MV Ghost ship Fram

The previous days travel, lack of sleep all took its toll. The motion of the ocean caused a lot of stomach motions. When only less than 30% of us turned up for breakfast the expedition team delivered Ginger tea and crackers to our rooms. This continued through the day.

Those of us who did make it out on deck were treated to at least 7 Light-mantled Sooty Albatross swooping around the ship in close formation making the most of the winds and the waves.

At times we did wonder where everybody had gone. We are making good progress having crossed the Antarctic Convergence and hope to be in the South Shetlands tomorrow lunch time when the real journey will begin.

Off we go

After the enforced stay due to the transport strike in Argentina we are on our way to Antarctica! Our 'home' port of Ushuaia looked magnificent in its coating of fresh snow on higher ground, which fell last night. This trip is a first for Fram- all our passengers are Chinese speakers.

Passenger flights arrived early and as soon as we landed we were on board MS Fram. Although tired after days of travel we soon got used to our new home for the next 9 days. We handed in our medical forms and were issued our blue expedition jackets. These were soon put to good use as we had our Muster practice in what seemed a gale force wind coming off the glaciers around Ushuaia.

We pulled away from the pier and headed east down the Beagle Channel. The wind was cold on our faces but the light was very impressive on the snow-clad mountains. The views kept getting better with the clay banks contrasting with the beech forest and snowcapped peaks above. We were followed by Cape Petrel, Black-browed Albatross and Shags to name a few. Some distance past Ushuaia we passed the most southerly town in the world- Puerto Williams on Isla Navarrino, Chile.

As we headed out into the Drake Passage the seas started to build rocking us all asleep, looking forward to the adventure ahead.

What now?

After our incredible voyage of the past 3 weeks, we have incredible memories – seeing is believing! But now reality looms – back to civilization. Compared with the seas we endured to and from South Georgia the Drake was comfortable, but the odd storm still reminded us the power of Southern Ocean.

The winds and the waves meant that we still had abundant bird life with us, including the Black browed Albatross and the Southern Fulmar that we have seen from very early on in the voyage – are these the same birds seeing us safely back to land?

Final lectures were given by the Expedition team and the Captain, Chief Engineer and Hotel Manager held a Question and Answer session covering any of those final queries including what goes on behind the scenes in the Galley, Engine room and the real story of ‘the storm’.

Due to the potential chaos caused by the travel strike in Argentina on the 20th we went as fast as possible out of the Drake into the protected waters of the Beagle channel and made our way northwards to Ushuaia for arrival on early evening on the 19th. Cancelled flights will mean taking in the highlights in the most southern city in the world for an extra day.

Our thoughts our now towards home, seeing family and friends and telling them about our unforgettable experiences and memories that will be with us forever.

Were we dreaming?

During the night we felt bumps and shakes in Bransfield straight, but before we knew it we were full steam heading south in the Gerlache straight surrounded by cloud capped mountain peaks with glaciers pouring into the sea. As we headed further south the scenery became even more magical. We entered the narrow twisting Neumeyer channel wondering where the Captain was taking us in this Magical Land.

A few buildings appeared with the British Union Flag flying strongly in the wind. The magnificent backdrop of the Feif range with a heavy winter dusting of snow reminding us that we are early season visitors. Port Lockroy an old British base built during war is now run as a very informative and evocative museum of how the scientists used to live in the 1950s. The base is run by the Antarctic Heritage Trust and charity based in the UK. Only half of this season’s team had made it to the base a few days before us and had been busy digging out the base and setting up the fantastic museum ready for our arrival.

We did wake up when we landed as we had to negotiate the snow cliff from the landing up to the base, luckily the Port Lockroy team had dug some steps and the expedition team were on hand to give us a helping hand! We realised we were definitely not dreaming when the wind started to pick up, the clouds lowered  and snow blew, but looking on the bright side we all got free facials.

A taste of the real Antarctic.

Leaving Port Lockroy late afternoon we headed south to the Lemaire channel to make the most of the days remaining light. We were treated with rays of light pouring down onto massive icebergs to the west, looking south we could see the entrance to Lemaire and headed straight in. Strong winds poured snow off the surrounding glaciers into the sea, the towering peaks (including Una’s peaks to name but a few!) with their dusting of snow made us feel very small in this massive landscape. Ice blocked our path two thirds of the way through and the Captain spun the ship around on the spot (the channel was so narrow he did not have much choice and we headed north towards our landing for the following day.

The magic continued as were awoken by the noise of small ice blocks tapping at the side of the ship as we sailed into Paradise Bay towards Base Brown. An early morning landing did not wake us from our dreamy haze whilst the heavy snow fall restricted our visibility. The short walk up the hill certainly did wake and warm us up. Those of us that made it were rewarded with views down to the ship and when heavy snow occasionally eased we could see across to the ice falls surrounding peaks. The power of nature! The Antarctic!

A day to remember

Today was special for many of us. After several days on rough seas we arrived in Antarctica- the ultimate goal of our trip. Seas were calm overnight which allowed us to make up some time that we had lost going into the wind and waves from South Georgia. Overnight it had snowed and a nice pile had built up on decks. Some of our crew had never seen snow before!

As with the earliest explorers, the first land we saw was the South Shetland Islands. Through the day, skies cleared and we were followed by hundreds of Cape and Antarctic Petrels and Souther Fulmars. Our destination today was the Polish base Arktowski on King George Island, South Shetland Islands. Winds were strong when we set anchor near the landing site but the direction was more or less off the land so the sea conditions, though difficult, did not hamper our landing.

At the station we had options to walk along the cobble beach towards the Adélie Penguin colony and visit the station itself. The air was fresh and the stiff breeze at 0° C made it seem a lot colder. We of course saw the resident Adélie Penguins but were lucky also to see some Gentoos and a few Chinstraps. Halfway down the beach a few Elephant Seals were enjoying the sun, and two others (males) were play-fighting behind the beach.

Overnight we will sail across the Bransfield Strait and down the west side of the peninsula to the Lemaire Channel, which we hear is free of ice, and to Port Lockroy. More Antarctic adventures are to come, that's for sure!

Dancing with a faithful Lady

We were dancing “rock’n roll”,”twist” and “cha cha cha” with our wonderful and faithful lady FRAM since we left South Georgia two days before. The wind was blowing very strong again and FRAM was rolling and pitching, and we with her. But we have to say, we love our wonderful lady and most of us have now the right seamen legs to dance with her.

During we were dancing on board different kind of birds were dancing next to our ship over the waves. It was a magnificent spectacle to watch the birds and our photographer and our ornithologists started their competition in bird photography.

We used these two days also to prepare our self for our next destination, the Antarctic Peninsula. Our lecture team offered so many different kinds of lectures and we were soaking their knowledge like a sponge. In a last briefing we learned all about the IAATO rules and we believe that we will behave now correct and carefully on our landings in Antarctica after all this information.

The evening today was more relaxed. After a nice dinner we met in the observation lounge for a fashion show. Extraordinary models – Captain, officers and expedition team – did a very good job. This event was followed directly by the fruit and ice carving show; presented by three wonderful gentlemen out of the galley. It seems that we have real good artists with us on board.

Also now in the very late evening Fram is still rolling and pitching; nobody likes to dance anymore. FRAM cradles us now in hopefully nice and deep dreams.

Grytviken

Overnight the Captain took us from Stromness to Cumberland Bay. Blue skies and the reflections of the surrounding peaks and buildings gave us a taste of what was on offer for the landing ahead. Sarah Lurkock from the South Georgia Heritage Trust came on board to give us all a talk about the work of the Trust and the rat eradication programme, whilst the ship was cleared by the South Georgia Governement officer who ensured we had undertaken the neccesary biosecurity measures. We were given the go ahead and we were off.

The calmness of the early morning ceased with a cool wind reminding us where we were. We paid our respects to those buried in the cemetry including its most distinguished inhabitants - Shackleton and Wild. The resident fur seals on the most part behaved and did not even blink an eye as we walked past.

A few of us took advantage of a guided tour of the whaling station whilst the others enjoyed walking up the hill to the lake taking in the panoramic views.

The museum gave an excellent insight into life at Grytviken which at its height had in the region of 1000 inhabitants and during its 60 years of operation the efficient killing and processing of the 1.25 million whales that were taken in Southern Hemisphere. 

  

Some interesting bird life was seen including an out of place duck - for the birders amongst you will spot the difference! At lunch time we said our farewells to Grytviken as we sailed from Cumberland bay and set our course for the South Orkney Islands. We were treated with views of impressive icebergs of all shapes and sizes sparkling in the afternoon light. The peaks of South Georgia looked even more jagged an inhospitable - what a magical few days we have just had.

Money in the bank

As soon as we left Stanley, Falkland Islands, on our way to South Georgia, the seas have been angry. The source of the anger was a deep low pressure system that seemed to lead us like a bellwether across the Scotia Sea all the way to South Georgia. We were pounded day and night and we can all say we truly experienced the Southern Ocean at its wildest. Our Captain Hårvik reported that we experienced waves 14-16 metres high, and some perhaps even higher! 

And like putting money in the bank and taking it back out after some accrual, we made a withdrawal once we reached South Georgia and experienced an amazing landing at Fortuna Bay, and then at Strømness.

At Fortuna, the bay was calm which made landing on the beach uncharacteristically straightforward, and the sun shone! There we were greeted by what seemed like 1000s of King Penguin chicks and adults. The site, sound and smell of the colony will be unforgettable. Fur seals and Elephant Seals were everywhere! Members of the local herd of introduced reindeer were seen scattered about the colony. The reindeers' days are numbered as the decision has been made to remove them from South Georgia. On the way down to the penguin colony, a large group of Giant Petrels was scavenging a dead King Penguin adult in a pond. It's easy to see why they are called "stinkers"!

In the late afternoon we continued the great day with a landing at the old whaling station of Strømness. Fiesty Fur seals and lazy Elephant seals lined the beach and adjoining meadow, and behind them lay the decaying station. There are differing opinions about whether these old relicts should be removed or preserved as a remembrance of former times. The sun gave us beautiful, warm light as it sat in the sky above the pass where Shackleton and his men made it down to Strømness from Fortuna- a perfect end to a perfect day! 

Rocking and Rolling

Our summer holidays continue but today we have had a day of rocking and rolling. Heavy seas meant that fresh air was in short supply with access to the outside decks limited for safety reasons. With strong westerly winds pushing the ship along all day towards our next destination - South Georgia.

During the day the expedition team continued lectures on the history, geopolitics and wildlife of South Georgia preparing us for our visit. Whilst Pablo and Nacho our Vantage tour leaders gave an entertaining lecture on Gauchos and Mate.

The bird life continued to be rich and varied with lots of Wandering Albatross amongst our frequent visitors.

Having sailed almost 1500 miles from our start point in Buenos Aries most on board have found our sea legs, but some interesting walks are to be seen coping with the moving ship. As we move further east we move our clocks forward one hour tonight.