Trollfjord, Solvaer and Henningsvaer

Fram, and Polar Cirkel boats with Captain Andreasson in Trollfjord

This morning we wove through the picturesque narrow Raftsund Strait.  You could feel Fram leaning into the turns of the tight passage.  At 08:30 we arrived very near the entrance to Trollfjord.  There waiting for us in his own small boat was one of the Captains of Fram, Rune Andreasson! 30 lucky passengers had booked an excursion aboard our very own Polar Cirkel boats and Captain Andreasson was going to lead our small Norwegian Armada into Trollfjord and then on a long tour ending in the port of Solvaer.The mouth of the Trollfjord where it joins Raftsund Strait is a mere 100 meters wide and at its widest point is only 800 meters. The mountains surrounding Trollfjord are 600 to 1100 metres high and the fjord itself is 72 metres at its deepest point.

Needless to say it is spectacular.  To make it even more exciting two very large White-tailed Sea-eagles were soaring around inside the fjord.  We got some really good looks at these magnificent birds of prey.  White-tailed Sea-eagles are closely related to Bald Eagles.  They are the fourth largest eagle in the world. The largest population of these majestic birds is along the coast of Norway.  There are approximately 10,000 pairs in the world.

Rainbow in Trollfjord

As Fram exited Trollfjord back into Raftsund the Polar Cirkel boats went on their own route to Solvaer.  A shallower route that Fram wouldn’t be able to follow.  About two hours later at noon, Fram and the Polar Cirkel boats rejoined at the pier in Solvaer.  No matter whether you went on Fram or in the Polar Cirkel boats it was one of the more spectacular sections of scenic cruising in the world. 

Fantastic scenery on the way to Solvaer

Fram spent the afternoon in Solvaer but there was a shuttle available throughout the afternoon to the picturesque community of Henningsvaer.  It is one of the larger fishing villages in the Lofoten Isands and a very busy tourist attraction in the peak summer months.  We were able to take a stroll through the attractive town, visit a coffee shop or stop in one of the gift shops that were still open.

At 20:15 we left the pier of Solvaer.  After a summer of 24 hours of daylight 7 days/week it was strange for it to be so dark.  But maybe, if the clouds parted just a little we would get a glimpse of the Aurora Borealis.

All Day In Tromsø

View of Tromsø from Storsteinen Mountain

It was warm today.  At mid-day you could comfortably explore the streets of Tromsø without a jacket.  It was partially cloudy but when it is partially cloudy it means that it is also partially sunny. The people of Tromsø told us that this was definitely not the norm for this time of year.   

There are trees.  Lots of trees. The trees are changing colour in Norway.  It is only eight days until the first day of autumn. We are experiencing darkness now. As I write this it is 20:30 and it is really dark.  All of these marvellous things are a product of moving further south and changing seasons.  In many ways Norway reminds me of Canada and today I had a slight pang of homesickness. The leaves at home would also be beginning to change.

Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø

We were in Tromsø all day - 09:00 until 19:00 which meant there was time to go on one of the excursions on offer and to explore beautiful Tromsø on your own.  Many people went on the motor coach tour. The tour wound through the city and eventually brought us to a cable car.  The cable car whisked us up to the top of Storsteinen Mountain, 420 metres above sea level where we had a wonderful panoramic view over the city and the surrounding waterways and mountains.  We also visited the very stylish Arctic Cathedral which was built in 1965.  Other people chose to go on a Sami Culture adventure or a walking tour of the city which ended at the famous Mack Brewery - the northernmost brewery in the world.

Pipe organ in the Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø

Beautiful day in Tromsø

Today we had the rare treat of being in port, side by side (or actually end to end) with one of Hurtigruten's other ships, the MS Midnatsol.  She is quite a bit larger than Fram but with a very quick glance she looks similar as the colour scheme is the same but... 

Now we are heading down the beautiful coast of Norway.  Our next destination the famous Lofoten Islands!

Nordkapp and Honningsvåg

Southward bound. We enjoyed some really fantastic scenic cruising on our way to Nordkapp and Honningsvåg this morning. At 12:00 we cruised slowly by Nordkapp. The impressive cliffs rise to 307 metres (1,007 ft).  Nordkapp is often referred to as the northernmost point of Europe however there is some disagreement over that.

Nordkapp (Photo © Andrew Wenzel).

There were many birds still nesting along the cliffs including a large colony of Gannets.

The scenic cruising got better and better as we sailed through narrow passages between islands.  Green hills and mountains rose up on both sides of Fram.

We arrived in Honningsvåg at 15:30.  Even though we were still very far north, we could feel that the air was appreciably warmer. When we first arrived it was raining fairly hard but it wasn’t the cold rain we had experienced on Bjornoya and it certainly wasn’t enough to keep us from enjoying the beautiful town of Honningsvåg.  It is really a picturesque community and like practically all of Norway, extremely well kept.  One never finds so much as a gummer wrapper out of place.

Cliffs beneath Nordkapp (Photo © Joe Decker).

Lots of people had booked an excursion to Nordkapp and others went for a king crab feast.  By all reports everyone enjoyed both immensely!

Those people that had not booked an excursion explored Honningsvåg on their own.

At 17:46 Fram had to leave the dock for just over an hour to take on more fuel.  Once that was accomplished we went alongside the pier and picked up all those that hadn’t made it back to the ship yet.

Honningsvåg harbour (Photo © Joe Decker)

When we departed the pier for the last time 19:15we were involved in a series of drills dealing with medivac procedures by helicopter.  It was quite interesting to watch and comforting to know that on Fram, safety is always priority number one and that nothing is left to chance.

Bjornøya

“The 12^th of June in the morning,  wee saw a white beare, which wee rowed after with our boate, thinking to cast a rope about her necke; but when wee were neare her, shee was so great that wee durst not doe it.”  Willem Barents’ journal entry from his 1596 voyage.

Bjornøya revealed through the mist (Photo © Joe Decker).

We had many miles to cover through the night and all of the morning before reaching the southernmost part  of Svalbard, the island of Bjornoya.  As usual, sea time meant lecture time!  Both lecture halls were kept busy from 09:30 until noon.

At approximately 11:00 we had our first glimpses of the rugged beauty of Bjornoya.

We were again experiencing heavy sea fog. The craggy coastline was revealed a little at a time through gaps in the mist.  It looked bleak, inaccessible and relatively barren.  Perfect for another Arctic adventure!

Fram at anchor at Bjornøya (Photo © Joe Decker).

We had experienced a very favourable current throughout the night.  Our arrival here was a full two hours earlier than expected. We cruised down to the south end of the island where we found a very sheltered and scenic bay within which to drop anchor.  At 13:30 the Expedition Team headed to shore to prepare the landing site.  Even on this isolated island there was a chance of encountering Polar Bears.  While the risk of running into a bear here in the summer time was far less than further north in Svalbard it was better to be safe than sorry.

It took about ten minutes in the Polar Cirkel boats to reach a beautiful and very sheltered gravel beach.  Just up from the landing site were some historical artifacts left behind by whalers.

Bjornøya (Photo © Joe Decker).

There were still Fulmars at nest sites along the cliffs but most of the sea birds had already headed out to sea.  They were fun to watch as they skimmed down low just above the cliff tops.

We had a really large area we were free to explore.  For those that wanted a little more exercise there was a long uphill climb to an excellent view point.

Despite the constant, cold rain that was falling, everyone had a big smile on their face.  There were still a few wildflowers in bloom and a surprising number of mushrooms.

Coastline of Bjornøya (Photo © Andrew Wenzel).

At the end of an hour and a half we were getting pretty soggy.  We returned to the cozy confines of Fram where we could enjoy warm up in the sauna, the jacuzzi or perhaps with a hot toddy in the Observation Lounge.

Ny-Ålesund

Approaching the pier in Ny-Ålesund (Photo © Joe Decker)

A light rain fell in the morning as we set foot on the pier in Ny-Ålesund. We assembled in language groups and then were lead on a short tour by the Expedition Team through one of the world's  northernmost communities.  We learned that all of the land here is managed by Kings Bay AS, a Norwegian state-owned company. It is the successor to the Kings Bay Coal Company originally founded in Ålesund  which we would be visiting later on this cruise.

Ny-Ålesund’s mining history is steeped with tragedy.  There were many serious accidents over the years the last of which resulted in the deaths of 21 miners in 1962.  The mines were closed shortly after, never to be opened again.

Taking advantage of the world's most northerly post office.
(Photo © Joe Decker).

Ny-Ålesund has a fascinating history of Polar Exploration as well. It was the starting point for Roald Amundsen’s  expeditions to reach the north pole with the sea planes N24 & N25 in 1925.  Amundsen’s first attempts were not successful but then in 1926 he left Ny-Ålesund with Umberto Nobile in a giant Zeppelin.  He was able to fly over the north pole all of the way to Alaska and then back again.  In 1928 Nobile made his own attempt to fly to the north pole in his airship called The Italia.  On his return his airship crashed killing half of his crew.  Amundsen flew from Tromsø to join the search for Nobile.   His plane crashed somewhere on route.  There were no survivors.

Old locomotive used to haul coal from 1917 to 1958
 (Photo © Joe Decker)

Now Ny-Ålesund exists as an international Arctic research village.  In the winter it is a quiet place with only thirty residents.  In the summer the population explodes to about 150.  Ten nations have permanent facilities here and usually another four or five nations conduct research in the summer months.

Our guided tour terminated at the tall air mast where Amundsen and Nobile tethered their massive Zeppelins in 1926 and 1928.  It now served as a monument to the glorious and also tragic days of polar exploration.

After the walk we were free to wander about Ny-Ålesund on our own.  We were advised not to go outside of town by ourselves as there was always a risk of encountering a Polar Bear.  In town there was an excellent museum and information centre to explore. Lots of people used the time to send post cards from the northernmost community in the world.  

As we prepared to leave Ny-Ålesund a band played on the pier marking our departure.  We were the last ship to visit Ny-Ålesund this summer!

Gravneset and Moffen Island

One needs a good sense of humour when
 swimming in the Arctic at Gravneset
(Photo © Joe Decker)

This morning at 09:30 we all met in the Observation Lounge.  The Captain warmly welcomed everyone and toasted the start of our voyage.  He then introduced us to key member’s of the ship.  It was then The Expedition Leader Karin Strand’s turn to introduce the Expedition Team.   We have a very large team for this voyage with nine regular Expedition Team members and three guest lecturers.

While we were being introduced to the Officers and the Expedition Team we cruised slowly into Magdalene Fjord, past the whaler’s grave site at Gravneset to drop anchor in Trinity Harbour.

The scenery was impressive.  Jagged mountains rose on three sides.  Several glaciers ripped a path through themountains and down to the sea.  We could see our landing site, a low sandy beach, just ahead of us.

We began landing operations at 10:15 and by 10:30 the first passengers were on shore.  We had lots of time we could spend at Gravneset so we sent in those people that wished to go on a long hike of three hours duration first.  After the long hikers were off the short hikers went ashore where there were Expedition Team members stationed at key points of interest and where they could survey the area for Polar Bears.  And we indeed did find bears.  Three of them were spotted on the opposite shoreline.  they were far enough away where they posed absolutely no threat to us.

At our muster stations during the mandatory safety drill.
(Photo © Joe Decker)

During the long hike someone fell rather awkwardly and suffered a bad fracture to their wrist.  Arrangements were soon made for a helicopter to come to the landing site from Longyearbyen. 

It seemed ironic that while we waited for the helicopter to arrive we had scheduled our compulsory safety drill.  It was an interesting procedure to watch and in which to participate.  The crew was very efficient in their jobs.  They have obviously gone through this same drill many, many times.

Shortly after 16:00 the helicopter set down on the beach at Gravneset and the patient, along with his wife were on their way to the hospital in Longyearbyen.  They were hopeful that once his injury was attended to that they would rejoin us in Tromsø.  Stay tuned to this story as we all hope for a happy reunion in Tromsø.

Polar Bear in Trinity harbour (Photo © Joe Decker)

When we were exiting Trinity Harbour the navigation officers brought us closer to the three bears we had spotted earlier.  Now that was exciting.  Our second day in the journey and we were lucky enough to see three Polar Bears.

As we sailed further north towards Moffen Island (which would the northernmost point on our journey) the skies cleared progressively.  At 19:30 we slowly approached what looked little more than a big sand bar.  It seemed boastful to call this an island.  As we faced the island on the right hand side, was a group of approximately fifty Walrus.  It was an inspiring sight.  The Captain guided the ship very slowly close to shore.  At our closest we were no more than 100 metres away.  A gorgeous pink sunset bathed the island in soft warm light.  It was a scene that would be indelibly etched in our minds.

Embarkation Day

Occupied and abandoned buildings in Barentsburg

It was a fine sunny morning in Longyearbyen.  For most people joining us today there was a morning briefing in the hotel outlining the plan for today and tomorrow and describing how various systems and procedures function on the ship. 

Lunch was at the hotel which was followed a bus tour of Longyearbyen.  The comprehensive tour took us to a gallery and a museum and gave us a good understanding of what life in a high Arctic community might be like.  We arrived at the ship at 16:30 and before too long we had been issued a photo I.D. card and were escorted to our cabins.  At that point we could choose to open up a cruise account at reception, get a blue jacket (which was included with the trip!) or try on a pair of Muck Boots. The Muck Boots were part of a new boot rental program on board. So far it has been really successful.  People seem to love their Muck Boots.  

Sign in Barentsburg

In the dining room we enjoyed the first of many sumptuous meals to be prepared by Chef Johan Ludwig and his fabulous team in the galley.

At 20:00 we arrived at the pier in the curious Russian coal mining community of Barentsburg. Barentsburg is unique.  From the moment you step on the pier it feels like you have entered another world.  

Fram at the pier in Barentsburg

Mining for coal started here in 1916.  Ownership of the mines changed hands a couple of times but was resold to a Russian company in 1932.  The mines were nearly completely destroyed in WWII by the Germans but were rebuilt in the 50’s.  During the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s work was sought after in Barentsburg.  It was very well paid and food was free.

Now Barentsburg is a community of 450 people.  The architecture is Russian.  Many of the buildings are abandoned and in a state of decay.  It has a feeling of a ghost town except people live and work there all year round.

We were met on the pier by two local Russian guides and were lead on a 30 minute tour of the community.  After the tour we were invited to a beautiful old  theatre where we were entertained with Russian folk dancing and singing.

We were reminded to be back on the ship by 22:45 as the ship was leaving at 23:00.

Alkehornet and Flintholmen

Windy day at Alkehornet (Photo © joe Decker)

This morning we landed beneath an impressive triangular-shaped white cliff called Alkehornet.  High above us in front of the cliff face the last of the Kittiwakes circled, shrilly calling their own names, “kitti-wa-ake!  Kitti-wa-ake! Kitti-wa-ake!”  Sleek and powerful Parasitic Jaegers would occasionally go streaking by.  In the U.K. Parasitic Jaegers are referred to as Arctic Skuas.  They are the F18s of the Avian Arctic.  They make their living by stealing the food from other sea birds.  Not a lot fun if you are a Puffin, Guillemot or Kittiwake. Forgive the anthropomorphisms but there is an elegant, edgy, cool factor to Jaegers that other sea birds just don’t possess.  If I was a sea bird I would definitely be a Jaeger. 

Lush vegetation at Alkehornet (Photo © Joe Decker)

There were several groups of Svalbard Reindeer quietly grazing on the very lush vegetation.  Rutting season begins in September. Males with large racks of antlers accompanied females with large calves.  

The wind augmented throughout the landing.  It seemed fine when we walked inland but on the return, suddenly you were blasted in the face.  Instead of an undetectable fuel for life, air became an invisible physical presence you fought against. Each step felt like pushing against a barrier.  It was another reminder that summer was over and that winter would soon be here.

It wasn't surprising that the surf had picked up at the landing site.  It was a bit tricky to get back in the Polar Cirkel boats and it was certainly a cold, soggy ride back to the ship. 

Svalbard Reindeer at Alkehornet (Photo © Joe Decker)

In the afternoon there was time for a couple of lectures which was followed by a landing at Flintholmen at 18:00.

This was the only landing we made here all season.  It was really a nice place!  We made an easy landing on a broad cobblestone beach.  The most interesting thing about this site is that were fossils to be found almost wherever there was exposed rock.   One only had to stroll along the beach and it was easy to spot rocks loaded with fossilized shells.

A light rain fell throughout the landing but the winds had dropped to almost nothing.  It was much warmer as well.  On the beach, Tom and Andy were there to assist everyone in crossing a glacial stream.  Indeed, anyone without Muckboots were practically thrown across the river - much to everyone's delight!!

There was a short walk to a small but beautiful waterfall.  Our geologist, Steffen Biersack was there to greet everyone.  He enthusiastically explained the key elements of geology that shaped the surrounding landscape and had several fossil samples to show to everyone.

Welcome to The Twilight Zone!

Today we were enshrouded by fog all day long.  It was like an episode from Rod Sterling’s: The Twilight Zone.  Was there really a world outside of that white wall of mist?

Samarinvågen glacier in the fog (Photo © Joe Decker)

We weren’t scheduled to land at Gnålodden until 14:30. Many people chose to attend one of the lectures we had scheduled from 09:30 until 12:00.

At 14:30 it was plain to see that it was too foggy to land at Gnålodden.  Like I mentioned yesterday, playing peek-a-boo with Polar Bears in the fog is not exactly the safest thing to do.  Exciting? Yes!

It was an easy decision to cancel the landing and seek out a landing site with good visibility.  It was a good plan, but the fog persisted.  There were moments of sheer beauty like when the sun poked a hole in the fog blanket to illuminate parts of the glacier at Samarinvågen.

Samarinvågen glacier in the fog (Photo © Joe Decker)

Heavy sea fog near Gnålodden (Photo © Joe Decker).

A very big part of a vacation on a ship can be the ship itself.  Fram is a very comfy vessel.  A day like today was a day to pamper one’s self.  After all we had been kept hopping with two landings just about every day. There are two excellent jacuzzis outside on deck seven and up high on deck eight there are the nicest saunas I’ve seen on any ship. There are also plenty of places to sit quietly to read a book. The gym was busy for much of the day.  Perhaps people were using the opportunity to burn some of the extra calories they had been consuming while on board. 
A day of complete relaxation today, means energy to burn tomorrow! Hah!

A Day of Exotic Wildlife.

Female Polar Bear with two cubs on a whale carcass.

If someone had told you when you were a troubled teenager that one day you would be high in the Arctic watching Polar Bears and Walruses in one of the remotest wilderness areas in the world, what would you have thought? Would you have believed them? I certainly didn’t imagine that I would be so privileged.  Privileges like that were reserved for Marlin Perkins and Jim on Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom.  I was wrong.  Today we experienced the wild kingdom first hand.

In the morning starting at 08:30 we were able to watch Polar Bears along the shoreline from our Polar Cirkel boats. We were in Freemandsundet between Edgeøya and Barentsøya Islands. Despite a heavy fog, the Expedition Team was able to find three bears, a female with two cubs, near an old whale carcass.  It was difficult to identify the species of whale but it was possibly a small Fin Whale.   Most of the carcass had been stripped clean although there were enough scraps left to keep the bears interested.  

Later when the fog began to lift, the Expedition Team discovered another three bears! To be able to see one of the most powerful and beautiful predators on the planet in its natural habitat was an experience that none of us will ever forget.

Male walrus hauled out at Kapp Lee.

In the afternoon we sailed further south to Kapp Lee on the north west coast of Edgeøya.  From the ship we could see a group of at least twenty Walrus hauled out on shore.  At this landing site we had planned the options of going on a long hike or short hike.  For the long hike we had hoped to go to the top of the escarpment at Kapp Lee but there was a heavy fog layer part way up the slope.  Hiking in the fog in Polar Bear country just doesn’t make a whole lot of sense so both hikes were restricted to lower elevations. 

Whether or not you chose a long, or short, or no hike at all, there was plenty of time to go visit those crazy Walruses.  I mean crazy in the cool, outlandish, extreme kinda way.  If you were to design an animal that specializes in eating clams and lives in cold water, would you have come up with a Walrus?  Lounging on a soft sandy beach, not more than 40 metres away in a big, grumbling, snorting pile, was a group of approximately twenty heavily tusked pinnipeds. Occasionally one of the bigger animals would decide to move from the periphery to the interior of the pile, possibly because it is warmer in the centre.  This procedure involved sharply poking the bloke in front of you with your tusks which of course resulted in much grumbling from the pokee and loud grumbling from all of the disturbed neighbours.  It was fascinating to watch how they sorted themselves out.  Several of the Walruses had broken tusks.  A couple of them even had two broken tusks.

Eolusneset in Sorgfjorden & Torellneset

At 08:30 we started landing operations at Eolusneset in Sorgfjorden which is located in north east Spitsbergen near the entrance to Hinlopen Strait.

Pooling surface water due to permafrost at Eolusneset

There was a lovely gravel beach to land on with a long narrow lagoon just above the beach. Beyond that a huge flat area stretched for several kilometres.

Overlooking the landing site there was a cross on a small hill.  It was placed there in 1855 as a memorial to the fallen whalers in the famous sea battle between the French and the Dutch in 1693.

The terrain was extremely flat. In such a flat area there is little chance for the water to runoff nor can the water penetrate the permafrost.  Since the water has no place to go, it tends to collect and lie at the surface.  These wet areas did not pose a problem.  It was easy to walk around them.

In the distance we could see a herd of approximately twelve reindeer. It was getting close to rutting season so the reindeer were starting to gather in small herds.

Many people chose to walk around the entire perimeter set by the Expedition Team. At a leisurely pace it was accomplished easily in an hour’s time.

Hiking across the tundra at Eolusneset

We were all back on board the ship by noon.  We had about 50 nautical miles to cover before our next proposed landing at 18:00. While we enjoyed an afternoon of scenic cruising there was also the option of attending a couple of lectures.  

As we headed south down Hinlopen Strait the wind picked up imbuing a respectable chop to the previously calm seas. 

At 18:00 we dropped anchor off of Torellneset.  From the ship we could see that there were two large groups of Walrus hauled out on the beach.  Now that is exciting news!  It was still quite windy which meant for a very wet ride to a protected beach where the landing was then accomplished easily. 

Male walrus hauled out at Torellneset

 We walked about two hundred metres along the shoreline to where we had excellent views of the walruses.  What astonishing animals they are!  At one point two walrus that were in the water came really close to people standing by the water’s edge. The curious walrus sat in the water looking at the strange group of blue people on shore. They were at most five metres away! It was an experience that those who were lucky enough to be so close to those magnificent beasts will never forget.  I know, because I was one of them.

Now as we sail southward in Hinlopen strait it is 22:00 and it is getting dark.

Monacobreen & Mushamna

Snow falling at Monaco glacier.

When we woke up this morning it was snowing outside!  Fantastic. It never fails, every time the first snow falls I feel like a little kid again!   The dining room on Fram has huge picture widows on three sides.  It was lovely to enjoy breakfast and watch snowflakes gently drift down.  The closer we got to Monaco Glacier the more ice we encountered and all of the ice was covered with a blanket of fresh fluffy snow.  

Fresh snowfall at Monaco glacier

Snow. By the calendar it is still summer.  Autumn doesn’t arrive for almost three weeks.  By the calendar, winter doesn’t arrive until December 21. Well scratch autumn off the calendar because around here it looks like we’re going from summer straight to winter!

Everyone loved cruising through the heavy ice in the Polar Cirkel boats while it was snowing. How could you not?  It was magical. It took about four hoursfor everyone to get there turn on the water.

Black-legged Kittiwakes were abundant.  Many of them rested on small icebergs and ice floes.  The juveniles have very different plumage than the adults making the young birds from this year very easy to tell apart from the adults.

Polar Cirkel boat cruising at Monaco glacier

In the afternoon we landed at Mushamna.  There is a beautiful hunter’s cabin there.  It is possible to over winter here as the cabin is in very good condition.  Each year there is a different tenant as qualified hunters need to apply to the Governor of Svalbard.  Tenancy is for one year with a possibility to extend for a 2nd year.  

Ships need to gain permission from the tenant if they wish to pay a visit to Mushamna, however this year’s tenant had already left for the season.

It was easy terrain in which to walk around.  We were free to explore the area around the cabin and to go further afield where the Expedition Team was, as usual, keeping a watchful eye for Polar Bears.

Hunter's cabin at Mushamna

It was a beautiful calm evening.  Hardly a breath of wind disturbed the air.  In a small lagoon by the cabin were a pair of Loons.  There were also Purple Sandpipers, Arctic Terns, Pink-footed Geese and Bryants Geese in the area.

Later in the evening, back on Fram, the ship’s officers and the Expedition Team put on a Fashion show in the Observation Lounge.  Just about all of the fashions available in the gift shop were modeled for us.  It was an evening that was full of fun as these were not professional models!

Ny-Ålesund & Gravneset

The first thing on our agenda today was a welcome speech at 09:30 from the Captain in the Observation Lounge on deck seven.  The Captain took the opportunity to introduce key members of the ship and then toasted the start of our Arctic Voyage.  Next it was the Expedition Leader Karin Strand’s turn to introduce the Expedition Team.

Post office in Ny-Ålesund. (Photo © Joe Decker).

Following the introductions it was time for our first landing of the day.  Fog enveloped the sea as we slowly approached the dock in Ny-Ålesund at 10:00.  As in a good mystery novel, the story of Ny-Ålesund was revealed a little at a time only this was a mist-story. At one time, this tiny village was a place of high Arctic adventure.  In 1926 Roald Amundsen, the greatest polar explorer of all time, flew in a giant air ship from Ny-Ålesund, over the north pole to Alaska and back again.  He was already the first man to reach the south pole. He also became the first to reach the north pole (albeit by air).  His fame and eventually his death are inextricably linked to Ny-Ålesund.  His former friend Umberto Nobile became his nemesis over a dispute as to whether it should be Norway or Italy that would receive the acclaim for reaching the North Pole first.  Part and parcel to this dispute, Nobile crashed in a subsequent attempt to fly to the north pole in his own airship the Italia.

Marble lions in front of Chinese research
building in Ny-Ålesund (Photo © Joe Decker)

Flying from Tromso, Amundsen joined in the massive search for his former friend.  Tragically, Amundsen’s airplane crashed leaving no survivors.

The Expedition Team recounted this mist-story as they led us through the high Arctic village.  We also learned of how this was originally a coal mining community with a past also steeped in death and tragedy.  There were several serious accidents and deaths in the mines.  Finally, the coal mines were shut down in 1963 after 21 miners died in an accident the previous year.

Now Ny-Ålesund’s raison d’être is Arctic Research.  Ten nations have permanent facilities and in the summer three or four more nations take part in research that covers everything from atmospheric sampling, aurora, various biological studies, and plate tectonics.  In the winter the population here is 30.  In the summer that swells to about 150 people.  When Fram visits add another 200+!

After the guided tour we were free to walk around the town and even out to the mast where the giant airships were once tethered.  It wasn’t hard to imagine a big zeppelin floating in the breeze high above our heads.

Arctic Tern protecting its chick at Gravneset
(Photo © Joe Decker)

Many people visited the world’s northernmost post office to stamp and mail a few cards.  Others visited the museum, the information centre and of course, the gift shop.

By 13:00 everyone was once again on board Fram. We plotted a course for our next landing in Magdalene Fjord. 

Meanwhile, back on the ship, some of the Expedition Team had been busily setting up Muck Boot shops on decks two and three.  If anyone wished to use the ship’s boots he/she could try a pair on for size and then rent them for the duration of the voyage for a modest fee.

At 14:30 there was a mandatory safety drill.  When we heard seven short alarms followed by one long alarm we were to assemble at our muster stations outside on deck five.  We were then instructed on how to put on a thermal protection suit and a life jacket in case we had to deploy the life boats and abandon the ship.  It was all very interesting and obviously an important drill with which to be familiar.

In the mid-afternoon there was time for a couple of lectures as we weren’t due to arrive in Magdalenefjorden until 17:00.

Beach at Gravneset (Photo © Joe Decker)

During the afternoon the mist had cleared up.  As we sailed into Magdalene Fjord we could see beautiful glaciers and mountains on both sides of the fjord.  At 17:00 we dropped anchor in Trinity Harbour which is a beautiful and very sheltered bay deep inside the fjord. 

This was the first time for us to use the Polar Cirkel boats.  It was a short ride to a beautiful sandy beach where we discovered it was rather easy to embark and disembark the little Norwegian boats.  The Expedition Team had placed an aluminum stair at the bow of the boat. We could just walk off the boat and step into 15 centimetres or so of water.  Easy.

Once on shore we were free to wander about on our own.  We were advised not to go beyond the Expedition Team as they were set in a large perimeter around the landing site to keep a lookout for Polar Bears.

We were astonished that so many people went for an Arctic swim.  The beach was soft and sandy and the water was a balmy 4˚C!

By 20:30 everyone had had a chance to stretch their legs, go for a frigid swim or to visit the ruins of the old whaler’s try-pot ovens for rendering blubber into oil.

The Adventure Begins.

Barentsburg pier (Photo © Joe Decker)

I am sure that when you first arrived on MS Fram that it seemed like a lot was going on.  And truthfully, there was (and always is) a lot going on.  Perhaps you took one look at the check-in queue and thought, “oh no, not another line up.”  But the good news is that that was probably the last time you will have to stand in line until you check-in at the airport on your way home.

I hope you noticed how quickly the check-in process went.  200 people were registered and issued photo I.D. cards and then escorted to their cabin quickly and efficiently.  And there, at your cabin door was your luggage already waiting for you.  Approximately 300 bags were individually checked to make sure the cabin assignment was correct and then delivered, after which the only thing remaining for you to do was to pick up your blue jacket on Deck 4 and if you wished, establish a cruise account at reception.

Russian dancers in the theatre in Barentsburg.  (Photo © Joe Decker)

The first of many superb meals prepared by Chef Johan Ludwig and the MS Fram Galley All-Stars was ready in the dining room precisely at 18:00.  Let this be a warning: those dinner plates are really big and undoubtedly you will manage to fill them.  The dessert table is about three metres long and undoubtedly you will visit every square centimetre.  Consider burning off a few thousand calories by accompanying us on some of the spectacular hikes we will be offering.  If you do happen to gain weight, don’t worry too much. I am sure you will find something to fit in our well stocked gift shop.  (I’m not too sure about our supply of trousers though).

Just as the dining room opened we set sail from Longyearbyen and made way for Barentsburg.

We arrived in Barentsburg at 20:00.  It took a few minutes to prepare the gangway on deck three but soon everyone was headed up the 252 stairs on their way to the theatre. It was a cold and drizzly night, but never mind, the theatre was very cozy inside.  The show was terrific.  There was lots of high energy dancing and we were also entertained with many beautiful Russian folk songs.

After the show we were led on a short tour of Barentsburg with a local Russian guide.  It was really interesting to learn about this unique coal mining community high in the Arctic.  One could only wonder what life might be like here in the middle of the winter with 24 hours of darkness and extreme cold weather for days on end. 

By 22:45 everyone was back on board and shortly after we were under way once again.