"We Saw A White Beare"

“The 12^th of June in the morning, wee saw a white beare, which wee rowed after with our boate, thinking to cast a rope about her necke; but when wee were neare her, shee was so great that wee durst not doe it.”

Willem Barents’ journal entry from his 1596 voyage.

Today was a rather special day in our voyage in the Arctic for several reasons: 

1. We reached our furthest point north: 81˚29’00” N (Yippee!).
2. We found the pack ice and cruised along the pack (very cool).
3. We found a beautiful big male Polar Bear in the pack ice almost right away (double yippee!).
4. We saw many Harp Seals and a few Bearded Seals in the open pack ice.
5. We all went for a cruise in the Polar Cirkel boats in the open pack ice (fantastic!)
6. It was an absolutely beautiful day. Clear blue skies and no wind.

We went to bed last night knowing that the ice charts showed the edge of the pack ice a little further north than what we could realistically reach.  Therefore it was a very pleasant surprise this morning when the announcement came from the bridge that ice could be seen on the horizon.  As we approached the pack ice, we could see many Harp Seals along the ice edge and in openings in the pack.  Very soon a Polar Bear was spotted roaming along the edge of the ice.  The Captain slowly maneuvered Fram closer to the bear.  We could see the bear jumping from one ice floe to the next.  At times it would lie down and then roll luxuriously in the snow, a behaviour which Polar Bears often indulge in after swimming.  Soon the bear noticed Fram sneaking up on it, but it didn’t seem very concerned.  It lay on the ice for awhile, stretching, yawning, rolling about and then it leisurely got up and slowly strolled away from the ship, deeper into the pack ice.  Everyone had ample opportunity to great views of the bear.

At 12:30 we dropped the Polar Cirkel boats into the water.  With clear skies and no wind, the conditions for cruising in the ice were perfect.  It was magical.  We were in the home of the Polar Bear. 

After a while our driver stopped and turned the engine off. It was a strange and beautiful environment.  It was wonderful to just sit quietly and listen.  The only sounds were those of the slapping of waves against ice floes and the occasional bumping and grating noises of the ice.  It was quiet and peaceful. But as we have seen throughout the summer, cloudy days are more common than warm sunny days.  Picture a few weeks from now when a snowy gale comes screaming through here with 50 knot winds. Ursus Maritimus belongs here, we don’t.  It is as comfortable in a cold windy snow bank as we are in the jacuzzi on Fram. This is a place that, were we left on our own, that same cute and cuddly bear would eat us, or we would quickly die from exposure. 

Swimming At 80˚... That's Not the Temperature!

Flat calm.  Those words are a balm. It means life on the ship is a lot easier.  It means the decks are horizontal and they will stay that way. It means the water in the jacuzzi stays in there.  It means the soup boiling in the galley will stay in the pot until served.  It means walking in a straight line unless you’ve been in the Observation Lounge too long.  It means breakfast stays where it belongs.  Generally while cruising in Svalbard we have calm seas.  If you’re thinking of coming with us in Greenland or Svalbard you don’t have to be too concerned about sea sickness.

This morning at 09:30 we met in the Observation Lounge where the Captain gave a short welcome speech and introduced us to key members of the ship.  We toasted the start of our voyage with a glass of champagne.  Then it was the Expedition Leader, Karin Strand’s turn, to introduce her staff.

While all of the introductions were going on we enjoyed a panoramic view of the superb scenery in Kongsfjorden on our approach to Ny-Ålesund. The flat calm sea mirrored the surrounding mountains and glaciers.  It was a beautiful morning.

At 10:00 we walked down the gangway and assembled on the pier in language groups.  As soon as everyone was gathered, we were lead on a short guided tour of Ny-Ålesund by the Expedition Team.  After the tour, we had lots of time to explore on our own. Many people took advantage of the world’s most northerly post office to send a few post cards. There is also an excellent museum depicting the history of the mining era in Ny-Ålesund and a really good information centre with interactive displays.

At 13:00 the gangway was raised and Fram departed Ny-Ålesund. At the same time the Expedition Team organized two “boot rental shops” on decks two and three.  Anyone that wanted could rent a pair of the ship’s excellent Muck Boots for the duration of the cruise for a small fee.  At 14:30 we all attended a mandatory safety drill outside on deck five.

We enjoyed really excellent scenic cruising in the afternoon and were also able to attend a couple of lectures.  At 17:30 we dropped the anchor in Trinity Harbour.  This morning had been completely overcast but now there were blue patches of sky showing.  The glaciers and mountains surrounding our landing site at Gravneset took it in turns to be bathed in sunlight.  Speaking of bathing, many people went for a popsicle plunge.  The beach at Gravneset is beautiful soft sand.  Anyone crazy enough, er... brave enough, to go for a dip, has no fear of stepping on sharp rocks.  You can get in and out of the water in about a nanosecond.  I bet it still felt like an eternity.

The Expedition Team stationed themselves at key points of interest at this historic site.  The site was manned from the point of view of monitoring for Polar Bears but the Team was readily available to dispense information about the centuries of whaling that took place here or to answer any questions anyone might have regarding the geology or the biology of the area.

The hotel staff set up a mini-bar on the beach with a selection of hot and cold beverages available.  I am sure it was a welcome tonic to the crazy, (oops) I mean  enthusiastic swimmers.

Turnover Days

Turnover days. Not the Sarah Lee type of apple turnover but the passenger ship sort of day when the people from the previous trip leave and the people from the new trip arrive.  It’s a busy day for us on Fram.  All of the cabins have to be stripped of towels and bedding, cleaned and re-supplied.  The galley takes on new provisions particularly fresh produce.  The ship takes on fuel. Every department on Fram is busy preparing for the new voyage.  Phew! It’s a lot of work.  Generally we have less than eight hours to make the ship completely ready for our new guests.  But we manage every single time.

Pier in Barentsburg

Your first day when you join the ship is generally pretty busy too.
You have to check out of the hotel and leave your luggage in a secure room.  You have the information session in the morning.  Then lunch.  Then right after lunch there is a nice three hour tour of Longyearbyen.  That brings us to 16:30 when you are finally brought to the harbour and board Fram.  And we are ready for you!  (why did you think you had that three hour tour?  ;^)

Happy smiling crew members greet you as you board the ship on deck three.  At reception you are issued a ship I.D. card and your cabin key card and then escorted to your cabin where your luggage has arrived ahead of you. 

Weather proof blue jackets are handed out to everyone by the Expedition Team on deck four in the café.  Many people choose that time to register their credit cards at reception.  Before you know it, the dining room is open and you are treated to the first of many excellent meals prepared by chef Jan Olé and his incredible team in the galley.  I never really thought about it before, but it’s an all male crew in the galley.  They are a great bunch of guys and are all expert at their jobs.

One of the many colourful billboards in Barentsburg!

Here’s a buffet tip for you.  The dinner plates are really large. Be careful.  By the end of the voyage you may have to loosen your belt by  a notch or two.  And please don’t hesitate to have a really delicious dessert at lunch and at dinner.  They are all low cal’ desserts.  If you believe that, I have some property you might be interested in buying.

At approximately 20:00 we pulled up alongside the dock in Barentsburg. Once the gangway was secured on deck two we assembled on the pier in language groups.  We then proceeded up the 252 steps to the beautiful Barentsburg theatre where we were entertained by a fabulous show of Russian folk dancing and singing.

Is it a hovercraft or a spaceship?
Playground in Barentsburg.

After the show we met again in language groups and enjoyed a tour of the highlights of Barentsburg led by a local Russian guide.

By 23:00 we were all back on board, tired but exhilarated by all of the new experiences and adventure of the day.    

Alkehornet, Skansebukta & A BBQ!

The white cliffs of Alkehornet

The triangular white cliff face of Alkehornet is unmistakeable.  To some, the cliffs resemble the shape of a large horn.  It is the site of one of the world's largest colonies of Little Auks, hence the name Alkehornet.  At this time of year the Little Auks have already gone out to sea.  There were still hundreds of raucous Black-legged Kittiwakes flying about and perched high up on the cliff face. 

Alkehornet framed by the window of an
old ruined trapper's hut.

We were free to roam around a huge area.  The Expedition Team was stationed around the landing site at key spots for the interpretation of the history, geology and biology of the location and also to keep a watchful eye out for bears.

Small ship wreck on the beach at Skansebukta

There has been a large herd of approximately thirty Reindeer here over the summer.  Since this is a fairly heavily visited site it is not surprising that the Reindeer have become habituated to the presence of people.  It was often possible to approach the Reindeer within a few metres without disturbing them.  They were all in fantastic shape getting ready for the leaner times in the winter.  Right now the vegetation around Alkehornet is still lush and green. 

Our next landing was not scheduled until 18:30 which meant there was lots of time to attend some lectures in the afternoon.

Even though the second landing of the day was a late landing, no one missed the opportunity to go on shore in Spitsbergen one last time.  

I keep writing that the scenery at each landing site is impressive, stunning, amazing, awesome.  Pick your adjective.  The fact of the matter is, I'm not exaggerating!  The cliffs on both sides of the fjord are stupendous.  Really impressive.  It is also the site of another large seabird colony.  Northern Fulmars, Black-legged Kittiwakes and Puffins busily fly to and from the cliffs.  There is a beautiful beach for a leisurely stroll.  It was also possible to hike way up to the bottom of the vertical cliff face.  Hidden beneath the touring cliffs was a beautiful little gem of a waterfall.  About thirty people made the arduous climb to the waterfall and were rewarded with a spectacular view.

Meanwhile, back on the ship, the hotel staff had prepared a delicious bbq for everyone on deck 7 at the stern of the vessel.  All those that had hiked to the waterfall could have an extra dessert guilt free!

Yup.  It had been a very long day but what a great way to wrap up our Arctic adventure.  We can all sleep in when we get home!

Ytre Norskeøya and Gravneset

The cloud layer was so low and substantial this morning you felt as if you might bump your head as you walked about the shore at Ytre Norskeøya.  Ralf, our tallest Expedition Team member was convinced it was fog and not cloud.  All a question of perspective I guess.  Nevertheless the air was damp and chilly.  The pervasive low cloud rendered the rocky landscape in soft shadowless tones of greys, greens and browns.  The heavy atmosphere seemed fitting for this particular location.  The northwest corner of Svalbard  saw some of the heaviest whaling activity in the archipelago. At Ytre Norskeøya there are the remains of nine blubber ovens and 165 whalers.  While there weren’t any shadows walking the land today, one could feel the presence of the whalers still stirring their giant copper pots of boiling whale oil.  It took little imagination to picture an industrious scene of slaughter and hardship driven by commerce. Still, it was difficult to identify with the lives of men from 300 years ago.  I couldn’t help wondering what will people think of us 300 years hence? Undoubtedly we will appear vastly more primitive to future generations than the whalers do to us.

The visibility improved slowly throughout the landing. We enjoyed a great hike to a prominent view point where we could overlook the whaler’s final resting point.  Far below we could see the Polar Cirkel boats busily shuttling people to and from the ship.  While we were on shore the wind picked up.  It was a wet and bumpy ride back to the ship.

Beautiful evening light at Gravneset

While we cruised towards our next landing site, rays of sunshine punched blue holes through the cloud.  What a difference.  In the morning everything was cold and wet.  In the afternoon it was cheery blue skies and warm sunshine for our landing at Gravneset.

Trinity harbour at Gravneset

Gravneset is also the final resting place of many whalers.  With warm sunshine and grand scenery, the atmosphere here was not as oppressive as in the morning.  We could see the Expedition Team set on the perimeter of the landing site keeping a watchful eye out for wayward bears. We were free to wander about a very large area.  Over the years visitors have disturbed the graves, taken artifacts and have left important messages such as “so-and-so was here”. To protect further damage the entire gravesite is now a protected area.

Behind the graveyard at Gravneset

Monacobreen & Jotunkjeldene

We were due to go cruising in the Polar Cirkel boats along the Monaco Glacier front at 08:30 but heavy fog and thick ice delayed our starting time.  The Expedition Team first made a trial run. Using hand held GPS’s they were able to safely navigate to the glacier and back to the ship without incident. The announcement was made that we would go ahead as planned and soon the first boats headed into the fog. Closer to the glacier the fog parted revealing all 5 kilometres of the terminus of Monaco Glacier.  As is usually the case when fog settles in, there was nary a whisper of wind.

Around 10:00 the fog lifted giving us 100% visibility once again. Monaco seemed to be calving more than usual this morning.  Many of us saw and heard large chunks of blue ice fall into the sea with a thundering splash.  Each time Kittiwakes and Glaucous Gulls would flock to the site of the fallen ice in the hopes that a tasty morsel had been stirred to the surface.

It took over four hours to give everyone a chance to go cruising through the ice but by 13:30 everyone was back on the ship and we headed off in the direction of Jotunkjeldene in Bockfjorden -  the site of our afternoon landing.

If you are a geologist you might fall in love with the land surrounding the geothermal hotsprings of Jotunkjeldene. Beautiful glaciers circle the landing site.  Deep red mountains are nearby to the east and the Sverrefjell volcano is in the south.    A variety of wild flowers were still in bloom including Golden Whitlow Grass and Svalbard poppy.  Everywhere there were signs of Reindeer and on the opposite shore we could see three Polar Bears!  Wow!  What a place.

As we departed at 20:00 Fram cruised nearer the shore with the Polar Bears to get a better look.  Sure enough, a mother bear with one cub were close enough to the shore line where we could see them whilst enjoying our dinner in the dining room!  Incredible.

Ny-Ålesund & Fjortende Julibukta

This cone of silence works!

Amazing scenery at Fjortendebukta!

Ny-Ålesund is fascinating for all sorts of reasons.  The first man to successfully reach the north pole by air left from here.  It was probably Roald Amundsen who was also the first person to reach the south pole.  I say probably because on May 9, 1926 Admiral Richard Byrd flew out of Ny-Ålesund in a small aircraft on a mission to be first to fly to the north pole.  He returned 15 hours later claiming that he had achieved just that.  Today historians are somewhat doubtful that Byrd could have been successful. Two days later Roald Amundsen & Umberto Nobile left in a giant airship also hoping to reach the north pole.  The sad thing was that they both thought that Byrd had already beaten them to the pole by air.  Amundsen and Nobile were quite possibly the first people to fly over the north pole making Amundsen the first person at the north and south poles.

The glacier calves very often at Fjortendebukta.

There are more fascinating stories forever connecting Ny-Ålesund with heroes and victims of polar exploration.  There are also sad stories linking Ny-Ålesund to the deaths of many coal miners in the 1950s and the early sixties.  It was after the last terrible mining accident where 21 miners died that the coal mines in Ny-Ålesund were shut down forever. 

Since 1964 Ny-Ålesund has been a site of world wide importance in terms of Arctic research.  There are ten nations with permanent research facilities and several more nations join in the Arctic science party in the summer.  The populations swells from 30 people in the winter to 150 in the summer.  Today we increased that number by about 230 people.  The Expedition Team guided us through the science village in small groups.  It was really great to hear about the stories of polar exploration.  Most of us walked out to the 30 metre tall mast where the giant airships were once tehered.

Many people chose to buy some souvenirs in the gift shop or to explore the museum and the information centre.  Still others went to the northern most post office in the world to put a stamp on their cards.

At 11:00 everyone was back on board and we set sail for Fjortende Julibukta.

Fjortende Julibukta is one of my personal favourite landing sites.  There is lots of wildlife with Kittiwakes, Fulmars, Puffins and Guillemots nesting high in the cliffs.  There are often Reindeer roaming about.  There Arctic Skuas and Glaucous gulls which often predate upon the other bird life. The scenery is fantastic.  There is a large, beautiful glacier at the head of the bay.  The glacier calves regularly, so there is often the booming sound of falling ice.

It has an easy beach to land on and a nice flat area to explore.  There is even a neat geological feature often referred to as the cave of silence.  A slight indentation in the slope below the seabird cliff cuts out all of the sound from the noisy birds high above.  It was like shutting a sound proof door.  Amazing!  Lots of people chose to walk right down to the glacier and up on the lateral moraine where they had excellent views of the river of ice.  I doubt that there was anyone that didn’t enjoy this landing site immensely.

Recherche Glacier

Wing of a Black-legged Kittiwake

More wind.  As has been said many times before in this blog, we don’t mind rain and we don’t mind snow. Cold temperatures are of little concern but wind, wind is not our friend.  We can land if it is raining or snowing but we can’t go on shore in high winds.  Guess what we had today? Yup.  High winds all day long.  Wind creates high seas which can make it very difficult to operate Polar Cirkel boats safely.  The little boats can handle pretty big seas but things become very, shall we say, challenging at the tender pit.  Then there would be big surf on shore.  It’s not at lot of fun getting people in and out of the boats in surf.  And then there would be the wet ride to and from shore.  Not exactly heaps of fun either.  So, sometimes like today, it is an easy call to abort a landing.  This was the second time we were blown out of Vårsolbukta in Bellsund.  We quickly realized that our planned afternoon landing at Bamsebu in Bellsund would not work either due to the direction of the wind.Plan C:  we would attempt a landing at Recherche Fjord and Recherche Glacier.  Looking at the charts it seemed very likely that this would be a sheltered spot.

As we turned into the eight kilometre long fjord, we could immediately see that this was indeed a protected site from the strong winds.

Deep inside Recherche Fjord, the sea was nearly flat calm. There was an excellent anchorage very close to a large, flat, sandy moraine area which had been left by the receding glacier.  Between the sand flats and the glacier there was a large glacial lagoon running the length of the glacier.

Since the region was so flat, the Expedition Team were able to spread out giving everyone a huge area to explore. On the west side of the landing site were beautiful tall cliffs with nesting Kittiwakes.  The moraine flats were a perfect area to do some animal tracking.  There were tracks of Reindeer, Gulls, Arctic Fox and Polar Bears everywhere, including dinner-plate sized paw prints from a rather large bear.

Like yesterday, it was hard to imagine that the previously planned landing sites would have been better than this. 

We were all back on the ship by 14:00 which left lots of time for a couple of lectures. 

While the winds continued to blow hard, it was not uncomfortable back on board Fram.  For the most part, the seas were catching us on our stern quarter just enough to imbue the ship with a pleasant lazy roll. 

Samarinvågen with Bears!

Landing site at Samarinvågen

Today was a day filled with interesting activities on board Fram and a grand adventure on shore.

Glacier beside landing site.

Starting at precisely 09:30 we held a safety drill which is compulsory for all passengers to attend.  When we heard the ship’s alarm signal 7 short followed by one long alarm we put on warm clothes and headed to our muster stations outside on deck 5.  Even numbered cabins assembled on the starboard side and odd numbered cabins went to the port side.  Every single person was checked off on a passenger muster list.  Once everyone was in place we watched a crewman demonstrate how to put on a thermal protection suit and a life vest.  We learned that the life jackets and protection suits were stored at our muster stations.

Immediately following the drill we rendezvoused in the Observation Lounge where the Captain gave a short welcome address and then introduced us to some of the key personnel of the ship.

Karin Strand, the Expedition Leader then introduced the nine members of the Expedition Team.  It was interesting to note that these nine people were from seven different countries!

Mother Polar Bear with cub

At 10:30 we were invited by boat group to try on a pair of Muck boots.  For most of the landings we would be stepping into water so a good pair of rubber boots would be essential.  Muck boots are not only water proof but they are very warm and comfortable.  The boots were available for us to rent for a modest fee.

During the morning we sailed through a gale which put a bit of a roll to the ship.  Most of the time when we sail around Spitsbergen the seas are calm, but this morning was different.  Forty knot winds were ripping the tops off of cresting waves.  The heavy winds meant that our proposed landing at Gnålodden in Hornsund would not work.  Instead we chose to go to the much more sheltered site of Samarinvågen.

It turned out to be to be the right decision for several reasons:  

1. It was a totally sheltered, calm bay. 

2. The sun came out. 

3. There was a beautiful glacier right beside the landing site.

4. Two Polar Bears were about a kilometre away, on top of the glacier!

Wow!

Everyone got a chance to go on shore to see the bears.  They were far away but with a decent set of binoculars we could see that it was a mother and what looked like a two year old cub.  At times they were playing and at other times they lay down to rest.  It was fabulous to be at a location where we could view the bears safely.  After a couple of hours the bears started moving.  The Expedition Team gathered us closer to the landing site in case the bears decided to come our way.  It seemed however that they were not very interested in us.

We proceeded with the landing in complete safety with the added excitement of bear viewing. Sometimes fate hands us a better choice!

Photo Essay of Barentsburg

Our first landing in Svalbard is very different from every other site that we visit.  Barentsburg is an active coal mining community with about 450 people from Russian and the Ukraine living here year round. 

Every once in a while I do something a little different on the blog.  Today I would like to tell the story of our visit to Barentsburg with photographs instead of words.  I hope you like them.

Manuel Marin admiring old telephone.

260 stairs to climb!

Old church in Barentsburg

Statue of Lenon in the central square

Detail of large mural on the school.

Reflection of the mural.

A Perfect Day to End Our Arctic Adventure

As we entered Tryghamna harbour the sun was shining through a high layer of scattered clouds. A mild breeze of ten knots imbued a slight chop to the sea.

We started landing procedures at 08:30. The Expedition Team set up a perimeter of Polar Bear guards. Once it was determined that weren’t any bears in the immediate area, we were given a lot of freedom to wander about on our own. But all around us and perched above, we could see the Expedition Team keeping a watchful lookout for bears.

As we walked up the grassy and moss covered slopes to the base of the bird cliffs we could see many Reindeer grazing peacefully. They did not seem at all bothered by our presence. In fact the Reindeer often approached to within a few metres of us. Many people got excellent opportunities to photograph the Svalbard Reindeer.

High above us was the pyramid shaped cliff of Alkhornet which was named for its horn-like shape and for the Little Auks that nest by the thousands in the area. The sun-lit cliff face was beautiful against the clear blue sky. August 17th and it is already getting late in the summer season in Svalbard. The little Little Auks had mostly fledged but there were still thousands of Black-legged Kittiwakes flying high above us. At times hundreds of the young birds would take off for their very first flights. A great swirling mass of birds would then head on out to sea. It was quite a sight. Large Glaucous Gulls and Great Skuas were swooping in and occasionally grabbing young Kittiwakes on the wing.

Near the end of the landing a couple of Arctic Foxes were seen roaming around the base of the cliff. This was not surprising as the foxes are known to den in this area. Wall of the nesting birds there is an abundant food supply.

At 19:00 we arrived at the stunning cliffs of Skansebukta.  Huge vertical rock faces soared over the beach. The colourful crenelated cliffs resembled the battlements of a medieval castle.  Hundreds of Northern Fulmars were nesting on high ledges.  Puffins flapped madly along the rock face.  It was obvious they were nesting here too but it was extremely difficult to spot their nests from our beach vantage point.  According to the local folks in Longyearbyen this was the second warmest day in 36 years!  It was a balmy 20C

While we were enjoying the landing at Skansebukta the hotel department was busy preparing a delcious barbeque on deck 7. 

It was a spectacular way to end our grand voyage in Spitsbergen.

.

Virgohamna and Gravneset

This morning at Virgohamna we had the option of going on a long hike or a shorter walk.  Both options were really great. The shorter walk had the possibility of a Polar Cirkel boat cruise at the end which seemed to attract a lot of people.  The long hike had a more exploratory nature with plenty of opportunities for scenic views and to great some great exercise and fresh air.  The groups were spit almost 50/50.  The long hike wound across the island to the top of a modest hill where we enjoyed a fantastic view of the old whaling station and the famous site where the Swedish Engineer, Salomon August Andrée launched his hot air balloon in 1897 in a tragic attempt to reach the north pole.  In the small bay and on the opposite shoreline we could see many Harbour Seals.  We cautiously worked our way closer, being very careful not to startle the animals.  We counted twenty seals lying on the rocks and on the shore and there were three or four more in the water.  With all of those seals lying about we couldn’t help wondering if there might be Polar Bears in the area.  While we were watching the seals, a Norwegian Armada of Polar Cirkel boats cruised onto the scene.  It was the people from the short walk on their 

Polar Cirkel boat cruise!  They were also able to get a view of the seals without disturbing them. We then continued in a big loop and eventually ended back at our starting point.  The hike took a little longer than two hours.

In the afternoon we went to Gravneset which is in Trinity Harbour in Magdalena  Fjord.  It is one of the most visited sites in all of Spitsbergen.  It has it all.  There is the fascinating history of the whalers.  There is the grim graveyard on a hillock near the landing site.  There are the four try-pot ruins where the whalers rendered the blubber in to oil.  And, there is the fantastic scenery.  As we approached our anchorage site the officers on the bridge announced that there was a Polar Bear in the distance on the opposite shore from our landing site.  The bear appeared to be sleeping on a mossy embankment. The sleeping bear was at least four kilometres from our landing site and posed no threat to us.

Gravneset had been used by whalers for over 200 years.  Over that long period of time many whalers died and were buried on a small hill in the centre of the beach.  It was a somber reminder of the tough life they must have endured.

An hour was ample time to explore the area, stretch the legs and get a breath of some of freshest air on earth.  Some of the hardier souls braved the frigid water and went for a Polar Dip.  Br-r-r!

Texas Bar and Monacobreen

Just before we landed at Texas Bar at 08:30, a Polar Bear was spotted from the by the officers on the bridge.  It was at least 2 kilometres away.  The Expedition Team went ashore and established a perimeter of spotters to keep an eye out for the bear.  The bear was far in the distance and seemed unconcerned with our presence. After about an hour the bear slowly moved away.  The lucky few first passengers ashore caught a glimpse of the bear with their binoculars.  

At this location we were free to hike around on our own within the boundaries set up by the Expedition Team.  There were several high vantages points where one could get an excellent view of the region.  There was an old trapper’s hut that we could peak into and if we wished, we could enter our names in a log book in the cabin.

The hotel department brought some snacks and hot beverages ashore which were much appreciated by everyone.

In the afternoon we went cruising in the Polar Cirkel boats in the brash ice around Monacobreen (Monaco glacier).  It was exciting to bump and crash our way through the ice in the small but very sturdy Norwegian boats.  We stopped often to photograph beautiful blue icebergs.  At one point our driver turned the engine off so we could hear the snap-crackle and pop of the ice as it melted.  The air bubbles trapped in glacial ice are under a lot of pressure.  When the ice melts the air is released with explosive force resulting in the snapping sounds we could hear.  It was really a wonderful experience to be right in the ice!   Our forty minutes on the water seemed to pass all too quickly before it was time to return to the ship.

The Best Landing So Far This Summer!

We have now been to Ny-Ålesund five times this summer.  Each time we come there are one or two Ivory Gulls on the beach close to the ship. Ivory Gulls are one of the most beautiful gulls in the world. As the name indicates they are ivory white. these beautiful birds are often found near feeding Polar Bears, waiting for there turn at the carcass.  The sky was still overcast but there were distinct patches of blue breaking through.  A definite  change in the weather was coming.

By 10:45 we had all been on a guided tour of the town.  Most of us had also walked out to the mast where Roald Amundsen and Umberto Nobile had tethered their Zeppelins in 1926 and 1928 in their quest to reach the North Pole by air.  Once everyone was back on board Fram, we did some slow scenic cruising around the fjord.  It was a gorgeous morning. The railings on deck 5 were crowded with happy people photographing and admiring the beautiful glaciers in Kongsfjorden.   

 

At 14:30 we dropped the anchor at our next destination: Fjortende Julibukta.  After a short Polar Cirkel boat ride to shore, we could hear hundreds of Black-legged Kittiwakes calling.  We had landed at the base of an amazing sea bird colony.  Looking up we could see hundreds of Kittiwakes wheeling above their nests.  Nesting in the cliffs were also Brunnich’s Mures, Common Mures and Atlantic Puffins. Glaucous Gulls, Great Skuas, Long-tailed Skuas and Arctic Skuas soared around the cliffs looking for a chance to steal a chick.

The weather continued to improve.  The sun burst through the clouds lighting up the mountains and glaciers in the background.  It was the most beautiful evening we had experienced all summer in Spitsbergen.  At the landing site, most people walked down the boulder strewn beach towards the glacier front.  Lots of loud cracking and booming erupted from the glacier as large chunks of ice calved off.  This created moments of anxiety for the Expedition Team as they made sure their wards on the beach were safe from tsunamis, however the waves really never got high enough to be much of a threat.

Seven Svalbard Reindeer were seen high up the slopes just below the bird cliffs.

It was a spectacular landing site and a beautiful evening.  It was hard to leave the beach to go back to the ship but by 20:00 everyone was back on board.