Happy Valentine's Day!!

Once the Panama Canal opened in 1914 there wasn't much of a need for sailing vessels to "round the Horn". Still, rounding the Horn is a major nautical achievement and a piece of mariner's history. It is a "must see" piece of real estate if the chance presents itself. Given our fair weather we were able to alter our course and head directly for Cape Horn. Not only did we have excellent views of the famous rock but we cruised from the Atlantic Ocean into the Pacific Ocean and then back into the Atlantic again. We truly rounded the Horn.
Our day was filled with lectures and the routines of preparing to disembark Fram: packing, retrieving our passports and reviewing our ongoing travel arrangements.
Our photographer Camille Seaman showed a delightful photographic recap of our adventures in Antarctica.
We have been moved by the Icey Continent. At times our contact with nature has been nearly overwhelming. None of us will forget our adventures. We have made new friends. We will be sad to leave Fram. But if we are sad upon departing Fram and Antarctica, doesn't that mean we had a perfect holiday?

We Paid The Price

We paid the price on the way down. We had a storm. It was rough. Lots of people were ill. But you know what? It made the next ten days all the sweeter. I bet that there isn't one person on board that would say it wasn't worth it.
We had a nearly perfect trip. Read back through the blog. We do our best to describe our adventures but words fail us. I think words would fail even the best of writers. Photographs cannot capture the reality. Words can't describe the experience. Besides, what I feel does not describe what the person standing next to me is feeling.

These Drake days are a chance to reflect on all we have seen and done. A chance to catch our breath after a whirl wind of unceasing exciting activity. Today our time was taken up with lots of interesting lectures, bridge tours and relaxation.

All day long the Drake has been dead calm with a gently rolling swell. It is very soothing. The motion lulls one to sleep. We deserve these calm seas after our bumpy ride down.

Tonight we enjoyed a sumptuous Captain's dinner. The Captain gave a very nice speech before dinner and thanked all of the departments on board for doing such an excellent job.

At 22:00 there was a spirited auction to raise money for various environmental charities. The prized item for auction is always the ship's chart showing our entire trip. In fact it was the very chart pictured here. The red arrows and labels were added in Photoshop.

Got'cha Penguin!!

Ok, we were bragging yesterday, so we will be very low key about the events of today: It was even better!! In the morning we were all getting ready for a hideously early landing at Brown Bluff. The weather was beautiful and there was hardly any wind. Perfect landing conditions, but, alas, the ice was blocking the landing site. Oh my, we could have stayed in bed, everybody thought; but not so, because instead of landing we went for a cruise with Fram along the ice in search of wildlife. And, lo and behold, after a while we came across what we all had secretly been hoping for when we came to this northern part of the Antarctic Peninsula. There on an ice flow an Emperor Penguin was basking in the sun. This unique inhabitant of Antarctica seemed to enjoy all the attention he was getting, because he patiently remained in place until everybody had their picture of him. Only then did he take to the water. For us it was time to leave the Antarctic Sound for the South Shetland Islands and as we were getting into open water we struck it lucky yet again. A sizable pod of Orcas were travelling alongside us at high speed for a short while. They were actually the only species we had not seen on this voyage. After this nothing, we thought, could really excite us any more.

We were taught differently in the evening when we went for the last landing of this cruise at Halfmoon Island. It was already rather late when we got here, so the light was getting dim, but again the wildlife presented new firsts for us. We had seen penguins and seals all right, but so far no Chinstraps and no Fur Seals (not up close at any rate). Here they were on the beach in abundance, and we saw them in perfect weather conditions with wonderful evening light in front of the breathtaking panorama of the islands. Again we cannot but be grateful for another unforgettable day.

Words do not describe it!

We really shouldn't brag, but we did have another perfect day in Antarctica. After a relatively quiet night on the Bransfield Strait we woke up very early in front of Deception Island. It was a gloomy morning and it was snowing lightly, but the scene was perfect for the passage into the famous caldera. Dark loomed the active volcano as we were cruising its forbidding waters. Later in the day we continued back to the Antarctic continent and - what do you know - as we were getting into the Antarctic Sound the weather was clearing up again and perfect sunshine greeted us. We viewed the famous tabular icebergs in front of a breathtaking panorama under perfect conditions. We even had fresh waffles to complete the unforgettable moment.

Later on we encountered sea-ice from last winter (which is extremely rare at this time of the year) and there was a lot of wildlife on the ice and in the water. As the light was getting mellow and charming in the evening we put the Polar Cirkle boats into the water and went for a small cruise. It was simply indescribable. There were Leopard, Weddell and Crabeater seals on the ice flows as well as Adelie and Gentoo Penguins (no Emperors though); and to make the whole experience even more unbelievable some Humpback Whales decided to stop by and say hello. Some of us even had the privilege to get to see these majestic animals up close. Well, what a day; we all hope you out there are sufficiently jealous now. We cannot wait to see what tomorrow has in store for us on this amazing voyage.

Leaping Minke Whales

Petermann Island is a brilliant landing site. On a day like today when you have blue sky and seemingly unlimited visibility it is hard to beat. The scenery is inspiring. Impressive mountains loom over the landing site. Glaciers flow down to the sea. The white snow was covered in huge swaths of bright green and pink. The greens and pinks are from an algae that grows on snow. There is a diminishing Adelie colony and a growing Gentoo colony. There is a colony of Blue-eyed Shags. A short walk brings you to a stunning view over Panola Strait and Iceberg Alley.
It was downright balmy throughout much of the day. We started at +7ºC and it got warmer from there.
In the afternoon we paid a visit to the fine fellows at the Ukranian base Vernadsky. Sasha (one of the scientists at the base) told us that there were high winds all day yesterday and today until about an hour before our arrival. Wind? What wind? Luck has obviously been on our side.
Before entering the base we removed our boots. The tour of the base was quite interesting. A steady flow of people visited the gift shop and an equally steady flow of people sampled the vodka at the bar.
At 18:00 we entered the Lemaire Channel where we encountered a crazy number of Minke whales. We saw at least 20 of them! It was unbelievable as a entire pod of Minkes raced alongside the ship. They often porpoising out of the water. One of the more acrobatic whales leapt out of the water while turning simultaneously upside down. To see so many minke whales in one place and then have a group of approximately eight whales race and seem to play with the ship is a very rare occurrence.
Another incredible indelible memory.

The Blog Now Has Video!!!

We are very pleased to report that from time to time we will be posting short, simple videos. These will not be James Cameron 3D Avatar-like movies! We hope you enjoy this new added feature of our blog. Today we thought you might like to see a little of the busy Adelie penguin colony we visited.

We continue to enjoy excellent weather as we now make our way north again. We had a large distance to cover before we achieved our landing in the Fish Islands. That meant there was plenty of time to relax and enjoy the scenery and to attend lectures in the morning.

By 13:00 we had dropped the anchor and were ready to begin Polar Cirkle boat operations.
A short ride through lots of brash ice brought us to a boisterous Adelie penguin colony. It was nice to see a lot very fat chicks. In some cases the chicks were bigger than the parents.
Everywhere you looked there was activity; comical feeding chases where chicks ran after their parents, adults feeding their chicks, raucous ecstatic displays and marauding Skuas constantly circling the colony (their main target seemed to be spilled krill).
From shore we had excellent views of three Minke whales. They first surfaced near a glacier and then headed towards our landing site. We could also see Crabeater seals on nearby icefloes and on one very large iceberg there was a Weddell Seal right at the very top. It must have been an alpine Weddell Seal!!
After one hour on shore we were treated to a thirty minute Polar Cirkle boat ride. Cruising through the ice was great! We saw yet more seals including a very large Leopard Seal.
Around 17:30 the sun burst through the clouds again. 360º around the ship there were snow and ice-covered mountains and glaciers. Another really amazing day.

Southernmost Point

If you are going to brag about swimming in Antarctica you might as well also brag that you went swimming south of the Antarctic Circle. After all, the temperature is pretty much the same at the north end of our itinerary as the south.
Yes indeed. Hardy souls. We had over thirty people go for a dip at Stonnington Island which is our southernmost point.
Stonnington is the site of two former bases. British Base Y, which was abandoned in 1975 and American West Base which was abandoned in 1948. The buildings are intact with a lot of interesting artifacts. There is a lot of rubble lying about particularly at the garbage dump for the American base. Large machinery, old batteries, animal bones, odds and ends.

In the afternoon we landed at Horseshoe Island which was the site of British Base W (abandoned in 1957). The Base W hut contrasts sharply with the hut we saw yesterday. Here the floors are swept clean, the dishes are stacked and put neatly away. Everything is orderly.
There were lots of bright green veins of malachite (a copper carbonate) all around the rocky landscape. It looked like someone went crazy with florescent green paint.
In the evening we enjoyed a fashion show. Many departments from the ship were involved including the Captain, Hotel Manager, the Chef and the entire Expedition Team.

The Antarctic Circle

To cross the Antarctic Circle is a very special thing. The number of people that have managed it are measured only in the thousands. Most companies that engage in regular Antarctic tourism offer only one or two trips per year south of the Circle (if they offer it at all). There isn't a large window of opportunity. There are only about six to eight weeks out of every Antarctic summer that ships can reliably make the trip. Any earlier and there is often too much ice. Any later and the weather begins to turn.
In recognition of that milestone we invited King Neptune on board Fram to baptize all of those that crossed the Antarctric Circle for the first time.It never ceases to amaze me how eagerly everyone lines up to have ice cold water poured down their neck. Several people were so wrapped up in the spirit of adventure and Aquavit that they were baptized multiple times. The people that come on this trip are for the most part hardy, adventurous, fun-loving souls.
Shortly after 14:00 we landed on Detaille Island, the site of the former British Station W. This base was only opened for three years (1956-59). Remember what I said about 6 to 8 weeks per year when ships can reliably schedule visits to this part of the world? Station W shut down when sea ice and weather made relief by ship impossible. It really has the eerie feeling that everyone left in a hurry. The dishes from their last meal were not done. Long johns hang to dry over the stove.In the early evening around 20:00 we approached the entrance to a very narrow channel called the Gullet. Stunning glaciers form a wall of ice on both sides of the channel. There were hundreds of icebergs and many ghostly white Snow Petrels soaring about. Crabeater seals lazed about on ice floes. It was a very dramatic way to end our first day south of the Circle

Gentoos Eat Their Young!

Our first landing was at Cuverville Island the site of one of the largest Gentoo Colonies in Antarctica. Here at last was photographic proof that Gentoo penguins eat their young!
Just kidding.
As we walked about the island we could see many adults feeding their chicks. Sometimes the chick's head would literally disappear down the throat of its parent.
Everywhere you looked there were fat chicks. Many were lying on their plump bellies sound asleep. Other chicks were obviously suffering in the warm sun.

There was even a surprise visitor on Cuverville. A lone King penguin! This was a special treat and quite unexpected. For many of us this would be the only King penguin we will ever see. This was a youngster just getting ready to moult. It is not unusual for young birds to show up far from their colony in seemingly strange places.A lot of warm sunshine can promote calving glaciers and avalanches. Across the Channel on the Arctowski Peninsula a huge rumble alerted us to a massive avalanche pictured in the above photograph.
On the west side of the island there was a large group of approx. fifty Skuas. There seemed no end to their boldness as some of them pecked at camera bags and one even tried to fly away with a life jacket.
In the afternoon we enjoyed more stunning scenery on our way to Almirante Brown - an unoccupied Argentine base in Paradise Bay. This landing was cause for celebration as we would be taking our first steps on the actual Antarctic continent. Most of us climbed up the 90 metre hill behind the base to enjoy stunning views of Paradise Bay. Far below and in the distance we could see Humpback and Minke whales. Many of us slid on our posteriors down the hill. What fun!
From morning until night there was an endless parade of whales. There seemed hardly a moment when we could not see a Humpback or a Minke.

Hooray And Up She Rises!

Whoa! And the seas and the winds continued to rise through the night. Ten to twelve metre waves! Forty to Forty five knot winds. Man the helm matey! On the bridge there was a herculean struggle as a team of sailors manned the helm. It was man against King Neptune himself as the valiant sailors fought to keep Fram on course.
Ahem. Cough. Well. Not exactly. The helm on Fram is the three inch (8cm) black joystick on the upper right of the photograph. It takes only one or two fingers to steer this 11,647 ton vessel. You can literaly steer the ship with your pinky.
Yes, we certainly did have twelve metre waves and forty+ knot winds but our course is plotted into a computer. It is definitely not as simple as just turning on a computer and pushing a go button. Far from it, but a few taps on that little joystick is enough to alter course around most obstacles. The navigation officers and sailors are ever vigilant watching for ice and other hazards. In addition, we have state of the art radar. An excellent GPS system and redundant navigation systems. We have excellent stabilizers that smooth out the bumpy ride.
Still not everyone was comfortable. Lectures and IAATO briefings were postponed until later in the day.
Around 15:00 there was a big change in the weather. The seas began to lie down. By 18:00 it was pretty smooth sailing once again. The sun burst through the clouds lighting up our first icebergs in brilliant sunshine. Our day ended with an extraordinary sunset bathing Smith Island in a beautiful pink glow.

The Wind Goes Round and Round

Think about it: the Southern Ocean is the only place on earth where the wind can whip around 360º of the planet totally unimpeded. Well perhaps not totally unhindered. Our gallant ship Fram is out here bouncing merrily along heading south. Surely the wind notices. And as the wind cyclones around and around, it pushes water, building waves and lifting albatrosses.
The wind blew harder and the waves grew higher steadily through the morning.
I think one could come up with a formula using the number of empty seats in the dining room to accurately determine sea states and Beaufort scale. Today was between force 7 and 8 for much of the day. A comfy ride for those used to it. A long time riding the bunk for those who haven't yet found their sea legs.
While some of us may not be completely comfortable out here on the Drake, the many soaring albatrosses that attended the ship were in their element.
At 10:00 we joined the expedition team on the stern deck 7 to admire true masters of the southern wind, Wandering and Royal Albatrosses. We also saw many other seabirds including Slender-billed Prions, Wilson's Storm Petrels, White-chinned Petrels and Giant Petrels.
There were lectures throughout the day. In the evening many of us enjoyed an epsiode of the fabulous Blue Planet nature documentary series.
We are all excited contemplating the possibility of our first landing tomorrow at Half Moon Island!

Ushuaia Days

It is always a busy time on Fram when we are in port. New supplies come in. We take on fuel. Garbage and recyclables go off. New crew arrive. Some crew leave. In the morning we say good-bye to our new friends and luggage goes off. In the afternoon we welcome friends that are soon to be and new luggage comes on.
Once on board one can see that the crew is very efficient. Soon our photos are taken and we are issued photo I.D. cards and a room key. We are then escorted to our cabins where our luggage is already waiting for us. Magic. Before long it is dinner time. The dining room is full of excited chatter as the ship prepares to leave port.
Looking out the large picture windows in the dining room there is a momentary illusion that it is the dock slipping away from us and not us moving from the dock. Fram casts off with barely a vibration and our journey begins!
At 20:30 we mustered outside on deck five for a mandatory safety drill. At 21:00 we rendezvoused in the beautiful Observation Lounge on deck seven for the Captain's welcome. We were introduced to some of the key personnel on the ship including the Expedition Leader and her team.
What a very long and tiring journey we had all experienced to get to the true beginning of our adventure in Antarctica. Antarctic Circle, here we come!

We call ourselves “Cape-Horniers” now

Cape Horn. The seaman’s nemesis. Sometimes it took sailing vessels literally months to round the Horn. This little piece of ocean was feared and respected by sailors. The calm seas we have enjoyed on the Drake have allowed us the luxury of cruising by Cape Horn from the Atlantic into the Pacific. The Captain blew the ship’s horn when we crossed from one ocean into the other. Cape Horn is a special place and we consider ourselves lucky to have had such excellent views of the historic nautical landmark.


We are fortunate on Fram to have a terrific atmosphere in which to work live and play. The atmosphere on any vessel starts at the top with the Captain and then trickles on down through every department. Today we would like to say a special thank you to the sailors and bossun on board. We see them almost every day. We get to know them well as they are also the Polar Cirkle boat drivers. There are other unsung heroes here such as the laundry men. We never see them but they are hard at work day after day in rough seas or calm. Thank you for doing such a terrific job!

Oh, and incidentally, it´s time for our photographer, Manuel, to say good-bye to the blog. As you can see, he was taken over by the stunning beauties of Antarctica!

Va-room-va-room the engine room

Uneventful. That’s the way we like it. Storm free. Gently rolling seas. Fram rolls steadfastly northward. The weather is fair and the Drake induces a gentle roll to Fram, just enough to lull one to sleep. The lecture halls are busy throughout the day and they are full. The atmosphere on board is one of quiet contentment. Everyone is reveling in their memories of ice, mountains, penguins, whales, seals, wind, seabirds, snow, more ice, solitude, crisp fresh air, Polar Cirkle boats, the Antarctic Circle and, day after day of the most spectacular scenery on earth. All cherished memories, all fresh, vivid. Today is a chance to reflect on all of the wonderful things that we have seen and done in the past 11 days.

We relax on Fram forgetting about the massive amounts of high tech machinery we rely on and the people that maintain it. Huge engines provide the energy that keeps us moving, there is heating and ventilation systems, electrical systems and water systems. We don’t think about the team of engineers and sailors that keep the whole thing running. For the most part they are invisible and that means they are doing their job perfectly. It is their dedication to their job and knowledge of their craft that keeps Fram purring along, rolling steadfastly northward towards Cape Horn.