Holidays under a clear blue sky

The day started with an extraordinary sunrise around 6.45h. For a short while the color of the sky changed from orange to red and violet. The dawn is a very short occurrence in this region. You have the feeling that someone switches the light on in the morning and switches it off in the evening. So you must be there at the right time with your camera to get the picture.

Photo Benny Didriksen

Photo Benny Didriksen

Later in the morning after breakfast we had our first lecture on this cruise. Friederike spoke about seabirds and invited us to a trip around the world. Hopefully we will see some seabirds during the crossing with our own eyes.

As the weather was so nice again we spent a lot of time outside on the open decks.

FriedaPhoto

But nobody wanted to miss the “teatime with the expedition team” in the lounge at 16.00h. It was nice to sit together for interesting talks and of course to enjoy the nice cakes and cookies.

FriedaPhoto

In the evening we had a BBQ again. Nobody was thinking at this time about the cool and wet weather at home. We had a summer feeling and enjoyed really every minute.

FriedaPhoto

We are sailing!

Our first day on board was a quiet day. The sea was very smooth and so we had time to find our own rhythm on the boat.

After our first breakfast on board we got our blue expedition jacket. It is a very nice gift but everybody hoped that we will not need the jacket on this trip. The temperature outside was app. 25°C and we believe that the temperature will even rise during the next days.

Most of us spent the later morning on the open decks. It was wonderful to have a rest under the blue sky and watch only the movement of the clouds.

During lunchtime it became a little bit warm outside. It was just the right time to go to the restaurant where our chef had prepared a wonderful buffet for us and the crew.

At 14.00 we have been invited by our Captain Arild Hårvig to a bridge visit. He spent a lot of time to explain us the technique on board. Afterwards we felt like real seamen.

In the afternoon we had our first “Teatime” with the expedition team. We had a very relaxed afternoon talking and listening with tea and of course coffee also. The baker prepared a wonderful cake and cookie buffet for us. We should not think about the calories we get during the day, but it is good to know, that there is a nice fitness hall on board. Hopefully this will help a little bit.

As the weather was good we had a very nice BBQ in the evening. It became dark very early and many of us stayed outside until the first stars showed up at the sky.

When we booked this trip we thought that we will have so much time onboard and perhaps we have been also afraid that it could become a bit boring too, but at the end of our first day we recognized that the day could have had even 25 hours. We enjoyed every minute and we are looking forward to the next day.

   

We left the land behind!

MV FRAM is a ship that is built especially for polar waters. Most times of the year the ship is operating in the Arctic or in Antarctica. But there are always some activities in between. After the Arctic season the ship has to sail from the North to the South in September and October and of course in April and May it has to be brought to the North again after the Antarctic season.  On the way to the South or to the North, Hurtigruten offers wonderful European cruises and from now on it is also possible to join the so called “crossing” from Las Palmas to Buenos Aires, or the other way around.

And today we started our crossing, this special tour over the Atlantic. In 19 days we hope to reach Buenos Aires. We leave the autumn in the northern hemisphere behind and we are looking forward to the spring in the southern hemisphere. We are only a small group of 27 passengers but we have our own expedition team with us. Everything seems to be very relaxed. We were welcomed in a friendly way and our cabins were already prepared when we arrived in the afternoon.

After the mandatory passengers mustering we left Las Palmas around 8.00pm. We will not see land for the next weeks until we will reach Buenos Aires. We said good bye to the last trees in the harbor area and the last pigeon. We will not see any plants before we will reach South America, but we hope for some birds.

During the crossing we will have our meals together with the crew in the restaurant. That will be a new but also a nice experience for all of us. But it is always nice to enjoy good food together with other people. We will know each other better after a while and perhaps we will even find new friends.

In the evening the Captain invited us to a welcome cocktail. For us it was funny to see that there is more crew than passengers on board.

As the weather was so nice we walked around on the open decks before we went to bed. The first day is always a little bit hard. But tomorrow we will feel better after a good sleep in our nice cabins.

Las Islas Fortunas

Heard the name before? The Happy Islands? You do know them, for sure - they are nothing else than the archipelago nowadays known as the Canary Islands. The name has been used for a long, long time and was coined by the Phoenicians when they found in them not only a good place for trade, but an array of peaceful, sunny and mild pieces of land, emerging from the blue seas.

Well, that's just how we see them today, as we reach Lanzarote, second oldest of these - geologically speaking - youngsters: Only 15 million years ago the ocean boiled and steamed before huge clouds of ash were ejected into the skies - an island is born. And should you think that's a thing from the past - think again. The activity is far from over, that's what the guides show us on the excursion to the island's south, which includes a fancy ride on a camel through an unearthly landscape of barren beauty. You wouldn't be surprised to see a mars rover whirring round the corner (just imagine how the guys at NASA would rub their eyes when their images suddenly showed people on camels…).

You really get an idea of the thinness of the layer of crust that separates us from the inner forces of our planet, when a bundle of grass immediately ignites in a hole that is just under two meters deep. The following bus ride through the National Park of Timanfaya, where the Devil is the icon created by Cesar Manrique, is as spectacular as it gets, its like a roller coaster ride through a wild Earth from underneath. 

However, wild and violent is not the first impression that you get when you leave the ship here in Arrecife, everything is breathing the air of holiday and the pace is wonderfully relaxed. You can even take a submarine - a real one, it's even yellow - to go for a 34 meter dive to see ship wrecks and fish, fish, fish.

The whole day we spend here, and towards the evening we crown the day with a barbecue on the outer decks. Munging on a tasty steak while watching the sunset behind the volcanoes - unique!

Alas, this evening means also packing - tomorrow a long and colourful voyage comes to an end, the last trip on the northern hemisphere for this year. Thanks to all who made this time so worthwhile!!

The impossible task

How to describe 1001 nights in a few lines? How to capture the Orient, the unfathomable mysteries of this ancient world? How to make you hear the screams of the water traders, or the thousand sounds of the Jemal El F'naa, the Grand Market Place in the heart of the Medina of Marrakech? How to make you smell the bouquet of incense, fruit, freshly tanned leather, donkey's droppings, Henna, all the oils from all these nuts and almonds, wood, sweat, and tobacco, all wafting through the impossibly large labyrinth of the Souks?

The throngs, the noise, the chaos, the delights for the senses?

There is only one way - you have to see, smell, touch for yourself… Sorry, folks! But to give you a clue about the overnight fairy tale we had the pleasure to be part of, here are a few images of the overland ride, of donkey carts in vast plains, of ornaments so rich they make you marvel at their beauty for a long time, of peaceful courtyards in abandoned palaces, endless rows of sparkling lamps, all crafted by old weathered hands, and finally also about a Marrakech that is transforming under the rule of a young king, transforming into a well-known image of modern times… The miracle, however, remains.

Casablanca Rabat Marrakech

With the clock shifted backwards another hour we could really enjoy our arrival in the harbour of Casablanca. Already before breakfast many guests were standing on the outer decks hoping to get a glimpse of the Hassan II Mosque appearing at the horizon. The harbour was buzzing with activity, many small fishing boats came back from a early morning fishing trip. Today we had the possibility to visit either Casablanca, Rabat or Marrakech. The Marrakech group will stay overnight, so from that tour we will get the report tomorrow. Casablanca is the biggest city of Morocco, with over 5 million inhabitants. It is as well Morocco's main port and is considered the economic and business center of Morocco. Rabat is political capital city of Morocco and is situated around 96 kilometer north of Casablanca. The Medina in Rabat is surrounded by wonderful 16 km long city wall. The city was founded by Almohad dynasties in the 12th century which was one of the Berber dynasties. For the guests that never have been in Morocco before it was a treat to explore the markets and look at all the colorful shoes, lamps, clothes, spices and other goods for sale. The main highlight of Casablanca is the Hassan II Mosque. The mosque is a building of superlatives. Compared to other mosques it always ranges among the first ten on Earth, depending on what you compare. Just the prayer hall measures 20.000 square meters which gives space for 25.000 prayers. The outside area of the mosque takes another 80.000. Or imagine doing your ritual cleaning before praying in a 6.000 square meter hamam.The mosque is build half above water, and the roof can be opened. So praying can be done while being connected to the water - where Gods throne is - and heaven as well. . 

The construction of the mosque took seven years with 2.500 workers on the construction site. And around 10.000 craftsmen and artists as well who worked for example on 67.000 square meters of stucco and 10.000 square meters of mosaic. Small pieces of glazed tiles in different colors form 80 different patterns in typical Arab style. Just one more figure to end with. The Minaret is 210 m high which is the highest on Earth. There are many more figures that could characterize the Hassan II Mosque but none of them is suitable to describe how startled basically everyone is how sees the mosque for the first time. The architect and the workers created a place that is in fact beyond any words and figure

Algarve

Today we had the chance to explore the Algarve coast of Portugal. We arrived in the city of Portimao early morning. Again our excursion buses were standing ready on the pier. The local guides waiting for us patiently, but eager to show us their region. The Algarve region lies in the South of Portugal and is famous for its beaches and beautiful coastline. In the western part you have fine golden beaches everywhere along the coastline, often lyingbetween high cliffs. One of this beaches was lying actually just 20 minutes from the place we were docked. Praia da Rocha has a length of 4 kilometers and numerous restaurants and bars in the vicinity. Many guests found their way to this beach and some even took a dip in the ocean. A little chilly at first but With a sea temperature at around 20 degrees not bad at all! The walking possibilities are very nice in this area too. Steffen, from the expedition team, tried out a new hike that goes along Praia da Rocha and then over the cliffs to other secluded beaches and cliffs. Definitely an option for next time! Cape St. Vincent is the southwestern most point of Portugal with far views to both sides. It was almost possible to see Africa and America from there... For our German guests it was possible to buy the last 'Bratwurst' before America! Some actually did and received a certificate for it.

The lighthouse on Cape St. Vincent is garding one of the busiest shipping areas in the world, it is also a landmark for the ships traveling to or from the Mediterranean. The cliffs at the Cape rise vertically from the Atlantic up to 75 meters high. After this relaxed day we make our way to Africa!

Globes and ropes in Lisboa

A dark, misty morning sees us rolling into the river Tejo, entrance to Portugal's capital, Lisbon. Or, better, Lisboa: The name translated means "Lovely Bay" in Portuguese and gives the reason for the long and colourful history of the town in a nutshell. Not less than 3000 years ago the Phoenician traders were the first to discover the advantages of the location and founded a settlement/trading point there. Much later, the Greeks would follow, then the Romans, the Visigotes, the Maures, the Templar Knights - literally every important nation of the Antique settled, conquered, built, modified this city. The heterogeneity of the architecture is the most prominent witness for that; here we have the labyrinthic alleys and winding streets of the Baixa, seeming randomly cut into the assembled houses, now lined with local shops and bars, there the neo-gothic buildings of the times of the first Portuguese Republic. The core of the old city centre is entirely different again: After the devastating earthquake of 1755 it was here that the Marquis de Pombal delivered his chef-d'oeuvre, reconstructing the town in a very short time, creating more space and making it safer against future earthquakes.

All this you can discover walking from our pier, which is more or less around the corner, or by joining the bus excursions, one going more into Lisboas details (and joining a Fado show for lunch), the other one heading for Sintra, summer refuge of the Royalty and the Royalty's Loyals. Especially King Manuel is to be mentioned, great promoter of the Portuguese navigation school and creator of a very distinct building style ("Manuelinic"), featuring the masonry depiction of a lot of maritime details, like ropes and knots, ship's bows and so forth. His influence made Portugal to the leading seafarer nation of the 15th century; but is was certainly the head of the navigation school who provided the knowledge and the training for the country's captains - Henry the Navigator. Although he never took to sea himself he accumulated the greatest skills in his person, so every navigator who came out of his school was up to all imaginable tasks. In 1960 the great monument Padrão dos Decobriementos was erected to remember this brilliant mind who died 500 years before.

The palace of Sintra is not one of those which make you sick of gold and gems, it is rather low key in the choice of materials. But the overall arrangement is so exquisite and tasteful that you are immediately captivated by the beauty of the place. Sintra itself is sitting in the immensely green and lush slopes of the surrounding mountains, a real little paradise.
Back to Lisboa, a city walk is the contrast to the peacefulness of Sintra, the city is buzzing and noisy and busy - but charming. The street cars are moving relics of the old days, the churches realms of silence, the streets a woven network of people, goods, food, and smiles.
Seems the only sad tune today were the melodies of the Fado...