How many days of paradise can you take?

Yes we had another one. The clouds in the morning hours made the photographers on board cheer, because they like the softer light. But their cheering didn’t last long. After a few hours all clouds had disappeared. In fact not a single bit of any cloud was left. Blue sky above Petermann Island, Lemaire Channel and all of the surrounding all the way to the horizon.

On Petermann Island it was again the birders turn for cheering. Besides the already well known Gentoos we saw Adélie penguins and blue-eyed shags. Another small walk led to the opposite side of the Island where we were rewarded with a breathtaking view from a snow-covered hill across thousands of icebergs of different size and shape. Many said that was the most beautiful lookout so far on our tour.

But after three and a half days of overwhelming beauty in bright light and calm seas an astonishing discussion could be heard during lunch time. Basically it was the photographers who launched it. Looking out on the extremely bright white glacier surfaces and snow covered areas all of a sudden they created somehow opposite sceneries. For example an icy gale with penguins that can hardly stand in the wind, with their contours being blurred by drifting snow. They themselves on their bellies and getting the perfect shots of it.

Lemaire channel was still blocked by this big iceberg we saw the day before from the other side. Inspired by the view from Petermann Island on these numerous icebergs we decided to do some cruising with the Polar Circle Boats close to the Southern end of Lemaire Channel. There too lots of icebergs formed a kind of labyrinth which we wanted to explore. And guess, even though the sun was shining all the photographers joined in…

Cruising was the new highlight. We found Weddell Seals, Crab Eater Seals, Gentoos and other wildlife in the ice labyrinth. Some icebergs had tunnels, arches, holes and remains of crevasses where we could see all the way through to the other side. Many of these structures were shining blue as if someone had switched on pure blue light inside.

A couple of hours later when we were ready to continue our trip the iceberg in Lemaire Channel had disappeared. Wind and current had moved it out southward giving us free passage northward.

We can look forward to hear about the photographer’s dreams tomorrow morning because the sun is still shining…

Almost in Paradise

“Sliding into the arms of Paradise” was the motto of the first half of our day. The snow covered slope behind the Argentine station Almirante Brown in Paradise Harbor invited us to walk up and slide down. Some wanted more of paradise, walked up once more and … “juhuuu” with hands up in the air. Of course, all that again in bright sunlight and literally no wind. Towards the end of the landing a Chilean Twin Otter flew by, greeted us, and again lots of hands were up in the air waving back.


Out of Paradise Bay we headed straight to the Neumeyer-Channel. This very scenic channel led us to Port Lockroy. The staff of the base on Goudier Island welcomed us very friendly and had museum, post office and shop open for us. A part of the island was surrounded by icebergs and icy bits with fantastic shapes.

Later in the evening a big iceberg really blocked our planned way. It was placed like a cork in the narrow part of Lemaire Channel. The late evening sun was shining into the channel and let the steep mountain flanks, up to 1000m high, aglow. There was absolutely no way around this iceberg possible, so we had to turn around, leave Lemaire Channel to the North again and take a different route outside the islands to continue further South.

Extremes

Antarctica is often called the continent of extremes. Then usually the size, the cold temperatures and the immense masses of snow and ice are meant. Today we experienced different extremes: extremely good weather in extremely beautiful landscape.

Our first landing was on Cuverville Island in the entrance of the Errera Channel. There are several Gentoo rookeries along the shore and as well a couple of hundred meters up the slope. Next to the island some dozens of small icebergs ran on ground. A spectacular scenery in brightest white and blue. The surrounding mountains rise steep and high, all with icy tops and glaciers on their flanks, except the vertical rocky walls. The look South into the Errera Channel was just breathtaking. Small icebergs and ice blocks were drifting all over in absolute flat water that mirrored the neighboring mountains and glaciers. With temperatures up to plus five degrees Celsius some of the passengers walked around in shirt and thin jacket, which was not risky because there was hardly any wind.

To reach our afternoon landing place we passed by some dramatically shaped glaciers, lit and contrasted by today’s extremely bright sunlight. Our second landing was in Neko Harbor. Again with lots of Gentoo penguins. We also saw Kelp gulls that were bitterly fighting for the best nesting places. Another attraction was a walk up an icy ridge in the innermost branch of Neco Harbor, offering as well a view on the nearby steep glacier and its front and a view all the way out on Andvard Bay. Fram anchored far below us with the water around it sparkling in the sun light.

Finally in the evening the smiles of ten passengers were at least as bright as the sun today. They went ashore for a camping night in Paradise Bay.

Antarctica Day

1st of December is the date when the Antarctic Treaty had been signed. For us it was a real Antarctic Day. The first half of it we were busy preparing for our landings. That means vacuuming backpacks, trousers and jackets to prevent that we introduce any seeds and other organic material that does not belong here. Furthermore we had bridge visits, briefings and a group photo to commemorate Antarctica Day.

Accompanied by some fin whales we left the Drake Passage and passed in-between Nelson Island and Robert Island to the Southern Side of the South Shetland Islands. There we were suddenly surrounded by snow that was whirling all around Fram. That much that some worried about our first landing. Nevertheless we continued towards Greenwich Island. When we arrived at a bay called Yankee Harbor the snow disappeared as fast as it had captured us.

 

 

We started the landing right away and had a fantastic afternoon. We found Yankee Harbor full of wildlife, although the area is still covered by a thick layer of snow. That doesn’t bother the several thousands of Gentoo Penguins. They were walking and sliding all around to and from their colony. Even though rocky areas and thus nesting possibilities are still rare the skuas were mating.

Some seals were sleeping on the end of the narrow stipe of land that shelters the inner part of the bay.

While these impressions created smiles on all faces ashore, clouds and sun were creating the quickly changing dramatic light in the scenery around. And all of a sudden, while we were leaving the place, very low and fast moving dark grey clouds brought a fresh load of snow. We reached the ship safely and then were again blinded by swirling snow for the next half hour.

What a great Antarctic day!

Heading South

This time the Drake Passage likes us to go southward. Just a bit of old swell is gently moving the ship and every now and then a single wave top turns white. That is how we wished it to be. Best conditions to start with our ‘onboard university’.

The lectures about Southern Ocean seabirds (John), Marine life in Antarctic waters (Rudolph), Antarctic cycles of ice and water and life (Verena) and geology (Bob and Andreas) found great interest. And of course the lecture about the original FRAM (Tessa) as well. Some got a big load of fresh air when they were out on deck 7 for bird watching with Simon and Therese.

The last set of lectures in the late afternoon about Antarctic Natural History (John) and a live-narrated documentary about the most extreme expedition carried out in the Antarctic (Andreas) had just finished when the bridge informed us that we just crossed the Antarctic Convergence. Within short time the water temperature has dropped from 5.5 degree Celsius to 1.3 degree Celsius. Welcome to Antarctica!

Ushuaia

Fram found its place in the midst of the slightly crowded harbour of Ushuaia early in the morning. After the last passenger group had left the ship for some local sightseeing tours and further travelling the ship’s crew did the tremendous job again to tidy up the whole ship within just a few hours.

They are all used to these routines but seeing it from a visitor’s perspective you would probably turn a bit dizzy trying to keep an overview of all the activities in every corner of the ship. Bed linen and towels are moved out of the roughly 130 cabins, new supplies arrive at the ship and are stowed away, all public areas are cleaned as well all cabins, fuel is delivered to the ship, cabins are prepared for the new passengers, luggage arrives and is immediately checked and distributed to the cabins. Crew and staff members rush around and as always, right on the spot, everything is ready when the first bus arrives with new passengers.  

Check in, medical information, hand out of expedition jackets, everywhere a smile and assistance for the new guests. And after the mandatory safety drill we left at 18:30 for a new Antarctic Adventure. Closely observed by the Dolphin Gulls in the harbor.

The calm after the storm!

Following a few crazy days of action (the storm) we witnessed at first hand the beauty as well as the harshness of Antarctica it was time to head north. The motion of the ocean was not as stomach churning as the way south – well at least it did not create ‘ghost ship Fram’ which meant we could all enjoy life on board.

Lectures from our some of our onboard expedition team as well as guest lectures filled our days. Sea conditions allowed us all to visit the Bridge and see the inner workings of ship operation including the all-important coffee machine. The Captain not to be outdone by the ‘chop’ or rubber stamps showed us his personal collection and these were put to good use.

Safety and security are paramount on any ship but especially one operating in such remote places. This weeks exercise drill simulated a security breach leading to an evacuation of the ship. Through exercise all the crew are well drilled and prepared for hopefully all eventualities.

Now as we approach the Beagle channel our round trip is almost complete. We have seen it all. What a trip Hao Hao.