MV FRAM EXPEDITION BLOG

Friday, 6 April 2012

Bumpy, but not so bumpy

At night, the Bay of Biskay finally awakes and some of us with her. Quite a few hefty shakes and jerks, accompanied by thundering noises. That's our brave ship, ploughing through the waves, needn't worry! Rather let yourself go, your bed's a cradle, and enjoy the rocking!

So the morning greets a sea day with a little more spice, but nonetheless the lectures are well attended. Especially the briefing for tomorrow, since it is going to be a special day - the English Channel Islands are the only place on this trip where we have the chance to use our Polar Cirkel Boats. That calls for instructions on how to get in and out, how to put your life jacket, how not to get your fingers squashed, how not to drop your camera in the water, and so on. You can tell by the silence of the audience that excitement is growing.

But only here and only now, apart from that it is a sea day after all. And so we focus again on two things, relaxing, even if the outer decks are a little windswept - and food. Again. But have a look at these fine dishes and you know why the expedition team has such satisfied grins in their faces.

To help a little with getting bigger, we introduce a surplus delicacy - in the middle of the afternoon the beguiling smell of waffles lures everybody into the observation lounge. Fresh and warm they are, worth a sin!

Oh, and not to forget the preparation for Easter! Many hands handle eggs and paint throughout the day, falling back into childhood days. Two days to go, time is speeding up.

Night has fallen, the sea calmed down, indicating the entrance of the English Channel. So off to bed, we're going to have an early start tomorrow!

Thursday, 5 April 2012

Call in Burdigala

It is still dark when FRAM reaches the pier of Bordeaux, the very, very old wine and intellectual (is there a connection?) capital of France. Evidence of this settlement reaches as far back as to the 3rd century BC, and ever since there were the Celts, the Romans, the Franconians, the Goths, the Normands and - very briefly - the Maures. The main reason was without a doubt the very convenient strategic location next to the river Garonne; due to its connection to the Gironde Estuary the changing of the tides is to be felt drastically here, the water is bubbling and foaming one way in the morning, and a couple of hours later foaming and bubbling just in the opposite direction. Boats can ride whatever way with hardly any effort. Well, we are more or less independent, only the lines have to be nice and tight here at the Port de la Lune, the moon harbor, named after the crescent-shaped river bend. As we lower the gangway, we are immediately the focus of interest of the Bordelais (as they are called). No wonder, for we are parked smack in the city centre, quite a sight for sore eyes. At sunrise the ship is cleared and the two excursions can leave. Of course they have to do with wine, the most prestigious vineyards of the world await! While one party explores the city centre, ending in a wine cellar, the longer one heads out into the areas of St. Emilion and Pomérol - ending in a wine cellar. It is kind of inevitable here, and many a good bottle is brought back to the ship, from Bordeaux Supérieur to even a Chateau Margaux, a real treat for rare house guests.

But you do not have to participate in an organized tour to enjoy this city, a walk through the old quarters with their stunning architecture from romanic to baroque style is certainly worth your time. The streets are lined with cosy little cafés, and even the weather is playing game. So everybody is thoroughly enjoying the hours, and only before we leave the clouds are rolling in. Lines are being cast and we are on our way - against the current.

At night it is clearly to be seen that each crew and staff member is chosen by their ability to move elegantly on the catwalk - it's fashion show...!

Wednesday, 4 April 2012

a stressful day at sea...

Well, aren't we just lucky...? Considering that the Bay of Biskay belongs to the roughest waters on the northern hemisphere, this minimalistic swell that we are experiencing is nothing - it's like a lake!

The morning hours spoil us with a tremendous display of clouds, those who happen to be out with their first morning tea stand there with their eyes closed, being caressed by a gentle breeze. What a nice moment to let the thoughts stray anywhere you like!

Apart from that, not much happening. So, no excuses today not to attend the lectures, and indeed there is a good interest to follow the numerous talks about things like European architecture, the world of the Celts, Earth's History, photography or marine ecosystems. Basically, it's the meals that punctuate a sea day, maybe followed by a nice cappuccino on deck 7, overlooking the quiet vastness around us, accompanied by Ralf's piano music. I know it sounds tough, but someone has to do it...

Well, we can still watch out for whales, since we are sailing in the realms of Europe's first whaling nations - the Basques. They were the early grandmasters of that rough and dangerous trade and so good at it that the Dutch and English hired them to go to Svalbard in the early 17th century. Not so unexpectedly, they were dismissed as soon as they had taught their art to their colleagues. Today whaling has no part anymore in these waters; but every now and then there might be a blow or a fluke. So, watch out.

After dinner - did I mention the meals? - there is a show going on in the Observation lounge: If you think the salad-and-tomato arrangement on your plate in a fancy restaurant is the pinnacle of decoration - think again. What our Philipino crew does to fruit, vegetable and ice is hardly rivaled and shows their wonderful imagination with these things that require true love for their work. Well done!

Tuesday, 3 April 2012

Of Saints and Fish

A complicated day lies ahead of us. Early in the morning we pull into Villa Garcia, already on the Spanish side of the Iberian Peninsula. In the first light of the day more than a hundred of our guests are getting off and into the busses bound for a destination of world fame - Santiago de Compostela, terminal leg of the Way of St. James, location of the tomb of the apostle Jakobus and place of pilgrimage for hundreds of thousands of people. Established as early as in the 11th century, the itinerary developed into a network spanning several countries in Europe. But they all end here, and so the excitement is great among those who finally get to see it.
As soon as the busses are gone, FRAM turns around and southwest again, in order to leave the Rio de Arousa, only to see a spectacular sight:

In this fish-eats-fish, man-eats-fish world, an abundance of resources is always welcome, and the mouth of the Rio de Arousa is swarming with fish and mussels. So we make our way in-between an armada of slender boats that is rocking quietly in the morning haze, waiting for the catch.

Later on, something strange happens - the ship is moving... A slight swell is noticeable, enough to make some of the remaining folks - well, considerate about food. You have to earn your sea-legs, but normally that happens quite fast.

Like a reward for the inconvenience the sun comes up and travels with us all the way to A Coruña in northern Spain, a very scenic town with an unmistakable charm, the architecture is a strange mix of baroque, Jugendstil and unique facades. All that very cosy, very warm in the pinkish hue of sunset.

Suddenly the ship is full again - the excursion to Santiago is back. Just in time to enjoy a delicious BBQ in the day's last sun on deck 7. They are telling stories about the magic of the place, about religious dances, good food and powerful light. What a splendid end of another long day!
Tomorrow we will be out at sea, no land, but certainly a few waves: We have to cross the Bay of Biskay in order to get to France. So, get ready for the ride!

Export Port ex Porto

Out of the mouth of River Tejo - and we are at sea. Following the traditions of this great former seafarer nation, we are sailing due West - where lies America. But as the famous Portuguese Christopher Colombus, we are not going to reach it - him because he mistook the Bahamas for the real thing, us because we take a sharp turn to our starboard side later on, for our next destination is much nearer by - Leixoes. There are many attempts of pronouncing it right, involving a lot of "sh" sounds. And not so many know the place, although it is the entrance to the second largest city in Portugal and one of the most important wine areas in the world - Porto. That's right, where the Port wine comes from...

Berthing next to the 3000 people carrier "Queen Victoria", we feel a little dwarfed, but happy. None of us wants to be on such a steel monster. Fortunately they are about to finish their land operation, so we will not have to race against 25 tour busses. That would be a shame because Porto, once you reach the old part is idyllic and beautiful. Narrow streets, patina on the roofs, and the omnipresence of the river Douro with its slender traditional boats which - instead of Port wine casks - bring people from the bank of the river to the wineries.
So the city excursion was a full success, and who would forgo a nice tasting of tawny Port...?
In the meantime a smaller group set off for a brand-new excursion to explore the source of the river Douro and the source of that famous wine that made Portugal a very, very rich nation in the past. And like back then almost all the production is meant for export.

A scenic bus ride brings us away from the buzzing city, deep into the hinterland of the Douro valley. The villages are nestled up against lush green hills that seem to never end, the buildings are hundreds of years old and seem to lean over to get a better view of the people passing by. Everything has a life of its own. No wonder people are very religious, and during our first stop in Amarante we hear an original story of Sao Gonçalo, the saint of the nearby church who was the protector of women. In general, but especially of young women who had a problem getting pregnant. So these women would come to the church and do things to the statue of Sao Gonçalo that would make a living man blush. I'll spare you the details, but apparently that worked: It is said that many of them succeeded. If not, they could always go to the local bakery and buy some of the traditional bread for their husband or fiancé. Decency forbids to show a picture of the bread here. Yes, you're guessing right... So the overall image is rather Pagan than Christian, and with this amusing information we carry on to our principal stop, Quinta da Pacheca, a vineyard overlooking the river Douro valley. A place of such a beauty that it enchants everybody on the spot.

After a tour around the premises with their huge granite basins where the grapes are still picked by women only and tread by men with bare feet, the immense chestnut casks as big as a cabin by the lake and the vast fields of vines, we assemble at a stately table for a multi-course, home-made dinner with a variety of most delicate local dishes. Wine and Port included, of course. So when we finally have to get back to the bus, people move a little more heavily but with a satisfied grin.
A full hour takes us back, and more than one head is bobbing during the ride. We arrive just in time to board, and now we are out at sea, heading north again.

Monday, 2 April 2012

Farewell from Lisbon

Untie! Let go! We cast the lines!

Lisbon is the departure point for our Easter Cruise, the wonderful, vibrant city with so much to see. And so much to eat! Strolling through the narrow streets, your nostrils pick up the scents of most delightful fish, goat, lamb and whatever dishes, which mix beautifully with the exotic odors that emerge from the ground after the first drops of rain here after an extremely dry winter. These are smells we don't have in the North. Whoever had the pleasure of being here for an overnight or more will certainly also have noticed the biggest demonstration Portugal has ever seen. In a good way, it was more or less a kaleidoscope of Portugal's every region's folklore and tradition, trying to encourage the government not to proceed with the federalistic policy. So there was music, costumes and a pretty cheerful atmosphere.

Next morning, FRAM arrived after the long crossing over the seas from Buenos Aires. You could easily tell who was on it and who was not, tanned equator faces vs. white early springtime faces...

In the afternoon, the guests arrived in several tiers, ready for colorful Western Europe. After checking in, getting the expedition jacket, and our mandatory safety drill, the great moment of leaving, waving the shore good-bye. Not for long though, because tomorrow around lunchtime we will be arriving in Leixoes, the gateway to Porto.

The traditional welcome drink and speech of the Captain was met with a little exhaustion after a long day but huge smiles showing that everybody is looking forward to exploring Portugal, Spain, France, and England before we get to Bremerhaven in ten days from now. To all of you: Have a pleasant, exciting and unique voyage!