Ushuaia – “where the World ends”

After almost four hours flight from Buenos Aires and the plane touched down in Ushuaia Airport. The buses were waiting for us outside of the terminal and took us on a excursion to Lapataia National Park, located just few kilometers away from the town.

Early afternoon we were back in town and shortly before 4 pm we drove to the harbor and boarding formalities started. Each of us got the MV Fram ID card which is also the cabin key card and the onboard “credit” card. Then we had a chat with the vessel doctor and received our expedition blue jacket. Some of us explored the ship’s interior as well as the outside decks. Our “exploration” was suddenly interrupted by the mandatory safety drill after which Fram set sail into the depths of the Beagle Channel.

During the very enjoyable dinner we were able to admire the magnificent view of Tierra del Fuego in one side while in the other was Navarino Island illuminated by the gloomy light of the sunset. The last point of today’s excitement was Captain’s welcome cocktail party in the Panorama Lounge, where he introduced most of his officers and then followed by the introduction of the expedition staff.

Drake Passage

Two days ago we left Antarctica and started our long journey back to Ushuaia. Neptune is very kind to us. Yesterday was so calm that even Cape petrels, due to lack of wind, had hard time following the Fram. During the evening we entered a foggy area – indicating that we were close to Antarctic Convergence. We crossed that Antarctic biological border at 8 pm, keeping the course for Cape Horn.

Today, shortly before noon the wind picked up a bit but still, the Drake Passage looks more as a lake than as a most famous stormy stretch of sea on Earth. Many guests appreciated that weather conditions. They, without any difficulties, could attended our education program and learned more about Antarctica, living conditions on the Antarctic Research Stations and about Antarctic wildlife.

More wind means also more sea birds flying around the ship. We were followed by all sorts of albatrosses: black browed, grey headed, light sooty mantled and even wanderers were close by.

Late in the afternoon the Captain invited us to join him for a Farewell Cocktail, followed by an auction of the MV Fram master navigation chart and Hurtigruten company flag. All received moneys received were donated to Save the Albatrosses Charity and Bird Life International.

At 7 pm we approached the Cape Horn – the most southerly located island of South America.
In few hours we’ll enter the Beagle Channel heading west for Ushuaia. It is time to pack the luggage, and for one more time muse over the beauty of Antarctica and maybe think of coming back to MV Fram to see another beautiful corner of the Earth.

Fun in the sun

Today our polar circle boats had a good time spending most of this sunny day in the water. And have a guess - we were more than happy with it.
Have a look yourself.

Cruising in Lemaire Channe

Landing on Peterman Island

Cruising between Pleneau Island and Booth Island

 French Passage, heading North

South Gerlache Strait

The dawn rose like thunder with a blast of brilliant sunshine – after the previous few days we were beginning to think that the sun did not shine in Antarctica.. During our sumptuous breakfast, those who had been outside were commenting on the eau de perfume of penguin. Many were keen to get a more intense sample of eau de penguin. Cuverville Island lay before us, replanted in a azure bay flecked with ice bergs and about 5,000 breeding pairs of penguins.

Once ashore we had penguins to the left of us, penguins to the right of us, and a hill to climb with penguins above us! With many choices we were on our way to explore the island and the rookeries. We were all surprised by the lack of chicks, it seems as to this rookery will be “Late” this year. We only found a few one to two days old chicks on the high nesting sites, and eggs being jealously guarded by parents from skuas in the rest. The remnants of many eaten eggs were found littered in the snow. Some were fortunate or unfortunate to see 2 skuas steal an egg from a heartbroken penguin.

After lunch the plan was to head to Paradise Bay – Base Brown, and after setting sail down the Errera Channel in a gentle 3 m/s wind, we were struck by winds over 30 m/s. They seem to come out of nowhere – the sky was blue, but the sea was rough.

It soon became evident o the Captain and Expedition Leader that any attempt at a landing at Base Brown in these conditions would be suicidal. Luckily we were able to reschedule and we made our way to the safe anchorage Port Lockroy and British Base B – Bransfield House.

The old base buildings have been lovingly restored into a museum documenting the history of the base and work carried out there, as well has a shop – where all the proceeds go to support the restoration of historic British sites in Antarctica. Retail Therapy was enjoyed by all the guests – who were then treated to the amazing site of seeing a few hours old Gentoo chicks, with some still hatching! It would be hard to see how such an day could be bettered, but the Weather Gods smiled upon us and gave us one of the most spectacular sunsets we have seen all season!

Plan B

Another storm forced us into plan B for today. Astrolabe Island was inaccessible. Wind of around 20 m/sec built up too much swell for a landing. And since we could not expect a change during the day our second planned landing close by would have been a play with high risk. And that is something you certainly should not do around here in the Antarctic. The second planned landing would have been at Whaler's Bay inside Deception Island. The entrance to the caldera is a narrow bit of water called Neptune's Bellows. Even if one would make it to the inside of the volcano it could end with being trapped in there for days, depending on how the storm develops. And that was definitely not even our plan X. So we decided for plan B, which was going further South, heading for Wilhelmina Bay. A place known for its calm waters, surrounded and thus sheltered by high and steep mountains and glaciers. And Wilhelmina Bay is also known for its wildlife.

While moving South, away from the storm, we used the time for further lectures and an introduction to Port Lockroy / the British Base A and the British Antarctic Heritage Trust, presented by three fellow travellers of the trust that we take to Port Lockroy.

Later in the afternoon when we entered into Wilhelmina Bay the water was calm as expected. Just from time to time there were catabatic winds running down the glaciers, creating small scale waves but no swell. That was our chance to do polar circle boat cruising in the bay. Several times we saw some Minke Whales around Fram and the boats and in-between all the icebergs in the bay. And there was also a leopard seal resting on an ice flow. It was not bothered by our repeated visits with the small boats. In contrast, for quite a while it was singing its somehow giggling, whistling and screaming song. We also passed by the high glacier fronts with numerous intense blue holes and crevasses and even big caves.

Finally, during the early evening hours the sky cleared and changed more and more into blue. So the low sun let the icebergs and snowy and icy slopes aglow.

Antarctic Sound

During the evening hours, MV Fram steamed across the Bransfield Strait and in the early morning we entered Antarctic Sound. Ice, Ice, lots of ice! Steaming slowly between the ice floes, the ship made its way towards our morning destination – the Argentinean Base Esperanza. Shortly before 10 am our first guests landed a shore. It was not only our first landing in the Antarctica but also our first landing on the Antarctic Continent itself! Friendly Station staff gave us a tour of the Station, filling us with tales of the history of the Base. The tour ended in the station main building, and like all good tours, with a visit to the souvenir shop and post office. For many a welcome break was the hot coffee and Argentine Treats served with lashings of Dulce de Leche.

The restaurant was abuzz with conversations about our first footsteps on the continent, and our first encounters with Adelie and Gentoo Penguins – little did we know we would be overwhelmed at our afternoon landing – and our second continental landing at Brown Bluff.
The majestic cliffs of Brown Bluff are the remains of a sub glacial volcanic eruption, and on its slopes 30,000 odd Adelie penguins and a handful of Gentoo penguins have made their nests. The landing had an added bonus of free Ice Cruising from the ship to shore – with the skilled AB’s driving the polar circle boats through the brash ice, bergy bits and ice bergs.
The Adelie penguins kept us amused with their behaviors in the rookery – and we saw the entire circle of life here – from pair bonding, to mating to chicks demanding to be fed. The Adelie’s had large well fed chicks, but the Gentoo chicks were only a few days old, and for a lucky few we saw Gentoo chicks hatching. Kelp gulls were also guarding their young, from the predatory attacks of the Skua’s.
As we set sail from Brown Bluff and headed out back in to the Antarctic Sound and Bransfield Strait, we were escorted by a Humpback whale who kept us mesmerized with many blows and shows of tail.
As we sipped evening cocktails in the Panorama lounge we reflected on the amazing experiences of the day and what fresh experiences the morning would bring.

Antarctica as it can be

The first sea day in the Drake Passage was calm and nice. We started the Fram University with a set of eight lectures and a photography workshop as well. In the evening hours we crossed the Convergence and are from then on moving in Antarctic waters.

The start of the second sea day was still calm. But soon we were facing stronger wind and the waves increased in height. The IAATO briefing was still attended by all passengers. But in the later presentations and lectures there was quite a number of free chairs.

Our first planned landing in the afternoon was then cancelled due to swell and wind speed of around 20 m/sec. Two alternative places were similar inaccessible. Antarctica how it can be.

Flexible as we are, we continued with two lectures of two expedition team members about their winter stays in the Antarctic. Personal experience and impressions that attracted more passengers back into the lecture halls.

After staying for dinner in the calmer water between Half Moon and Livingston islands we are heading to cross the Bransfield Strait towards the Antarctic Sound.