Friday, 17 May 2013

с прие́здом!

Welcome! Welcome to Russia, to Saint Petersburg, to an ambience packed with history!

Early this morning FRAM sailed into the Neva River to go alongside the English Embankment situated directly in the heart of the old city centre. Golden cupolas and pompous palaces gave us an idea of the splendor and luxury of previous times when St Petersburg was the home of tsars and centre of the Russian Empire.  

During the morning excursion we had the opportunity to explore the daily (modern) life of this busy metropolis. We started with a stop at one of the market halls, where we found sausages, meat, fish, vegetables or fruit from the area as well as from abroad. Really delicious are the Russian honey and the pickled vegetables, we could taste them all. After this visit we started the ride with the underground, founded in 1955. The underground, called metro is really deep, and therefore the escalators are unbelievably long and quite fast. Back on earth we walked from the Admiralty over the Palace Square to one of the former residences to have a cup of tea and eat some traditional Russian cake.

In the afternoon another excursion took us to the Peterhof Palace where we saw the splendid apartments of the 18th and 19th century. Afterwards we explored the huge beautiful garden with the famous fountains - unfortunately under the typical St Petersburg rain.

Wet was also the boat tour through the channels. It was a pity that the sun which had been with us since the beginning of our trip abandoned us today, but all the passengers took it with good humor. After cruising for one hour along monumental buildings, vividly described and explained by our tour guides, we took again the bus to proceed to the Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral. Here we saw the graves of the tsars and were offered a demonstration of a Russian a capella choir.










The day concluded with an unforgettable concert in our own Observation Lounge by the State Symphony Orchestra. This was not only a wonderful end to our first day in this amazing place, but also a perfect celebration of the Norwegian National Day!



Thursday, 16 May 2013

Reval or Tallinn?














Sailing in the Baltic Sea is a real summer holiday: a calm sea, bright sunshine and a blue sky. Arriving in time in the capital of Estonia, Tallinn, in the morning all of us looked forward to leave MV FRAM and went into the town; either on our own or on an excursion. Tallinn is a beautiful old town founded in the middle age. The most prosperous period was during the time, when the town was a member of the Hanseatic League. Tallinn, with a population of 8,000 during that time, was very well fortified with city walls and 40 defence towers. Still today there are 26 towers and 50% of the wall to see.

One group went on a walking tour from the Domberg, the former upper part of Tallinn, seat of the central authority and the Cathedral.
We visited the cathedral and the Russian orthodox church of Alexander Nevskij. On our way to the lower town we followed the longest mediaeval street which led us to the House of the Brotherhood of Blackheads. We had a short break and enjoyed the performance of a dance-group.



The market-place was shown to us with the town hall in gothic style and some of us used the time to visit the oldest pharmacy in Europe from 1422. But one of the best things was just to stroll around and have a closer look into the tiny, little shops and galleries.

One group went for a bike ride in the old town and also in the younger parts of the city. On the panoramic tour we visited also the Kadriorg Palace, originally planned by Tsar Peter the Great, today a lovely baroque castle with a beautiful park. On our way back we stopped at the ruins of the former Pirita Convent dedicated to St. Brigitta and founded around 1400.

Unfortunately we had to leave the wonderful old town of Tallinn in the afternoon. But there is still the question, Reval or Tallinn? Both names are known for the capital of Estonia, but Reval is the old name given by the German knights and Tallinn is the right and today only used name.
Later on board we listened to some more lectures or enjoyed the sunshine on the deck.







Wednesday, 15 May 2013

Relaxed busy day!

Today, we spend the entire day at sea. But if you think this might be boring, then you are totally mistaken! There is always something to do or to see. For example, early birds could enjoy an incredible sunrise as documented by our Chief Officer from the bridge (see photo).

For those who rather prefer a lie-in (we are on holidays!), there was chance to delay the first activities to around 10 am when we started with guided bridge visits. Captain Arild Hårvik gave detailed explanations on the equipment like the 3 compasses (two geographic, one magnetic), the radars, electronic sea charts and we also learned that steering with the Azimuth-thrusters allows a very fine and rapid-reaction navigation required for sailing in the ice. However, according to his own words, the most important instrument on the bridge is still the coffee machine!

The morning was also used by our Assistant Expedition Lead
er Friederike to give us an overview on the different excursions which we can book for our next destinations. Luckily the voyage has just started and there are still many ports ahead of us!

In the afternoon, a wonderful scent filled the ship and attracted us to the Panorama Lounge. Our bartenders Dennis, Caloy and Eric were preparing delicious fresh waffles! Afterwards we heard a lecture by Carolina. She is our specialist for history of art and fascinated us with explanations about some secret treasures to discover in Tallinn. This was later complemented by Sabine who gave a more general overview on the city, so that now we are fully prepared for tomorrow.

But before going to bed, the day’s highlight took place in the Panorama Lounge: the legendary, well-known, always popular and entertaining MS FRAM Fashion Show! With the internationally renowned high class models (who during daylight also work as expeditions staff, officer or even Captain) featuring the newest trendy bestsellers from our ship shop!



Tuesday, 14 May 2013

Did you ever visit Gdansk and Malbork?

If your answer is ‘no’, you should join us on a trip to Poland. In the morning we enjoyed the calm sea, the view on the narrow coastline and of course the lectures. The first lecture was about the art in the Hermitage in St. Petersburg and the second about Tsar Peter I.
We arrived in time and with sunshine in Gdynia. It seems to be the first summer day, because some of the people wore short trousers and tank tops. Indeed a warm and nice welcome.
 

For those of us who went on the excursion, before reaching Gdansk, we had a stop at the cathedral of Oliva. There we had the pleasure of listening to an organ-concert of 20 minutes. It is one of the most important organs of Poland and from time to time the carved wooden angels moved their trumpets. Later our guides led us through the old city center of Gdansk with its beautifully restored buildings. The amazing St Mary’s Church is the largest brick church in the world. It was completely destroyed during WWII, but was luckily rebuild in its original form.
After strolling through the picturesque streets our visit concluded with a demonstration of how to distinguish real from fake amber in one of the jeweller shops.


A smaller group went on the excursion to Marienburg or as it is named: Malbork. The fortress Ordensburg Marienburg was founded by the Knights of Teutonic Order in 1274. It is the world’s largest brick castle and one of the most impressive of its kind in Europe.

The construction continued for 230 years and is today an impressive building. In 1309 Marienburg became headquarter of the Order. From 1457 the Fortress was the residence of the Polish Kings for 300 years. During the Second World War more than 50% of Marienburg was destroyed and still nowadays the restorations go on. The amazing building is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

We left the illuminated harbour of Gdynia at 9 pm after a wonderful day in Gdansk and Malbork.


Monday, 13 May 2013

The three “FIRSTs”!

What a day! To start with, it was of course our FIRST day on board. And it couldn’t be better to get used to the sea: the water was calm as a lake and the sun was shining from a perfectly blue sky.
After midday we reached our first port of call: Stralsund. It was the FIRST time ever MS FRAM visited this former Hanseatic town. On the other hand, it was also the FIRST time that the city received a cruise ship of this size! No surprise that there was big excitement on both sides. We were welcomed by gunshots from historical canons and live brass instruments music. Our Captain and some of the officers were the first to leave the ship to be greeted and later escorted by the mayor to the city hall where the Captain had the honour to put his signature in the golden book.



In the meantime, to celebrate our arrival, we were generously treated with sparkling wine at the pier. Afterwards, a boat shuttle transferred us to the main pier. From here we could explore the ancient city centre – either by excursion or on our own. Due to a wealth of well-restored buildings, Stralsund earned the title of UNESCO world cultural heritage (in conjunction with Wismar). Of more than 800 listed buildings in Stralsund, more than 500 are designated as individual monuments in the Old Town.

In addition, the original Gorch Fock lays in the harbour, now hosting a museum. For those interested in biology, there is also a huge new museum for marine life, the “Ozeaneum”, which is also very worth visiting.



Nicole's dream comes true...!


Sunday, 12 May 2013

From the North to the East (sea)


It was just a short stop in the harbour of Hamburg, unfortunately. This weekend is the port anniversary in Hamburg, hundreds of ships are in the harbour and one of the highlights is their parade. But FRAM had to leave quite early to hurry to Stralsund. In just three hours everyone was on board; it was probably the shortest lay-over time of FRAM in a habour.


We started the trip on the Elbe and got plenty of explanations about Hamburg, about some of the vessels, the beautiful part of the city: Blankenese, the shipyard Blohm & Voss and so on. In the afternoon was the first lecture about the “Nord-Ostsee-Kanal” (Kiel Canal) just in time before we approached the floodgate in Brunsbuettel, the entrance to Kiel Canal.


The whole Canal is around 100 km long and was built by the German Emperor Wilhelm I in 1896 and finished in 1914. It is a beautiful trip passing the “Marsch”, a green and fertile landscape in northern Germany. We enjoyed being outside on the decks in the sunshine, especially during the sunset. Indeed a marvelous start of our voyage in the Baltic Sea.

Captain Arild Hårvik and his crew gave us a warm welcome and nice ending of an exciting day.

Saturday, 11 May 2013

Only water around us

Today was a day at sea, but there was no reason to be afraid of it being boring, we really had a full schedule. In the morning we started with the bridge-tours and Captain Rune Andreassen explained the equipment to us, the different screens, the propellers and the radar system.


After the bridge visits the lectures started about the Vikings, the voyages of the original FRAM and the artwork on the young FRAM.
So we really enjoyed the break for lunch. Most of us will leave early tomorrow morning at 8 am and there we have to pack. Sometimes you will be surprised how much suitcases can shrink, or did we buy too many gifts especially Whisky bottles from the Highland Park?


In the afternoon started the next session of lecturing and we got information about Hamburg and the disembarkation. Later was the Captain’s cocktail with the lovely MS FRAM choir.

Yes indeed it was a “very good voyage” – and maybe in some of those days we meet again on FRAM.

Friday, 10 May 2013

And finally – Edinburgh

We had a warm welcome at the harbour of Leith, first of all the sun as usual and second a Lady piper. Arriving just ahead of schedule we had enough time to enjoy the part of Leith where is placed the Royal Britannia, former yacht of the Royal family. Most of use drove to Edinburgh either on their own or on the excursion.

This was a panoramic sightseeing through Edinburgh, passing Arthur’s seat, the beautiful shaped mountain in the town, from where you have an excellent view over the city. Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland since 1437, today live around 500 000 people in the town. It has several universities and is also an important trading place. The so-called New Town, designed and built in the 18th century is perfect example of town-planning. We stopped at the Palace of Holyrood, which is the Queen's official residence in Scotland. The Royal Mile is the famous road from Holyrood to the Castle with a lot of small shops.

Edinburgh Castle was the home of Scottish kings and queens for centuries. Today, the Old Royal Palace from the 15th century houses the crown jewels of Scotland and the main building from the 18th century the Scottish National War Museum. It is an important place of Scottish history and you still get the feeling of the past.

From the castle there is a great view and you can walk right into the Old Town with its lovely narrow streets. Here are shops and most important: the pubs. Some of us find in the shops the final gifts for their beloveds at home.


At four o’clock in the afternoon we left Leith through the lock. Two hours later we passed Bass Rock a famous bird reserve with thousands of gannets.
It is a pity that we have to leave the British Isles and in the end even the sky wept.

In the evening we all enjoyed the funny and fancy Cruise-Show performed by many of our crew-members.

Thursday, 9 May 2013

The most northern point

We reached the Orkney Islands and they are the most northern part of our voyage. Blue sky, sunshine, light wind and beautiful excursions, that’s how the day started. It must be FRAM who is bringing the sunshine all around the British Isles. Most of us went on excursions and the others strolled through Kirkwall, the nice capital of the archipelago. Orkney is made up of 70 islands, of which only 16 are inhabited. Kirkwall is the political, cultural and commercial center. Here are a big hospital and several schools so even a small university is in town.

Right in the center is the famous St. Magnus Cathedral founded in the 12th century and extended during the following centuries. There are several old tombstones and also the mortal remains are placed in a column.

The Norsemen weren’t the first settlers; the oldest ruins are dated back to the Neolithic period more than 5000 years old. At Skara Brae is the best preserved settlement of this time and belongs to the list of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 1999. It is really amazing walking around and having a closer look of the different houses which are close a beautiful beach. There are many places on the islands and one of the most impressive is the Ring of Brodgar. It is a ring of 60 stones and still 27 remain. The stone ring was built in a true circle, almost 104 meters wide.

On our other trip we started to go to most southern island of the Orkneys, South Ronaldsay. It was also a historical tour, but mainly about the time of the First and Second World War. Scapa Flow is a great inlet surrounded by protective islands. During the First World War, when the Great Fleet was based here and later the German Fleet was interned. On 21 June 1919, after nine months of waiting, Rear Admiral Ludwig von Reuter, the German officer in command at Scapa Flow, made the decision to scuttle the fleet of 72 ships. Today there are still seven shipwrecks on the bottom of Scapa Flow.
In the little island Lamb Holm stands the Italian Chapel built by the Italian prisoners during the Second World War. It is an astonishing little chapel created out of Nissen huts. This trip ended up in the famous Highland distillery where we learned a lot about the distillation of the Single Malt Whisky. It gave us also the opportunity to taste a 12 year old whisky.

On the third excursion we looked for the bird life on the Orkneys. Especially the cliffs are famous for the seabird breeding during the summer. It was an exciting trip through the landscape also passing several historical spots.
Being back we got the opportunity to listen to two lectures and enjoy waffles in the panorama lounge. The day ended again with a tasting of Scottish whiskey and songs, performed by Bernie and Beastie.