A Garden Eden

Waking up and having another day of sun is like a special present, especially when you are told than there will be rain and wind. We arrived in between the Isles of Scilly. These are around 140 islands, but only six are inhabited and two of them we have visited: Tresco and St Mary’s. At 10 am a large tender boat picked us up and brought us to St Marys’ for an excursion to Garrison Hill and the old Star Castle. Today the Fort is a hotel located in the impressive building. It was a nice walk up the hill with beautiful views to some of the other islands. Today were many rowing boats in the small harbor, as the teams practice for the Pilot Gig World Championships which starts in this evening.

St Mary’s is a lovely little town with bright sand beaches on two sides. The sand on some beaches is so fine that at one time it was exported from the islands and used to dry ink, before blotting paper had been invented. In the small houses of the town live around 2000 inhabitants. The main incomes are tourism during the summer time and export of cut flowers.

The other excursion went to Tresco Island and therefore we used the Polarcircle boats for the first time on this cruise. On Tresco is one of the most beautiful gardens in England. Augustus Smith founded the Abbey Garden in the remains of the Tresco Abbey. This has its origins in the 12th Century. Augustus Smith planted a belt of trees as protection, but a lot of them were blown down in storms, the last in 1990. Since then over 60 000 replacement trees have been planted. Walking through the garden gives a feeling of being in paradise. You see all the different plants, the colorful flowers and have the overwhelming smell. Especially the part of the Mediterranean plants is amazing. The subtropical climate allows them to grow.

All of us enjoyed the day on the Isles of Scilly and we ended up relaxing in the lounge listing to Pianst Ralf.

Stones and more

A beautiful morning: calm sea and blue sky. We arrived in time a Portsmouth and we started with our excursions to Stonehenge, Winchester and to the Historic Dockyards.

On our ride to Stonehenge we saw some of Portsmouth landmarks like Portchester Castle founded by the Normans in the 11th century, but the long wall belongs to the former Roman Fortress. Today they are the best Roman remains in the northern part of Europe.

We drove through the New Forest, a protected area of an old forest and a heathland. Here live deer and wild ponies which we could see from the bus. In the small villages are the typical cottages with thatched roof; a short stop in Salisbury before we reached the final destination Stonehenge.

Stonehenge is still a majestic and mystical place. The first ring of stones were erected 3000 BC and the building continued until 1500 BC. There are many explanation about the purpose and function of Stonehenge, especially because during Midnight sun (24th of June) the sun is shining through one of the main portals. We enjoyed spending the time there, walking around and listening to explanations and stories. In the afternoon we stopped for an hour in Salisbury and most of us visited the impressive cathedral built in the 13th century. Inside is the eldest still functioning watch in the world. Our two coaches arrived back at FRAM again at 3.30 pm.

A group of 40 passengers visited the wonderful and bright Cathedral in Winchester, built in the Perpendicular style. Winchester Cathedral is the longest church in England. Our third excursion – a group of 62 of us – visited the Historic Dockyards where Nelson’s famous flagship HMS Victory is stationed.

It was an exciting day in Portsmouth and the environs. We left the harbor at 5 pm with a good view of Spinnaker Tower and the Dockyards. Shortly before we came to the Channel, we passed the Isle of Wight, the largest Island in England.

The day ended with a tasting of Scottish whiskey and songs, performed by Bernie and Beastie.

London is calling

We arrived in the afternoon – and it was a beautiful day: Sunshine, blue sky and the smell of spring in the air. At the Millinium Pier we had to take the shuttle to FRAM which was anchored to the HMS Belfast. The Pier is close to the Tower and the Tower Bridge. Some of us stayed two days in London enjoying the bursting city with the new and innovative buildings, for ex. the Shard just the opposite side of FRAM.

Coming on board the received our cabins and jackets. Shortly before departing was the drill on Deck 5. At 5 pm the FRAM casted off and it started with the exciting opening of the Tower Bridge. The horn was blown three times when we passed by. This was the fabulous start of our trip on the Thames. Arne and Agnes gave some information about the history of the former use of areas like the old docks. After two hours we reached the Channel going forward to our next port. At 9 pm Captain Rune Andreassen gave us a warm welcome. A lovely ending of an exciting first day.

London Overnight

Tower Bridge on the River Thames, one of London’s icons was opened for Fram to pass to her overnight mooring.  Celebration drinks were served on deck.   Crowds waved from the shore, their  daily business stopped while we passed.  

The photos show the story of the journey  upstream England’s longest river:  Industry, the Thames Barrier, the Millenium Dome,  Greenwich College and Park, the Cutty Sark, the new Shard building and finally the Bridge itself.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A quick dinner, then guests set out to see London by night.  A great end to a cruise.

What a Blink

Newcastle’s Millenium Bridge is the first in the world that opens like the blink of an eyelid. When raised, the normally horizontal pedestrian and cycle path is 25 metres above the River Tyne, allowing vessels to pass.

Out of the city centre, the huge Angel of the North statue welcomes those arriving by road and rail.

Durham is set above a different river, the Wear.  A medieval Cathedral built as a shrine to St. Cuthbert at its centre. Across a green space, Durham Castle built as residence for Prince Bishops who ruled the area for some time from the fourteenth century.

The place that is now Newcastle was first called Pons Aelius after the family name of Roman Emperor Hadrian. The 117 kilometre wall built in the Second Century AD was also named after him and forms part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire UNESCO World Heritage Site. Chester’s Fort was placed astride the wall, outside of which is the well preserved bath house, and a civil settlement which has yet to be excavated.

Bridge tours, lectures and the Captain's Cocktail reception took afternoon into evening, all in wonderful sunshine.



An Evening after Edinburgh

Bernie & Beastie have been hosting ‘Whisky with Entertainment’ Evenings bringing knowledge and wit to the Panorama Lounge after dinner. Tonight guests sampled three Cambeltown single malts.

Moored at Leith, next to Britannia the former Royal Yacht, for most of the day, guests made the short journey to see the City of Edinburgh and its Castle, or ventured further to Stirling and Scone.

Now open as a museum, the Royal Yacht sailed over 1 million miles around the world in the 44 years before her retirement, having called at over 600 ports in 135 countries.

Exiting Leith through its lock, and sailing on, gannets were returning in large numbers as we passed Bass rock, an important British sea bird colony.

Orcadian Sights

St. Magnus Cathedral dominates the skyline approaching the harbour. Kirkwall is the capital of the Orkney. This group of over 70 islands and skerries was first written of the Orkneyinga Saga of 1046. Less than one third are inhabited, but the population today is growing again, after a considerable decline leading up to the 1970’s.

The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds is the largest landowner, a range of habitats exist are found within close proximity from cliffs to marshes, moors and maritime heath. A haven and breeding for many species. And for those migrating to and from the Arctic each year, the perfect spot for a break.

Visits included sights from a range of era in local history. The Heart of Neolithic Orkney including Skara Brae village and the Ring of Brodgar stone circle are included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Skaill House, home to its Lairds for twelve generations and now open to see a family home of the 1950’s. Highland Park Distillery was combined with the 20th Century history of sheltered inlet Scapa Flow. The Italian Chapel was created by World War 2 prisoners of war sent to Orkney to build the Churchill Barriers.

In town, built in French Renaissance style in 1600, the ruin of the Earl’s Palace stands next to the red limestone Cathedral, in which sits a memorial to John Rae.

This year is the bi-cenntenial of the birth of this discoverer of the North West Passage. Recruited to the Hudson’s Bay Company, his time in Canada working closely with the Inuit resulting in his passion for Arctic exploration. Kirkwall’s pilot boat is named after him. The harbour pilot climbing down onto it after his work on the bridge was finished.

Pianist Ralf plays regularly in the Lounge, including today at Afternoon Waffles. But this evening he also took to the stage to sing works of German songwriter Udo Jurgens, as a prelude to the Fruit & Ice Carving.

Lerwick

The Shetland Isles are the most northerly part of the British Isles, populated by around 22,000 humans but many more birds and mammals.

Mousa Island is a bird reserve.  Its 13 metre high Iron Age broch is considered the best preserved in the world.  Surviving more or less as built, it is thought that the many loose stones available meant that it was never plundered for construction material.

A mainland drive took guests to the Neolithic remains and settlements from the Bronze and Iron Ages found at Jarlshof as well as introducing Shetland culture and farming.

Now in the boutique, and featured in the evening Fashion Show new arrivals of colourful Helly Hansen outdoor wear. The story of Helly Hansen began in 1877. After many years at sea, Norweigan Captain Helly Juell Hansen and his wife Maren Margarethe began producing oilskin jackets, trousers, sou’ westers and tarpaulins, made from coarse linen soaked in linseed oil. This waterproof gear became an immediate success and still is today.