A day to remember

Today was special for many of us. After several days on rough seas we arrived in Antarctica- the ultimate goal of our trip. Seas were calm overnight which allowed us to make up some time that we had lost going into the wind and waves from South Georgia. Overnight it had snowed and a nice pile had built up on decks. Some of our crew had never seen snow before!

As with the earliest explorers, the first land we saw was the South Shetland Islands. Through the day, skies cleared and we were followed by hundreds of Cape and Antarctic Petrels and Souther Fulmars. Our destination today was the Polish base Arktowski on King George Island, South Shetland Islands. Winds were strong when we set anchor near the landing site but the direction was more or less off the land so the sea conditions, though difficult, did not hamper our landing.

At the station we had options to walk along the cobble beach towards the Adélie Penguin colony and visit the station itself. The air was fresh and the stiff breeze at 0° C made it seem a lot colder. We of course saw the resident Adélie Penguins but were lucky also to see some Gentoos and a few Chinstraps. Halfway down the beach a few Elephant Seals were enjoying the sun, and two others (males) were play-fighting behind the beach.

Overnight we will sail across the Bransfield Strait and down the west side of the peninsula to the Lemaire Channel, which we hear is free of ice, and to Port Lockroy. More Antarctic adventures are to come, that's for sure!

Dancing with a faithful Lady

We were dancing “rock’n roll”,”twist” and “cha cha cha” with our wonderful and faithful lady FRAM since we left South Georgia two days before. The wind was blowing very strong again and FRAM was rolling and pitching, and we with her. But we have to say, we love our wonderful lady and most of us have now the right seamen legs to dance with her.

During we were dancing on board different kind of birds were dancing next to our ship over the waves. It was a magnificent spectacle to watch the birds and our photographer and our ornithologists started their competition in bird photography.

We used these two days also to prepare our self for our next destination, the Antarctic Peninsula. Our lecture team offered so many different kinds of lectures and we were soaking their knowledge like a sponge. In a last briefing we learned all about the IAATO rules and we believe that we will behave now correct and carefully on our landings in Antarctica after all this information.

The evening today was more relaxed. After a nice dinner we met in the observation lounge for a fashion show. Extraordinary models – Captain, officers and expedition team – did a very good job. This event was followed directly by the fruit and ice carving show; presented by three wonderful gentlemen out of the galley. It seems that we have real good artists with us on board.

Also now in the very late evening Fram is still rolling and pitching; nobody likes to dance anymore. FRAM cradles us now in hopefully nice and deep dreams.

Grytviken

Overnight the Captain took us from Stromness to Cumberland Bay. Blue skies and the reflections of the surrounding peaks and buildings gave us a taste of what was on offer for the landing ahead. Sarah Lurkock from the South Georgia Heritage Trust came on board to give us all a talk about the work of the Trust and the rat eradication programme, whilst the ship was cleared by the South Georgia Governement officer who ensured we had undertaken the neccesary biosecurity measures. We were given the go ahead and we were off.

The calmness of the early morning ceased with a cool wind reminding us where we were. We paid our respects to those buried in the cemetry including its most distinguished inhabitants - Shackleton and Wild. The resident fur seals on the most part behaved and did not even blink an eye as we walked past.

A few of us took advantage of a guided tour of the whaling station whilst the others enjoyed walking up the hill to the lake taking in the panoramic views.

The museum gave an excellent insight into life at Grytviken which at its height had in the region of 1000 inhabitants and during its 60 years of operation the efficient killing and processing of the 1.25 million whales that were taken in Southern Hemisphere. 

  

Some interesting bird life was seen including an out of place duck - for the birders amongst you will spot the difference! At lunch time we said our farewells to Grytviken as we sailed from Cumberland bay and set our course for the South Orkney Islands. We were treated with views of impressive icebergs of all shapes and sizes sparkling in the afternoon light. The peaks of South Georgia looked even more jagged an inhospitable - what a magical few days we have just had.

Money in the bank

As soon as we left Stanley, Falkland Islands, on our way to South Georgia, the seas have been angry. The source of the anger was a deep low pressure system that seemed to lead us like a bellwether across the Scotia Sea all the way to South Georgia. We were pounded day and night and we can all say we truly experienced the Southern Ocean at its wildest. Our Captain Hårvik reported that we experienced waves 14-16 metres high, and some perhaps even higher! 

And like putting money in the bank and taking it back out after some accrual, we made a withdrawal once we reached South Georgia and experienced an amazing landing at Fortuna Bay, and then at Strømness.

At Fortuna, the bay was calm which made landing on the beach uncharacteristically straightforward, and the sun shone! There we were greeted by what seemed like 1000s of King Penguin chicks and adults. The site, sound and smell of the colony will be unforgettable. Fur seals and Elephant Seals were everywhere! Members of the local herd of introduced reindeer were seen scattered about the colony. The reindeers' days are numbered as the decision has been made to remove them from South Georgia. On the way down to the penguin colony, a large group of Giant Petrels was scavenging a dead King Penguin adult in a pond. It's easy to see why they are called "stinkers"!

In the late afternoon we continued the great day with a landing at the old whaling station of Strømness. Fiesty Fur seals and lazy Elephant seals lined the beach and adjoining meadow, and behind them lay the decaying station. There are differing opinions about whether these old relicts should be removed or preserved as a remembrance of former times. The sun gave us beautiful, warm light as it sat in the sky above the pass where Shackleton and his men made it down to Strømness from Fortuna- a perfect end to a perfect day! 

Rocking and Rolling

Our summer holidays continue but today we have had a day of rocking and rolling. Heavy seas meant that fresh air was in short supply with access to the outside decks limited for safety reasons. With strong westerly winds pushing the ship along all day towards our next destination - South Georgia.

During the day the expedition team continued lectures on the history, geopolitics and wildlife of South Georgia preparing us for our visit. Whilst Pablo and Nacho our Vantage tour leaders gave an entertaining lecture on Gauchos and Mate.

The bird life continued to be rich and varied with lots of Wandering Albatross amongst our frequent visitors.

Having sailed almost 1500 miles from our start point in Buenos Aries most on board have found our sea legs, but some interesting walks are to be seen coping with the moving ship. As we move further east we move our clocks forward one hour tonight.

We're all goin' on a summer holiday

Yes we are! It's summer down here in the southern hemisphere, or late spring by some calculations, and we are on holiday! As it happens, as your blogger scribes these words, Cliff Richard's "We're all goin' on a summer holiday" rights out in the background, hence the inspiration for the title.

Our holiday involves sailing on a ship in some of the roughest seas anywhere and visiting some of the most remote places on Earth! Some holiday you might say, but we have so far hugely enjoyed our voyage south from Buenos Aires and our three days in the Falkland Islands!

Today we were in Stanley, capital of the Falklands, and its most populous community being home to about 2,300 "Kelpers". The whole of the Falkland Islands contains only 2,500 people, excluding the military. Quick arithmetic, indicates that there are more passengers on the Fram than there are living in the Falklands outside of Stanley!

Activities today were varied. Some relaxed in town, exploring the shops, having a bite to eat over lunch, and chatting with the very friendly local people. Others decided to take one of three excursions to Bluff Cove, around the bay on a nature walk or on a tour of Stanley. Overlaid on the day was the weather, including rain and 40 knot winds. All in all it is fair to say we experienced the Falklands in all its glory!

We set sail from Stanley late afternoon. As we left dockside the Fram's bow thrusters had to push hard against the gale-force winds, which has decided on their own that we should stay an extra day! However, the Fram was too powerful and we were released into the harbour and then out into the open Scotia Sea on a heading east-south-east to South Georgia.

Spring on the Falkland Islands

It looked like that we paid yesterday for our unbelievable sunny day today. Blue sky, white clouds, green vegetation, a sea in different blue colors, and birds, birds, birds all around, that was our day in Westpoint and Sounders. We cannot describe this all with words. So here are the pictures, they speak for their own.