Monaco & Mushamna

Blue iceberg at Monacobreen

Trapper's cabin at Mushamna (photo ©Karsten Bidstrup)

Our stop at Monaco Glacier means cruising with the Polar Cirkel boats along a 5 km wall of ice.  Yippee!  At 09:00 we dropped the anchor and soon thereafter the Polar Cirkel boats were whisking people to the glacier.  Monaco is very active, calving huge chunks of ice on a regular basis.  As always on Fram, safety is our first priority.  Our precautionary rule for a minimum safe distance when approaching a glacier is about four times the glacier’s height.  This still allows for spectacular views of the glacial wall (terminus). The sea was crowded with icebergs and bergy bits.  We went from one iceberg to the next.  Each iceberg was completely unique.  We oh-ed, and ah-ed and photographed and admired the many shapes and the many saturated shades of translucent blue. There is nothing like cruising in ice in a small boat.  It is a lot of fun.

Old fox trap at Mushamna

In the afternoon we had a pleasant surprise.  Karin Strand, the Expedition Leader, announced an unscheduled landing at Mushamna deep in Woodfjorden!  We landed by a beautiful hunter’s cabin.  The landlord of the cabin is the Govenor of Svalbard.  The tenants vary from year to year.  Each occupant is only allowed to stay for one year with a possible option to extend for another year.  This year’s tenant’s had just vacated about three weeks ago. 

There was plenty of avian wildlife in the immediate area which included Eider Ducks, Bryants Geese, Arctic Terns, Purple Sandpipers, Red-throated Loons, Kittiwakes, Glaucous Gulls, Ivory Gulls, Parasitic Jaegers, Black Guillemots and Northern Fulmars.

Dwarf Birch at Mushamna already showing fall colour

August 6 and the wildflowers were already past their peek but here and there were bright splashes of pink Moss Campion and dashes of white Arctic Chickweed. The summer season is short and intense. The Dwarf Willow was changing colour from bright green to yellow, red and orange. It seemed like the fall was already approaching.

We also found two old fox traps.  One of them still had most of the parts.  It is a very simple device.  Heavy rocks are piled on a wooden platform which is propped up on a stick.  When a fox grabs the bait, the heavy platform falls, killing the fox and leaving the fir intact.

As we prepared to leave the beach at Mushamna, the low grey cloud cover began to drop even lower.  We lifted the anchor and sailed into the mist.  Our next stop, Ny-Ålesund. 

The Bear Necessities!

Terrain near Gravneset

Blue skies once again!  Yeehaw. When we landed at the old whaling station of Gravneset this morning the cloudy skies of yesterday had been replaced by mostly clear skies. What a difference a sunny day can make! 

Very old whaler's coffin at Ytre Norskeøya.

We started landing procedures at 09:00.  Once again we were divided into our various language groups.  Soon large groups of people were being guided across the isthmus of Gravneset.  We paused along the way to learn about some of the whaling history of the region.   This small site had been exposed to over 200 hundred years of whaling pressure. Artifacts of that period are still very much in evidence with several blubber ovens and over 130 graves of long gone whalers.

We continued on to a ridge of moraine where we had an excellent view of the surrounding landscape. Suddenly a bear was spotted in the water on the other side of the bay.  The Expedition Team paused to observe the bear.  It was soon discovered that the bear was headed directly towards our large group of people on shore.  Immediately the decision was made to head directly back to the landing site.

Perhaps the bear was curious, but for whatever reason it continued to make its way to the beach.  One of the Expedition Team fired off a loud “bang flare” to discourage the bear’s progress.  It took a second round to get the bear to change its mind and to change its course.  Meanwhile, everyone continued on back to the landing site.  We continued to keep an eye on the bear as it made its way to the north shore.  After about an hour the bear reached the distant shore.  It continued moving north and eventually vanished behind a ridge.

Phew!  What an exciting morning!

In the afternoon the weather was so good that the decision was made to attempt an unscheduled landing.  At 16:30 we headed to the beach at Ytre Norskeøya.  Another historic whaling site that had seen whaling activity for a couple of hundred years.  One of the first things we noticed was the large number of Arctic Terns in the air and on the ground.  The chicks were all off the nest and the protective parents were keeping a watchful eye on their offspring.  We kept our hike close to the water’s edge in order to disturb the Terns as little as possible.  Nevertheless, once in a while, people found the air above their heads alive with a chattering, screeching, angry, feathery parent!

Once we passed the nesting area the Terns settled down.  Further along the shoreline we found several very old whaler’s graves.  It was a strange feeling to peer into the exposed coffins and contemplate what the whaler’s life might have been like.  We could see bone fragments and in one coffin we could see a skull.  Eerie.

We continued up a ridge to a really nice vantage point where we could enjoy nearly a 360˚ view.  After about an hour we made our way back to the landing site.

It was already a very full day but it was not over yet.  We continued on to the most northerly point of our journey.  We arrived at 80˚ North and Moffen Island at 23:30.

Even though it was a late hour this was cause for a quiet celebration on the bow deck!

Too Much Ice To Get To Barentsburg!

Sea ice in Adventfjorden

At last! Our Arctic adventure has well and truly started.  Most of us stayed in a hotel in Longyearbyen last night.  This morning we attended a comprehensive briefing on what to expect in the coming days on Fram.  Following the briefing we had a nice lunch in the hotel and then a city tour by motor coach which included stops at the museum and gallery.

Northern Fulmar in Isfjorden

At 16:30 our motor coaches brought us to our new home-away-from-home.  Fram.  The check-in process ran quite efficiently. It was amazing to see how quickly we all were issued photo I.D.’s and cabin key cards.  Right after checking in we were given gortex-type blue jackets on deck four.

At 18:00 we left the pier and headed out of Advent fjord and then on into Isfjorden.  We were due to arrive in Barentsburg, a Russian coal mining town at 20:30.  At About 19:00 the Expedition Leader, Karin Strand, announced that there was far too much ice for us to be able to reach Barentsburg on time.  Indeed, if we attempted to go to Barentsburg it would also throw our schedule off for the following day at Gravneset.

Cruising in Isfjorden

It is ironic. We had all wished very hard to see lots of ice. It was one of the main reasons for coming to the Arctic.  Perhaps we had wished too hard.  Now the very thing we wanted to see was preventing us from going where we wanted to go.

Since we could no longer go to Barentsburg we held the saftey drill at 20:30.  Right after the drill all of those people that wanted to take advantage of the excellent rubber boots we have on Fram were able to go to decks 2 and 3 where they could try the boots on.  They were then issued the boots which are theirs to keep for the remainder of the cruise.

By that time it was 22:00 and the day was winding down.  The ship is now heading for the old whaling site of Gravneset.  We are due to arrive at 09:00 tomorrow morning.

Virgohamna, Ny-Alesund & A Bear

The hike at Virgohamna

This morning, overcast skies enveloped the rocky terrain in soft shadowless light.  The grey clouds added to the essentially monochrome nature of the land.  A cold light rain was falling as we set foot on a rocky beach not far from the historic site of Virgohamna.  But what is a little rain to grand adventurers such as ourselves?  Ha!  We laugh at the rain. 

Polar Cirkel boat on the way back from Ny-Alesund

We had an option to go on a long hike or to join a shorter beach walk.  In either case we were divided into language groups.  Once everyone from our group was on shore we set off to go exploring.  Each group was accompanied by two members of the Expedition Team.  All of the Expedition Team were carrying high-powered rifles. It was an effective reminder that we were in the home of the Polar Bear. 

Ny-Alesund

We soon came to a vantage point where we enjoyed a nice view of the old whaling station and the famous site where the Swedish Engineer, Salomon August Andrée launched his hot air balloon in 1897 in a tragic attempt to reach the north pole.  We were not able to go right down to Virgohamna as it is protected as an important historic site.  In the distance, we could see not only historic rubble left from the whalers and the aviators, but at least 9 nine Harbor Seals that were hauled out on the opposite shore.

We really had the feeling of exploring.  This was the first time the Expedition Team had taken this particular route.  We were led on a large circuit which eventually took us back to the beach.  The beach was littered with small pink comb jellies (ctenophores) and bits of flotsam and jetsam.  A ten minute stroll brought us back to the waiting Polar Cirkel boats.

Shortly after 10:30 we were all back on the Fram a little damp but exhilarated.  And then, just like the intrepid explorers that tread this land before us, we doffed our gortex and polar fleece layers and headed to the sauna, the jacuzzi, the Bistro and the bar where we could admire the scenery in comfort.

At about 12:20 the announcement came for which we had all been waiting.  A Polar Bear had been spotted!!  Captain Rune Andreasen adroitly stopped Fram and cautiously steered the ship  towards a large adult bear which lay sleeping peacefully in the grass and moss.  In fact it was sleeping so soundly we began to wonder if the bear was sleeping or...  But after a few minutes it raised its massive head and blearily peered in our direction.  What a wonderful sight!  The bear was not bothered at all by our presence.  It rolled over onto its back and then seemed to go asleep once again.  For many people this one ursine encounter was enough to make their trip.

At approximately 16:45 we arrived at the pier in Ny-Ålesund.  The sky was still largely overcast but the rain clouds had moved on.  We were guided through the most northerly settlement in the world in our various language groups.  The Expedition Team informed us about the fascinating history of Ny-Ålesund.  There was the tragic history of the coal mine and the accidents that had happened there.  And there was the equally tragic history of Arctic exploration and the race to the North Pole by air.  It was a saga of heroes, villains and victims.

The near history and the future of Ny-Ålesund is much cheerier.  It has now entered an age of international cooperation for Arctic research.  At any given time there are at least ten nations conducting environmental research there.  The winter population is about 30 but when spring arrives more researchers from various nations migrate to the north.  The population swells to around 150.

By 20:00 everyone was back on Fram.  We cruised the front of the glaciers at the end of the fjord and then turned our bow to head back to Longyearbyen.

Our Arctic Adventure Begins

Adventfjord - on the way to Barentsburg

The Arctic is many things.  The Arctic can mean cold temperatures and a lot of ice in the forms of sea ice, ice sheets, glaciers and icebergs.   The Arctic can be a remote unspoiled wilderness with a never-setting sun or long dark nights with a never-rising sun. It is an opportunity to get closer to nature, to fill your lungs with pure fresh air, maybe for the first time in your life. On Fram we intend to give you as many of those opportunities as we can.  We will put you in places where you will have an opportunity to see your first Polar Bear, or a Reindeer or an Arctic Fox. We can't guarantee wildlife but there are some things that we can promise. We can promise you lots of ice and majestic scenery.  We can promise that if you stay up late and the sky is clear that you will see the midnight sun. We can promise to do our best to give you the best Arctic experience that we can deliver.

Barentsburg

This morning we joined the ship at 11:45.  The scene at the harbour was quite beautiful. Fram was at the pier. Behind Fram, sea fog pulsed in and out of Adventfjord revealing and then concealing hundreds of ice floes.  Tall mountains rose above the fog and ice.

At 15:00 we cast off our lines and turned the bow towards Barentsburg. The fog had mostly dissipated but the sea ice was still rather heavy.  It meant travelling at much-reduced speeds in order to weave our way through the ice safely.

Kittiwakes nesting in Barentsburg

Barentsburg kindergarten

The reduced speed meant that we didn't arrive in Barentsburg until 18:00.  The hotel staff, ever co-operative, moved dinner back until 20:00 and the restaurant remained open until 22:30 - which meant we could explore the Russian coal mining town to our heart's content!  We started off our visit by breaking into language groups and then meeting up with our local guide.
Barentsburg is still a very active coal mine.  Mining has been going on here since 1916 when it was originally owned and operated by the Dutch.  It has gone through several changes since that time.  It was nearly completely destroyed in W.W. II and then rebuilt in the 50's.  It was a sought after place to work from the 60's through the 80's.

To walk through here is a unique, fun experience.  Many of the buildings are abandoned and in various states of decay.  Other buildings have beautiful murals and are painted in gay colours.  There are interesting examples of Russian architecture everywhere you look.  It was like being in an occupied Russian ghost town.
At 19:30 the local people put on a terrific Folkloric show in the culture house.  The costumes, singing and dancing were very good.  All-in-all it was a very entertaining show.
By 21:00 we were all back on the ship.  Once again, Fram nosed eagerly out into the ice.  Fram was built for this.  She was conceived, designed and built for polar exploration. 

Ny Ålesund

Ny-Ålesund in the distance

We arrived in Ny Ålesund at 08:00. The small settlement was originally established as a coal mining operation.  After the collapse of the coal market in 1957 and a series of serious mining accidents the mines were closed in 1962. Since 1964 Ny-Ålesund has been a centre for international Arctic Research and environmental monitoring.  More than 10 countries conduct research here.  During the summer months the population swells from 30 to 150 people.

Exploring Ny-Ålesund

It was a cool morning with overcast skies, excellent weather to go for a short walk guided by the Expedition Team through town.  as we strolled through the village we learned not only about the mining history but also about the great aviators and explorers that are an important part of the history of Svalbard and Arctic Exploration.  Our tour ended at the mooring mast that Amundsen,  Nobile and Ellsworth used to tether their large airships which they would use to reach the north pole.

Old locomotive that was used to haul coal in Ny-Ålesund

Wildlife was in abundance.  Just behind town we could see reindeer grazing.  Around the outskirts of the settlement we saw lots of sea birds including nesting Arctic Terns and one exquisite Ivory Gull.  Certainly one of the most beautiful gull species in the world.

There was ample opportunity to explore the museum, the information centre, to write post cards and to splurge on souvenirs in the gift shop.

Most northerly post office in the world

At 11:00 we were all back on board.  We cast off our lines and began the journey back to Longyearbyen. 

In the afternoon the lecture series continued with talks on ice, polar explorers and whales.  The skies continued to be overcast and the seas were calm.  It was a perfect day to relax and reflect upon everything we had seen and done so far while exploring Svalbard. 

Monaco Glacier and Moffen Island

Sometimes the best thing about Expedition Cruising is simply to jump into a small boat and go exploring.  On a largish vessel like Fram one might not think that would be a possibility, but it most definitely is!  This morning at 09:00 we were anchored off of a very large and beautiful glacier called Monaco Glacier (Monacobreen).  At 09:30 we put the Polar Cirkel boats in the water and went for a cruise along the glacier face.  We cruised along the entire terminus of the glacier.  Five kilometres of brilliant blue ice!

Polar Cirkel boats pushing an ice floe away from the tenderpit 

Along the way our guides talked about icebergs and glaciers and even about the birds we could see all around us.  There were Kittiwakes and Glaucous Gulls in abundance as well as Black Guillemots, Arctic Terns, Northern Fulmars and the occasional Arctic Skua.  A lot of the birds fed along the face of the glacier where the fresh water outflow met the salty sea water.  Large and small chunks of ice would occasionally calve.  When this happened the birds would flock to where the ice disturbed the water.

Monaco Glacier and Polar Cirkel boat, Spitsbergen

Closeup of a small iceberg with Monaco Glacier in the background

Walruses at Moffen Island Spitsbergen (Photo ©Karsten Bidstrup)

In the afternoon we set our course for Moffen Island which would be the most northerly point of our journey. It would take several hours to to get there so we used the opportunity to slot in several lectures on ice and geology.

Moffen Island is a protected nature reserve situated just above 80˚ N.  That is very far north indeed.  To quote a friend of mine, “if you had a globe of the earth you would need to look under the brass cap at the top to find Moffen Island.”

Shortly after 17:00 we approached the tiny island. It was barely above sea level and seemed no more than a sand bar.  However, this low, flat piece of sand and gravel is very important as a Walrus haul-out and is also an important nesting site for Arctic Terns.  Indeed, we counted between sixty and seventy Walruses in three groups packed tightly together.

Well! This was a cause to celebrate.  Not only did we have excellent views of one of the most extraordinary of all pinnipeds but we had crossed 80˚ North at the same time!  

Attacking Arctic Terns

Arctic Tern,  Gravneset Spitsbergen

As we stepped on the beach of Gravneset, deep in Magdalene Fjord it was easy to see why this was one of the most visited sites in Svalbard. The beach was soft sand in some areas and cobblestone in others.  Beautiful jagged mountains rose steeply all around the bay.  Each mountain seemed to support one or more glaciers.  It was impressive scenery

Polar Swim in Gravneset  Spitsbergen

We set out to explore the historic whaling site in language groups.  Each group was accompanied by two members of the Expedition Team that were equipped with radios, flare guns and high-powered rifles.  The rifles were a constant reminder that this is very much the home of Polar Bears.  While we all hoped to see an Ice Bear, the biggest threat at this site today were the protective Arctic Terns nesting on the beach.  Chattering, clicking birds swooped down at our heads in an effort to drive us away from their nests and chicks.  Our leaders instructed us to simply raise a gloved hand over our head.  The birds would attack the highest point.  Their beaks weren’t much of a threat to a gloved hand.

The view from a hilltop near Virgohamna

Gravneset had been used by whalers for over 200 years.  Over that long period of time many whalers died and were buried on a small hill in the centre of the beach.  It was a somber reminder of the tough life they must have endured.

An hour was ample time to explore the area, stretch the legs and get a great breath of fresh air.  Some of the hardier (?) souls braved the frigid water and went for a Polar Dip.  Br-r-r!

Later in the day, at 16:30 we landed on a remote rocky beach opposite to the historic site of Virgohamna.  We were organized into language groups once again and then set off across the island towards Virgohamna.  We were soon at the top of a modest hill where we enjoyed a fantastic view of the old whaling station and the famous site where the Swedish Engineer, Salomon August Andrée launched his hot air balloon in 1897 in a tragic attempt to reach the north pole.  We then headed a little closer to Virgohamna where, in the distance, we could see not only historic rubble left from the whalers and the aviators, but at least nine Harbor Seals that were hauled out on the opposite shore.

All-in-all we spent about two hours exploring the area.

Today had been a fantastic introduction to Spitsbergen!

We Flew Into A Cold Arctic Dream.

As we approached Longyearbyen in Spitsbergen the views from the aircraft were like magic.  The long, warm, never-ending rays of the midnight sun brushed deep long shadows across a stark, frigid landscape.  This was the true home of the Ice Bear and the inspiration for fantastic stories.  It is a harsh environment that creates heroes and legends. And it is beautiful. It is where we have come to live out part of our own dreams.

Our Arctic Dream started in Longyearbyen, the administrative centre for Svalbard. Before joining the Fram we set off on a tour of the mining area and then visited a museum and gallery.  At about 16:30 we went down to the small harbour and boarded the ship. Soon we were checked-in, issued our ship’s I.D. cards and shown to our rooms.  There, beside our cabin doors, was our luggage, already delivered!

At 18:20 we cast off our lines and carefully threaded our way through the ice-laden waters of Adventfjorden and then on into Isfjorden.

At 20:30 we all attended a mandatory safety drill.

In the late evening we cruised through mile after mile of ice.  At times we were enshrouded in heavy sea fog making creating a dream-like atmosphere.  But ice and fog makes for tricky navigation. It always means that our speed is reduced to whatever is appropriate to travel safely. As the Captain says, “safety is always our number one priority”. 

Sea Ice

Longyearbyen welcome us with so much sea ice that we have to turn north. We continued to Krossfjord and had some good looks at the glaciers there. Lilliehøøkbreen among one of them. The day after, we went ashore on Ny Ålesund. There we learned a lot about the town today. All the science that they work on. The different countries that operate here in this fabulous place. But we also learned about the old days with the mining.


In the afternoon we continued to Kongsfjorden and went ashore on Gravnestet and had a small hike. Here we had a chance to we Rose gull that is a rare bird. But also when we exit the fjord we saw a female polar bear with a baby.

In the evening we went for Moffen and 80 degree north. There was a small heard of male walrus here. And we stayed in the midnight sun for an hour. Today we again go for Longyearbyen and now we need to get in. because the cruise is ending and the guests will leave tonight. If we have the chance we will land at Skansebukta. But only if we have the time. It all comes to how much sea ice there is in Is fjord. We end up with barbeque on deck tonight entering and slowly cruising in the ice fjord toward Longyearbyen.

 

Seadays on our way to Spitsbergen

Today we have a minute's silence in memory of those who died in the terrible attack in Oslo and utøya.

Yesterday we had a full day of lectures and learned lots around the area we are sailing to. We ended the eavning with the traditional fashion show. This morning we continued with the talks and we will go more into the flora and fauna on Spestbergen. We will arrive in Longyearbyen later this afternoon. This two seadays we just had the most amazing weather. Calm sea, just a little wind and now it also seams to be sunny.

Jan Mayen

Finally it’s the day for visiting Jan Mayen. This very unusual little Island with the volcano and its glaciers. Onboard we have lectures that been working on Jan Mayen during their time as researchers. We first had a day full of lecture before our visit Jan Mayen. That made us more curious about this place. And we also knew a lot about the basics about the Island.

Five a clock we prepared for the landing. It’s a beautiful day with almost no wind. We arrange to get every guest ashore. We first hade a visit to the main station and then further down to the weather station were we got information about the station and the things that they do research about and information about how the station is functioning and the main task with this weather station. Both building - stations had flag at half mast for the tragic attack that hit their country.

Some of us went on a longer walk together with our lectures that earlier had their own research on Jan Mayen. So we really had a god opportunity to learn about this island and about the unic place. And also about the volcano and the glaciers around it.

After a couple of hours we went back to the ship and started to go for Longyearbyen. During our way out we also had the chance to see the volcano as the clouds eases up. This really was over our expectations. On our way out with FRAM we also spotted a couple of Minky whales playing around. A lot of birds following the ship on our way north…

We leaving Jan Mayen in a beautiful weather.
The Vulcano and the top of it with the sunny sky.

Condolences

Yesterday evening we got the horrible news from Norway. We followed the news and the guests send there condolences. Onboard this Norwegians ship with a majority of Norwegian guests this strike us all very hard. We arrange a table for the condolences. The thought goes to all the families and the country of Norway.

The seaday

A day at sea and the weather is still with ous. This day has been a day with alot of wildlife. Dolphines, humpback whales, fulmars, kittiwake an a lot of other kind of birds.

We learned a lot about Jan Mayen as a vulcanic island, about the golf stream and about plate tectonic. And we are ready for more. The forcast looking good. Hope for the best tomorrow.