Just how Narrow?

Starting shortly after dawn in the UNESCO listed Nærøyfjord, there was a new addition to the many excursions offered in Norway – walking along a 6 km section of the Royal Postal Route from Oslo to Bergen, constructed circa 1660. Just 250 metres separates these shores at the narrowest point.

Tendering to shore, Head Chef Eirik went ahead with supplies to set up a breakfast camp. Aided by Expedition staff a hearty picnic was served. 

The rain may not have made for the best photographs but the waterfalls bursting from up to 1600m above and thick carpets of mosses either side of the path more than made up for the wet conditions.

Illustrating just how different the weather can be just around the corner in the next arm of the Sognefjord there was sunshine … however Myrdal Station at the top of the Flam Railway blew with snow.

The line of the old navvy road, used by those constructing the tunnels became outlined in the landscape. The Flåmsbana connects with the main Bergen-Olso line, and is considered a special feat of engineering. In 20 km of track climbing 866 metres with 20 tunnels, 18 of which were dug by hand.

Returning down the longest fjord in the world, we stopped at Balestrand. Again tendering, all could enjoy the sights of this community, as well as sample local apple juice and cider.

Following Historical Footprints

One hundred metres above Eidfjord is the Hæreid mountain plateau, where those interested gathered for an explanation of the largest collection of Viking graves in Western Norway. Enroute we crossed the Eid river and strolled the gentle incline to the lake it flows from, before climbing to the plateau through forest.

The stone church of 1309 is now Norway’s only remaining Church of St. James from the middle ages. According to folklore it was built by wealthy landowner Rike Ragna to atone for her sins.

As the first visitor ship of the year, Fram was treated to a farewell from the quay. 18 year old resident Lill-Ida Nesheim sang three Norweigan songs that beckon Spring.

As we are travelling on , the fresh green colours of Spring are just beginning to show themselves in the spots where the snow melted first. But it is easy to see how artists are inspired by the palette of winter. Scandinavian Art and Outdoor Life were two of the lecture subjects today, before the Captain welcomed guests onto the bridge. After dinner, the Fram Fashion Show closed the day.

Hardangerfjord

Hardangerfjord, 179 km long and home to many thousand of apple and cherry trees. However it seems there will be no early blossom this year, far into the fjord the snow on the ground and the ice on the fjord have only just cleared.

Rosendal is home to Skaalurens Shipbuilders founded in 1855, its skills in traditional methods highly regarded. Torris Skaaluren built both Gjøa ,used by Amundsen through the North West passage, and finished Gurine a classical wooden “hardangerjakt” in 1875. Gjøa is exhibited in Oslo ,and the latter is currently being restored by volunteers back at its birthplace. Excursion guests were invited to take a close look inside and out and the work taking place today, as well as being introduced to the Yard’s historical collection.

A second trip travelled by coach along the fjord and then inland for a view of an arm of the Folgefonna Glacier. Taking a walk in the stunning countryside, the local guide explained that the now surging waterfalls had been frozen solid until yesterday’s rain.

Between ports Karen explained and demonstrated Hardanger embroidery, Arne and Katya gave lectures on Scandinavian Art and Stave Churches respectively. Tendering for a second time in the day at Ulvik, we could easily witness remnants of winter. The morning winds had gone and the temperature was pleasant enough for strolling at leisure, but the farmers must be anxious for the ground to warm quickly.

First Fjord of the Spring Adventure

Many were up to see a stunning dawn on Lysefjord as we cruised down and back to see both Kjerag Boulder and Preikstolen Rock – the Pearl and the Pulpit. The Kjerag Peak rises 1,000m above the water, its sides vertical. The horizontal top of the Preikstolen a sharp contrast.

The weather was kind enough till noon then not. High wind and squalls of rain dampened the look of even this brightest of places, many of the buildings are white painted, particularly those of the C17th and C18th Old Town. Undaunted, café’s attracted customers heated legs to their outdoor tables. For the Norweigan’s working on Fram, this was a chance to catch up with native news, mustard and chocolate.

Since the late 1960’s Stavanger traditional employment of fishing and shipbuilding has evolved to include many services for the oil and gas industry and the expatriates it employs. As a service port there are always some interesting specialist vessels to see, as well as having an excellent Petroleum Museum, the building designed to resemble an oil rig. With your admission you can even try out an emergency chute from the roof . That’s not mandatory!

Peter the Great, founder of St. Petersburg, recruited Stavanger born Cornelius Cruys. Tempted to the start of his 25 year service by the offer of a post as vice-admiral he emigrated to Russia in 1698 and became the Tsar’s most important naval adviser. Commanding the Russian fleet in the Baltic and masterminding the construction of Kronstadt fortress he was rewarded with the top rank of Admiral in 1721. Today, his statue stands looking to the sea.

Calm Seas

Fram's Chief Baker, Elmer starts his day early and continues to prepare the breads for the dining room through the day.  A varied choice, fresh out of the oven, always ready.

 Baker Elmer starts his day early, and continues to prepare the breads for the dining room through the day. There is always a varied choice fresh out of the oven.

For the crew there was a Safety Drill. Today a simulated fire. This was a practice for all aspects of handling such a situation on board. And a great picture opportunity for the ship’s photographer!

A flat calm day at sea, made for a comfortable progress towards home territory for Hurtigruten. We even enjoyed the company on deck of a cute fledgling finch. After a day of lectures and relaxing for the passengers, we crossed into Norweigan waters shortly after sunset.

Boarding in Hamburg

The huge inner city redevelopment of Hafen City is the location of a new cruise terminal on the Elbe. Here old and new rub shoulders. A mix of glass, steel, open terraces and gardens and the historic. Traditionally the church of seamen, St. Catherine’s Church dating from the 13th Century is one of the oldest buildings remaining. The port has been a vital source of income since those merchant days of the Hanseatic League.

Hamburg has a number of significant buildings in a wide range of styles, one from classical modernism is the Chilihaus, completed in 1924. An easy walk from Fram this extraordinary office block is shaped as an ocean liner using almost 5 million dark Oldenburg bricks. On Germany’s list as a potential submission for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List it was commissioned by Shipping magnate Henry B. Sloman after making his fortune trading saltpeter from Chile. Hence the name.

Arriving guests strolled up the terminal gangway to check in, collect their jackets and find their way around before the Safety Drill. Explanation of Fram’s safety equipment and procedures are tannoyed from the bridge. Off in the fading light of the day, a toast at the Captain’s Welcome, then next stop Norway.

Photocall

Expedition Team standby Deck 2. On this occasion not for a Polar Cirkle landing but for a photocall. A shot of the team is always included in the CD log compiled for each cruise. Thus guests can leave with a record of their journey – maps, daily programmes, nautical mileage and more.

Passing through the Straits of Dover early in the day, we continued into the North Sea. A varied schedule of subjects were presented in lectures.

Tessa led passengers on a navigation of the montage depictions of the three Polar voyages of the original Fram. These are on the Deck 4 Museum walls alongside original artefacts from her exploration, kindly loaned by the Fram Museum in Oslo.

The Captain bade farewell at his Cocktail Reception before dinner. Bjorn ready to play the night away, a chance to dance.

Honfleur

The French harbour of Honfleur has evolved from Medieval fortress, through important commercial port during the Epic Maritime Period, to being a place for painters and the birthplace of Impressionist Art in the 19th century.

Central is the Vieux Bassin, an attractive inner harbour edged by wood framed buildings constructed at a time when the area was surrounded by forests. Maritime history here is closely connected to the great discoveries and the search for new trade routes. This was the point from which many navigators started including the 1608 expedition of Samuel de Champlain.

The Lieutenance is the only building remaining of the medieval fortified town. From the end of the C17th until the French revolution it was used as a lodging for the King’s Lieutenant.

Place Sainte-Catherine has always been a market area, and was traditionally occupied by sailors and therefore highly populated. Its church is a unique timber framed basilica. In 1468 the first nave, then in 1488 a second identical one were built. The central colonnade is of entire oak trees. An 18m square bell tower stands adjacent.

A guided walking tour of the city also spent time perusing the paintings in the Boudin Museum. After lunch on board, excursions drove out of town in two directions. North along the coast Expedition Leader Karin took walkers amidst the dramatic scenery of Etratat. In the opposite direction, a visit to the elegant seafront town of Deauville. The boardwalks on the white sand give the public beach its name Les Planches. Somewhat deserted today in the wind, the bathing huts are for hire. In line with the glamour of the resort, each cubicle is named after a Hollywood filmstar of old.

 On the return, drive through rural Auge, a chance to taste Cider and Calvados produced at a local farm. Its buildings of the style typical of the region.