Uummannaq and Ukkussisat - here we are again!

In the early morning we arrived in Uummannaq. The “Heart Mountain” was clearly seen under a very blue sky. The fjords have been filled with lots of icebergs in various amazing shapes, just the best conditions for our ice cruising and our trip to the historical settlement of Qilakitsoq. Here they found in the 1970^th eight mummies, six women and two babies. They are the oldest and best preserved human remains out of the Thule Culture in the whole Arctic. You can see the mummies in the National Museum in Nuuk now.

FriedaPhoto

FriedaPhoto

Other guests explored the nice city by themselves or joined a talk with a native fisherman and hunter. Those they wanted to stretch their legs went on a hike to the Christmas hut.

In the evening we met our friends in Ukkussisat again. They were waiting for us already at the pier, ready to come on board FRAM to sing and dance for us and with us.  Later on we explored the little village. A nice “Kaffemik” was even prepared for us in the community house.

The surroundings of Ukkussisat have been perfect for kayaking too. It was nice to see our yellow and red kayaks gliding through the water in the evening sun.

Qeqertarsuaq a pearl wrapped in fog

The weather forecast had promised lots of sun today, but it had hid above the fog. Luckily we would still have a very nice day here in Qeqertarsuaq (the big island in Greenlandic).

Photo Esther Kokmeijer

Some of us was guided around the rather small town of Qeqertarsuaq by a local student. It is always great to have the opportunity to meet the people of the communities we visit and have a firsthand explanation of some of the many things that are different from home.

Photo Esther Kokmeijer

 Most of us also went on the ice cruise among the enormous icebergs. In one of the boats they were talking about how awesome it would be if the iceberg would calve. And not more than a few seconds later that is what exactly happened.

Photo Esther Kokmeijer

It is such an overwhelming experience to see when the great forces of nature come into action.

Photo Esther Kokmeijer

 A small group went on a kayak cruise along the coast. To have the water and the icebergs as close as you do in a kayak is a thrilling feeling. It is no wonder that Nansen called the kayak; the single-most advanced vessel ever invented by man.

 In the afternoon when we had left Qeqertarsuaq our excellent lectures gave us various talks about Greenlandic history, the art onboard Fram, photography and the genealogy of ice and snow.

Photo Esther Kokmeijer

 As we headed further north the officers of Fram and the Expedition Team gave us a very entertaining fashion show of the various clothes the shop on board has to offer. It was such a delight to see the crew onboard having  so much fun doing the show.

Sisimiut – The town next to the polar circle

During the night we sailed through the Kangerlussuaq Fjord, with 190 km the longest fjord at the west coast of Greenland. Around three o’clock we reached the open sea of the Davis Strait and then we felt the first time that we are on board a ship. But there was no strong wind and the soft movement of the vessel let us fall asleep again like a baby in a cradle.

Around 11 o’clock we reached Sisimiut, our first destination of our one week trip in Greenland. The weather was a little bit foggy and overcast but it was more than good enough that we have been able to do all our planned activities.

We explored the city by bus or by foot, we enjoyed a wonderful and tasty Greenlandic buffet to get a “Taste of Greenland”, 

we met our first sledge dogs, as we have been north of the arctic circle now, and we hiked “back in time” to the historical “Tele Ø”, where we got a lot of information about the old Eskimo Cultures and the previous whaling time. Our strongest hikers hiked through the fog on to the sunny top of the “Palasip Qaqqa” from where they got later on a good view over the amazing surroundings.

Many passengers went by a small boat to the former little settlement Assaqutat. The settlement was founded in the 1920^th and is abundant since 1969. Some houses are still used as summer houses and school classes have their summer camps over there to learn something about their own culture.

Just before we left the harbor we got a kayak presentation by a Greenlandic young man. It is unbelievable in how many different ways they can roll their kayak.

In the evening after a good and relaxing dinner, Miki, our Greenlandic artist gave us a first impression of his talent. He was singing and playing the guitar in the Observation Lounge. We enjoyed the music and the wonderful view over the arctic landscape with a nice drink in our hands.

Kangerlussuaq, the gateway to – and out of Greenland

A sunny Sunday awaited us in Kangerlussuaq. +17 degrees Celsius was what the thermometer showed in Kangerlussuaq this last – and first - day of our Explorer cruise with MV Fram.

Kangerlussuaq airport. Photo Esther Kokmeijer

Our fantastic group that came onboard Fram a week ago the 9^th June left us today after a week of exploring Greenland. It is always sad to say good bye especially when you’ve had a brilliant time together. All passengers leaving us went out on a 6 hour bus trip to the Inland Ice and will end their journey in Greenland hopefully having seen both reindeer and muskoxen on the bus trip through the lush hills of the Kangerlussuaq area.

The passengers arriving went straight to the harbor put on lifejackets and then onboard the PolarCirkel boats and direct to Fram, which was laying waiting for us in the turquoise green Kangerlussuaq Fjord.

Arriving on Fram. Photo Esther Kokmeijer

Before sailing out the 150 km. long Kangerlussuaq Fjord (Kangerlussuaq means “the long fjord” in Greenlandic), we took part of the mandatory safety drill. The motto for the crew onboard Fram is not without reason “responsible, generous and secure”.

Safety drill. Photo Esther Kokmeijer

Captain Rune Andreassen greeted us in the Obervation Lounge in the evening and now we sail out into the midnight sun to experience another week of exploring the Greenlandic nature and culture.  

  

Captains welcome. Photo Esther Kokmeijer

Done Like Dinner

There must be a beginning of any great matter, but the continuing unto the end

 until it be thoroughly finished, yields the true glory.

Sir Francis Drake  (c 1540-1596) in a dispatch to Sir Francis Walsingham 17 May 1587 

It was a beautiful morning for cruising to Itilleq.  We had mostly clear blue sunny skies once again.  
Itilleq lies just north of the Arctic Circle by about 200 metres.  Unfortunately the circle passes on a tiny island just a stone's throw away, otherwise we could have walked to the Circle!  With the water at ~5˚ C it is definitely too cold to swim over!  But I think a scant 200 metres is negligible and that we all can claim that we spent the afternoon on the Arctic Circle.

Kaffemik
Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

After we dropped anchor at 12:45, we had a short boat ride to the pier where we were given colour coded tickets to a kaffeemik.  We were all invited into the local people's homes for tea, coffee and cakes. The tickets insured we arrived to the correct house.

Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

 

Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

We had some new, really cool excursions to offer everyone today.  Several people were able to go out fishing for Arctic Char in our Polar Cirkel boats while another group went exploring the  shoreline around Itilleq in sea kayaks.  The fishermen caught fish and the kayakers had a great time.

"A quick glance at their lineup and we knew we were "done like dinner" before the game even started.

Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

At 15:00 we started the traditional soccer match of Fram vs Itilleq.  Those of us that have played for team Fram on multiple occasions know the Itilleq team very well.  A quick glance at their lineup and we knew we were "done like dinner" before the game even started.  All their best players showed up today.  Last week many of them were out hunting or fishing. We had an excellent start right up until the opening kick-off.  From there it went steadily downhill.  

Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

The final result was Itilleq 10, Fram 2.  Despite the lop-sided score everyone had fun.  I think there were somewhere around thirty players on the small gravel pitch at once and there were lots of enthusiastic supporters for both teams.

Last week we had noticed that their soccer ball was in rough shape so we went shopping in Ilulissat yesterday and today presented team Itilleq with a brand new ball.  We also gave them Fram t-shirts and a Hurtigruten flag.

Itilleq Goal Keeper Has Something To Do!
Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

The new t-shirts made it much easier to identify who was on which team and the new flag was flapping merrily in the breeze  over Itilleq before we departed at 16:45.

At 18:30 we were invited to the Observation Lounge where we shared a cocktail and the Captain gave a warm farewell speech.  There were tears in more than one eye when the MV Fram sang the farewell song "A Beautiful Voyage."

Tonight Miki Jacobsen will be singing once again in the Observation Lounge and tomorrow promises to be a full day in Kangerlussuaq.

Ilulissat, the iceberg capitol of the World

It is no wonder that the Greenlandic name Ilulissat means icebergs. The Kangia Icefjord, which is also an UNESCO World Heritage Site, south of Ilulissat, is the most productive glacier on the northern hemisphere. Each day the glacier calves enormous icebergs straight into the fjord leaving it packed with ice for more than 50 km.

Esther Kokmeijer

Esther Kokmeijer

For many of us onboard Fram Ilulissat was the most anticipated place on our fantastic explorer cruise. And the cruise among the colossal iceberg was truly phenomenal.

Esther Kokmeijer

Ilulissat is also the Greenlandic sledge dog capitol, there are several thousand dogs all around the outskirts of the town. The dogs are used for the fishing of the halibut, which is the main fishery of the town.

Most of us went on the amazing cruise among the huge icebergs. We have seen quite a few icebergs on our journey along the cost, but seeing them up close from the local excursion boats was another story. The size and amount of these gigantic ice sculptures was astounding.

Esther Kokmeijer

On the hike to the Sermermiut Icefjord we could see the icebergs from land and passed through the remains of the old Inuit settlement, which back 300 years ago was the largest settlement in Greenland.

Esther Kokmeijer

At 18.30 Fram gently passed the icebergs of Ilulissat and set out on the Disco Bay. There on the calm waters we enjoyed a splendid show in the Observation Lounge presented by the ever smiling and brilliant crew of MS Fram.  

Esther Kokmeijer

A Paradice Of Ice

Qullissat
Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

This morning, at 09:00, we had an unexpected, unscheduled landing at the abandoned coal mining town of Qullissat. It was an eerie feeling to wander around by all the abandoned homes, most of which are still in terrific condition. It seemed as if everyone walked away just yesterday. In it's heyday, Qullissat was the largest town in Greenland. However the coal mine was not profitable and was closed down in 1972.

Qullissat
Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

 

Once again the scenery is breathtaking.  Steep, layered cliffs rise dramatically just behind the ghost town.  Sparkling snow patches brighten the rocky landscape and the sky is streaked with equal swaths of blue and white.

Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

By 11:00 everyone was back on Fram and we were underway once again. 

Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

In the afternoon the King of all Seas, King Neptune, paid us a visit to exact a toll for having crossed the Arctic Circle. Icy cold water was poured down the back of the neck.  It is always surprising how many people line up to have ice dumped down their back!

Today is one of our really big ice days.  Our objective was to reach the area of the glacier, Eqip Sermia.  The cruise down the narrow channels can be very exciting as they are often chock-a-block full of ice.  

Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

As we got closer to Eqip Sermia the ice floes and icebergs got more and more concentrated, eventually blocking our path to the glacier.

This has happened to us before in this area and like before the decision to launch the Polar cirkel boats and go cruising in the ice was quickly made.

At 18:00 the first group of 5 boats headed into the dense ice.  There was a beautiful waterfall just abeam of the ship.  We cruised slowly through the ice in the small boats to the very base of the waterfall.  Just to the left of the waterfall was a small colony of cormorants.

It was great fun to navigate around icebergs in the small open leads in the ice.  It was practically wind free.  The  calm surface water mirrored the thousands of icebergs.  It was a paradice of ice for photographers.

Uummannaq - Côte d'Azur du Nord

It was hard to believe that we were actually some 590 kilometers above the Arctic Circle today. People were walking around in shorts and t-shirts today and when sitting at the little café Emma by the harbor in Uummannaq we might as well have been sitting outside a café by the Mediterranean coast.



Photo; Esther Kokmeijer



The magnificent Uummannaq Mountain with its very characteristic heart shape is an ever impressing sight. Landscape wise it is definitely the highlight of the journey and the town and the area is all over Greenland known for its beauty.



Photo; Esther Kokmeijer



Some of us had an amusing and educational talk with a local hunter and fisherman named Ole Quist.  He is now 63 years old but as lately as in December last year he shot a narwhale and if weather permits he will be out fishing for halibut every day.



Photo; Esther Kokmeijer

 Uummannaq is also known in all of Greenland and Denmark as the home of Santa Claus. This is because of a very famous Danish Christmas TV-show that was shot in Uummannaq in 1989. For the show a cozy little hut was built and that hut was the destination of many of us today. It was situated beautifully in a little bay about an hour walk from Uummannaq. On the way we had a fantastic view over the amazing Uummannaq fiord.



Photo; Esther Kokmeijer

 Late in the afternoon we went to the picturesque little village of Ukkussisat 50 km. north of Uummannaq. Some of the locals came to the ship and gave us a splendid show of the Greenlandic national dance – the Greenlandic polka.



Photo; Esther Kokmeijer



Afterwards the dance show we took our PolarCircle boats and spend the evening in the tiny and very cute village.



Photo; Esther Kokmeijer



And now as the sun is shining and it looks like it’s late in the afternoon it is actually midnight and we are slowly sailing south again, back to the impressing icebergs of the Disco Bay.



Photo; Esther Kokmeijer



Qeqertarsuaq

Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

Qeqertarsuaq is a small, picturesque community of 845 people on Disco Island.  Like all Greenland communities, it is perched on the ocean's edge.  Warm brown volcanic cliffs rise steeply right behind the town.  Just outside of town there is a beautiful beach of black sand.

Ice Cruise Disco Bay
Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

We had a multitude of excursions today.  There were two walks to the waterfall at Blaesedalen.  There were two different trips to go ice cruising in Disco Bay and there was a guided town walk.  Once again we had perfect weather so just about everyone was able to participate in at least one of our programs.

Minke Whale meat for sale
Photo © Esther Kokmeijer

Just across from the ship we could see the carcass of a Minke Whale that someone had butchered on the shoreline.  Some of us were able to cruise over in the Polar Cirkel boats for a closer look.  There was little more than the vertebrae left as the carcass had been stripped clean of meat to be consumed by the local people.  There is subsistence whaling in Greenland.  Roughly 170 Minke Whales are hunted every year as well as several other species.

After a fabulous day in Qeqertarsuaq we lifted anchor at 16:00 and headed out into Disco Bay.  There are always many hundreds, and sometimes many thousands of icebergs in the large bay and today wasn't any different.  We followed the coastline of disco island towards the north and our destinations of tomorrow Uummannaq and Ukkusisat. 

At 21:15 the ship's officers, Expedition Team and crew staged an entertaining fashion show of many of the items for sale in the gift shop.  

Sunny Sisimiut

The Greenlandic coastline greeted us with a thick fog as we looked out of our portholes this morning. But just as soon as the town of Sisimiut was in sight the fog lifted and a beautiful sunny day was awaiting us.

Sisimiut is the second largest town in Greenland and approx. 5500 people live here.

When Fram nicely laid alongside the pier we were in no doubt that we had entered a fishing town. The inner harbor was covered by an armada of both smaller and larger fishing vessels.

Prawns are the main catch for the fish processing plant, but the local fishermen also fish flounder, catfish, cod, and at this time of the year the caviar from the lumpfish.  Some of us went to Hotel Sisimiut and had a taste of some of these very tasty delicacies.

 

The most agile of us went out with local guides to hike to the top of the nearby Palasip Qaqqaa (Priest Mountain), which is 551 meters high. It was quite a hike but it was definitely worth the effort having the beautiful view over Sisimiut from the top of the mountain.

The rest of us stayed in Sisimiut and had either a nice city tour with the local guides or went on our own and some took the historical hike back in time and learned of how Sisimiut had been populated by various Inuit cultures dating back to 2500 BC and up to present times.

Before departing Sisimiut a local kayakman came and gave us an impressive show of his skills with a Greenlandic kayak (called qajaq in Greenlandic).

Now we are on our way to the town of Qeqertarsuaq and the expedition team have told us to start looking for icebergs.