Las Islas Fortunas

Heard the name before? The Happy Islands? You do know them, for sure - they are nothing else than the archipelago nowadays known as the Canary Islands. The name has been used for a long, long time and was coined by the Phoenicians when they found in them not only a good place for trade, but an array of peaceful, sunny and mild pieces of land, emerging from the blue seas.

Well, that's just how we see them today, as we reach Lanzarote, second oldest of these - geologically speaking - youngsters: Only 15 million years ago the ocean boiled and steamed before huge clouds of ash were ejected into the skies - an island is born. And should you think that's a thing from the past - think again. The activity is far from over, that's what the guides show us on the excursion to the island's south, which includes a fancy ride on a camel through an unearthly landscape of barren beauty. You wouldn't be surprised to see a mars rover whirring round the corner (just imagine how the guys at NASA would rub their eyes when their images suddenly showed people on camels…).

You really get an idea of the thinness of the layer of crust that separates us from the inner forces of our planet, when a bundle of grass immediately ignites in a hole that is just under two meters deep. The following bus ride through the National Park of Timanfaya, where the Devil is the icon created by Cesar Manrique, is as spectacular as it gets, its like a roller coaster ride through a wild Earth from underneath. 

However, wild and violent is not the first impression that you get when you leave the ship here in Arrecife, everything is breathing the air of holiday and the pace is wonderfully relaxed. You can even take a submarine - a real one, it's even yellow - to go for a 34 meter dive to see ship wrecks and fish, fish, fish.

The whole day we spend here, and towards the evening we crown the day with a barbecue on the outer decks. Munging on a tasty steak while watching the sunset behind the volcanoes - unique!

Alas, this evening means also packing - tomorrow a long and colourful voyage comes to an end, the last trip on the northern hemisphere for this year. Thanks to all who made this time so worthwhile!!

The impossible task

How to describe 1001 nights in a few lines? How to capture the Orient, the unfathomable mysteries of this ancient world? How to make you hear the screams of the water traders, or the thousand sounds of the Jemal El F'naa, the Grand Market Place in the heart of the Medina of Marrakech? How to make you smell the bouquet of incense, fruit, freshly tanned leather, donkey's droppings, Henna, all the oils from all these nuts and almonds, wood, sweat, and tobacco, all wafting through the impossibly large labyrinth of the Souks?

The throngs, the noise, the chaos, the delights for the senses?

There is only one way - you have to see, smell, touch for yourself… Sorry, folks! But to give you a clue about the overnight fairy tale we had the pleasure to be part of, here are a few images of the overland ride, of donkey carts in vast plains, of ornaments so rich they make you marvel at their beauty for a long time, of peaceful courtyards in abandoned palaces, endless rows of sparkling lamps, all crafted by old weathered hands, and finally also about a Marrakech that is transforming under the rule of a young king, transforming into a well-known image of modern times… The miracle, however, remains.

Casablanca Rabat Marrakech

With the clock shifted backwards another hour we could really enjoy our arrival in the harbour of Casablanca. Already before breakfast many guests were standing on the outer decks hoping to get a glimpse of the Hassan II Mosque appearing at the horizon. The harbour was buzzing with activity, many small fishing boats came back from a early morning fishing trip. Today we had the possibility to visit either Casablanca, Rabat or Marrakech. The Marrakech group will stay overnight, so from that tour we will get the report tomorrow. Casablanca is the biggest city of Morocco, with over 5 million inhabitants. It is as well Morocco's main port and is considered the economic and business center of Morocco. Rabat is political capital city of Morocco and is situated around 96 kilometer north of Casablanca. The Medina in Rabat is surrounded by wonderful 16 km long city wall. The city was founded by Almohad dynasties in the 12th century which was one of the Berber dynasties. For the guests that never have been in Morocco before it was a treat to explore the markets and look at all the colorful shoes, lamps, clothes, spices and other goods for sale. The main highlight of Casablanca is the Hassan II Mosque. The mosque is a building of superlatives. Compared to other mosques it always ranges among the first ten on Earth, depending on what you compare. Just the prayer hall measures 20.000 square meters which gives space for 25.000 prayers. The outside area of the mosque takes another 80.000. Or imagine doing your ritual cleaning before praying in a 6.000 square meter hamam.The mosque is build half above water, and the roof can be opened. So praying can be done while being connected to the water - where Gods throne is - and heaven as well. . 

The construction of the mosque took seven years with 2.500 workers on the construction site. And around 10.000 craftsmen and artists as well who worked for example on 67.000 square meters of stucco and 10.000 square meters of mosaic. Small pieces of glazed tiles in different colors form 80 different patterns in typical Arab style. Just one more figure to end with. The Minaret is 210 m high which is the highest on Earth. There are many more figures that could characterize the Hassan II Mosque but none of them is suitable to describe how startled basically everyone is how sees the mosque for the first time. The architect and the workers created a place that is in fact beyond any words and figure

Algarve

Today we had the chance to explore the Algarve coast of Portugal. We arrived in the city of Portimao early morning. Again our excursion buses were standing ready on the pier. The local guides waiting for us patiently, but eager to show us their region. The Algarve region lies in the South of Portugal and is famous for its beaches and beautiful coastline. In the western part you have fine golden beaches everywhere along the coastline, often lyingbetween high cliffs. One of this beaches was lying actually just 20 minutes from the place we were docked. Praia da Rocha has a length of 4 kilometers and numerous restaurants and bars in the vicinity. Many guests found their way to this beach and some even took a dip in the ocean. A little chilly at first but With a sea temperature at around 20 degrees not bad at all! The walking possibilities are very nice in this area too. Steffen, from the expedition team, tried out a new hike that goes along Praia da Rocha and then over the cliffs to other secluded beaches and cliffs. Definitely an option for next time! Cape St. Vincent is the southwestern most point of Portugal with far views to both sides. It was almost possible to see Africa and America from there... For our German guests it was possible to buy the last 'Bratwurst' before America! Some actually did and received a certificate for it.

The lighthouse on Cape St. Vincent is garding one of the busiest shipping areas in the world, it is also a landmark for the ships traveling to or from the Mediterranean. The cliffs at the Cape rise vertically from the Atlantic up to 75 meters high. After this relaxed day we make our way to Africa!

Globes and ropes in Lisboa

A dark, misty morning sees us rolling into the river Tejo, entrance to Portugal's capital, Lisbon. Or, better, Lisboa: The name translated means "Lovely Bay" in Portuguese and gives the reason for the long and colourful history of the town in a nutshell. Not less than 3000 years ago the Phoenician traders were the first to discover the advantages of the location and founded a settlement/trading point there. Much later, the Greeks would follow, then the Romans, the Visigotes, the Maures, the Templar Knights - literally every important nation of the Antique settled, conquered, built, modified this city. The heterogeneity of the architecture is the most prominent witness for that; here we have the labyrinthic alleys and winding streets of the Baixa, seeming randomly cut into the assembled houses, now lined with local shops and bars, there the neo-gothic buildings of the times of the first Portuguese Republic. The core of the old city centre is entirely different again: After the devastating earthquake of 1755 it was here that the Marquis de Pombal delivered his chef-d'oeuvre, reconstructing the town in a very short time, creating more space and making it safer against future earthquakes.

All this you can discover walking from our pier, which is more or less around the corner, or by joining the bus excursions, one going more into Lisboas details (and joining a Fado show for lunch), the other one heading for Sintra, summer refuge of the Royalty and the Royalty's Loyals. Especially King Manuel is to be mentioned, great promoter of the Portuguese navigation school and creator of a very distinct building style ("Manuelinic"), featuring the masonry depiction of a lot of maritime details, like ropes and knots, ship's bows and so forth. His influence made Portugal to the leading seafarer nation of the 15th century; but is was certainly the head of the navigation school who provided the knowledge and the training for the country's captains - Henry the Navigator. Although he never took to sea himself he accumulated the greatest skills in his person, so every navigator who came out of his school was up to all imaginable tasks. In 1960 the great monument Padrão dos Decobriementos was erected to remember this brilliant mind who died 500 years before.

The palace of Sintra is not one of those which make you sick of gold and gems, it is rather low key in the choice of materials. But the overall arrangement is so exquisite and tasteful that you are immediately captivated by the beauty of the place. Sintra itself is sitting in the immensely green and lush slopes of the surrounding mountains, a real little paradise.
Back to Lisboa, a city walk is the contrast to the peacefulness of Sintra, the city is buzzing and noisy and busy - but charming. The street cars are moving relics of the old days, the churches realms of silence, the streets a woven network of people, goods, food, and smiles.
Seems the only sad tune today were the melodies of the Fado...

Portugal Oporto Port

This morning we arrived around 8 o 'clock in the harbour of Lexious, which is part of the town Matosinhos. Matosinhos lies around 10 km's from the city Oporto. When entering the harbour we could enjoy a beautiful sunrise. It is always exiting to stand on deck when entering a new harbour, today we were passing several fishing boats surrounded with numerous birds. From the pier two excursions were leaving strait away. One whole day excursion with destination Douro valley and one shorter excursion to the city Oporto. Both excursions had as central themes the river Douro and Port wine. Port wine is produced exclusively in the Douro valley in the Northern provinces of Portugal. The scenery is spectacular in this region. Part of the excursion was a wonderful lunch in the winery of Quinta da Pacheca. During the city tour of Oporto we got to know a lot of facts about the people living there. Did you know that the Portugees eat twice the amount of fish then the average European! They catch a lot of fish also! After Japan and Iceland Portugal is the biggest fishing nation. In the centre of town we visited the cathedral and the Sao Bento Railway Station. After that we had a nice cruise on the river Douro with a Rabelo boat, once used to transport the barrels of wine from the Douro region down to the wine cellars in Gaia. We sailed under the numerous bridges crossing this river, and we had fantastic views on both sides. We ended our tour with a visit to a port wine cellar. Here we tasted two different kinds of port wine. First we tried the white port wine, made from white grapes and then we tried a glass of ruby port wine, made from red grapes. Both very tasty! Unfortunately we didn't get the opportunity to try the tawny port which is also made from red grapes and are aged in wooden barrels. At 16 o'clock we left Oporto and we are sailing South towards the capital of Portugal, Lissabon!

Oh, A Coruña...!

Or is it "La" Coruna…? Or "O" Coruña??
Never mind, you'd only be supposed to know about these things if you apply for an administration job here in Galicia. Then you have to pass a test in their local language, Gallego, which is a mix of Portuguese spelling and Spanish pronunciation. So, the right answer has to be "A" Coruña. Traditions are living up again here in the north-western corner of the Iberian peninsula, even the kids at school are being brought up with their ancestors language. The reason is only partly romantic, but has also a political and economical side: The general crisis forced quite a number of citizens, who couldn't compete with the tighter market, out in the countryside again where they still had fields and a house to take up old-fashioned, but self-sustained work again. That brings back the old times alright. And there's elections coming up and of course the swing to the old values is a great wave to surf upon, at least in the eyes of the candidates. 

History is strong here, has been for a long, long time. Certainly the most spectacular and - by function - most visible monument for that is the Hercules Tower, the oldest lighthouse in the world. Built by the Romans already around the year AD 180, its structure is still standing, be it with a few outside reparations in the 19th century. And it is still in use, still showing ships the way in the dangerous waters near Cap Finisterre, now equipped with a modern LED, replacing the oil lantern of the old, very old days.
The Celts were here, the Maures, Napoleonic Wars were fought, only the second World War somehow left this spot out, so most of the beautiful houses with their characteristic glass verandas are still there. They were built from surplus material of the shipyards and proved to be very useful to keep the humidity out of the apartments. And moist it is, here, on this spit in the sea, warm and mellow. 

In finest weather conditions the excursions leave to various places, top address obviously being Santiago de Compostela, destination of millions of pilgrims from all around the world, who come to see the place where the bones of St. James are buried. Not millions, but thousands seem to be here today, now imagine the throng in summertime…! However, the magic of this place doesn't fail to enchant all who saw it, and the - very rare! - swinging of the huge incense bowl is a big event.

Quite a bit more peaceful the village of Betanzos, where flowers bloom and the soft autumn light is perfect for getting a shot of the Franciscan's church, where the odd relation between cross and pigs, or rather wild boars, is reflected in many a stone mason's work.

Seems we have spent the best part of the day ashore, as soon as we leave port clouds are closing in, and toward the evening the familiar pitching of the ship sets in; today, however, most of us have already earned their sea legs and don't care so much.
The dolphins out there have fun, too, frolicking around FRAM and jumping in great numbers. Dusk comes early here in the South, so the ship calms down after dinner.
Tomorrow: Next port, next country - Portugal, here we come...