Bjørnøya- the Bear Island

A question for you: Is Bjørnøya in Svalbard or Spitsbergen? The use of names is always a bit confusing. In 1194, the Vikings came to a place they called „the cold edge“- or Svalbard in their language. The official name distinction is: Spitsbergen is the main island- while Svalbard is the name for the entire archipelago- including Bjørnøya!

The origin of the name Bjørnøya itself is also quite interesting! In 1596, Willem Barents reached the island and his men killed a polar bear- hence the naming Bjørnøya, the Bear Island.Bjørnøya is a place rarely visited due to it`s remoteness- most tourists in our days fly to Longyearbyen and only a few arrive by vessel and maybe then pass by the island.  Bjørnøya has the reputation of often begin a bit foggy- but what a day today! Calm weather, sun, beautiful reflections! We were able to do both a cruising in front of the magnificent bird cliffs as well as a landing. Being in a Polar Cirkle boat in front of a 400m high bird cliff with thousands of birds above you truly gives you a perspective of one’s own „importance“. Suddenly you feel very small and just in awe with nature! Keep in mind that Bjørnøya is the only piece of land within a long range so many sea birds come here for nesting- or resting. The most abundant species are the Brünich`s guillemot and the Common guillemot, but in the cliffs one also sees Kittiwakes (ca 100.000 breeding pairs), Fulmars, a few Glaucous gulls and Little auk colonies. So our time in the Polar Cirkle boats was just flying by! As the weather was extremely calm, our expedition leader Karin Strand decided to also go ashore- a really rare occasion! The walk up to a cliff offered fantastic views into the bay and „our“ MV Fram.

Hornsund: flowers, Belugas and a Polar Bear- June 17

Glacier front, high mountain tops, Belugas in the fjord swimming among the ice and a polar bear waiting patiently for a catch at a hole- enough hints about our day?

The scenery alone is impressive enough in Spitsbergen’s southernmost fjord- eight large glaciers are calving into the Sund while in the background you see Hornsundtind, the third- highest mountain of Svalbard. We landed at Gnålodden- a nice place and good for a short walk. There is a large sea bird colony, and due to the rich fertilization you find some moss and lots of saxifraga. Trappers have been in the area for a long time due to the earlier hunting of polar bears and the hut you can see was in use until 1971.

Bears and foxes.... Today, we did not see a trapper hunting in Burgerbukta, but a polar bear! And we did see a pot of Belugas (White Whales) swimming in the brush ice! The Beluga belongs to the toothed-whales and is up to 1.500kg heavy. The name is a bit misleading as they only turn to a creamy color at the age of approximately 7 years while the younger once have a rather grayish color. And one tip: if you ever come on board, bring your binoculars!

Now we are on the way to Bjørnøya- time for lectures, information briefings and the curious feeling what tomorrow will bring!

Welcome to Longyearbyen- June 16, 2010

Most passengers arrived today rather early with a direct charter flight from Germany. And even though it meant not much sleep along the way- it was so much worth it! Imagine flying over Svalbard at 1am- you can see the mountain tops, all is snow covered, the light is very soft and the clouds prevent the view into the fjords. And suddenly you are there- Longyearbyen appears in the Midnight sun.

During the day we had a chance to learn more about this small, but very active community! Longyearbyen- the unofficial capital of Svalbard- offers an interesting local history as traces from mining are visible at many places. In the late afternoon we boarded MV Fram but the day was not over! Barentsburg, situated in Groenfjord, the „green harbor“ was our destination for the evening where we went to pier. The mining town is somehow very different from what you were expecting- the most heard comment in the beginning of the landing was that it really needs a clean-up. There is still mining going on with Russian and Ukrainian workers. And one finds a small school for 11 children. But when you have talked to the locals, listened to the enthusiastic guiding and have been to the folkoreshow that was presented in the evening- only then you truly understand the beauty of Barentsburg.

It was a day full of impressions- but it is hard to go to bed! Let me tell you- the midnight sun is best around 2am- and that is something you do not want to miss. What you are going to miss is a daily report of this voyage- this is a true expedition without internet connection.

The "real" start of the season

7th and 8th of June

FRAM awaits her season start in Longyearbyen. While waiting for new supplies, FRAM gets ship shape for the summer season 2010.

9th of June - Longyearbyen/Barentsburg

With almost 200 newly arrived guests from all over the world we leave Longyearbyen at 18.00. The eternal midnight sun sets no constraints for our travelling along the sunlit Icefjord. We are heading towards the Russian coal-mining settlement Barentsburg. For the Russian dance ensemble from Barentsburg the beginning of the season brings a closure to the winter-long preparations resulting in their excellent rendering of a joyful mixture of old and new traditional songs and dances. We thoroughly enjoy this gem of arctic artistic splendor, before we head south to the southern part of Spitsbergen.

10th of June Hornsund - Gnålodden

The old 'English' whaling fjord Hornsund with its eight long-stretched glaciers awaits us with "Kaiserwetter" [emperor's weather] as some of the German passengers on board spontaneously remark. Our landing site this morning, Gnålodden, unveils the majestic and monolithic 'Gnålberget' which constitutes the outermost spur of the long-stretched mountain ridge 'Sofiekammen'. This spectacular view strikes a chord in us that reminds us of the the 'sublime feel' of the grandeur of nature. It needs no mentioning: the abundance of colours and contrasts on this day is beyond words. Directly from sea level, we can marvel at this bird cliff which would be unheard of when traveling in the Alps or other scenic parts of the world.

After having cruised in 'Burgerbukta' we explored 'Brepollen' where the ever-receding glaciers invited for closer scrutiny of this majestic fjord. This day stays in our memory for a long time due to the extraordinary arctic sunlight on this day which is so utterly special for this region of the world.

11th of June Bjørnøya

During the night we have continued further south and left the southernmost headland of Spitsbergen to sail for Bjørnøya. The island where the fog reigns shows mercy on us. Slightly overcast but with good visibility we approach the southern corner of this forlorn island in the early hours of the day and start our tendering along these impressive sedimentary rocks. Their existence hints at the old sea beds that they once served as in prehistoric times. Only a minor swell is left and puts no noteworthy strain on our tender-operations. Thousands of Kittiwakes and Guillemots have started their breeding season and invite us into their universe. At a safe distance we can closely follow their 'to and fro' on the rocky ledges. Some of them point their black plumage towards us probably waiting for some of these scarce arctic sunrays in order to warm their elegant bodies.

Filled with marvelous impressions from this usually wind-torn and mist-covered island between Norway and Spitsbergen we head back in northerly direction.....This time heading for the ice-covered Bellsund in the southern part of this Arctic Archipelago with its secretive ancient Nordic name: "Svalbard".

Saturday12th of June Bellsund

Another day of peak experience has passed in one of Mother Nature’s most northerly cradle on earth. This time we sail for the Bellsund situated at the southern part of Spitsbergen. This day, indeed, is a blessing and one could think of the Danish Poet Piet Hein’s saying: “Living is a thing you do either now or never which do you? And living we did: with our two lungs breathing the cold arctic air in this magnificent labyrinth of fjords which finally brought forth our landing destination ‘Ahlstrandhalvøya’ in the van Keulenfjord. The majestic ice and snow covered mountain ridge of the adjacent ‘Berzeliustinden’ made us feel humble when walking over its low lying and long-stretched plains. They consisted of soft exposed sedimentary layers hinting at the existence of a prehistoric sea-bottom that had risen above the surface due to the age-old melting of Svalbard’s ice sheet. Few troops of barnacle geese set the scene as they fly at a distance between the glittering mountains and our bespoke travelers on this sunny day. Now and again an eerie sound from foraging ‘Common Eider’ at a distance breaks the silence and gives us a feel of ‘civilized’ comfort. At least we are not alone.

Alas, and alone we were not. Particularly due to this one capital polar bear who was trying to swim past the headland across which we had just commenced our stroll. Navigating through the maze of ice-floes he came ever nearer and curiously pointed his nose to us; probably realizing that many tele-lenses had targeted his until recently secretive swim. Following a short pause and somewhat startled he commenced his chosen path through the ice littered fjord continuing his solitary existence.

But not enough we would see a polar bear anew. However, this time showing us his ‘food chamber’ of slaughtered prey hidden carefully behind rocks along the icy coastline. While devouring his recent kill, our hardnosed friend measured our presence only from time to time. However, it was obvious we were dealing with a very confident fellow well aware of his position as the reigning king of this archipelago. It felt sad to say good bye to this spectacular scene. We wished him farewell and headed north ….this time on our way to the infamous northwestern corner of Spitsbergen excited to unveil yet another secret of the captivating past of this part of the world. Bear with us…..it is itching to tell more…..

13th June Magdalenafjord and Moffen

And off we go. In the polar circle boats we are leaving the FRAM behind us to our landing at Gravneset in the Magdalenefjord, the famous resting ground of whalers stretching from the 16th to the 18th century to the infamous whalehunting fjord Magdalenefjord. Puzzlingly, the FRAM appears tiny while it is tightly snuggled into a background of majestic and cathedral-like granite mountain ridges. The eeriness of this place haunts the visitor while learning more about the tragic background of many whalers perishing in these arctic waters. The old story goes that once a Greenland right whale was harpooned the crew in the boat could feel the whirling wind close to their ears. It was of such a breathtaking speed which the fleeing whale showed in his final endeavour to escape his hunters. This was ever so often associated with acute danger for capsize for the whalers in their small auxiliary vessels. The lecture on the Spitsbergen whaling history is captivating, however the erratic weather of Spitsbergen shows its face today and reminds us about the hardship for the earlier pioneers of Spitsbergen. Nevertheless, some of our hardened passengers are unimpressed and take the challenge by showing their elegant (at least some) swimming strokes in icy waters.

Finally towards the evening we reach ‘Moffen’, the tiny windtorn island sporting a walrus colony above 80 degrees northern latitude. From far beyond this area, we can sense the Northpole (600 sm away from us) somewhere out there in the white ‘nothingness’ of the eternal packice.

14th of June Krossfjorden/Ny-Ålesund

FRAM’s early start of the season, means that we still meet some of the inner areas of the fjords which are still icebound. We are flexible enough to change our landing site from the Lillehøkfjorden to the nearby Møllerfjorden and can enjoy a well-received stroll along the icy northerly coastline of this fjord leading us up to close vicinity to the glacierfront of the ‘Kolleerbreen’. Some of us even take the opportunity to follow the ‘sporty’ guides and climb up into the higher regions of the moraines that the receeding glacier had left behind. Some of the impeccably white looking ivory gulls seem to smile at us and wonder what we do up here. The sun lits up the scene and the contrasts of colours are crystal clear. A divine mighty force has made all this, one would think. We can only rest in deep contemplation about the grandeur of nature which meets unfiltered our eyes in this remote fjord.

Cruising the Krossfjorden and the Kongsfjorden we finally arrive at the most northern settlement in the world: Ny-Ålesund. Its reputation as an important research station is witnessed by many nation’s involvement into climate research.

15th June Isfjorden - Skansebukta

The ship arrives on the easterly side of Carls Prince Forland and puts its bow close to ‘Poolepynten’, one of the main destinations of walruss colonies in this archipelago. The thirst for knowledge is unabated also on this day. A cruise in this part of the world inevitably triggers our curiosity about arctic wildlife and the cultural history of the north. Undoubtedly, Norwegian polar history is one important pillar. Today it is abundant opportunity for lectures on various fields spanning from Svalbard’s reindeers year life cyclus to the historical FRAM expedition (1893-1896) led by Fridtjof Nansen. What a miracle that this vessel successfully drifted through the treacherous ice which - as a result- had put Norway on the world map as a leading polar nation.

We continue our journey through the Iceford and for a short while stop by at Pyramiden and come finally to our final anchorage at ‘Skansebukta’: the old gypsum mining place of the early 20th century. Here we enjoy our final landingsite, the prehistoric uplifted seabed on which we stroll around, the surrounding glittering mountains lit by the midnight let us marvel at the sublime wonder of this majestic place.

Sadly this journey comes to an end. There is a certain melancholy amongst us feeling the pending departure and leaving this sublime nature that has made us so very humble and appreciative for Mother Nature. We bid farewell to our newly made friends. Maybe it is the start of a yearning that will bring back some of us one day drawn by the secretive and inexplicable call of the North.

ISFJORDEN - and farewell

Sunday 6^th of June

Today we sailed in Isfjorden, and this was a good name for this fjord today, because in the beginning we met a lot of drifting ice. There were six lectures before lunch all together, and while Marta was talking about coal production in Svalbard, we actually passed the Russian settlement, Barentsburg and saw the black smoke from the coal power station there.

After lunch captain Rune Andreassen and his crew invited for a farewell coctail in Panorama Lounge, deck 7.

The cottage in Skansebukta. And some purple saxifragas. Photo: Ian Lawson

In the afternoon we landed in Skansebukta. And finally, we could have a bath. Yes, in the fjord. And again, the Chinese were the toughest of us. Afterwards we had a nice Barbeque dinner on deck 7.

We arrived Longyearbyen in the middle of the night – and all the Chinese left the boat for an early plain. And it felt empty.

This voyage, as everything – has to come to an end. It has been a beautiful and fantastic voyage. Me, the blogger would like to thank you, both my new friends at Hurtigruten and all the passengers and all others who made Fram’s first trip to Spitsbergen possible.  

PS: Monday some of the remaining passengers went to the University of Svalbard (UNIS) and got a lecture there. They also had a guided tour in Longyearbyen.  

FINALLY, THE KING

SATURDAY 5^th of June

We woke up and had our breakfast in Raudfjorden this morning. All landscape was covered by snow and also a lot of fast ice in the fjord. It was not possible to do a landing, but suddenly everybody forgot about that, because the captain was on the loud speaker:

POLAR BEARS! Finally. Three of them, or were there four, or five? Somebody said six, so – well, they were far away, more like small yellow walking spots on the white ice.

– That was the animal I wanted to see the most, so this was really funny, said Olevarius Frostad Udsby who thought the bears looked quite big in his binocular. Olevarius is the youngest tourist on this voyage, ten years old. He is taking a lot of pictures every day and also making this little film he is going to show his friends at school when he returns.

After a while we left the bears to go even further north, to 80 degrees. We went to see Moffen, this little island north of Spitsbergen – and there we could see several groups of walruses on the shore, swimming and playing and breathing in the water, over 100 all together.

 

After a while we got a visitor on the vessel, king Neptun. He baptised the toughest of us, well, the Chinese, with ice cubes. In the afternoon we did a landing and climbed a little mountain at Ytre Norskeøya. Then we sailed south, and reached the most beautiful fjord in the world, Magdalenefjorden around midnight.

Puh, what a day! We have to learn you a Norwegian word: Ojojoj!

At the top of Ytre Norskøya, little Fram to the left. Photo: Ian Lawson

NY ÅLESUND

FRIDAY 4th of June

This Friday we spent in the northernmost permanent settlement in the world: Ny Ålesund. In the summer time around 150 people lives here, researchers from all over the world. China, Korea, India, Norway and six more nations have research stations here.

But we were not the first tourists in the town. Last summer they had about 30.000.

– This summer there will be even more tourists, said Roger Jakobsen. He is the director of Kings Bay which is running the logistics for the researchers in Ny Ålesund.

– We have to find a balance between tourism and research, he said. Too much tourism can damage the research.

– But it is also important that people can see what we are doing, he said, and then strictly instructed us to follow the rules:

– Stay on the roads, don’t touch anything, don’t throw anything – and turn off your bluetooth.

 The northernmost permanent settlement in the world, Ny Ålesund. Photo: Ian Lawson

Then we went to town in another beautiful day. We had a guided tour in town and also a tour outside town in the afternoon.

Next to us in the fjord we saw a whaling boat and a blue vessel with a rainbow on it. Greenpeace had just arrived town, helping some German scientists with equipment. The press group and some other of the passengers got a brief about the actual project, which was a cooperation between nine different countries, trying to find out more about pollution and CO2 storage in the oceans.

We left around eight o’ clock – to get a closer look on the glaciers in Kongsfjorden and the sun helped us with a beautiful light.

EVEN MORE WALRUSES

The shining sun and around 15 walruses started this thursday in this Arctic Paradise. The walruses where at Poolepynten on Prins Karls Forland, on the west coast of Spitsbergen. Here we did a landing to take a closer look at these fascinating animals.

– To see this animal real is totally different than to see them in pictures. It was very exiting! But we were told to keep quiet, so I had to keep my feelings inside, said Yu Xue Yong. The photographer of today’s picture.  

Vivian Lee also liked the animals very much.

– It felt good, to give them a little space – and being quiet and protect them, she said.

 Our big, beautiful friends. Photo: Yu Xue Yong

This was another day with sun and fantastic high mountain peaks trying to crash the sky. After lunch we sailed into St. Johnsfjorden. To the very end. There were ice and ice and seals, we looked and looked, but no, we did not see this yellow, white, big thing. The fog came sneaking into the evening when the crew were holding their show in the Panorama Lounge.   

Ice, ice, ice and a sleeping walrus

WEDNESDAY 2nd of June

What a morning! We’ll let photographer Xavier Cervera from Barcelona, Spain tell from his cabin:

– My alarm was on 08.30, but I woke up 06.15 from a strange sound. It was a totally new sound for me, that I have never experienced before. And the vessel went very slowly. I went to the window, opened the curtains and waow – we were surrounded by ice, he told.

– What did you think?

– I felt like being on another planet. Where am I? Are we stuck? Must we stay here? I thought. I didn’t shower, I didn’t even take off my pyjamas, I just ran out and started taking pictures …

Photo: Camille Seaman

Xavier didn’t know the ice was going to surround us the hole day. We didn’t manage to get into Hornsund as planned , but went into Van Keulenfjorden further north instead. And there, we met the biggest animal so far, a really beautiful walrus relaxing on the ice.  We all ran out with our very long cameras, but he walrus didn’t really care. He continued his afternoon sleep, lifting his head once in a while.  And about thousand click later we left him, still with our cameras lifted, looking for other animals, some actually saw reindeers on the beach, some also saw seals, but no king of Arctic, yet.

Photo: Camille Seaman

The weather? Sun and no wind, the mountains were actually reflected in the water.  And the glaciers – crashing with the fjords, again and again and again. Also the really experienced people aboard were kind of amazed, making really happy noices on the deck. 

In the evening we found a nice landing site on the southern shore of Van Keulenfjorden.  We saw some whale bones from the hunting of white whales in the 1930s – and even flowers – this summer’s purple saxifraga. After that, the clock told us midnight, even though the sun was still shining. And shining and shining, till the clock told us it was a new morning again. 

BJØRNØYA – Day 4

Today we reached Svalbard – and it’s southernmost island, Bjørnøya. And this was really the Big Bird Day. We have met one of the largest sea bird colonies in the North Atlantic actually. We arrived the southern tip of Bjørnøya in the middle of the day. Then we already had listened to about four lectures, and some also saw whales from the deck – so this is not quite a lazy holiday … 

Guillemots and kittiwakes. Photo: Ian Lawson

When we arrived Bjørnøya we went out in the small boats, watching the fantastic cliffs and birds. In sun, snow, wind and sun again.

Photo: Ian Lawson

Some of us learned a lot of new bird names today, but now we have to ask, Gro Vestues, our biologist and member of the Expedition Staff:

–  What have we actually seen today?

– During the breakfast we saw the fulmar, sailing past the windows, watching our coffee. When we got closer to Bjørnøya we saw the guillemots, a lots of them, and kittiwakes. And during the small boat cruise we saw all these birds pluss the glaucous gull nesting. In between we also saw some great skuas passing by, Gro said.

– And what was this day like for you, bird lover?

– It was really good to be back on Svalbard and see my old friends, she completed.

When we left Bjørnøya the snow and wind curtains closed down the view for a while  – perfect weather for even more education. 

NORDKAPP – the northernmost?

Hello there!

We are already in day three. And this monday was full of birds. Or, sorry, at first we visited Nordkapp, the northernmost place in Norway, we were told. But afterwards they told us it was a lie, because Knivskjellodden, a small spit to the left – is even further north.

It seems like it’s very important this “northernmost-thing”: The city were we disembarked, Honningsvåg, has fought for a long period with Hammerfest to be the northernmost city in the world. And our bus guide also told us about a lot of “northernmost this and the northernmost that” – and also the northernmost cat and dogs and even the northernmost American Car Club – all in Honningsvåg.

The northernmost ptarmigan? And the northernmost Chinese? Photo: Jørn Henriksen

In the morning there were some clouds, but than the nice weather came sneaking into our day – so when we reached Gjæsværtappan the sun was shining again. 

– Much better than they told us, Per Martin Pettersen smiled. He was out on deck five together with his wife Gunnhild Eidsvoll, she also very smiling.

Gjæsvartappan is a group of islands in Nordkapp municipality, with Norway’s largest bird colony.

– I saw a gannet. Fantastic! And I also learned the skill between razorbill and guillemot, she said, proudly.

They are both teachers from Moelv, close to Lillehammer in Norway.

– We are so exited. I think you need both fysical and sensual experiences to understand what all this talk about climate is about, Gunnhild said. Neither of them have been to Svalbard before.

After waving good bye to Nordkapp from the ocean it was time for education. Olav Orheim, former director of the Norwegian Polar Institute talked about what happens with the climate in the Arctic. The famous german climate researcher Mojib Latif talked about “Why the polar bear needs a refrigerator”. And now, outside: Only ocean, ocean, ocean, grey, black, white, beautiful.

TROMSØ – for two days

29th and 30th of May

WELCOME to this blog. And this trip. Climate Voyage 2010 from Tromsø to Spitsbergen. First Climate Voyage for Hurtigruten ever. First time to Spitsbergen as well.

We will tell you in key words what is happening every day on this trip. Some days we will present ”A guest of the day”, their thoughts, experiences and expectations. But lets start with yesterday, also called Saturday.

When the vessel arrived Tromsø. For the first time. Congratulations! It is 114 years since  last time another Fram was in Tromsø. Then with Fridtjof Nansen. When he returned from his attempt to reach the North Pole in 1896.

Saturday we all embarked. Amongst us: Chinese, Germans, Scandinavians –192 people all together, business people, professors, scientists, journalists and so on. At the Polar Environmental Centre we got wine and canapees – and together with the very shining sun this was a warm welcome.

Sunday the ship opened the doors for visitors from Tromsø. The sun was gone, and we went back to the Polar Environmental Centre to learn more about the climate changes and the polar bear.

– Should we go on a cruise like this? was one of the questions to the Director of Norwegian Polar Institute, Jan-Gunnar Winther.

– This is a cruise with substance. Don’t have bad conscience. You will be good ambassadors, he told us.  

– Have a nice trip! You have a lot to look forward too! he completed.

At five o’ clock we waved good bye to Tromsø, then we waved to Lyngsalpene and we are still waving – to beautiful mountains and low, grey skies as we are heading north.

Music, Waves and Whales

What a amazing morning. The last day of  our Event-Cruise  was a highlight pure. Nyksund, the old
fishing community that came to fame when it was so abruptly depopulated. The houses cling on the
rock knolls around the harbour.

Red, greeen an grey wharf buildings are clustered together, their paint peeling. More than a few are one the verge of total disintegration. Inside the village itself, all is eerily calm-even on a fine summers day, like in the beautiful morning today.

Finally, there is some activity, as tourists of different nationalities amble betweeen the wharfs and houses with their cameras ready to captures images of this former ghost town. This are also the pictures on the day when all passengers of MV Fram qonquer Nyksund. The condition of the village bears witness to this-during the hectic tourist season, there is a melancoly undertone always present. And in the end of our walking through Nyksund there was a surprise for our passengers.

There was a classical concert in the museum, a former storehouse on the harbourside. Music from Debussy, Hugo Wolf, Arvid Hansen and Edvard Grieg with norwegians artists-Marit Nygård (Piano) and Synne Meland (Songs). A unique athmosphere on this historical place.

After leaving Nyksund we headed for the Vesteralen Islands. To the West the island of Andoya there is a little rock called Bleikoya, which is home to tens of thousands of seabirds. Kittywakes, cormorants, alks, puffins, skuas and sea eagles were observed in great flocks turning around Bleikoya and feeding right offshore. However, because of the rocky approach, we couldn't get as close as at Runde.

So in the end we headed North-Northwest for the deep sea canyon off Andenes. This is where the male sperm whales dive to the sea floor, as deep as 1.000 metres below the surface, to catch squid, their preferred food. Their females prefer warmer temperatures of more than 15 degrees C and stay in the Carribbean, around the Azores, Madeira or off the Canary Islands. Shortly before reaching the canyon, the helmsman exclaimed "there she blows!". 

We joined the whale-watching vessel from Andenes, MS Reine, which is equipped with an under- water microphone and via radio channel 16 were informed when strong clicks were heard, indicating a surfacing whale. We were verz lucky: our first whale surfaced right in front of us at 1 o'clock from our course, heading for us. After breathing about 30 times, the head of the whale came higher up, the animal took one last breath and then curved its back: "diving!". Then the fluke came up as the whale headed down for another vertical dive. Everybody took a photo of the tail, which for sperm whales is like a fingerprint. We will be able to identify the animal from the Andenes sperm whale catalogue.

The day ended in Bjarkoya, the settlement of the Viking Thore Hund, where we were met by real vikings and their families.

Fjords, Legends and Trolls

Again it is a beautiful morning. Today we spent nearly a full day on the archipelago of the Lofoten, famous for its natural beauty. At 7 a.m. our ship docked at the small pier of Reine. Two excursions were offered. One a visit to the fishing village of Å (the shortest village name in the world) and another one to the Lofotr Viking Museum in Borg. At 1p.m. MV FRAM set sail to the village of Svolvær, which is located on the south coast of Austvågøy. There our guests joined a rafting safari or a tour to Storvågan and Henningsvær.

At 6 p.m. we left Svolvær for more gorgeous landscape; the narrow approximately 2 km long Trollfjord. The name derives from troll, a figure from the Norse mythology. While cruising through the fjord we even spotted those legendary Trolls.

By special invitation the local guide, Geir, from Digamulen gave us and introduction to the upcoming port, Digamulen. At 9:30 p.m. we reached the village of Digamulen, where our Captain Rune Andreassen was born. Most of our guests went by Polar Circle Boat for a visit to this little charming place.