Memo to Bear:

Our apologies as we neglected to inform you of our morning’s plans at Gåshamna.  No doubt it was quite a surprise when you saw so many people standing on the beach when you walked down from the moraine.  Once we realized that you were there first we made haste to leave the beach so as not to disturb your privacy.  Upon reflection we can imagine your disappointment when the colourful blue and red buffet hopped into small boats and fled the scene.  We do however think it a little unreasonable that you followed us by swimming to the next beach to which we had evacuated.  Furthermore it seemed more than a little aggressive that you would further challenge us by walking the 2km to the west and then take over our main landing site. 

This morning we split everyone into two groups at two different landing sites.  Starting at 09:00, the hikers landed first about 2 km to the east of the main landing site at Gåshamna.  Once they were on their merry way, the remainder of the Expedition Team prepared the main landing site and by 10:00 the first blue jackets dotted the expansive plain.  It wasn’t much more than 30 minutes into the landing when we got the call to evacuate. Apparently the hikers to the east of us had encountered a bear.  They had already abandoned their site and the bear was steadily moving to our location.

The Expedition Team very efficiently cleared everyone from the landing site in a brief thirty minutes.  Sure enough, once everyone was safely on board Fram the bear strolled down the entire length of the beach we had just occupied!

Here follows the actual report of what transpired on the hiker’s beach.

The hike sets off at the flanks of a small, but very beautiful glacier, the Körberbreen. Since FRAM drops anchor far away we are ferried over with the Polar Cirkel Boats in two tiers, which gives us the time to clamber up the little moraine and get a good view on the bluish wall of ice.

Just as we have everybody on the narrow path a Polar Bear appears out of nowhere at the foot of the moraine where he must have been dozing behind a rock. After a few steps he stops for a moment, obviously to study us. And then he walks towards us...

That requires action. While everybody makes it down the moraine and back to the beach, two things happen: The boats are called back to the beach for fast evacuation, and we ready our flare guns. Since the bear keeps coming at the group, the first flare is fired - no reaction. These things are really, really loud and usually one is enough to scare the animal away. Not this time. More flares, not a flinch!

Finally the boats arrive and start bringing people away. Now the bear takes to the water, but instead of leaving he starts swimming towards our beach. Bugger!

Fortunately the boats distract him more than the flares did, so with the help of the boats we can buy us some time. Since FRAM is far away we quickly bring everybody to a nearby bay as a first step, in order to do a "normal" evacuation from there. The bear swims away now, had enough of us, as it seems.

As we all are in the boats, relief sets in and a lot of laughter is heard about this spectacular morning show. But isn't it the hallmark of a good horror movie that the villain comes back after the Happy Ending…? Just as we are down to the last two boat loads on the second beach, the very same bear appears on the far end of said beach. He must have run the whole way to be here in such a short time! He gets as close as 60 metres now, obviously uncertain what to do. But somehow, sometimes, instincts wake up in an otherwise very determined animal. Maybe he finally felt that red jackets with rifles are not good food, maybe the last bang of our flares finally got into his thick skull - he now decided to keep distance and finally trotted away from us.

While the regular landing was going on in the far distance of Gåshamna we went parallel to the shore to keep an eye on the bear. And believe it or not, now he sped up to about 5 knots - in the direction of Gåshamna...

That means full evacuation, because at that speed he will be there in under half an hour. About 100 people have to be shuttled back to the ship. That takes a while. And again, timing turns out to be on our side, as the last of our guests hop into the boat, the bear, the relentless, stubborn, probably very hungry bear, arrives on the shores of Gåshamna. This time we wave him good-bye. All of us - we are definitely out of reach now.

What an exciting way to start the day!

Then, at 13:30, we were enjoying scenic cruising in Brepollen when another bear was spotted lying peacefully on the shore.  This was another large male.  It got up as we approached, stretched, yawned and then plopped back down again, obviously not bothered by Fram’s stealthy approach. 

We stopped to admire the bear for a few minutes and then continued to Burgerbukta.  This was the first time landing at this really splendid site.  We were surrounded by glaciers.  A trail was flagged up the ridge of lateral moraine that bordered glaciers on both sides.  The trail continued in a very large loop to where we could actually walk on the glacier!

When we got back to the beach we were then treated to a cruise in the Polar Cirkel boats to one of the glacier fronts deep in the bay.

As if that weren’t enough, when we arrived at the ship there was a sumptuous barbeque on deck seven.  A perfect day!

Bear with me!

A journey that is named "In the Realm of the Polar Bear" puts quite a bit of pressure on everybody who is on the delivering side of the trip: The officers on the bridge slowly get red marks around their eyes from the binoculars they use all the time, keen sea men are scanning the shorelines, and the expedition team uses every free moment to watch the area, be it from the bridge, from every possible window or ashore. So far it was a dashing trip with wonderful wildlife, but now everybody wants him - the King. Where is the Bear...?!! Please...?

At 7:20h in the morning, a BingBong goes into all the cabins (everybody who has traveled with us ever knows what I mean). This can only mean one thing! And really, Karin's voice is full of excitement when she announces from the bridge - Polar Bear!

OK, in the distance, not so close, but a bear!

Just before we go back to our cabins, or to breakfast - BingBong! This time it's two bears, mother and a cub, much closer, too. Only now the relief sets in, the Realm of the Polar Bear has actually Polar Bears to offer. It is a totally different thing to know that they are there, and to see them.

This also creates a new sensation ashore: Now everybody feels the presence of the animals, they are literally just around the corner. We are feeble humans in the presence of the strongest land predator, and the fresh vigilance of the hikers is tangible as we set out to climb up the ridge. However, there is one obstacle on the way, the mud fields that have gained a reputation of being a boot grave. And apparently the last couple of days have seen plenty of rain, which is not only unusual, but also turned the already muddy plains into a big swamp. Fast, tiny steps, don't stop, don't help, this is the recipe to get across. The thing with all recipes in the world is that they might go wrong the first time. The swamp is taking its toll. A bit later we are a lot muddier, some boots are wet from the inside, but we are still happy and relieved, and we certainly have learned the pitter-patter walk...

In the meantime Manuel found Polar Bear No. four...

It is a very, very skinny fellow,  about a mile away. So there is no need to abort the hike at all. On the contrary, once we reach the first plateau we actually have prime seats to watch the animal ambling in the far side of the wide valley beyond, across the deep green of the tundra mosses. A beautiful sight, which we enjoy in awe, before we return to the mountain walk.

Up and up it takes us, until we reach a cairn in lofty 260 metres above the departure point, sporting a huge tripod with a webcam. This rather unexpected arrangement belongs to the Norwegian Polar Institute and provides valuable data about weather and ice conditions. Today it probably sends a quite surprising image to the far away screens; happy hikers assembling for a group picture, in front of a splendid overview over the bay and FRAM out at anchor.

The way back is downhill all the way, so we make it in no time, all hikers are steeled after almost a week of daily exercise. Just before we git the plains again, we literally stumble across a big fat male reindeer, antlers red from shedding the protective skin at the end of the season. They have to be ready for winter soon, and they do look in very good shape.

Without getting stuck, we make it back to the landing site, definitely time for lunch now. All are hungry like, well, like a bear...

The rest of the day is a welcome mix of lectures, relaxing, and the staff's Fashion Show in the evening. Many had been on a hike every single day, so a little break won't hurt, will it?

Hikes, Kittiwakes and Walruses

08:00 standing on shore at Kinnvika, 4˚C, a gnawing wind again and no one complained about the cold, or the wind.  Indeed, who would expect any different on September 2nd at N 80˚04’?  The first group of 45 people to hit the beach were those that had opted for an Arctic hike.  The terrain at Kinnvika is barren, barren even for Svalbard.  Scattered mosses, lichens and various vascular plants struggled with a tenuous grip on the lunar-like landscape.  The hike led up from the beach to a lofty cairn most likely put in place during the 1st international geophysical year in 1957 - 58.  It was the largest scientific effort the world had ever seen.

There were magnificent views from our highest vantage point of 140 m.  We continued on out to a small lake at the base of a plateau where we paused for a rest.  Steffen, our Geologist used the pause to tell us about the interesting about the rocky wonders surrounding us. 

The hike took two hours to complete and was just under 8 km.

The non-hikers were free to explore a very large area around the buildings of Kinnvika.  Nine of the eleven buildings they constructed for the 1st International Geophysical Year still stand today and some of them were opened up so we could inspect inside.  The men stationed at here were studying many things including geomagnetism, atmospheric chemistry, observations of the sun, the ionosphere, aurora and cosmic rays.  They were a small but important part of a global research project involving 60,000 scientists from 60 nations.

This was our most northerly landing.  To mark that occasion mainly people chose to go for a quick dip in the Arctic Ocean.  I was impressed that so many people would brave the cold wind, strip down to their bathing suits or shorts (or whatever ;)   and then slowly tread into the water.  I say slowly tread because the rocks were sharp and hard on the bare feet.  The whole thing was some sort of masochistic torture if you ask me.

 In the afternoon we cruised along the incredible sea bird cliffs of Alkefjellet from the comfort of Fram.  The water was deep where the cliffs met the sea enabling us to come very close to the rock face.  It is late in the season and many of the birds have already gone out to sea.  Still, there were lots of Kittiwakes flying about the cliff face and perched on innumerable ledges.  The Kittiwakes always seem the last ones to leave.

At 18:00 we approached a low sandy beach at Torellneset where three groups totalling about sixty male walruses were hauled out in tight thigmotactic clusters.  To have such an extraordinary opportunity to witness these splendid animals in such a wild and remote location was indeed a very special privilege.

After about half an hour - 45 minutes, one of the smaller groups of Walruses broke up and entered the sea.  The other two groups - one of about 8 walrus and the other at least 45 Walruses seemed unconcerned with our presence.

There were also many walruses patrolling the beach and at the end of the landing a group of 8 curious animals approached us very closely from the sea.  There were two large adult males and six young juveniles.  They followed us as we walked slowly back to the landing site. To say it was an amazing experience would be a great understatement!

At 21:00 the last Polar cirkel boat left the beach.  Despite the cold rain that fell throughout the landing, for many people Torellneset and the incredible Walruses were the highlight of the trip thus far.

Wood you, or wood you not...

If someone invited you to a place which is not only situated in the middle of nowhere, but at the northern end of an island 1500 kilometres north of the North Cape, in order to spend a winter without electricity at a mere 35° below, no running water and any amenities of modern life, instead surrounded by hungry polar bears and constantly swept by terrible, icy winds that can kill you in no time - would you accept...?

Well, the answer is not such an obvious NO! as one should think if it comes to the shores of today's morning destination - the Woodfjord. 

There is no place in Svalbard's North that has attracted more people in the last decades. Surely one of the most well-known is Christiane Ritter, whose book about a woman experiencing the Arctic winter has been translated into seven languages and gives a very personal and philosophical account of the mental strain that can be converted into sheer admiration for the roughness of this environment. "Bring toothpaste for one year", was what her husband wrote before she left to meet him up in Gråhuken.

The legendary Norwegian hunter Hilmar Nøis set up a hut at Mushamna. Hauke Trings, German physicist and well-known author, nourishing the theory that life sprang initially from the ice, spent one winter in Mushamnabukta after his sailing boat froze into the ice.

Mushamna is also the location of probably the most luxurious trapper house in the whole of Svalbard. Buildt by the stubborn trapper Kjell Hovelsrud next to Nøis' hut, it features several extra sturdy buildings, all made from driftwood, a lofty meat rack and the smallest blockhouse in the Arctic - the toilet.

In this historic setting we start with two groups of early morning hikers on a brisk walk far inland, across the plains and into the wide open valleys that display a zebra pattern of snow patches and dark soil that shines magically in the morning light. For nearly three hours we go exploring in this amazing country, followed by Arctic Skuas, watched by Barnacle Geese and engulfed in the sound of many rivulets that criss-cross the valleys.

Upon return, a wonderful surprise is waiting for us: A Polar Fox has decided to take a nap right under our noses, and totally unabashed by the people around he lies there curled up and ready for us to take pictures. And the occasional yawn shows us that he really is sleeping, nothing more.

It is only a short leg over to Liefdefjorden, and the weather is magically holding, although many times it seems like the clouds are starting to pour down on us. The light are actually perfect for going out in the ice. And that is exactly what we do, two miles from the vast Monaco glacier we lower the boats to the water and start an ice cruise in front of a 45m wall of blue. The intense colour indicates fresh calving activity, and indeed it doesn't take long until the first walls of ice collapse right in front of us. The thunder is frightening, a big splash wave radiates from the impact, but we are of course in a safe distance, so we can admire this powerful spectacle undistracted.

Light and shadow play with us, thunder and ice. It is indeed a festival for all senses.

Few hours later:

In the twilight of the beginning dark season we suddenly hear weird noises over the loudspeakers on board, like the mixture of grunting, breaking toothpicks and sipping Martini. This is a recording of a male walrus under water, and the reason for this strange soundscape is coming up in front of us - Moffen island. This heap of scree in the middle of the ocean offers just the right angle for walruses to haul out, so the chance of seeing them is pretty high. And there they are, lazily clustered on the beach, hardly moving but unmistakable with their bright tusks. A group of maybe 15 animals is being photographed a lot tonight. For quite some time we stay with them, until we have to set course towards East, continuing our journey into the wild.