A Change of Plan ...

Dropping anchor off Sark, not far from Creux Harbour, a grey dawn turned into bright sunshine. Sadly the wind and sea conditions were not safe enough to transfer to this stunning small island. Instead we headed on for our next call to Guernsey.

Arriving at the east coast town of St. Peter Port luck changed. Castle Cornet dating to the13th Century stands guard over the deep natural harbor.  All who wished were able to enjoy extra time exploring this charming capital. First timers impressed with the ease of getting in and out of Polar Cirkle boats both from Fram’s platform and at the quayside.

Buildings are stacked up on the steep hillside from where, on such a clear day, there were great views back to Sark and its neighbours Herm and Jethou.

Starting off in perfect afternoon weather, those on the Island Drive excursion had perfect panorama’s. Heading south from the harbour the road’s steep twisting incline is used for vehicle hill races. From this route there were clear views back to Sark and its neighbours Herm and Jethou. Heading on around the island anti-clockwise the chatty driver guides brought the Island history, sights, traditions and current trades to life.

Some explored independently, others joined a local guide on a walking tour to hear the history of the town and Castle Cornet, stopping for refreshment in the fortress itself.  By late afternoon rainy mizzle had set in, so it was no hardship to return to the ship to enjoy the Filipino buffet and Fram crew show.

At Sea to Sark

Heading for the Channel Islands, the day started bright. A day for puzzles, lectures from the Expedition Team, postcard writing or just plain watching the sea.

Alternating with the seated dinners everyone was introduced to tomorrow’s destination, the UK Channel Islands, and safety on the Polarcirkle boats. Tendering is needed to reach shore tomorrow.

In the meantime, galley crew were unloading a large block of ice from the freezer. Carried to the Panorama Lounge, this was for Leo from the galley to carve at the Fruit and Ice Show. The man with the chisel is the only one who ever knows what subject will evolve from the block. Leo was joined by Lito making birds and flowers from fruit and vegetables, and Julius Michael modelling cake decorations in marzipan. Tonight it was a swan that emerged from the ice. Returned to the freezer the bird will feature as a decoration in the dining room tomorrow, before melting away. 

Special Bridge for a Special City

A Pilot came aboard at 0230 for navigation of the Garonne River, arriving in Bordeaux city centre before daybreak. The clay and gravel mix of soils on the starboard side approaching the city give excellent growing conditions for the production of its renowned full bodied red wines. It was to chateaux in this area that guests enjoyed wine tastings following a panoramic guided tour of the UNESCO listed urban ensemble of buildings.

As the coaches left to take those morning excursions the Sunday market stallholders were setting up on the quayside. Many speciality foods are sold here each week, to eat on the spot or to take home. Oysters from the local farms are available in several sizes. Offering tastings, such a farm was the last stop on an option to visit the Bay of Archachon and walk up the Pyla sand dune, the highest in Europe at 105m.

The same crane that lifted a barrel of Cognac off the deck of Fram, also handled the external gangway needed due to the tidal variation at the Quai Louis VIII. This very special Cognac was distilled using melted ice water from the Poles, carried for a year on Fram, north over the Arctic Circle, then south over the Equator crossing the Antarctic Circle before returning to Bordeaux to be bottled.

Named after Jacques Chaban-Delmas, Mayor of Bordeaux from 1947 to 1995, the late afternoon riverside was lined with spectators who stopped their promenade to watch Fram leave under their brand new bridge. Inaugurated in March, the largest lift bridge in Europe is 117 metres long, with a central span rising to a height of 53 metres.

Out on the Bay of Biscay

With plenty to entertain, this was a day at sea crossing the Bay of Biscay. Dolphins joined us more than once, racing to keep up. Several main rivers of France and Spain drain into this large gulf including the Garonne, our destination for tomorrow.

Chelsea, the ship’s photographer, put her camera down to offer advice on photo technique by means of a Lecture. Other subjects for the day were the Stone Age, the birth of Gothic Architecture in Europe and the relationship between Wine and Soil.

At afternoon tea time the ever popular Waffles were made and served in the Panorama lounge. Pianist Bjorn played and it seems he soothed the waves as by the evening the sea was like a lake.

Presented after dinner this evening, and always modelled by the Officers and Expedition Team the Fashion Show of each cruise shows off the clothes and accessories found in the shop. Clarice dresses the models and fortunately amongst the styles many shapes, sizes and colours are available. Something for all – the long, the short, the skinny and the not so!

The Oldest Lighthouse in the World

A Coruna is a busy port located on a promontory at the entrance of an estuary within a large gulf on the Spanish coast. For some 1,800 years ships have passed Hercules Tower on approach. Built by the Romans, this is the oldest fully working lighthouse in the world. Its current appearance dates from the 18th Century when the memory of the original outer ramp (for carting firewood up to the beacon) was commemorated by a diagonal band.

On the guided city tour and at the same time with a view of the imposing town hall, guests enjoyed tasting typical tapas dishes. This dramatic square also has a tall monument to local Galician heroine Maria Pita. In 1589 during the Anglo Spanish war she rallied support against Francis Drake’s siege by taking her dead husband’s spear and killing the flag bearer of the British forces.

Pilgrims of many nationalities came together at A Coruna in the Middle Ages, arriving and departing by boat to join the pilgrimages to Santiago di Compostela. Many of Fram’s guests also made their way to the UNESCO listed old city today more comfortably by coach rather than on foot. For centuries the devoted and the curious have approached the religious centre from all directions. Two of the traditional medieaval routes are themselves heritage listed.

The Oldest Lighthouse in the World

A Coruña is a busy port located on a promontory at the entrance of an estuary within in a large gulf on the Spanish coast. For some 1,800 years ships have passed Hercules Tower on approach . Built by the Romans this is the oldest fully working lighthouse in the world.  Its current appearance dates from the 18th Century when the memory of the original outer ramp (for carting firewood up to the beacon) was commemorated by a diagonal band.

On the guided city tour and at the same time with a view of the imposing town hall guests enjoyed tasting typical tapas dishes This dramatic square also has a tall monument to local Galician heroine Maria Pita. In 1589 during the Anglo-Spanish war she rallied support against Francis Drake’s siege by taking her dead husband’s spear and killing the flag bearer of the British forces.

Pilgrims of many nationalities came together at A Coruña in the Middle Ages arriving and departing by boat to join the pilgrimages to Santiago di Compestela.  Many of Fram’s guests also made their way to the UNESCO listed old city today more comfortably by coach rather than on foot.  For centuries the devoted and the curious have approached the religious centre from all directions. Two of the traditional medieval routes are themselves are themselves heritage listed.

The Algarve

Reaching Portimau in Portugal, the clear weather was perfect for a full day of exploring and relaxing. Just a stroll from the ship passengers were able to enjoy the glorious sand beach and its 2.4 km boardwalk. In the opposite direction a deep promenade sweeps in a curve in front of the town centre with its shops, café’s and historic buildings.

Algarve, the name for this region, stems from the Arabic for West and the period of occupation of the Moors. Visiting Cape St. Vincent, the point furthest south-west in all of Europe was part of an excursion offered to guests.   The guides pointing South to Morocco and West to where the next land is the USA.

Fishing has always been important in the history of this port, starting with Phoenician and Roman periods. The conversion to prize winning waterfront Museum of a former sardine factory has created a venue to tell this and other stories.

On another option, travelling by jeeps through small farms and villages for an introduction to botany and local fruit and honey products.  The most prestigious crop here is the fine quality cork, explained to guests in the dappled shade of the quercus suber tree.   

Tonight the Captain has said his farewell for this Easter cruise concludes with the sights sailing into Lisbon in the morning.

The Atlantic Coast of Western Europe

Embarkation day in Lisbon. ... Santa Apolonia Pier on the bank of the Rio Teju is directly opposite the city’s first Railway Station. Opened in 1865 it still bustles with life. A grand arch alongside leads into what is now the Military Museum. Built on the site of a 16th century shipyard this grand building houses what is said to be one of the largest collections of historic weapons in the world. Amongst them the sword of great Portugese explorer Vasco de Gama together with artefacts relating to his discovery of the sea route to India.

Safety drill complete, we set off in evening sun able to see from deck historic city buildings and passing under the huge 2.2 km long suspension bridge that connects the river banks. Constructed in 1966 and originally named Ponte de Salazar after the dictatorial Portugese Prime Minister of 1932 to 1968. The current name of Ponte de 25 Abril commemorates instead the date of the overthrow of his regime.

As the Captain welcomed passengers with a toast at his Cocktail Reception the stance of the personnel gives away that unfortunately the Atlantic welcomed Fram with some larger than friendly waves for a first night on board.

Gibraltar

Few places boast a view of two continents, but you do not even have to og to the top of the Jurassic limestone rock that constitutes Gibraltar to do just that. Africa and Europe are on opposite sides of the Strait that forms the entrance to theMediterranean Sea. Stiff breezes but beautiful warm sunshine showed off the spring wildflowers clinging to the rocks.

The best known residents of this densly populated British territory are the Barbary macaques of the upper slopes – where they are ready to amuse visitors with their antics.

In such a position to monitor the seas the first fort on Gibraltar was built by Moors. The last, major military construction the tunnels engineered by the British and Canadians during World War 2. The rock from these excavations used to create the airport runway still in use today. It may also be unique to Gibraltar that everyone can cross this tarmac by vehicle or on foot.