Into Hardangerfjord

Exploring Hardangerfjord the Polarcirkles have been in use again. The weather was unkind for a large part of the day but there were at least some indoor options ashore.   At Ulvik, the landing is at Brakanes Hotel, with a welcoming lobby and large conservatory facing the fjord. There has been a hotel on this scenic spot for 153 years, the first building of 1860 had just four rooms.

The thirteenth century stave church here was pulled down in 1710, and its replacement had the same fate in 1858. The third and present church of Ulvik was completed in 1859, the pretty painted decoration dating to 1923.  Surviving valuables from the medieval church are in museums, in replacement a copy of the alterfront of 1250 hangs on the wall.

After lunch we landed at Agatunet on the western shores of Sørfjorden. This hamlet of 30 buildings dating from the Middle Ages to the present is one of the few remaining group farms in Norway. The buildings, local costume collection and fjord marine life all explained by local guides.

The Court of Appeals lodge built around 1250 is the oldest medieval building of its kind in Norway that is still standing on its original site.   Huge tree trunks make up the walls, and the later metalwork features on the door to the main room.

Saturday Morning to Monday Afternoon

Not long when there is so much to do.  A routine maintenance stop in Bergen involved a lot.  Activity for all departments througout the ship.  Deliveries, servicing of equipment, repairs, counting, clearing, cleaning ...

Those blue jackets for passengers, some 3,200 of them, manhandled from pallets on deck 2 into the Deep Store, right down in the hull of the ship.

Tests completed everything is ready.  Captain Rune Andreassen is on the bridge, and passengers are on-board. We first go back into the fjords for a few days then on to Scotland.  No better place than the Panorama Lounge for a comfy view.

Olden in Nordfjord

The Captain hosted a bridge visit this morning and there were a couple of lectures before completing our journey down the Nordfjord.

Excursions that set out today from the pier in Olden enjoyed postcard scenes at the higher elevations. Snowy forests, mountain tops, frozen lakes and glacier views. A mix of sun, dark skies and snow as they explored. Some tried Svele - a Norweigan version of pancake. Some walked up a track to view the front of the Briksdal Glacier, an arm of the mighty Jostedals Glacier – the largest on the continent of Europe.

Karin has been teaching the skills of Hardanger embroidery, guests now getting to the final stages of a sampler.  Most would think the most difficult part is cutting the holes between threads. One slip and the entire piece is ruined. But no. Executing the fine Cable and Four-Sided stitches are even more challenging.

Pianist Bjorn has entertained many times during the voyage, but tonight he took to a different stage – with a lecture on Norway’s folk music, instruments and dances.

City to Untouched Nature

From Mount Aksla above Ålesund, the view this morning included Hurtigruten’s Vesterålen on pier. After a disastrous fire in 1904 this city was completely rebuilt in Art Noveau style. More than 320 of these buildings side by side, create a city that is completely different in architecture from the others on our cruise.

Mid morning a group left to travel overland and by local ferry to Geiranger, visting a working farm enroute. Stopping at a viewpoint high above the small community they were able to watch Fram arriving for the second stop of the day

On board, setting out on Storfjord, followed by Sunnylvsfjorden and then turning the corner into Geirangerfjord, twhere the water had become like mirror glass. As yesterday, this particular fjord landscape considered so exceptional a part of the world that it has been included on the World Heritage List.

Skageflå was last farmed in 1916. Our hikers set off by Polarcirkle to reach its front path. There is no question that it is a steep climb to this farmstead 250m above the fjord. But also that it is worth the effort.  Not just views down the fjord and across to snowcaps and waterfalls, but also beautifully reflected.

Just how Narrow?

Starting shortly after dawn in the UNESCO listed Nærøyfjord, there was a new addition to the many excursions offered in Norway – walking along a 6 km section of the Royal Postal Route from Oslo to Bergen, constructed circa 1660. Just 250 metres separates these shores at the narrowest point.

Tendering to shore, Head Chef Eirik went ahead with supplies to set up a breakfast camp. Aided by Expedition staff a hearty picnic was served. 

The rain may not have made for the best photographs but the waterfalls bursting from up to 1600m above and thick carpets of mosses either side of the path more than made up for the wet conditions.

Illustrating just how different the weather can be just around the corner in the next arm of the Sognefjord there was sunshine … however Myrdal Station at the top of the Flam Railway blew with snow.

The line of the old navvy road, used by those constructing the tunnels became outlined in the landscape. The Flåmsbana connects with the main Bergen-Olso line, and is considered a special feat of engineering. In 20 km of track climbing 866 metres with 20 tunnels, 18 of which were dug by hand.

Returning down the longest fjord in the world, we stopped at Balestrand. Again tendering, all could enjoy the sights of this community, as well as sample local apple juice and cider.

Following Historical Footprints

One hundred metres above Eidfjord is the Hæreid mountain plateau, where those interested gathered for an explanation of the largest collection of Viking graves in Western Norway. Enroute we crossed the Eid river and strolled the gentle incline to the lake it flows from, before climbing to the plateau through forest.

The stone church of 1309 is now Norway’s only remaining Church of St. James from the middle ages. According to folklore it was built by wealthy landowner Rike Ragna to atone for her sins.

As the first visitor ship of the year, Fram was treated to a farewell from the quay. 18 year old resident Lill-Ida Nesheim sang three Norweigan songs that beckon Spring.

As we are travelling on , the fresh green colours of Spring are just beginning to show themselves in the spots where the snow melted first. But it is easy to see how artists are inspired by the palette of winter. Scandinavian Art and Outdoor Life were two of the lecture subjects today, before the Captain welcomed guests onto the bridge. After dinner, the Fram Fashion Show closed the day.

Hardangerfjord

Hardangerfjord, 179 km long and home to many thousand of apple and cherry trees. However it seems there will be no early blossom this year, far into the fjord the snow on the ground and the ice on the fjord have only just cleared.

Rosendal is home to Skaalurens Shipbuilders founded in 1855, its skills in traditional methods highly regarded. Torris Skaaluren built both Gjøa ,used by Amundsen through the North West passage, and finished Gurine a classical wooden “hardangerjakt” in 1875. Gjøa is exhibited in Oslo ,and the latter is currently being restored by volunteers back at its birthplace. Excursion guests were invited to take a close look inside and out and the work taking place today, as well as being introduced to the Yard’s historical collection.

A second trip travelled by coach along the fjord and then inland for a view of an arm of the Folgefonna Glacier. Taking a walk in the stunning countryside, the local guide explained that the now surging waterfalls had been frozen solid until yesterday’s rain.

Between ports Karen explained and demonstrated Hardanger embroidery, Arne and Katya gave lectures on Scandinavian Art and Stave Churches respectively. Tendering for a second time in the day at Ulvik, we could easily witness remnants of winter. The morning winds had gone and the temperature was pleasant enough for strolling at leisure, but the farmers must be anxious for the ground to warm quickly.