Ny-Ålesund

Approaching the pier in Ny-Ålesund (Photo © Joe Decker)

A light rain fell in the morning as we set foot on the pier in Ny-Ålesund. We assembled in language groups and then were lead on a short tour by the Expedition Team through one of the world's  northernmost communities.  We learned that all of the land here is managed by Kings Bay AS, a Norwegian state-owned company. It is the successor to the Kings Bay Coal Company originally founded in Ålesund  which we would be visiting later on this cruise.

Ny-Ålesund’s mining history is steeped with tragedy.  There were many serious accidents over the years the last of which resulted in the deaths of 21 miners in 1962.  The mines were closed shortly after, never to be opened again.

Taking advantage of the world's most northerly post office.
(Photo © Joe Decker).

Ny-Ålesund has a fascinating history of Polar Exploration as well. It was the starting point for Roald Amundsen’s  expeditions to reach the north pole with the sea planes N24 & N25 in 1925.  Amundsen’s first attempts were not successful but then in 1926 he left Ny-Ålesund with Umberto Nobile in a giant Zeppelin.  He was able to fly over the north pole all of the way to Alaska and then back again.  In 1928 Nobile made his own attempt to fly to the north pole in his airship called The Italia.  On his return his airship crashed killing half of his crew.  Amundsen flew from Tromsø to join the search for Nobile.   His plane crashed somewhere on route.  There were no survivors.

Old locomotive used to haul coal from 1917 to 1958
 (Photo © Joe Decker)

Now Ny-Ålesund exists as an international Arctic research village.  In the winter it is a quiet place with only thirty residents.  In the summer the population explodes to about 150.  Ten nations have permanent facilities here and usually another four or five nations conduct research in the summer months.

Our guided tour terminated at the tall air mast where Amundsen and Nobile tethered their massive Zeppelins in 1926 and 1928.  It now served as a monument to the glorious and also tragic days of polar exploration.

After the walk we were free to wander about Ny-Ålesund on our own.  We were advised not to go outside of town by ourselves as there was always a risk of encountering a Polar Bear.  In town there was an excellent museum and information centre to explore. Lots of people used the time to send post cards from the northernmost community in the world.  

As we prepared to leave Ny-Ålesund a band played on the pier marking our departure.  We were the last ship to visit Ny-Ålesund this summer!

Gravneset and Moffen Island

One needs a good sense of humour when
 swimming in the Arctic at Gravneset
(Photo © Joe Decker)

This morning at 09:30 we all met in the Observation Lounge.  The Captain warmly welcomed everyone and toasted the start of our voyage.  He then introduced us to key member’s of the ship.  It was then The Expedition Leader Karin Strand’s turn to introduce the Expedition Team.   We have a very large team for this voyage with nine regular Expedition Team members and three guest lecturers.

While we were being introduced to the Officers and the Expedition Team we cruised slowly into Magdalene Fjord, past the whaler’s grave site at Gravneset to drop anchor in Trinity Harbour.

The scenery was impressive.  Jagged mountains rose on three sides.  Several glaciers ripped a path through themountains and down to the sea.  We could see our landing site, a low sandy beach, just ahead of us.

We began landing operations at 10:15 and by 10:30 the first passengers were on shore.  We had lots of time we could spend at Gravneset so we sent in those people that wished to go on a long hike of three hours duration first.  After the long hikers were off the short hikers went ashore where there were Expedition Team members stationed at key points of interest and where they could survey the area for Polar Bears.  And we indeed did find bears.  Three of them were spotted on the opposite shoreline.  they were far enough away where they posed absolutely no threat to us.

At our muster stations during the mandatory safety drill.
(Photo © Joe Decker)

During the long hike someone fell rather awkwardly and suffered a bad fracture to their wrist.  Arrangements were soon made for a helicopter to come to the landing site from Longyearbyen. 

It seemed ironic that while we waited for the helicopter to arrive we had scheduled our compulsory safety drill.  It was an interesting procedure to watch and in which to participate.  The crew was very efficient in their jobs.  They have obviously gone through this same drill many, many times.

Shortly after 16:00 the helicopter set down on the beach at Gravneset and the patient, along with his wife were on their way to the hospital in Longyearbyen.  They were hopeful that once his injury was attended to that they would rejoin us in Tromsø.  Stay tuned to this story as we all hope for a happy reunion in Tromsø.

Polar Bear in Trinity harbour (Photo © Joe Decker)

When we were exiting Trinity Harbour the navigation officers brought us closer to the three bears we had spotted earlier.  Now that was exciting.  Our second day in the journey and we were lucky enough to see three Polar Bears.

As we sailed further north towards Moffen Island (which would the northernmost point on our journey) the skies cleared progressively.  At 19:30 we slowly approached what looked little more than a big sand bar.  It seemed boastful to call this an island.  As we faced the island on the right hand side, was a group of approximately fifty Walrus.  It was an inspiring sight.  The Captain guided the ship very slowly close to shore.  At our closest we were no more than 100 metres away.  A gorgeous pink sunset bathed the island in soft warm light.  It was a scene that would be indelibly etched in our minds.

Embarkation Day

Occupied and abandoned buildings in Barentsburg

It was a fine sunny morning in Longyearbyen.  For most people joining us today there was a morning briefing in the hotel outlining the plan for today and tomorrow and describing how various systems and procedures function on the ship. 

Lunch was at the hotel which was followed a bus tour of Longyearbyen.  The comprehensive tour took us to a gallery and a museum and gave us a good understanding of what life in a high Arctic community might be like.  We arrived at the ship at 16:30 and before too long we had been issued a photo I.D. card and were escorted to our cabins.  At that point we could choose to open up a cruise account at reception, get a blue jacket (which was included with the trip!) or try on a pair of Muck Boots. The Muck Boots were part of a new boot rental program on board. So far it has been really successful.  People seem to love their Muck Boots.  

Sign in Barentsburg

In the dining room we enjoyed the first of many sumptuous meals to be prepared by Chef Johan Ludwig and his fabulous team in the galley.

At 20:00 we arrived at the pier in the curious Russian coal mining community of Barentsburg. Barentsburg is unique.  From the moment you step on the pier it feels like you have entered another world.  

Fram at the pier in Barentsburg

Mining for coal started here in 1916.  Ownership of the mines changed hands a couple of times but was resold to a Russian company in 1932.  The mines were nearly completely destroyed in WWII by the Germans but were rebuilt in the 50’s.  During the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s work was sought after in Barentsburg.  It was very well paid and food was free.

Now Barentsburg is a community of 450 people.  The architecture is Russian.  Many of the buildings are abandoned and in a state of decay.  It has a feeling of a ghost town except people live and work there all year round.

We were met on the pier by two local Russian guides and were lead on a 30 minute tour of the community.  After the tour we were invited to a beautiful old  theatre where we were entertained with Russian folk dancing and singing.

We were reminded to be back on the ship by 22:45 as the ship was leaving at 23:00.

Alkehornet and Flintholmen

Windy day at Alkehornet (Photo © joe Decker)

This morning we landed beneath an impressive triangular-shaped white cliff called Alkehornet.  High above us in front of the cliff face the last of the Kittiwakes circled, shrilly calling their own names, “kitti-wa-ake!  Kitti-wa-ake! Kitti-wa-ake!”  Sleek and powerful Parasitic Jaegers would occasionally go streaking by.  In the U.K. Parasitic Jaegers are referred to as Arctic Skuas.  They are the F18s of the Avian Arctic.  They make their living by stealing the food from other sea birds.  Not a lot fun if you are a Puffin, Guillemot or Kittiwake. Forgive the anthropomorphisms but there is an elegant, edgy, cool factor to Jaegers that other sea birds just don’t possess.  If I was a sea bird I would definitely be a Jaeger. 

Lush vegetation at Alkehornet (Photo © Joe Decker)

There were several groups of Svalbard Reindeer quietly grazing on the very lush vegetation.  Rutting season begins in September. Males with large racks of antlers accompanied females with large calves.  

The wind augmented throughout the landing.  It seemed fine when we walked inland but on the return, suddenly you were blasted in the face.  Instead of an undetectable fuel for life, air became an invisible physical presence you fought against. Each step felt like pushing against a barrier.  It was another reminder that summer was over and that winter would soon be here.

It wasn't surprising that the surf had picked up at the landing site.  It was a bit tricky to get back in the Polar Cirkel boats and it was certainly a cold, soggy ride back to the ship. 

Svalbard Reindeer at Alkehornet (Photo © Joe Decker)

In the afternoon there was time for a couple of lectures which was followed by a landing at Flintholmen at 18:00.

This was the only landing we made here all season.  It was really a nice place!  We made an easy landing on a broad cobblestone beach.  The most interesting thing about this site is that were fossils to be found almost wherever there was exposed rock.   One only had to stroll along the beach and it was easy to spot rocks loaded with fossilized shells.

A light rain fell throughout the landing but the winds had dropped to almost nothing.  It was much warmer as well.  On the beach, Tom and Andy were there to assist everyone in crossing a glacial stream.  Indeed, anyone without Muckboots were practically thrown across the river - much to everyone's delight!!

There was a short walk to a small but beautiful waterfall.  Our geologist, Steffen Biersack was there to greet everyone.  He enthusiastically explained the key elements of geology that shaped the surrounding landscape and had several fossil samples to show to everyone.

Welcome to The Twilight Zone!

Today we were enshrouded by fog all day long.  It was like an episode from Rod Sterling’s: The Twilight Zone.  Was there really a world outside of that white wall of mist?

Samarinvågen glacier in the fog (Photo © Joe Decker)

We weren’t scheduled to land at Gnålodden until 14:30. Many people chose to attend one of the lectures we had scheduled from 09:30 until 12:00.

At 14:30 it was plain to see that it was too foggy to land at Gnålodden.  Like I mentioned yesterday, playing peek-a-boo with Polar Bears in the fog is not exactly the safest thing to do.  Exciting? Yes!

It was an easy decision to cancel the landing and seek out a landing site with good visibility.  It was a good plan, but the fog persisted.  There were moments of sheer beauty like when the sun poked a hole in the fog blanket to illuminate parts of the glacier at Samarinvågen.

Samarinvågen glacier in the fog (Photo © Joe Decker)

Heavy sea fog near Gnålodden (Photo © Joe Decker).

A very big part of a vacation on a ship can be the ship itself.  Fram is a very comfy vessel.  A day like today was a day to pamper one’s self.  After all we had been kept hopping with two landings just about every day. There are two excellent jacuzzis outside on deck seven and up high on deck eight there are the nicest saunas I’ve seen on any ship. There are also plenty of places to sit quietly to read a book. The gym was busy for much of the day.  Perhaps people were using the opportunity to burn some of the extra calories they had been consuming while on board. 
A day of complete relaxation today, means energy to burn tomorrow! Hah!

A Day of Exotic Wildlife.

Female Polar Bear with two cubs on a whale carcass.

If someone had told you when you were a troubled teenager that one day you would be high in the Arctic watching Polar Bears and Walruses in one of the remotest wilderness areas in the world, what would you have thought? Would you have believed them? I certainly didn’t imagine that I would be so privileged.  Privileges like that were reserved for Marlin Perkins and Jim on Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom.  I was wrong.  Today we experienced the wild kingdom first hand.

In the morning starting at 08:30 we were able to watch Polar Bears along the shoreline from our Polar Cirkel boats. We were in Freemandsundet between Edgeøya and Barentsøya Islands. Despite a heavy fog, the Expedition Team was able to find three bears, a female with two cubs, near an old whale carcass.  It was difficult to identify the species of whale but it was possibly a small Fin Whale.   Most of the carcass had been stripped clean although there were enough scraps left to keep the bears interested.  

Later when the fog began to lift, the Expedition Team discovered another three bears! To be able to see one of the most powerful and beautiful predators on the planet in its natural habitat was an experience that none of us will ever forget.

Male walrus hauled out at Kapp Lee.

In the afternoon we sailed further south to Kapp Lee on the north west coast of Edgeøya.  From the ship we could see a group of at least twenty Walrus hauled out on shore.  At this landing site we had planned the options of going on a long hike or short hike.  For the long hike we had hoped to go to the top of the escarpment at Kapp Lee but there was a heavy fog layer part way up the slope.  Hiking in the fog in Polar Bear country just doesn’t make a whole lot of sense so both hikes were restricted to lower elevations. 

Whether or not you chose a long, or short, or no hike at all, there was plenty of time to go visit those crazy Walruses.  I mean crazy in the cool, outlandish, extreme kinda way.  If you were to design an animal that specializes in eating clams and lives in cold water, would you have come up with a Walrus?  Lounging on a soft sandy beach, not more than 40 metres away in a big, grumbling, snorting pile, was a group of approximately twenty heavily tusked pinnipeds. Occasionally one of the bigger animals would decide to move from the periphery to the interior of the pile, possibly because it is warmer in the centre.  This procedure involved sharply poking the bloke in front of you with your tusks which of course resulted in much grumbling from the pokee and loud grumbling from all of the disturbed neighbours.  It was fascinating to watch how they sorted themselves out.  Several of the Walruses had broken tusks.  A couple of them even had two broken tusks.

Eolusneset in Sorgfjorden & Torellneset

At 08:30 we started landing operations at Eolusneset in Sorgfjorden which is located in north east Spitsbergen near the entrance to Hinlopen Strait.

Pooling surface water due to permafrost at Eolusneset

There was a lovely gravel beach to land on with a long narrow lagoon just above the beach. Beyond that a huge flat area stretched for several kilometres.

Overlooking the landing site there was a cross on a small hill.  It was placed there in 1855 as a memorial to the fallen whalers in the famous sea battle between the French and the Dutch in 1693.

The terrain was extremely flat. In such a flat area there is little chance for the water to runoff nor can the water penetrate the permafrost.  Since the water has no place to go, it tends to collect and lie at the surface.  These wet areas did not pose a problem.  It was easy to walk around them.

In the distance we could see a herd of approximately twelve reindeer. It was getting close to rutting season so the reindeer were starting to gather in small herds.

Many people chose to walk around the entire perimeter set by the Expedition Team. At a leisurely pace it was accomplished easily in an hour’s time.

Hiking across the tundra at Eolusneset

We were all back on board the ship by noon.  We had about 50 nautical miles to cover before our next proposed landing at 18:00. While we enjoyed an afternoon of scenic cruising there was also the option of attending a couple of lectures.  

As we headed south down Hinlopen Strait the wind picked up imbuing a respectable chop to the previously calm seas. 

At 18:00 we dropped anchor off of Torellneset.  From the ship we could see that there were two large groups of Walrus hauled out on the beach.  Now that is exciting news!  It was still quite windy which meant for a very wet ride to a protected beach where the landing was then accomplished easily. 

Male walrus hauled out at Torellneset

 We walked about two hundred metres along the shoreline to where we had excellent views of the walruses.  What astonishing animals they are!  At one point two walrus that were in the water came really close to people standing by the water’s edge. The curious walrus sat in the water looking at the strange group of blue people on shore. They were at most five metres away! It was an experience that those who were lucky enough to be so close to those magnificent beasts will never forget.  I know, because I was one of them.

Now as we sail southward in Hinlopen strait it is 22:00 and it is getting dark.

Monacobreen & Mushamna

Snow falling at Monaco glacier.

When we woke up this morning it was snowing outside!  Fantastic. It never fails, every time the first snow falls I feel like a little kid again!   The dining room on Fram has huge picture widows on three sides.  It was lovely to enjoy breakfast and watch snowflakes gently drift down.  The closer we got to Monaco Glacier the more ice we encountered and all of the ice was covered with a blanket of fresh fluffy snow.  

Fresh snowfall at Monaco glacier

Snow. By the calendar it is still summer.  Autumn doesn’t arrive for almost three weeks.  By the calendar, winter doesn’t arrive until December 21. Well scratch autumn off the calendar because around here it looks like we’re going from summer straight to winter!

Everyone loved cruising through the heavy ice in the Polar Cirkel boats while it was snowing. How could you not?  It was magical. It took about four hoursfor everyone to get there turn on the water.

Black-legged Kittiwakes were abundant.  Many of them rested on small icebergs and ice floes.  The juveniles have very different plumage than the adults making the young birds from this year very easy to tell apart from the adults.

Polar Cirkel boat cruising at Monaco glacier

In the afternoon we landed at Mushamna.  There is a beautiful hunter’s cabin there.  It is possible to over winter here as the cabin is in very good condition.  Each year there is a different tenant as qualified hunters need to apply to the Governor of Svalbard.  Tenancy is for one year with a possibility to extend for a 2nd year.  

Ships need to gain permission from the tenant if they wish to pay a visit to Mushamna, however this year’s tenant had already left for the season.

It was easy terrain in which to walk around.  We were free to explore the area around the cabin and to go further afield where the Expedition Team was, as usual, keeping a watchful eye for Polar Bears.

Hunter's cabin at Mushamna

It was a beautiful calm evening.  Hardly a breath of wind disturbed the air.  In a small lagoon by the cabin were a pair of Loons.  There were also Purple Sandpipers, Arctic Terns, Pink-footed Geese and Bryants Geese in the area.

Later in the evening, back on Fram, the ship’s officers and the Expedition Team put on a Fashion show in the Observation Lounge.  Just about all of the fashions available in the gift shop were modeled for us.  It was an evening that was full of fun as these were not professional models!

Ny-Ålesund & Gravneset

The first thing on our agenda today was a welcome speech at 09:30 from the Captain in the Observation Lounge on deck seven.  The Captain took the opportunity to introduce key members of the ship and then toasted the start of our Arctic Voyage.  Next it was the Expedition Leader Karin Strand’s turn to introduce the Expedition Team.

Post office in Ny-Ålesund. (Photo © Joe Decker).

Following the introductions it was time for our first landing of the day.  Fog enveloped the sea as we slowly approached the dock in Ny-Ålesund at 10:00.  As in a good mystery novel, the story of Ny-Ålesund was revealed a little at a time only this was a mist-story. At one time, this tiny village was a place of high Arctic adventure.  In 1926 Roald Amundsen, the greatest polar explorer of all time, flew in a giant air ship from Ny-Ålesund, over the north pole to Alaska and back again.  He was already the first man to reach the south pole. He also became the first to reach the north pole (albeit by air).  His fame and eventually his death are inextricably linked to Ny-Ålesund.  His former friend Umberto Nobile became his nemesis over a dispute as to whether it should be Norway or Italy that would receive the acclaim for reaching the North Pole first.  Part and parcel to this dispute, Nobile crashed in a subsequent attempt to fly to the north pole in his own airship the Italia.

Marble lions in front of Chinese research
building in Ny-Ålesund (Photo © Joe Decker)

Flying from Tromso, Amundsen joined in the massive search for his former friend.  Tragically, Amundsen’s airplane crashed leaving no survivors.

The Expedition Team recounted this mist-story as they led us through the high Arctic village.  We also learned of how this was originally a coal mining community with a past also steeped in death and tragedy.  There were several serious accidents and deaths in the mines.  Finally, the coal mines were shut down in 1963 after 21 miners died in an accident the previous year.

Now Ny-Ålesund’s raison d’être is Arctic Research.  Ten nations have permanent facilities and in the summer three or four more nations take part in research that covers everything from atmospheric sampling, aurora, various biological studies, and plate tectonics.  In the winter the population here is 30.  In the summer that swells to about 150 people.  When Fram visits add another 200+!

After the guided tour we were free to walk around the town and even out to the mast where the giant airships were once tethered.  It wasn’t hard to imagine a big zeppelin floating in the breeze high above our heads.

Arctic Tern protecting its chick at Gravneset
(Photo © Joe Decker)

Many people visited the world’s northernmost post office to stamp and mail a few cards.  Others visited the museum, the information centre and of course, the gift shop.

By 13:00 everyone was once again on board Fram. We plotted a course for our next landing in Magdalene Fjord. 

Meanwhile, back on the ship, some of the Expedition Team had been busily setting up Muck Boot shops on decks two and three.  If anyone wished to use the ship’s boots he/she could try a pair on for size and then rent them for the duration of the voyage for a modest fee.

At 14:30 there was a mandatory safety drill.  When we heard seven short alarms followed by one long alarm we were to assemble at our muster stations outside on deck five.  We were then instructed on how to put on a thermal protection suit and a life jacket in case we had to deploy the life boats and abandon the ship.  It was all very interesting and obviously an important drill with which to be familiar.

In the mid-afternoon there was time for a couple of lectures as we weren’t due to arrive in Magdalenefjorden until 17:00.

Beach at Gravneset (Photo © Joe Decker)

During the afternoon the mist had cleared up.  As we sailed into Magdalene Fjord we could see beautiful glaciers and mountains on both sides of the fjord.  At 17:00 we dropped anchor in Trinity Harbour which is a beautiful and very sheltered bay deep inside the fjord. 

This was the first time for us to use the Polar Cirkel boats.  It was a short ride to a beautiful sandy beach where we discovered it was rather easy to embark and disembark the little Norwegian boats.  The Expedition Team had placed an aluminum stair at the bow of the boat. We could just walk off the boat and step into 15 centimetres or so of water.  Easy.

Once on shore we were free to wander about on our own.  We were advised not to go beyond the Expedition Team as they were set in a large perimeter around the landing site to keep a lookout for Polar Bears.

We were astonished that so many people went for an Arctic swim.  The beach was soft and sandy and the water was a balmy 4˚C!

By 20:30 everyone had had a chance to stretch their legs, go for a frigid swim or to visit the ruins of the old whaler’s try-pot ovens for rendering blubber into oil.

The Adventure Begins.

Barentsburg pier (Photo © Joe Decker)

I am sure that when you first arrived on MS Fram that it seemed like a lot was going on.  And truthfully, there was (and always is) a lot going on.  Perhaps you took one look at the check-in queue and thought, “oh no, not another line up.”  But the good news is that that was probably the last time you will have to stand in line until you check-in at the airport on your way home.

I hope you noticed how quickly the check-in process went.  200 people were registered and issued photo I.D. cards and then escorted to their cabin quickly and efficiently.  And there, at your cabin door was your luggage already waiting for you.  Approximately 300 bags were individually checked to make sure the cabin assignment was correct and then delivered, after which the only thing remaining for you to do was to pick up your blue jacket on Deck 4 and if you wished, establish a cruise account at reception.

Russian dancers in the theatre in Barentsburg.  (Photo © Joe Decker)

The first of many superb meals prepared by Chef Johan Ludwig and the MS Fram Galley All-Stars was ready in the dining room precisely at 18:00.  Let this be a warning: those dinner plates are really big and undoubtedly you will manage to fill them.  The dessert table is about three metres long and undoubtedly you will visit every square centimetre.  Consider burning off a few thousand calories by accompanying us on some of the spectacular hikes we will be offering.  If you do happen to gain weight, don’t worry too much. I am sure you will find something to fit in our well stocked gift shop.  (I’m not too sure about our supply of trousers though).

Just as the dining room opened we set sail from Longyearbyen and made way for Barentsburg.

We arrived in Barentsburg at 20:00.  It took a few minutes to prepare the gangway on deck three but soon everyone was headed up the 252 stairs on their way to the theatre. It was a cold and drizzly night, but never mind, the theatre was very cozy inside.  The show was terrific.  There was lots of high energy dancing and we were also entertained with many beautiful Russian folk songs.

After the show we were led on a short tour of Barentsburg with a local Russian guide.  It was really interesting to learn about this unique coal mining community high in the Arctic.  One could only wonder what life might be like here in the middle of the winter with 24 hours of darkness and extreme cold weather for days on end. 

By 22:45 everyone was back on board and shortly after we were under way once again. 

Alkehornet & Skansebukta

 Our first landing of the day was at Alkehornet.  As usual there was a large heard of approximately 30 reindeer grazing peacefully throughout much of the landing site.  This is a mixed heard of young calves with their mothers and males of various ages.  Some of the males had a very impressive rack of antlers.  Several of the males were in the process of shedding the velvet from their antlers.  You could see the soft velvety skin hanging in ragged patches.  The antlers appeared bloody red where the skin had recently been shed.

They were not at all bothered by our presence.  They would often wander within 3 or 4 metres of camera bearing people much to the photographer's delight.

The morning was completely overcast.  A chilly damp wind blew constantly while we were ashore.  Despite the cool air it was wonderful to stroll about this very peaceful site.  For those who enjoyed views from on high there was a nice vantage point a little closer to the nesting Kittiwakes.

Once and a while a trio of birds would go rocketing by at Exocet speeds.  Parasitic Jaegers chasing young Kittiwakes and sometimes seen chasing Puffins.  We weren't sure if this was pure harassment or if the Jaegers were sometimes successful.  

At 17:30 we all met in the Observation where the Captain gave a nice speech about what a successful trip we had enjoyed.  We raised a glass of champagne or fruit juice to toast our voyage which was followed by the MS Fram choir singing for everyone. 

In the early evening at 18:30 we landed at Skansebukta (one of my favourite sites!).  It was still damp and overcast.  The ghost of a feeble sun struggled behind the clouds. Despite the date, autumn is settling in here in Svalbard.

A few of the hardier souls chose to hike up to a small but beautiful waterfall at the vertical cliff face.  Suddenly, midway through the landing we heard a series of very loud gun shots.  The sound reverberated off opposing sides of the fjord.  We soon discovered that two people from Longyearbyen were engaged in some target practice.

Back on the ship the hotel staff had prepared a really great bbq for everyone.  There was a light rain falling so most people chose to eat there meal in the Observation Lounge.  It was a nice way to wrap up a fantastic voyage.

Gnålodden

Polar Bear scat!!!

Because of the great distance involved we were not due to arrive at our landing site at Gnålodden until later in the afternoon.  It was a perfect day for scenic cruising and just about everywhere you go in Svalbard is scenic.  We had partly cloudy skies and calm weather throughout the day.  Partly cloudy also means partly sunny.  It was a day to put a smile on your face.

Mornings or afternoons without landings are never wasted on board Fram.  We always use that time to continue with our lecture series.  This morning was no different. We had lectures on several topics in English and German as well as showing two different documentaries.

I need a thesaurus to come up with new words to describe the scenery in Svalbard.  Gnålodden and the bird cliff, Gnålberget are spectacular. I believe I have also used all of the following synonyms for spectacular when describing Svalbard: stunning, incredible, amazing, fantastic, fabulous, magnificent, brilliant, dramatic, dazzling, breathtaking, astonishing, marvelous, wonderful and exciting.  Take your pick.  They all work.

At 14:30 we hopped into the Polar Cirkel boats and enjoyed a short ride through lots of small bergy bits to a gravel beach.  Looming impressively overhead were the lofty bird cliffs of Gnålberget.  Thousands of Kittiwakes, called shrilly. The cliffs seemed to amplify the sound.  There were also a lot of Northern Fulmars still soaring about the cliffs as well as the occasional Puffin and Arctic Skua.

In one area of the landing site there was so much bear dung that it more resembled a cow pasture than a scene visited by Polar Bears beneath a remote sea bird colony.  Most of the scat was relatively fresh.  This information put the Expedition Team on high alert.  Before long the Team spotted a lone bear on a large ice floe about a kilometre away.  With good binoculars you could see that the bear was busily eating a seal.  The bear posed no immediate danger so we continued with the landing operation.  After about an hour the bear hopped into the water.  It appeared to have no destination in mind as it seemed to swim aimlessly about.  Perhaps it needed to bath after feasting on the seal.  Regardless, after about twenty minutes the bear went back to the same ice floe and continued with its fine meal of seal.

Meanwhile on the other side of the landing site, an Arctic Fox came very close to some people and was even chewing on the boot of one of the Expedition Team.  Amazing!

Many people chose to go high up on a grass covered scree slope where they could view the sea birds better and where they also had good viewing of both Barnacle Geese and Pink-footed Geese.

By 17:30 the last Polar Cirkel boat had left the shore and soon after, Fram was under way again.  At 19:15 there was an announcement that several large whales had been seen on the horizon.  We changed course and headed for the whales.  As we got closer we could see that it was two feeding Fin Whales, the second largest animals to have lived.  The whales were feeding right at the surface.  At times we could see them roll onto their sides with their mouths wide open in a feeding lunge.

We stayed with the whales for 45 minutes before going back on course.  Perhaps we would encounter more whales on route.

Bear City!!

 

This morning we went Polar Bear watching from the Polar Cirkel boats.  If you’re not jealous, you should be.  It was an incredible experience.  We had heard reports of a whale carcass washed up on shore.  Knowing that whale carcasses attract Polar Bears we decided to investigate.  As we approached the northern shore on Edgeøya in Freemansundet we counted at least thirteen bears!

There was hardly anything left of the whale. Along the shoreline you could see scattered vertebrae, many of them still connected to one another.  There were large jaw and rib bones and other unidentifiable bits of the skeleton. It was a baleen whale but we couldn’t get close enough to tell which species.  That had something to do with the seven Polar Bears in the immediate vicinity of the carcass.  It was much larger than a Minke Whale and smaller than an adult Fin Whale. 

I pictured a scenario where the whale had died at sea from unknown causes.  Eventually it would have bloated and then floated from gases formed in the body cavity.  Then, like all the drift wood in the area, it was probably deposited by currents on this remote beach.

It looked like most of the meat and blubber had been stripped clean, yet these nearly bare bones were still enough to attract at least thirteen Polar Bears.  That tells you something about how little food there is in this area at this time of year for the bears. Most of the bears looked to be in reasonable shape.  There was however, one very skinny adult bear that appeared rather weak. It waited lying submissively near the whale bones. At times it would get up and half-heartedly paw and sniff at the remains.  There didn’t appear to be enough to interest even this starving bear.

Later in the morning a rather plump female bear lumbered down to the beach.  She was wearing a large tracking collar.  She plopped herself down beside part of the carcass resting her head on the vertebrae thereby proclaiming to the other bears in the area, “this is mine.”

Expedition Team getting ready at Kapp Lee

The bears were not bothered by us in the Polar Cirkel boats.  Indeed, they mostly ignored us.  It was unlikely that we were their first visitors.  By 13:00 almost everyone on the ship had seen the bears including many of the crew. 

In the late afternoon we landed at a beautiful spot called Kapp Lee which was further south and west on the Island of Edgeøya. Once again there was the reminder of the extensive hunting that happened in Svalbard.  The area above the beach is littered with old Walrus bones.  On the north end of the beach you could see the tracks in the sand where Walruses had recently been hauled out, perhaps even earlier this same day.

Walrus bones at Kapp Lee

Just above the landing site were three small huts.  One of the huts was in an interesting octagonal shape that had been used by Norwegian trappers. 

View from 279 metres at Kapp Lee

We had the options of going on a short or long hike.  The Expedition Team stressed the importance of walking in single file, especially in the wet muddy areas.  Despite their warnings of the possibility of getting stuck knee deep in the mud, several people wandered off the preferred track and needed rescuing from the sucking sludge.

The long hike continued up a dry, easy slope on the back side of the cliffs of Kapp Lee.  Along the way we could see reindeer grazing on distant slopes and even found several fossil fragments. At the top we had a fantastic view where we gathered for a group photo.  The hike took three hours to complete.  This time, on the way back, everyone made sure to stay in single file through the muddy areas!

Kinnvika, Alkefjellet & Torellneset

Polar Cirkel boat ride to the beach at Kinnvika

 Although we reached our most northerly point yesterday (81˚29’N), we are still very high in the Arctic.  Our landing this morning at Kinnvika in Murchisonfjorden was at 80˚00’ N.  That’s only 600 nautical miles (690 land miles, 1,111 kilometres) from Santa’s house (he lives at the North Pole and not in Greenland, as some people from Greenland and Denmark would have you believe).

Helicopter used by researchers at Kinnvika

And as you might expect we are experiencing Arctic temperatures.  When we landed at 08:30 the air temperature was 2˚C with a thirteen-knot wind blowing on shore.  Factoring in the wind chill, we were experiencing –11˚C.  It was a tad chilly.  With the cooler weather it made it easier to imagine what it might be like to stay here for an extended period like the many scientists did in the first International Geophysical Year in 1957.

Historic buildings at Kinnvika

Nine of the eleven buildings they constructed for that project still stand today.  The men stationed at Kinnvika were studying many things including geomagnetism, atmospheric chemistry, observations of the sun, the ionosphere, geomagnetism, aurora and cosmic rays.  They were a small but important part of a global research project involving 60,000 scientists from 60 nations.

Like the air and the clouds above us, the landscape was cold and grey.  We meandered through the science ghost town and into the Arctic Tundra beyond.  We walked on sharp shards of rock that had been splintered and shattered by the freezing, melting and refreezing of water countless times over countless millennia.

In the afternoon we cruised along the incredible sea bird cliffs of Alkefjellet from the comfort of Fram.  The water was deep where the cliffs met the sea enabling us to come very close to the rock face.  Black-legged Kittiwakes, Guillemots and Puffins perched precariously on thousands of tiny ledges.  A confusion of birds filled the sky.  How they avoided avian collisions was beyond my ken.

Soon after the amazing cliffs of Alkefjellet Fram cautiously approached the low sandy beach at Torellneset where a group of about twenty male walruses were hauled out in a tight thigmotactic cluster.  To have such an extraordinary opportunity to witness these splendid animals in such a wild and remote location was indeed a very special privilege.

We still had many miles to sail through the night so after about fifteen minutes we went back on course moving steadily eastward on the northern section of  our circumnavigation of Svalbard.