Almost in Paradise

“Sliding into the arms of Paradise” was the motto of the first half of our day. The snow covered slope behind the Argentine station Almirante Brown in Paradise Harbor invited us to walk up and slide down. Some wanted more of paradise, walked up once more and … “juhuuu” with hands up in the air. Of course, all that again in bright sunlight and literally no wind. Towards the end of the landing a Chilean Twin Otter flew by, greeted us, and again lots of hands were up in the air waving back.


Out of Paradise Bay we headed straight to the Neumeyer-Channel. This very scenic channel led us to Port Lockroy. The staff of the base on Goudier Island welcomed us very friendly and had museum, post office and shop open for us. A part of the island was surrounded by icebergs and icy bits with fantastic shapes.

Later in the evening a big iceberg really blocked our planned way. It was placed like a cork in the narrow part of Lemaire Channel. The late evening sun was shining into the channel and let the steep mountain flanks, up to 1000m high, aglow. There was absolutely no way around this iceberg possible, so we had to turn around, leave Lemaire Channel to the North again and take a different route outside the islands to continue further South.

Extremes

Antarctica is often called the continent of extremes. Then usually the size, the cold temperatures and the immense masses of snow and ice are meant. Today we experienced different extremes: extremely good weather in extremely beautiful landscape.

Our first landing was on Cuverville Island in the entrance of the Errera Channel. There are several Gentoo rookeries along the shore and as well a couple of hundred meters up the slope. Next to the island some dozens of small icebergs ran on ground. A spectacular scenery in brightest white and blue. The surrounding mountains rise steep and high, all with icy tops and glaciers on their flanks, except the vertical rocky walls. The look South into the Errera Channel was just breathtaking. Small icebergs and ice blocks were drifting all over in absolute flat water that mirrored the neighboring mountains and glaciers. With temperatures up to plus five degrees Celsius some of the passengers walked around in shirt and thin jacket, which was not risky because there was hardly any wind.

To reach our afternoon landing place we passed by some dramatically shaped glaciers, lit and contrasted by today’s extremely bright sunlight. Our second landing was in Neko Harbor. Again with lots of Gentoo penguins. We also saw Kelp gulls that were bitterly fighting for the best nesting places. Another attraction was a walk up an icy ridge in the innermost branch of Neco Harbor, offering as well a view on the nearby steep glacier and its front and a view all the way out on Andvard Bay. Fram anchored far below us with the water around it sparkling in the sun light.

Finally in the evening the smiles of ten passengers were at least as bright as the sun today. They went ashore for a camping night in Paradise Bay.

Antarctica Day

1st of December is the date when the Antarctic Treaty had been signed. For us it was a real Antarctic Day. The first half of it we were busy preparing for our landings. That means vacuuming backpacks, trousers and jackets to prevent that we introduce any seeds and other organic material that does not belong here. Furthermore we had bridge visits, briefings and a group photo to commemorate Antarctica Day.

Accompanied by some fin whales we left the Drake Passage and passed in-between Nelson Island and Robert Island to the Southern Side of the South Shetland Islands. There we were suddenly surrounded by snow that was whirling all around Fram. That much that some worried about our first landing. Nevertheless we continued towards Greenwich Island. When we arrived at a bay called Yankee Harbor the snow disappeared as fast as it had captured us.

 

 

We started the landing right away and had a fantastic afternoon. We found Yankee Harbor full of wildlife, although the area is still covered by a thick layer of snow. That doesn’t bother the several thousands of Gentoo Penguins. They were walking and sliding all around to and from their colony. Even though rocky areas and thus nesting possibilities are still rare the skuas were mating.

Some seals were sleeping on the end of the narrow stipe of land that shelters the inner part of the bay.

While these impressions created smiles on all faces ashore, clouds and sun were creating the quickly changing dramatic light in the scenery around. And all of a sudden, while we were leaving the place, very low and fast moving dark grey clouds brought a fresh load of snow. We reached the ship safely and then were again blinded by swirling snow for the next half hour.

What a great Antarctic day!

Heading South

This time the Drake Passage likes us to go southward. Just a bit of old swell is gently moving the ship and every now and then a single wave top turns white. That is how we wished it to be. Best conditions to start with our ‘onboard university’.

The lectures about Southern Ocean seabirds (John), Marine life in Antarctic waters (Rudolph), Antarctic cycles of ice and water and life (Verena) and geology (Bob and Andreas) found great interest. And of course the lecture about the original FRAM (Tessa) as well. Some got a big load of fresh air when they were out on deck 7 for bird watching with Simon and Therese.

The last set of lectures in the late afternoon about Antarctic Natural History (John) and a live-narrated documentary about the most extreme expedition carried out in the Antarctic (Andreas) had just finished when the bridge informed us that we just crossed the Antarctic Convergence. Within short time the water temperature has dropped from 5.5 degree Celsius to 1.3 degree Celsius. Welcome to Antarctica!

Ushuaia

Fram found its place in the midst of the slightly crowded harbour of Ushuaia early in the morning. After the last passenger group had left the ship for some local sightseeing tours and further travelling the ship’s crew did the tremendous job again to tidy up the whole ship within just a few hours.

They are all used to these routines but seeing it from a visitor’s perspective you would probably turn a bit dizzy trying to keep an overview of all the activities in every corner of the ship. Bed linen and towels are moved out of the roughly 130 cabins, new supplies arrive at the ship and are stowed away, all public areas are cleaned as well all cabins, fuel is delivered to the ship, cabins are prepared for the new passengers, luggage arrives and is immediately checked and distributed to the cabins. Crew and staff members rush around and as always, right on the spot, everything is ready when the first bus arrives with new passengers.  

Check in, medical information, hand out of expedition jackets, everywhere a smile and assistance for the new guests. And after the mandatory safety drill we left at 18:30 for a new Antarctic Adventure. Closely observed by the Dolphin Gulls in the harbor.

The calm after the storm!

Following a few crazy days of action (the storm) we witnessed at first hand the beauty as well as the harshness of Antarctica it was time to head north. The motion of the ocean was not as stomach churning as the way south – well at least it did not create ‘ghost ship Fram’ which meant we could all enjoy life on board.

Lectures from our some of our onboard expedition team as well as guest lectures filled our days. Sea conditions allowed us all to visit the Bridge and see the inner workings of ship operation including the all-important coffee machine. The Captain not to be outdone by the ‘chop’ or rubber stamps showed us his personal collection and these were put to good use.

Safety and security are paramount on any ship but especially one operating in such remote places. This weeks exercise drill simulated a security breach leading to an evacuation of the ship. Through exercise all the crew are well drilled and prepared for hopefully all eventualities.

Now as we approach the Beagle channel our round trip is almost complete. We have seen it all. What a trip Hao Hao.

Is it, was it a Deception?

It was bit of a surprise when we woke up this morning to grey skies and strong winds. Is this what Antarctica is really like? Were the past few days just a dream or just the Antarctic deceiving us?

We arrived as planned at Deception Island the active volcano on the western end of the South Shetland Islands. We went through the incredible narrow entrance to caldera ‘Neptunes Bellows’ which can give way to the calm protected waters of Whalers bay. This morning this was not the case, the Captain tried to anchor but the conditions did not allow the anchor to hold. So plan B – a MV Fram cruise around the Caldera taking in the sights whilst our Geologist gave us information about this unique environment.

The Captain navigated us back out of the caldera and we head for the more protected waters of Walker Bay on Livingston Island a few hours away. Conditions were slightly better and we anchored just over a mile away from the beach. The wind and swell made for a very different Antarctic experience than our previous landings.

Listen to the announcements and take note of what you are told the Expedition team keep on telling us. Karnail our guest from Hurtigruten based in London tested the teams advice by deciding his camera would be in a better position around his neck than tucked away safely in a waterproof bag. As predicted the ‘wet’ ride to Walker bay was wet and Karnail no longer has a working camera, (he was not the only one) but he has fantastic memories and valuable hands on experience of the workings on MV Fram. He won’t do it again!

The groups of Elephant seals resting on the beach were addictive watching – with the grunts, noises – belching, snorting, constant fighting, scratching and shuffling. From the bay we could see the green moss banks at Hannah point – Is this really Antarctica?

A memorable final landing and day with Antarctica showing us a very different face! What will the Drake bring? Lake we hope……watch this space.

Sun, fun and more sun

All the campers survived the night, most taking the scenery, wildlife and colored skies during the very short time the sun was actually below the horizon.

The camp was taken down and the campers came back on board whilst the rest of us visited Peterman Island. The rich and varied bird life kept the photographers and ornithologists busy – Gentoo and Adelie Penguins with Blue eyed Shags all sitting on eggs. The spectacular views out the distant ice berg littered ocean gave the landscape photographers plenty to keep the trigger finger exercised.

We then cruised north through the Lemaire and the lucky thirty did this in a two hour Polarcirkle boat trip. The ice made navingation tricky but luckily the Captain made a path through with the Fram and we sneaked through before the ice closed around us. Minke Whales blessed us with their presence briefly as well as the odd Crabeater seal.

Boats picked up and all back on board we headed to Port Lockroy a museum run by the Antarctic Heritage Trust showing the scientific endeavor and exploration carried out by the post war British Antarctic Explorers. The sun and fun continued with the magnificent backdrop of the Feif range and the seven sisters still with a hefty winter dusting of snow. We all supported the work of the Antarctic Heritage Trust by buying plenty of gifts and postal items in their lovely little gift shop.

To top it all off we cruised in the evening light through the Neumeyer Channel now heading north ready for tomorrows landings. If Yesterday was a Wow then today was a WOW WOW!