Leaping Minke Whales

Petermann Island is a brilliant landing site. On a day like today when you have blue sky and seemingly unlimited visibility it is hard to beat. The scenery is inspiring. Impressive mountains loom over the landing site. Glaciers flow down to the sea. The white snow was covered in huge swaths of bright green and pink. The greens and pinks are from an algae that grows on snow. There is a diminishing Adelie colony and a growing Gentoo colony. There is a colony of Blue-eyed Shags. A short walk brings you to a stunning view over Panola Strait and Iceberg Alley.
It was downright balmy throughout much of the day. We started at +7ºC and it got warmer from there.
In the afternoon we paid a visit to the fine fellows at the Ukranian base Vernadsky. Sasha (one of the scientists at the base) told us that there were high winds all day yesterday and today until about an hour before our arrival. Wind? What wind? Luck has obviously been on our side.
Before entering the base we removed our boots. The tour of the base was quite interesting. A steady flow of people visited the gift shop and an equally steady flow of people sampled the vodka at the bar.
At 18:00 we entered the Lemaire Channel where we encountered a crazy number of Minke whales. We saw at least 20 of them! It was unbelievable as a entire pod of Minkes raced alongside the ship. They often porpoising out of the water. One of the more acrobatic whales leapt out of the water while turning simultaneously upside down. To see so many minke whales in one place and then have a group of approximately eight whales race and seem to play with the ship is a very rare occurrence.
Another incredible indelible memory.

The Blog Now Has Video!!!

We are very pleased to report that from time to time we will be posting short, simple videos. These will not be James Cameron 3D Avatar-like movies! We hope you enjoy this new added feature of our blog. Today we thought you might like to see a little of the busy Adelie penguin colony we visited.

We continue to enjoy excellent weather as we now make our way north again. We had a large distance to cover before we achieved our landing in the Fish Islands. That meant there was plenty of time to relax and enjoy the scenery and to attend lectures in the morning.

By 13:00 we had dropped the anchor and were ready to begin Polar Cirkle boat operations.
A short ride through lots of brash ice brought us to a boisterous Adelie penguin colony. It was nice to see a lot very fat chicks. In some cases the chicks were bigger than the parents.
Everywhere you looked there was activity; comical feeding chases where chicks ran after their parents, adults feeding their chicks, raucous ecstatic displays and marauding Skuas constantly circling the colony (their main target seemed to be spilled krill).
From shore we had excellent views of three Minke whales. They first surfaced near a glacier and then headed towards our landing site. We could also see Crabeater seals on nearby icefloes and on one very large iceberg there was a Weddell Seal right at the very top. It must have been an alpine Weddell Seal!!
After one hour on shore we were treated to a thirty minute Polar Cirkle boat ride. Cruising through the ice was great! We saw yet more seals including a very large Leopard Seal.
Around 17:30 the sun burst through the clouds again. 360º around the ship there were snow and ice-covered mountains and glaciers. Another really amazing day.

Southernmost Point

If you are going to brag about swimming in Antarctica you might as well also brag that you went swimming south of the Antarctic Circle. After all, the temperature is pretty much the same at the north end of our itinerary as the south.
Yes indeed. Hardy souls. We had over thirty people go for a dip at Stonnington Island which is our southernmost point.
Stonnington is the site of two former bases. British Base Y, which was abandoned in 1975 and American West Base which was abandoned in 1948. The buildings are intact with a lot of interesting artifacts. There is a lot of rubble lying about particularly at the garbage dump for the American base. Large machinery, old batteries, animal bones, odds and ends.

In the afternoon we landed at Horseshoe Island which was the site of British Base W (abandoned in 1957). The Base W hut contrasts sharply with the hut we saw yesterday. Here the floors are swept clean, the dishes are stacked and put neatly away. Everything is orderly.
There were lots of bright green veins of malachite (a copper carbonate) all around the rocky landscape. It looked like someone went crazy with florescent green paint.
In the evening we enjoyed a fashion show. Many departments from the ship were involved including the Captain, Hotel Manager, the Chef and the entire Expedition Team.

The Antarctic Circle

To cross the Antarctic Circle is a very special thing. The number of people that have managed it are measured only in the thousands. Most companies that engage in regular Antarctic tourism offer only one or two trips per year south of the Circle (if they offer it at all). There isn't a large window of opportunity. There are only about six to eight weeks out of every Antarctic summer that ships can reliably make the trip. Any earlier and there is often too much ice. Any later and the weather begins to turn.
In recognition of that milestone we invited King Neptune on board Fram to baptize all of those that crossed the Antarctric Circle for the first time.It never ceases to amaze me how eagerly everyone lines up to have ice cold water poured down their neck. Several people were so wrapped up in the spirit of adventure and Aquavit that they were baptized multiple times. The people that come on this trip are for the most part hardy, adventurous, fun-loving souls.
Shortly after 14:00 we landed on Detaille Island, the site of the former British Station W. This base was only opened for three years (1956-59). Remember what I said about 6 to 8 weeks per year when ships can reliably schedule visits to this part of the world? Station W shut down when sea ice and weather made relief by ship impossible. It really has the eerie feeling that everyone left in a hurry. The dishes from their last meal were not done. Long johns hang to dry over the stove.In the early evening around 20:00 we approached the entrance to a very narrow channel called the Gullet. Stunning glaciers form a wall of ice on both sides of the channel. There were hundreds of icebergs and many ghostly white Snow Petrels soaring about. Crabeater seals lazed about on ice floes. It was a very dramatic way to end our first day south of the Circle

Gentoos Eat Their Young!

Our first landing was at Cuverville Island the site of one of the largest Gentoo Colonies in Antarctica. Here at last was photographic proof that Gentoo penguins eat their young!
Just kidding.
As we walked about the island we could see many adults feeding their chicks. Sometimes the chick's head would literally disappear down the throat of its parent.
Everywhere you looked there were fat chicks. Many were lying on their plump bellies sound asleep. Other chicks were obviously suffering in the warm sun.

There was even a surprise visitor on Cuverville. A lone King penguin! This was a special treat and quite unexpected. For many of us this would be the only King penguin we will ever see. This was a youngster just getting ready to moult. It is not unusual for young birds to show up far from their colony in seemingly strange places.A lot of warm sunshine can promote calving glaciers and avalanches. Across the Channel on the Arctowski Peninsula a huge rumble alerted us to a massive avalanche pictured in the above photograph.
On the west side of the island there was a large group of approx. fifty Skuas. There seemed no end to their boldness as some of them pecked at camera bags and one even tried to fly away with a life jacket.
In the afternoon we enjoyed more stunning scenery on our way to Almirante Brown - an unoccupied Argentine base in Paradise Bay. This landing was cause for celebration as we would be taking our first steps on the actual Antarctic continent. Most of us climbed up the 90 metre hill behind the base to enjoy stunning views of Paradise Bay. Far below and in the distance we could see Humpback and Minke whales. Many of us slid on our posteriors down the hill. What fun!
From morning until night there was an endless parade of whales. There seemed hardly a moment when we could not see a Humpback or a Minke.

Hooray And Up She Rises!

Whoa! And the seas and the winds continued to rise through the night. Ten to twelve metre waves! Forty to Forty five knot winds. Man the helm matey! On the bridge there was a herculean struggle as a team of sailors manned the helm. It was man against King Neptune himself as the valiant sailors fought to keep Fram on course.
Ahem. Cough. Well. Not exactly. The helm on Fram is the three inch (8cm) black joystick on the upper right of the photograph. It takes only one or two fingers to steer this 11,647 ton vessel. You can literaly steer the ship with your pinky.
Yes, we certainly did have twelve metre waves and forty+ knot winds but our course is plotted into a computer. It is definitely not as simple as just turning on a computer and pushing a go button. Far from it, but a few taps on that little joystick is enough to alter course around most obstacles. The navigation officers and sailors are ever vigilant watching for ice and other hazards. In addition, we have state of the art radar. An excellent GPS system and redundant navigation systems. We have excellent stabilizers that smooth out the bumpy ride.
Still not everyone was comfortable. Lectures and IAATO briefings were postponed until later in the day.
Around 15:00 there was a big change in the weather. The seas began to lie down. By 18:00 it was pretty smooth sailing once again. The sun burst through the clouds lighting up our first icebergs in brilliant sunshine. Our day ended with an extraordinary sunset bathing Smith Island in a beautiful pink glow.

The Wind Goes Round and Round

Think about it: the Southern Ocean is the only place on earth where the wind can whip around 360º of the planet totally unimpeded. Well perhaps not totally unhindered. Our gallant ship Fram is out here bouncing merrily along heading south. Surely the wind notices. And as the wind cyclones around and around, it pushes water, building waves and lifting albatrosses.
The wind blew harder and the waves grew higher steadily through the morning.
I think one could come up with a formula using the number of empty seats in the dining room to accurately determine sea states and Beaufort scale. Today was between force 7 and 8 for much of the day. A comfy ride for those used to it. A long time riding the bunk for those who haven't yet found their sea legs.
While some of us may not be completely comfortable out here on the Drake, the many soaring albatrosses that attended the ship were in their element.
At 10:00 we joined the expedition team on the stern deck 7 to admire true masters of the southern wind, Wandering and Royal Albatrosses. We also saw many other seabirds including Slender-billed Prions, Wilson's Storm Petrels, White-chinned Petrels and Giant Petrels.
There were lectures throughout the day. In the evening many of us enjoyed an epsiode of the fabulous Blue Planet nature documentary series.
We are all excited contemplating the possibility of our first landing tomorrow at Half Moon Island!

Ushuaia Days

It is always a busy time on Fram when we are in port. New supplies come in. We take on fuel. Garbage and recyclables go off. New crew arrive. Some crew leave. In the morning we say good-bye to our new friends and luggage goes off. In the afternoon we welcome friends that are soon to be and new luggage comes on.
Once on board one can see that the crew is very efficient. Soon our photos are taken and we are issued photo I.D. cards and a room key. We are then escorted to our cabins where our luggage is already waiting for us. Magic. Before long it is dinner time. The dining room is full of excited chatter as the ship prepares to leave port.
Looking out the large picture windows in the dining room there is a momentary illusion that it is the dock slipping away from us and not us moving from the dock. Fram casts off with barely a vibration and our journey begins!
At 20:30 we mustered outside on deck five for a mandatory safety drill. At 21:00 we rendezvoused in the beautiful Observation Lounge on deck seven for the Captain's welcome. We were introduced to some of the key personnel on the ship including the Expedition Leader and her team.
What a very long and tiring journey we had all experienced to get to the true beginning of our adventure in Antarctica. Antarctic Circle, here we come!

We call ourselves “Cape-Horniers” now

Cape Horn. The seaman’s nemesis. Sometimes it took sailing vessels literally months to round the Horn. This little piece of ocean was feared and respected by sailors. The calm seas we have enjoyed on the Drake have allowed us the luxury of cruising by Cape Horn from the Atlantic into the Pacific. The Captain blew the ship’s horn when we crossed from one ocean into the other. Cape Horn is a special place and we consider ourselves lucky to have had such excellent views of the historic nautical landmark.


We are fortunate on Fram to have a terrific atmosphere in which to work live and play. The atmosphere on any vessel starts at the top with the Captain and then trickles on down through every department. Today we would like to say a special thank you to the sailors and bossun on board. We see them almost every day. We get to know them well as they are also the Polar Cirkle boat drivers. There are other unsung heroes here such as the laundry men. We never see them but they are hard at work day after day in rough seas or calm. Thank you for doing such a terrific job!

Oh, and incidentally, it´s time for our photographer, Manuel, to say good-bye to the blog. As you can see, he was taken over by the stunning beauties of Antarctica!

Va-room-va-room the engine room

Uneventful. That’s the way we like it. Storm free. Gently rolling seas. Fram rolls steadfastly northward. The weather is fair and the Drake induces a gentle roll to Fram, just enough to lull one to sleep. The lecture halls are busy throughout the day and they are full. The atmosphere on board is one of quiet contentment. Everyone is reveling in their memories of ice, mountains, penguins, whales, seals, wind, seabirds, snow, more ice, solitude, crisp fresh air, Polar Cirkle boats, the Antarctic Circle and, day after day of the most spectacular scenery on earth. All cherished memories, all fresh, vivid. Today is a chance to reflect on all of the wonderful things that we have seen and done in the past 11 days.

We relax on Fram forgetting about the massive amounts of high tech machinery we rely on and the people that maintain it. Huge engines provide the energy that keeps us moving, there is heating and ventilation systems, electrical systems and water systems. We don’t think about the team of engineers and sailors that keep the whole thing running. For the most part they are invisible and that means they are doing their job perfectly. It is their dedication to their job and knowledge of their craft that keeps Fram purring along, rolling steadfastly northward towards Cape Horn.

Shopping and Fluking

What’s an adventure expedition without a pre-breakfast landing? An opportunity to sleep in is what! Forget about it. That’s what our time at home is for. We want to maximize our opportunities to see Antarctica because for most of us our next time here will be exactly never.
A quick injection of caffeine at our bistro and we were ready to board the Polar Cirkle boats at 5:30. A short, brisk ride brought us to the single most visited site in all of Antarctica, Port Lockroy. Port Lockroy is the site of a former British Base and has been restored as a small but excellent museum. The income from the well-stocked gift shop goes to the British Antarctic Heritage Trust and amongst other things helps to maintain the museum. The Gentoo penguins here are more habituated to human visitation. They seemed completely oblivious to the 5 metre rule!

The rest of our day was taken up with scenic cruising with the highlight being Wilhelmina Bay. Whalers were well aware that Wilhelmina Bay was a prime spot for Humpback whales and that remains true today. We spotted many whales and were able to approach a group of three Humpbacks that were resting at the surface. The navigation officers approached the whales slowly and skillfully. Undisturbed, they continued in their resting mode: gently breathing and submerging barely beneath the surface. From time to time the three of them would dive under the ship and appear on the other side. At times we could clearly see the entire animal under the crystalline waters of Wilhelmina Bay.

Now we begin our return journey to Ushuaia but our trip is far from over. One never knows what wonders Drake Passage will reveal.

This is Antarctica After All

The weather continues to co-operate. This morning a gentle breeze and mild temperatures in the neighbourhood of 5ºC were the order for the day. We seemed to have lost our blue skies for the moment but there isn’t a single person on board that would complain. In fact it was a pleasant change to see a few snowflakes falling throughout the afternoon. This is Antarctica after all!

This morning we visited the Ukrainian Base, Vernadsky. There are twelve men who over-winter at Vernadsky every year. As usual, the base was immaculate. We were instructed to leave our boots and outdoor clothing in the cloak room. In short order we were introduced to Sasha and Eugene, the two gentlemen that would escort us on a tour of the base.

We learned about the ongoing meteorological work and that the discovery of the ozone hole was made at that very location. On completion of the tour we had the opportunity to sample the base’s home brew vodka and to visit their modest gift shop. Perhaps the best souvenir of our visit was simply the Vernadsky Base stamp we all received in our passports.
In the afternoon we dropped anchor in front of Petermann Island. We began landing operations at 15:00. Petermann has a lot to often with interesting history, Adelie and Gentoo Penguins, a small colony of Antarctic Shags and an incredible scenic view of Iceberg Alley where we could see not only a lot of icebergs but also a Crabeater seal and a Leopard seal.
In many places bright pink and green snow algae added intense swaths of colour to a largely monochromatic landscape. But, being mid-summer the snow has melted on much of Petermann revealing to the careful observer tiny clumps of grass. Not enough to golf on of course, this is Antarctica after all!

Feathers, Ice, and Fur

Another perfect day in Antarctica. We begin to wonder why we seem to deserve this preferential treatment by the gods of the elements. In the morning we went to the Fish Islands in glorious weather and landed on a small island which was densely populated by Adelie Penguins. The rookery greeted us with its normal pungent stench, but that was forgotten soon when we saw the interesting behavior of these birds up close. Some were already moulting, most of the chicks had already reached the size of their parents, and some seemed to be preparing for their departure from the rookery already. Beside the close encounter with the penguins there was the awe inspiring scenery to enjoy.

The afternoon brought us to a very special place in the Biscoe Islands where we set out on a cruise in our Polar Cirkle Boats. We cruised between the icebergs and were dumbfounded by their sheer magnitude. As a very special extra we struck it lucky when we came across various seals. There were both Crabeater and Weddell Seals which were resting on some ice floes. They were not overly active since they usually come to shore to rest and sleep, but that gave us a wonderful opportunity to observe these magnificent animals. Indeed, it was another perfect day in Antarctica.