Petrel, Giant Petrel, South American Tern, skua, and storm-petrels circling and following the vessel. Even though we were sailing far offshore of South America we even observed some Magellanic Penguins, which was a real thrill for many of us as it was our first penguins of the season, and for some, the first of their lifetimes!

This wonderful and memorable first day at sea in the South Atlantic Ocean ended as it began with the sun projecting reds and oranges onto the clouds above us.

The Fram sets sail!

We have spent the last two days in this amazing Argentine city of Buenos Aires (population of metro area almost 14 million people!), but it has rained, with thunder and lightening, for the entire time we have been here. Today however, just as we were about to set sail on our first southern hemisphere expedition of the season, the sun came out!

We were sad to leave but eager to start our voyage to the Falkland Islands/Malvinas, then on to South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula before returning to the South American mainland and the city of Ushuaia.

As we left the port of Buenos Aires, we passed the famous natural area known as Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur. It is remarkable that such a wild place is within one of the biggest cities in the world. The skyline of Buenos Aires is almost the last land we will now see for three days as we steam south. We wish ourselves smooth sailing!

And as if to say goodbye to the ship and its passengers, a Brown-hooded Gull flew towards us showing its beautiful patterning on the head and wings. This was not the first bird we have seen so far on our adventure and it will certainly not be our last! Stay tuned!

Buenos Aires

An excited crew were watching Fram dock in Buenos Aires around noon. As soon as the ship was cleared we ran across the gangway to feel land under our feet. And also to spend the money that has been burning in our pocket for a long while now.

To open the gangway we had both electricians Ivar and Ørjan present, and from the reception Marivic, Marilyn, Line and Chief Purser Jesper. This to make sure everything was in order since the gangway has not been in use for 21 days.

Tonight the crew is going out for dinner in the city, to have a delicious Argentinian steak

Position now at 20:00 Passenger Terminal, Basin 3 and we will stay here until 2nd November 17:00.

Land! We can see land!

This morning we woke up to longed for sight, Land. Even though we seafarers love the ocean, its was nice to finally see land again after 20 days at sea. Having a bunkering boat coming up to us outside Montevideo, we also got to see a few new faces. Now we have been just a crew of 54 so for sure we are all looking forward

to welcome passengers and new crew embarking in Buenos Aires.

Maybe the crew will be glad to get away from the photographer sticking the camera in their nose when they are trying to work. Like here when nurse Cecilia is organizing the hospital. She keeps everything in order and must definitely be the most organized person on the ship.

Ass. Pastryman Michael and Chief Baker Vidal have the never-ending job baking for us. Looks like they are having fun while doing this. And we are happy to eat their yummy treats.

Position tonight at 23:00 S35'01'' W56' 04'' as the pilot is arriving to take us to Buenos Aires.

Birthdays & Bingo

Today the Able Bodys have been preparing the ship for arrival Buenos Aires on Saturday. The entire ship has been washed. On the picture you see William washing deck 7, at least you can see his nose and mouth as he is covering up to avoid the sun.




We have been celebrating Jimmy, Jael, Mulituba and Heminigildo's birthdays. Housekeeping and reception made some nice decorations in the bar on deck 7 to set the mood. And the cooks made pizza and cakes.

The welfare also arranged Bingo. So we can say they had a worthy celebration. Ramon was a excellent bingo host and the lucky winners were Rande and Mario as always.


Position tonight at 23:20 S34'51'' W54'03''

Olympic Games Final

Today was another grey day and it is starting to get colder outside. Ship Doctor Eduardo decided to spend his break inside in the gym. The cooks have been serving us lot of delicious meals, having barbeque outside every other day. So the rest of the crew should probable follow the doctors good example.

Housekeeper Marissa and Chief Purser Jesper rather wanted to watch a movie. Those of you who been on the Drake Passage in bad weather might recognize their popcorn bag. (travel sickness bag)

Motorman Paul and First Engineer Jonny had to change the safety valve for the exhaust boiler. Jonny thought this was a big event that deserved to be on the blog, therefore he called the photographer to climb down into the chimney.

Last night was the big final of Fram Olympic Games 2009. The competion was to make the longest line out of the clothes and whatever else the participants were wearing. Team "Leftovers" sacrificed everything to win this game. So we decided to spare our readers for this picture. Tonight all the winners from the competitions we have had onbord this cruise got their well deserved prizes.

Position tonight at 23:15 S32'28'' W50'55''