The Oldest Lighthouse in the World

A Coruna is a busy port located on a promontory at the entrance of an estuary within a large gulf on the Spanish coast. For some 1,800 years ships have passed Hercules Tower on approach. Built by the Romans, this is the oldest fully working lighthouse in the world. Its current appearance dates from the 18th Century when the memory of the original outer ramp (for carting firewood up to the beacon) was commemorated by a diagonal band.

On the guided city tour and at the same time with a view of the imposing town hall, guests enjoyed tasting typical tapas dishes. This dramatic square also has a tall monument to local Galician heroine Maria Pita. In 1589 during the Anglo Spanish war she rallied support against Francis Drake’s siege by taking her dead husband’s spear and killing the flag bearer of the British forces.

Pilgrims of many nationalities came together at A Coruna in the Middle Ages, arriving and departing by boat to join the pilgrimages to Santiago di Compostela. Many of Fram’s guests also made their way to the UNESCO listed old city today more comfortably by coach rather than on foot. For centuries the devoted and the curious have approached the religious centre from all directions. Two of the traditional medieaval routes are themselves heritage listed.

The Oldest Lighthouse in the World

A Coruña is a busy port located on a promontory at the entrance of an estuary within in a large gulf on the Spanish coast. For some 1,800 years ships have passed Hercules Tower on approach . Built by the Romans this is the oldest fully working lighthouse in the world.  Its current appearance dates from the 18th Century when the memory of the original outer ramp (for carting firewood up to the beacon) was commemorated by a diagonal band.

On the guided city tour and at the same time with a view of the imposing town hall guests enjoyed tasting typical tapas dishes This dramatic square also has a tall monument to local Galician heroine Maria Pita. In 1589 during the Anglo-Spanish war she rallied support against Francis Drake’s siege by taking her dead husband’s spear and killing the flag bearer of the British forces.

Pilgrims of many nationalities came together at A Coruña in the Middle Ages arriving and departing by boat to join the pilgrimages to Santiago di Compestela.  Many of Fram’s guests also made their way to the UNESCO listed old city today more comfortably by coach rather than on foot.  For centuries the devoted and the curious have approached the religious centre from all directions. Two of the traditional medieval routes are themselves are themselves heritage listed.

The Algarve

Reaching Portimau in Portugal, the clear weather was perfect for a full day of exploring and relaxing. Just a stroll from the ship passengers were able to enjoy the glorious sand beach and its 2.4 km boardwalk. In the opposite direction a deep promenade sweeps in a curve in front of the town centre with its shops, café’s and historic buildings.

Algarve, the name for this region, stems from the Arabic for West and the period of occupation of the Moors. Visiting Cape St. Vincent, the point furthest south-west in all of Europe was part of an excursion offered to guests.   The guides pointing South to Morocco and West to where the next land is the USA.

Fishing has always been important in the history of this port, starting with Phoenician and Roman periods. The conversion to prize winning waterfront Museum of a former sardine factory has created a venue to tell this and other stories.

On another option, travelling by jeeps through small farms and villages for an introduction to botany and local fruit and honey products.  The most prestigious crop here is the fine quality cork, explained to guests in the dappled shade of the quercus suber tree.   

Tonight the Captain has said his farewell for this Easter cruise concludes with the sights sailing into Lisbon in the morning.

The Atlantic Coast of Western Europe

Embarkation day in Lisbon. ... Santa Apolonia Pier on the bank of the Rio Teju is directly opposite the city’s first Railway Station. Opened in 1865 it still bustles with life. A grand arch alongside leads into what is now the Military Museum. Built on the site of a 16th century shipyard this grand building houses what is said to be one of the largest collections of historic weapons in the world. Amongst them the sword of great Portugese explorer Vasco de Gama together with artefacts relating to his discovery of the sea route to India.

Safety drill complete, we set off in evening sun able to see from deck historic city buildings and passing under the huge 2.2 km long suspension bridge that connects the river banks. Constructed in 1966 and originally named Ponte de Salazar after the dictatorial Portugese Prime Minister of 1932 to 1968. The current name of Ponte de 25 Abril commemorates instead the date of the overthrow of his regime.

As the Captain welcomed passengers with a toast at his Cocktail Reception the stance of the personnel gives away that unfortunately the Atlantic welcomed Fram with some larger than friendly waves for a first night on board.

Gibraltar

Few places boast a view of two continents, but you do not even have to og to the top of the Jurassic limestone rock that constitutes Gibraltar to do just that. Africa and Europe are on opposite sides of the Strait that forms the entrance to theMediterranean Sea. Stiff breezes but beautiful warm sunshine showed off the spring wildflowers clinging to the rocks.

The best known residents of this densly populated British territory are the Barbary macaques of the upper slopes – where they are ready to amuse visitors with their antics.

In such a position to monitor the seas the first fort on Gibraltar was built by Moors. The last, major military construction the tunnels engineered by the British and Canadians during World War 2. The rock from these excavations used to create the airport runway still in use today. It may also be unique to Gibraltar that everyone can cross this tarmac by vehicle or on foot.

Economic Heart of a City

Casablanca – is the largest in port in Morocco and third largest port of all Africa. Those who stayed on board enjoyed the vessel and loading activities around Fram’s berth.

Highlight of the city tour was the Hassan II Mosque. The tallest religious structure in the world, taking thousands of craftsmen only six years to build, the interior is finished with sumptuous marble and Venetian chandeliers.

Those who journeyed along the coast to the capital were shown around different parts of Rabat. The city centre is UNESCO listed as much for its 20th century urban planning under a French Protectorate as its early buildings. Some date back to the 12th Century including the mosque commissioned by Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour but unfinished due to his death. Close to the Royal Palace complex and passing through the mighty entrance to Fortress of Chellah a colony of storks has taken to nesting amongst the Roman ruins.

Close to the Royal Palace complex and passing through the mighty entrance to Fortress of Chellah a colony of storks has taken to nesting amongst the Roman ruins.

Agadir in Morocco

The Kasbah (walled village) dominates the skyline, then the national flag of Morocco greets arrivals at the port of Agadir.

The walled souk of the city, with every kind of goods available provided an opportunity to practice bartering. Men with wheeled carts ready to carry large purchases out of the internal maze of shops. In the food section storekeepers perched on their stalls which were stacked high with a stunning selection of vegetables and spices.

Some travelled to Taroudant nicknamed “Little Marakkesh, stopping to see the endemic Argan trees along the way.  In the past locals used the oil produced from this tree as standard for cooking but now that it its roughly thirty times the price of olive oil this is no longer the case. The medicinal properties of Argan and the threat to its natural forests have made the species a focus for conservation.

No sooner had afternoon lectures finished than gannets joined us swooping over the waves as we continued our journey north along the Maghreb coast...

Some Special Landscapes

Arriving in Arrecife to clear skies it was obvious that we were going to see the small island of Lanzarote at its best. Guests spread out visiting several sites around the island. In the charming city centre the Good Friday parade commenced from the Iglesia de San Gines.

The Canary Islands are the tallest tips of a vast volcanic mountain range beneath the Atlantic . Some of the most spectacular scenery is found in the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya. The massive ‘”fire mountain” eruption of September 1730 that created this area continued for six years. For a different viewing platform you can try camel back.

The local artist Cesar Manrique embraced the lava landscape when building his own home, using the natural spaces in lava as underground rooms. His love and lobbying for the protection of this environment prompted the government to restrict urban development. Today the entire island is declared a UNESCO biosphere reserve.

In agriculture, the moisture getting into the ground from the limited rains is retained by a layer of excavated volcanic ash over the fields. The local guides today describing to passengers how humidity is created for long enough to enable crops to grow. At the Museo Agricola El Patio, goats basked in the sun, cockerels were crowing in amongst the traditional buildings, hens pecking.  And then there came a rescue. One of Fram’s junior passengers ensured that a lost chick was returned to its mother via the safe hands of one of the farmers.

Sailing on … the Fashion show finished a fabulous day.

Start of a Season

Yesterday, Las Palmas on Gran Canaria was preparing for the Easter Festival. In the Cathedral of Santa Ana the procession platforms were being varnished. Boxes of cut flowers were stacked waiting for the nimble fingered florist, who had already started making beautiful displays.

Today, Fram arrived from its Atlantic crossing to the port of Santo Catalina. Activity was high around the ship, bunkering completed as well as provisions delivered.

For passengers - after checking-in comes settling-in. Finding their way around the decks, though some already know the ship well. It is wonderful for us to see again those familiar with Fram having enjoyed other voyages.  Mandatory safety briefing over, we headed to the ocean as the sun was setting. Captain's introduction made this is the start of a season visiting many ports in Europe. It is only 112 nautical miles to the first of those, the town of Arrecife on Lanzarote Island.