Rivers of Western Europe

Fram arrived in Hamburg soon after dawn. Passengers disembarked in the cool, but it soon became a scorching hot day. Sailing back out of the city this afternoon, the deck was the place to be, not only for the breeze, but to see the properties along the banks, pleasure craft and locals enjoying the beaches along the Elbe River.

The new arrivals have their blue jackets, have done safety drill and enjoyed dinner. All are settled in for 'The Rivers of Western Europe' a journey south visiting ports in France, Spain, Portugal, Morocco, and the Canary Island of Lanzarote.

Moving toward Hamburg

At sea on our way to Hamburg.   The last day on board for this group of passengers, with lectures, bridge visit and waffles to enjoy. 

At his cocktail the Captain reported covering some 1900 nautical miles during this voyage. Guests have the chance to take the photographer CD record of 'Round UK'  home with them.  With so much packed into a handful of days, it is difficult to choose photos to show you on the blog, so here are a few more.

Expedition Team  'Round UK'

The South of England

Portsmouth was the port of call today. The nickname of Pompey, which is shared by the football team of this city, is thought to come from the old chart abbreviation of Portsmouth Point to POM P. For centuries, and still today, a major naval base for Britain, Portsmouth is also a major ferry terminal for continental routes. Passing through the port we viewed vessels as diverse as Admiral Lord Nelson's historic HMS Victory, HMS Warrior of 1860, modern Royal Navy aircraft carrier's, ferries of every size, hovercraft and even the Ffyes banana boat.

Enjoying unseasonally hot weather in the South of England guests travelled across the Hampshire County countryside to the megalithic site of Stonehenge, where there was an unexpected show of a flock of starling birds. Alternatively passengers had the option to visit the town of Winchester where the focus was a tour of the Cathedral which dates back to 1079.

No voyage on Fram is complete without the great show put on by the crew, and for "Round UK" this was the night.   It was a 'full house' in the Qilak Lounge.

Isles of Scilly

It is written Scilly but pronounced "silly". To avoid offending the residents say the Isles of Scilly never the Scilly Isles.



28 miles west-south-west of Land's End, Perfect weather greeted passengers landing from tenders onto the quay at Hugh Town, St. Mary's. The Duchy of Cornwall has held the title of these islands since 1337, though only 5 of 56 are inhabited.

 Although the largest island, St. Mary’s is less than three miles across at its widest part and only 10 miles around its coastline. The sand on some beaches is so fine that at one time it was exported and used to dry ink, that is before blotting paper was invented.

With Fram anchored between islands, barbeque lunch on deck 7 was surrounded by a stunning backdrop.

Second largest harbour in the world?

For centuries Cobh harbour has been an assembly point for naval fleets, readying for action. Thus the town thrived. Even more business came with it's role as a point departure for mass numbers of emigrants from Ireland from the mid nineteenth century on. Later again, it was an embarkation point for the first luxury liners crossing the Atlantic.

Locally they claim to be second only in size to Sydney -this may be contested - but it is certainly a fine natural harbour. The attractive town is located on the southern edge of the largest of several islands, the skyline dominated by the outline of St. Colman's cathedral.

Titanic set off on her fatal voyage from Cobh. It would have been possible for her to be in the harbour but the race to get her cargo of mail across the Atlantic as soon as possible meant that she was anchored outside for a rapid getaway. Passengers and post bags were tendered out to her.

Those walking with guides on the Titanic Trail around the town, heard many stories about of Cobh's personalities, visitors and its connection with naval matters. Finishing at Jack Doyles pub, hot Irish coffees were particularly welcome after thick fog and Irish mizzle all morning. (For those who are not familiar, Irish coffee is a mix of coffee and whiskey with a float of cream on top).

As we prepared to depart southern Ireland, local tenor Ryan Morgan put colour into a grey day with a solo performance in the Qilak Lounge. Fram was the last ship bringing visitors to Cobh this year, so she sent off by the Brass Band playing on the quayside as we sailed.

In Dublin's fair city, where the maid's are so pretty .....

The statue of Molly Malone set between Grafton Street and Trinity College features in any tour of Dublin centre. But at this time of year no one could have expected the beautiful weather conditions of today.

Passengers also scattered in different directions out of the city taking in the coastal scenery, and the gardens of the Powerscourt Estate, considered the finest in Ireland. Though still standing, some years ago a huge fire reduced the house to a shadow of its former self, but that loss is forgotten in the glory of the grounds.

Bernie's whiskies tonight were from the Bruichladdich which produces Islay's mildest. The distillery was mothballed between 1991 and 2000, then re-opened under the leadership of the most famous master distiller in Scotland - Jim McEwan.

Scotland - Isles to Mainland, then on to Northern Ireland

Again apologies, for a slow blog. If you, like this author, love to view the pictures as much as the text, please revisit these pages. Photographs will be uploaded as soon as possible.

A day on the Isle of Lewis, the largest of the Western Isles, brought us alternate bright sun and rain, with a magnificent rainbow over Stornoway as we departed.

Lews Castle was a feature of the view from Fram's mooring. Set back from the harbour front, the layout and planting of the massive grounds in the 19th century cost more than the construction of the building itself. Quantities of soil were important to enable the planting of trees, and those now magnificent specimens and their successors are to this day the only trees on the island.

Excursions explored the moorlands, peat bogs and lochs as well as crossing the 'border' to the Isle of Harris. Hand weaving of Harris Tweed was demonstrated, and there were visits to the Standing Stones at Callanish, the Black House Museum and the 2,000 year old dry stone fortified tower called Carloway Broch.

Nicknamed 'Gateway to the Isles' our next port was Oban, a sheltered harbour on the mainland offering many ferry services. Autumn colours were on show on scenic drives that were admittedly hampered by constant rain, but there were plenty of indoor sights to enjoy - the Duke of Argyll's residence at Inveraray, local pubs and continuing the whisky theme of this voyage - the Oban Distillery, one of the smallest producers.

Post dinner whisky tastings continued with three different samples from the same Glenfarclas Distillery. Established in 1836 and still family owned and run Bernie used their productions to demonstrate the differences in taste caused by ageing and alcohol content.

Moving south and with a piper's welcome, Belfast today brought us to the contrast of a bustling major city. Old blends with new architecture, shops, cafes, museums, and promenades. However, just minutes along the road the Antrim coastal scenery and Dunluce Castle beckoned. Walking, hopping, jumping along the UNESCO world heritage site of Giant's Causeway was the goal for many. This 6km stretch of extraordinary geological formations represents volcanic activity from 50-60 million years ago. 40,000 or so polygonal columns of basalt in perfect horizontal sections form a pavement out to sea. Thus rise the legends of giants striding their way to Scotland.

Apologies

Dear followers of FRAM's adventures,
we are currently experiencing trouble with our satellite equipment which had been replaced in Bergen. Apparently the configuration is a little trickier than the experts thought it to be.
We will continue with our online expedition diary as soon as the problems are fixed. Thank you for your patience!

Heading for the UK

We are under way again.

Bergen welcomed those arriving in the city for embarkation on Thursday with miserable heavy rain. Fortunately its true charm was revealed with sun lighting the hillsides shortly before departure.

After a slightly lumpy sea on their first night, yesterday was a day for passengers to relax, do puzzles, write postcards, and attend lectures given by the Expedition Team.

All this before an "Introduction into the World of whisky" from visiting Lecturer Bernie McGee. Witty banter accompanied instruction on getting the best out of a taste of whisky. Samples of different Malt's were tasted by all. Comparisons illustrated between South Scotland's Auchentoshan 11-year old light apertif, Speyside's sophisticated and complex 12-year old Mortlach and finally a smoky, peat monster was the description the Isle of Islay's "As we get it"

An empty ship is a busy ship

Bergen, the city which is said to be the most buzzing, the most historical - and the rainiest town in Norway. After three days in port, everybody clearly confirms that Bergen is fully living up to this reputation. However, there is no way not to like it. We all wish to spend more time. 

But, alas, we are not on holiday. There is a million things to be done, not a single department on the vessel remains untouched. Starting from bottom to top: The engine get's maintained and double-checked, the car deck is a maze of pallets, boxes and mysterious objects that we receive, big and small from luggage labels over jackets, spare parts up to entire Polar Cirkel Boats. There is a mountain of new cabin mattresses arriving, replacing the previous ones. Light bulbs get changed, the elevators overhauled, legions of external cleaning staff is dealing with every single corner in cabins, corridors, restaurant and lounge, even the leather of all the armchairs gets a brandnew finish. While FRAM takes in huge amounts of fuel and food, her outside gets the same thorough treatment.

Invisible for most is the complete renewal of some electronic and computer systems, many specialists are spending the whole days in front of their makeshift laboratory, in order to equip FRAM with a new and faster internet connection, telephone system and much more.

Certainly the crowning piece is the new satellite antenna, big as a lifeboat, that is carefully put on top of our ship, on a tailor-made steel mount that could carry a truck. And behold - we have internet! 

So, now we are waiting for arriving staff members - and our new guests. Tonight we will sail out for Scotland.

The story continues...

A Perfect Ending

Sunset in Nordfjordeid

Olden and Nordfjordeid

It was a beautiful sunny morning as we sailed into Nordfjord.  At 106km long it is the sixth longest fjord in Norway.  Our first stop was in the town of Olden. The population (2009) of Olden is approximately 480. 

Two bus loads of happy people departed the pier at 08:30 to visit Briksdal Glacier. Briksdal glacier is a part of the Jostedal glacier icefield, which is the largest glacier on the European mainland.  It is located about 25 kilometres (16 mi) south of Olden, at the end of the Oldedalen valley.

People had the option of hiking three kilometres from the parking lot or they could take “Troll cars” – which are sort of like Norwegian golf carts.  The hike to the glacier is really great along forested paths with beautiful waterfalls along the route.

Waterfall on hike to Briksdal Glacier

In the afternoon we cruised deeper into the fjord and at 16:30 dropped anchor outside of Nordfjordeid.  People were free to wander about the very pretty community on their own.  The Nordfjordeid Sunday flea market was still in full swing and we were invited to the local church for a performance by the choir.

Back on the ship we were treated to a barbeque on Deck seven.  It was a perfect way to end the cruise.  As we sat on the stern enjoying delicious food and great company, the sunset keep getting more and more dramatic as the sun sank below the horizon.

Briksdal Glacier

Our superb bbq!!!

Nordfjordeid

Ålesund and Geiranger

The view of Ålesund from Aksla mountain.

We had an early start today in Ålesund, the Venice of Norway.  Weather-wise it was our nicest day so far.  We had brilliant sunshine all day.

Ålesund is one of my favourite cities in Norway.  The water front area is beautiful and on a day like today it was great to just wander the streets and admire the  Art Nouveau architecture for which Ålesund is famous. 

One of the many splendid views on the long hike.

A lot of people went on a bus tour from Ålesund to our next port of call, Geiranger, where they met the ship again. Everyone had good things to say about the all-day tour. And why wouldn’t they?  They had perfect weather and some of the most amazing scenery in all of Norway.  Many people went on a walking tour of Ålesund while still others took a trip to the islands of Giske and Godøy which featured an old stone church built in 1150 and a beautiful old lighthouse.

Fram at anchor in Geiranger

We left Ålesund at 11:00 and arrived in Geiranger at 15:30.  That 4.50 hours of sailing was through some of the most spectacular scenery of our entire voyage! Geiranger is a Unesco World Heritage Site.  It is breath taking.  The small town is perched on the side of a well forested fjord that rises steeply from the sea.  Waterfalls cascade down the mountain. The leaves are just beginning to change colour as cool autumn takes a grip on the land.  There is fresh snow covering the mountain tops.

Sea kayakers returning to Geiranger.

Our day in Geiranger was sheer pleasure.  It seemed a Norwegian paradise.  Our timing was perfect.  It was a beautiful day and the tourist season is almost over.  Geiranger is one of the main tourist attractions in all of Norway. In peak season this stunningly beautiful community receives thousands of visitors daily. 

I was envious of those that took the opportunity to go sea kayaking.  The conditions could not have been better.

Brekstad

We are in Central Norway.  We had spectacular scenic cruising throughout the morning as we weaved our way through many narrow passages between countless islands in beautiful Stokksund.  At times the shore seemed no more than 30 or 40 metres from the ship.  The scenery here is more rural than rugged Norwegian Fjord frontier.  There is more agriculture evident now as we ply our way further south.  We see fields where the crops have been harvested and where cows are grazing.  

Not only was the scenic cruising really good in the morning but we also had the option of attending several lectures.  At 09:45 Tessa Van Dries told us all about everyone's favourite celestial light phenomena, the aurora.    At the same time Steffen Biersack gave  a lecture in German about the principles of navigation.  At 11:00 Andrew Wenzel gave an interesting talk entitled, Demons From Hell - Killer Whales. At the same time Ralf Westphal gave a fascinating talk in German about Haudegen, the last German Arctic weather station in the 2nd world war.

At 13:00 we dropped anchor just outside the charming small city of Brekstad.  It was a beautiful day.  A light breeze was blowing and the sun was shining through large gaps in the cloud cover.  The Brekstad Hotel and community cultural centre was open for us.  Inside there two different galleries for us to explore including a great exhibit featuring the famous Norwegian artist Hannah Ryggen.  The hotel offered us Aquavit to sample and a variety of Norwegian foods.  There was also lots of opportunity to explore the community on our own.

Several people went on a bicycle excursion along the shore line while others went on a motor coach tour of the area which culminated at Austrått Manor.

At 18:45 the last Polar Cirkel boat was back at the ship and Fram weighed anchor.

In the evening we were entertained by the crew singing some classical popular songs in the Observation Lounge.

Alstahaug and Vega

The Expedition Team at Alstahaug
(Photo © Joe Decker)

We are now south of the Arctic Circle.  We passed that significant point of latitude at 05:00 this morning.  Most of us were sleeping rather soundly.  About three hours later we arrived at Alstahaug a borough of approximately 7500 people spread over 917 islands and islets.  The landscape has changed from the high, craggy fjords of Raftsundet to many low lying islands.  

Inside the church in Alstahaug where Petter Daas the poet parson
worked.  (Photo © Joe Decker)

There isn't a pier for Fram in Alstahaug which meant of course that we would use the trusty Polar Cirkel boats to tender everyone in.  A light rain was falling when we arrived and continued on and off throughout the landing.  The stop here featured an old church which we could visit and the Petter Dass museum.

The church is one of only seven Northern Norwegian medieval churches that been preserved.  The church's initial construction was in the year 1200.  the oldest parts of the church are built in the Romanesque style with soapstone.

The Petter Daas museum in Alstahaug (Photo © Joe Decker)

Petter Daas was the parson poet that lived and worked in Alstahug from 1689 until his death in 1707. The museum was not open  but the building itself was a marvellous piece of architecture and the installation of the building quite a feat of engineering. 

The bucolic setting was very peaceful. Sheep grazed in a nearby field.  Glaucous Gulls soared along the sea side and Hooded Crows called back and forth.   One felt restful just being there.  It was easy to see where the great poet got some of his inspiration.

In the afternoon we stopped at the small community of Vega.  A light rain was falling as we rode the Polar Cirkel boats to a pier in a small marina.  Many people went on a motor coach tour to learn about the unique relationship between the Eider Ducks and generations of fishermen/farmers.  Over the last 1500 years the local people have harvested eider down.

There are 6500 islands in the Vega Archipelago.  These islands have a relaxing beauty that is quite different from the dramatic fjords we experienced earlier in the voyage.  Vega itself is a sleepy little community.  If you didn't choose to go on one of the local excursions there was a pleasant walk which led through the marina around the community and back to the pier again.   

At 20:00 we lifted anchor and once again turned our bow to the south.