Moodswing in Sisimiut

Friends, this is not what we asked for…

Can you imagine - clouds…? Yes, impossible as it may seem, the skies over Sisimiut are covered in grey this morning. Never mind, at least we can go to the pier and do not have to tender. Well, that's what we think - and then the fish trawler simply doesn't leave. So into the boats and shuttle over. Feels like a bad start. But luck favours the brave, and so we do not deviate an inch from the plans: The long hikers start their long hike, the boat trip to Assaqutaq takes off, the museum opens the doors for us. And behold, after a little while the skies open up, the sun starts to paint the fjord from grey to multicolor. The tiny little dots on the mountain ridge in the distance turn out to be the long hikers who actually made it through the clouds to the top. Drop the fleece jackets, put on sunscreen - we're back on track! The historical hike suddenly feel likes a stroll in the park, the city invites for shopping in the various stores and handicraft workshops. Even the Kayakers that arrive in the late afternoon to demonstrate their amazing skills look a little overdressed in the sunshine (believe me, they're not!). Another day in paradise...

Gang-er-sluss-uark...

...Gang-er-sluss-uark, Gang-er-sluss-uark: Whoever takes the trouble to pronounce the name of the place right will end up speaking it just this way for many, many times. Among our new arrivals there are quite a few walking around, nose in their notebooks, rehearsing like an actor. Greenlandic is certainly not the most palate-friendly idiom.

It is always a bit awkward to have changeover day, standing in the middle of two groups, one leaving that we have learned to know well over the recent days, and another one arriving, keen and happy and looking forward to the new adventure. But put it that way: Lookig back, facing beautiful memories may be a little sad, but you just had a time many others are longing to have. And who says you won't be back…?

And a smooth beginning it was, indeed: Everybody on time, no lost luggage, excursion vehicles ready to pick up the groups on the dot and everything under blue skies - again!

The orange Thermal Protection Suits have never been gleaming so happily on a drill as under the afternoon sun in the fjord, and during Captain's Welcome we nearly need our sunglasses in the observation lounge.

Quite many resist the urge to sleep and stay out on deck for a moment, while the second longest fjord in the world slowly plunges into the darkness of the greenlandic night.

Scones and Scores in Itilleq

Bathed in sunlight, the small village of Itilleq is sitting smugly in the small Fjord like a happy collection of colorful dice just tossed over the country. We are being shuttled over on calm, glittering waters, still rubbing in the last bits of sunscreen. A weird but very Greenlandic sight awaits us on the pier: four musk ox heads, with fur and eyes and all, are neatly arranged next to the landing site - it's shooting season. The successful hunters are proudly cutting up the vasts amounts of dark red meat and offer it for sale. Funnily enough our passengers all decline…

The Kaffemik, however, is more than welcome. It is certainly not often that you get a chance to sit in a Greenlander's house, being served delicious coffee and cake, while having a curious look around at the decor. It is surprisingly modern, featuring microwave oven and TV (showing a live broadcast of the football match Narssaq vs. Nuuk) and - probably the result of a grandson nagging for weeks - a gargantuan ghettoblaster in the corner of the living room. Then again, it's all about family, there seems to be not enough space on the wall for all the pictures of many generations. Greenland is definitely in a state of transition, tradition meets modern life.

Later on, guests and staff and crew of MV FRAM are put to the test during the famous soccer match in the middle of the village. For once we are not entirely devastated and come out with a spectacular 3:3. Well done!

And then everything takes a little melancholic turn: it's Captain's Farewell. That means the week - this splendid, beautiful week! - is getting to an end. Under a most romantic sunset we pass our last waypoint and turn into the Kangerlussuaq Fjord, where it all began only a week ago.

Ilulissat

We have seen lots of spectacular ice on this trip already but today is our major ice day.  Ilulissat means iceberg in Greenlandic and that pretty much sums it up.  The glacier Sermeq Kujalleq is the most actively calving glacier in the northern hemisphere.  The ice flows at a rate of approximately 19 metres a day.  Due to the unique nature of the nearby glacier, Ilulissat and surroundings became a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2004.

If you go to Ilulissat you absolutely must  see the Ice Fjord (also known as Kangia).  It is spectacular.  

We offer a variety of ways to experience the Ice Fjord.  There are helicopter, boat and hiking trips.  All of them are great!

Another gorgeous day greeted us as we dropped anchor just outside the harbour of Ilulissat at 08:00.  We continued our streak of nearly perfect weather.  

 No matter how you chose to view the ice - the views were always breathtaking. The mouth of the Fjord was choked with very large icebergs.   Lots of people selected two different excursions.  Boat and helicopter. Boat and hike.  Hike and...  whatever.  There was plenty of time to do two.  There was also ample time to wander about town.

The last Polar Cirkle boat left shore at 18:30 and the ship heaved anchor at 19:00.  As we passed the mouth of the fjord we saw a couple of humpback whales very near the ice. 

Our evening was filled with a charity auction where Fram raises funds for children in Greenland. Following the auction we were entertained by the crew with a great show of singing and dancing.

Eqip Sermia

It was another beautiful morning as we cruised towards the glacier Eqip Sermia. En route we passed the old abandoned mining town of Qulissat.  We could see from the ship that the town looks as if everyone just left yesterday. 

 Our morning was filled with lectures in English, Danish and German.  We also attended briefings about our activities for tomorrow.

As we approached Eqip Sermia the channel became full of ice.  It was like a long conveyor belt of icebergs. The weather was terrific.  There were scattered clouds and lots of blue sky.

At 15:30 we were visited by King Neptune.  He was here to baptize all those who had crossed the Arctic Circle for the first time.  Lots of people lined up to have ice-cold water poured down their neck!

At 17:00 we dropped anchor at Eqip Sermia and began to whisk everyone to shore in the Polar Cirkle boats.  There was barely any wind and the sky was clearing up.  There were constant loud rumbles from the Glacier.

We were joined at Eqip Sermia by the ship the Bremen.  Soon we could hear there zodiacs running back and forth to the beach.  It was a very colourful mix of blue jackets from Fram and red jackets from the Bremen.

The last boat left shore at 20:45.

We all enjoyed a delcious barbeque back on the ship.

At 21:45 we were entertained in the observation lounge with a demonstration of fruit and ice carving.

M-m-m-mannaq and Ukkusisat

Sometimes there are hardships to endure during this voyage in Greenland.  Today I had to eat lunch at Hotel Uummannaq.  It is a magnificent buffet featuring local delicacies such are Muskox, Halibut, Reindeer, Seal, Whale and Shrimps.  We offer this lunch as an optional excursion and it is always very popular.  Today it was my turn to go.  Yippy!  I tried everything except for the whale meat.  I spent many years with a whale research group and then a couple of years at an aquarium.  I lecture very often on whales.  With that as my background no doubt you understand it when I say it would now be difficult for me to eat one.  However I did ask several people how they liked the Minke whale meat.  Invariably they said they were surprised.  They described it as being very good.  It was quite tender, mild flavoured and a little on the sweet side.

I helped my self to generous portions of Muskox, Reindeer (Caribou), halibut and shrimps.  Delicious.  The Reindeer (I tried not to think of Rudolph) was served as a spicy stew.  The Muskox was tender and a little bit sweet.  there wasn't any seal meat this time around but I have tasted it before.  I would describe it as being a little bit like liver.

The view from the patio is superb.  If you find yourself in this beautiful town, check out the buffet at Hotel Uummmannaq. M-m-m-mannaq!

Shortly after lunch we started the hike to Santa's cabin.  We believe that we set a record for the number of participants on the hike.  Check out the long line of colourfully clad hikers!

We arrived in Ukkusisat in the early evening.  The gentleman pictured to the right is Hans Petersen.  He is 82 years old and is the oldest person in the village. As per usual, we invited people from the settlement to visit us on the ship where they entertained us with singing and dancing.  They also modelled some of their native clothing.

Then, at approximately 21:00 we all jumped into the Polar Cirkle boats and visited the settlement. There are 150 people living in Ukkusisat so it doesn't take too long to wander about the village.  There was coffee and cakes served in the town hall.

At 22:30 the last Polar Cirkle boats headed back to the ship.  There were lots of hugs and goodbyes.  These people are our friends.  It was our last trip to Ukkusisat for this season. It will be a year before we see them next.

Oh. You were wondering about the hardships I had to endure today.  I was so stuffed from the buffet that I could hardly drag my butt over the rocks on the  hike to Santa's cabin.  Ugh!

The Fellow In The Orange Jacket

Steffen is the fellow in the orange jacket.  He is a member of the Expedition Team and an excellent geologist. Of course I will deny that I ever said or wrote that. Steffen is very happy at the moment because he likes the rocks upon which he is standing.  Look at everyone else in the photo.  They are photographing the beautiful waterfall just behind him.  If you talk to Steffen he will tell you all about the beautiful ancient lava flow that the waterfall is covering up.  If you ask him about the colourful stratified cliffs that tower over Qeqertarsuaq he will tell you all about ancient volcanic eruptions and that each layer represents a period of volcanic activity.  The dark layers being basalt and the lighter red layers volcanic ash with high iron content. 

But everyone knows the dark layers are chocolate cake and the red layers are strawberry filling.

Everyone had a really great day today.  How could you not?  Qerqertarsuaq is very beautiful. The weather was perfect.  We started our landing operations at 09:00.  Almost everyone joined us on a hike to the Valley of the Winds.  Our hike ended at the waterfall (just behind Steffen).  Everyone was free to hike back to the ship on their own, at their own pace.  As usual there were lots of icebergs just off shore and a few bergy bits strewn along the beach. 

We heaved anchor at 15:45.  Our late afternoon was filled with lectures about Greenland and briefings about tomorrow’s activities.  Both fin and humpback whales were spotted in the afternoon.  We cruised through Disko Bay and around the time of the fashion show (22:00) entered Vaigat sound.  The fashion show was a lot of fun.  Clothing from the gift shop was modeled by the ship’s crew, officers (including the Captain!) and the Expedition Team.

Right now we are heading west, into a beautiful warm sunset

Nothing But Blue Skies From Now On

Blue skies smiling at me.  Nothing but blue skies do I see.  Or so sings Willy Nelson.  We can only hope for more blue skies like today. 

This is the way to kick off a trip.  This morning, bright and early, we cruised through a rather thick sea fog.  Fog often collects when warm summer air meets cold ocean air on wind free days.  And just as often the fog is confined to the sea. That is exactly what happened today.  When we approached Sisimiut the fog parted in a rather dramatic fashion revealing the picturesque town.  It was almost as if we had planned it.

Shortly after 11:00 the 1st Polar Cirkle boats headed to the pier.  The 1st people off the ship today were those going on the long hike to the top of Palaasip Qaqqa mountain.  I climbed up Palaasip Qaqqa a couple of weeks ago and I can tell you that it's a fairly tough hike and I can also tell you the stupendous view from the top is worth the effort.  The 1st image shows the view of Sismiut (you can see the entire town) and the 2nd photo is of the hardy gang that made it to the top.

A lot of people also went on a guided hike to Tele Island where we saw the ruins from Thule people dating back to about 1650.  There are also a couple of Thule graves which look very much like stone cairns.  In one of the graves you can see the bones of the person that was buried there.  The graves are very typical of that time period.  They are built close to the ocean with a view of the sea.  People were not buried in a prone position but rather more in a foetal position.

There were many jellyfish visible today.  Most of them were Lion's Mane jellyfish.  There was a Sherlock Holmes story entitled, The Adventure of the Lion's Mane  where a professor is killed by the sting of this jellyfish.  The sting can be painful but it is not enough to kill someone.  Lion's Manes are the largest species of jellyfish.  I photographed this one when I was standing on the dock.  It was just beneath the surface.

Well, just as Willie sings it, let's hope that there is "nothing but blue skies from now on".

When You First Touched Greenland

Let’s talk about your vacation in Greenland for just a moment.

This photograph represents a very special moment in time. It’s the moment you first touched Greenland.  You must have been excited.  This is a big trip to a very exotic destination.  Perhaps you had been dreaming about going to Greenland a for a very long time. And now the dream has become reality.

You had a hundred questions going through your mind: 

What will the people in Greenland be like?  

What will the landscape look like? 

You were curious about the ship, the food, your cabin, the people working on the ship. 

You asked yourself, “will I get sea sick? Will it be really cold?  Will I see an iceberg?”

Now the great mystery of your vacation is being unravelled moment by moment. 

When you arrived at the Kangerlussuaq airport you were greeted by members of the expedition team.  Outside there were three buses waiting to take you to the head of Kangerlussuaq Fjord.  After a twenty minute ride through the rugged hills paralleling the fjord the bus crested a hill and there lay MS Fram!  Another wave of excitement flooded through you.

Now it was time to put on a life jacket and your first ride in a Polar Cirkle boat. You checked in on deck three, were issued I.D. cards and escorted to your cabin.  Now there was time to investigate your new home.  Soon there were lots of lost people wandering about!

At 20:30 everyone attended a compulsory safety drill. Right after the drill we met the Captain in the Observation Lounge on deck seven.  The Captain gave a welcome speech and introduced some of the officers and the Expedition Team.

The moment you first touched Greenland was very special, but the most special moment will be when you are touched by Greenland.

There Aren't Any Vuvuzela's Here.

We had plenty to do in the morning and afternoon while we headed south on our way to Itilleq.  There was a full plate of lectures in German, English and Danish.  There were briefings about the plan for tomorrow.  You could take a stroll on deck, go to the gym, have a sauna, enjoy the Observation lounge on deck seven or just do nothing at all.  

We dropped anchor at 15:30.  By 16:00 just everyone was on shore.  A crowd was beginning to gather around the soccer field in anticipation of the weekly match between Fram and Itilleq.

It's not South Africa and it's not the World Cup but here in Itilleq the beautiful game unites the world in an unlikely a place.  Today we had people from 15 different countries having a huge amount of fun playing and watching a soccer match on a small sandy pitch in the heart of the village.  The same field where a Polar Bear was shot just two months ago by the former Prime Minister of Greenland.  

It would be difficult to imagine a more diverse group of people. There are no millionaire spoiled athletes here.   Just everyone having fun.  No one cares who you are, or what you do, or even if it's the first time you ever kicked a ball.  Just play. Have fun.

As usual the Fram side was badly trounced.  We lost 10-4.  It turns out that soccer is a popular game in Greenland.

The crowd cheered between mouthfuls of hot coffee and delicious cakes served along the sidelines. There were no vuvuzela's here.  Just lots of cheering and clapping.

Before, after, or even during the match, there was lots of opportunity to wander around the village.  There were a few hand made crafts for sale in "the pink house".  

At 17:45 it was time for the last boat to head back to the ship.  

Right now the sky has cleared up once again.  There is a fog bank off to the starboard side.  It looks like it will be a really nice evening for cruising up Kangerlussuaq Fjord.  If it is a clear night, it will be spectacular.

The Hallelujah Icebergs Of Ilulissat

There are about four thousand dogs in Ilulissat.  There might be more dogs than people. Indeed, many settlements in Greenland have more dogs than people.  And the dogs are all the same breed.  Greenland dogs.   For the most part they live outdoors their entire lives.  Sometimes they have rudimentary shelter.  Sometimes not.  They are tough working dogs. They seem friendly enough.  Maybe some of them are friendly but petting them is sort of like playing Russian roulette.  "Don't pet the dogs" is the standard advice.  Yes, it may be wagging it's tail and looking very cute and coy with a "come pet me" wriggling body posture.  You might be fine for awhile.  If you are a dog person and can't resist, pet the puppies.

Our day was spent in Ilulissat.  Just about everyone saw the Ice Fjord (also called Kangia ).  Many people saw the fjord and the crazy amount of ice from the air.  Others saw it from the sea and still others from shore.  Today it was even more spectacular than the last time we were there.  The sea was like a perfect mirror.  You couldn't tell where the sky stopped and the water began.  Did anyone see James Cameron's movie Avatar?   The ice reminded me of the Hallelujah floating mountains in Avatar.  I know I am a bit of a geek at times but geek or not, the vista of ice was truly other worldly.  The reflections were so perfect it seemed like the gigantic icebergs were floating in the air.

The View Without A Window

I was in my cabin this afternoon admiring the view.  I don't have a window but the view is excellent.  The ship has a bow camera which is broadcast live in all cabins.  It is also broadcast on the internet. It's great.  In some ways it's better than a real window.  I don't even have to get out of bed to admire the view.  I just grab the remote and turn on my "window".  The first image is a photograph of my view.

And the view was fantastic as we plied our way through ice-laden waters on our way to Glacier Eqip Sermia. 

I arrived on the bow deck just as King Neptune arrived.  What a happy coincidence.  Neptune was on board to baptize everyone that crossed the Arctic Circle on this voyage.  In the photo my friend Ilja is being baptized by having ice-cold water poured down the back of his neck.  Ilja is a member of the expedition team and lectures on the politics of Greenland. I believe that he is a bit of a masochist as he was baptized both last week and the week before.  Or then again, maybe he's just a really good team member.

Last we week we were stymied by the ice.  It was just too thick for us to push through.  Today it was perfect.  There was still way more ice than usual.  In fact there hasn't been this much ice in this channel for about twenty-five years.  The glaciers have been hyper-active and they have created a crystalline maze for us to cruise through.  By 17:30 we had dropped anchor and revved up the Polar Cirkle boats.
I won't say another word about the weather as I'm sure you're bored with reading about it but look at the photos.  I will mention though, that the black-flies were vicious.  I waged chemical warfare against them.  Others waved their arms vigourously. Still others chose mosquito netting (probably the best option).  In the end I think the flies won as many people were chased back to the ship early.

Those poor miserable people that went back early.  They had to sit and stare at a beautiful glacier and gorgeous sunset while suffering through a specially prepared, delicious barbeque. Perhaps they eased their pain with a cocktail or a glass of wine - all the while in a fly free zone.

It was so beautiful tonight I could hardly sit still to write this blog.  I kept running outside to take more photographs.  I put in my favourite just for you.

If Life Is Moving Too Fast, Move North.

We visited Uummannaq this morning.  That's 590 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle and in the evening we went still further north to Ukkusisat.  That is very cool. 

Uummannaq is home for about 1300 people.  That's a small town by most people's standards but it is a big town in Greenland.  The 11th largest in fact.  The hustle of the city is far away.  The speed of life is slower this far north.  Much slower.  Literally.  Did you know that the speed demons living at the equator are moving at 1,670 kph due to the rotational speed of the earth?  Uummannaq moves a lot slower.  The speed of life here is a mere 571 kph.  The slugs at the north pole are moving at 1 cm/24 hours.  So if you're prone to dizziness or just want to slow down, move to the north pole.  Of course we could add in the speed of the earth as it rotates around the sun (107,278.87 kph) but since that is constant everywhere on earth it doesn't figure into the equation here.

Look at the photo for today's visit to Uummannaq.  Could the weather be better?  

No.  It couldn't.

Beautiful hardly describes the scenery.  It is something much more.  Stunning Greenland landscapes were our playground all day long.  Ha! Envious?  You have reason to be. The boat excursions to the Red Desert wove through hundreds of icebergs before arriving at a wondrous place that could best be described as a golden lunar landscape.  The hike to Santa's cabin had fantastic views of the ocean, multitudes of icebergs and multi-coloured cliffs.  The lunch at the Uummannaq hotel was a gourmet experience not to be forgotten.  All of that and more was our morning and early afternoon. And we still hadn't arrived in Ukkusisat where everything moves ever so slightly slower (further north you know).

I have mentioned before that Ukusisat is my favourite stop in Greenland.  It is really a lot of fun having everyone from the village come on Fram.  The choir is great.  There were four generations in that choir.  Well, I'm not sure how much the baby was contributing.  You could tell the folk dancers were having fun by the smiles and laughter on the dance floor.   We even got to participate. I have two left feet. Definitely not a good dancer - but maybe that makes it even more fun.

Now it's getting late.  

23:25. 

I just shot the last image for today's blog.  I know. It sucks to be us.

PS

Even though it is out of  chronological order, I had to put the little girl's picture first.

The Summer Is Waning

August seven. The summer is waning. Soon the first frost will fall and in another month the first snow flurries will fly.  There are still splashes of vivid pink from patches of Niviarsiaq the national flower of Greenland but the wildflowers are past their peak and are becoming increasingly difficult to find. 

Mushrooms were more evident and seem abundant.  There aren’t any toxic fungi in Greenland that can be mistaken as edible mushrooms.  

Crowberries were sweet and ripe for the picking. The temptation was great to fill my knapsack as we hiked on a glorious late summer day to the Valley Of The Winds.

We paused on a dark sandy beach that was strewn with bits of bergs that had washed ashore.  Further out we could see humpback whales amongst a flotilla of large icebergs. We walked by wetter areas where Arctic Cotton grass swayed in rhythm with a light cool wind.

The visibility seemed endless.  We could see the tops of the stratified cliffs that hem in the valley.  On a cloudy day you don’t know what you are missing.  We were lucky.

Soon we reached the waterfall and the turn around point of our hike.  A perfect spot to drink some water, sit and relax before making our way back into Qeqertarsuaq.  

 At approximately 16:00 we bid adieu to Qeqertarsuaq and headed north towards Uummannaq and Ukkusisat our destinations for tomorrow.  Hundreds of icebergs dotted the sea. 

What remained of our afternoon was filled with lectures and briefings about our day tomorrow.

In the evening the ship's crew, officers and expedition team entertained us with a fun fashion show.  Whew!  A very full day.