A CALM SEA DAY

As we woke up we found a calm and misty sea stable but with low visibility, which ensured us a soft ride through the sea, with basically no waves.  A few birds did follow us among them Fulmars and Kittiwakes and occasionally we saw some Guillemots in the water even do some of us saw a dolphin emerging on the side of the vessel. People got very relax and some reading and some eating their nut shells.

 

Right after lunch we did the rubber boot trial, that was for those persons that did not brought their own and thus to avoid to get wet during some of our landings. Later our guests went to some lectures and many participated in M.r Wang Chzn Ya, a master in Taoism where passengers were learning ways to relax the body. As the day progressed the fog was thicker and we had lesser visibility than in the morning. 

SMOKY BAY

We arrived to Reykjavik or smoky bay – this area was one of the first placed inhabited by the Vikings in the island and its name is to translate to smoky bay.  It is a clean and art oriented town from the street walk to street to bottle and other items recycling centers.

During the afternoon at our arrival soft rain came along while we embarked. After we got our vessel registration card and the rest of the paper work we did our mandatory safety drill.  As soon as the mandatory embarkation and check in work was done we left Reykjavik and departed with misty rainy weather and calm seas. Later during the evening we had a welcome reception on which our captain said some welcome words.

 

Snaesfeljokul, the Entrance to the Centre of the Earth

Grundafjordur Harbour and Polar Cirkel Boat

We didn't arrive in Iceland until 14:00 which left the morning wide open for lectures and the remainder of the bridge visits.  It was a busy morning for the Expedition Team as not only were they giving lectures and conducting bridge tours but they also had to compile the data for the Cd Log, create a master cd and then burn approximately 120 cds so that every guest would receive a comprehensive record of this voyage.  On the compact discs will be a voyage map with all of the landings and dates of the landings, a list of officers, the bio's of the Expedition Team, a list of the different nationalities on board the ship for this voyage, distance sailed, all of the daily programs and all of the blog postings.  Early this evening the  cds will be delivered to everyone's cabin. 

The sky was completely overcast throughout the morning but as we approached Grundafjordur the clouds began to break up and the sun poked through holes in the clouds more and more frequently.  Our local guides informed us that it had been raining in Iceland pretty much steadily for the last two weeks.  The sunshine was a welcome relief.

Motor Coach for our Excursions in Grundafjordur

At the pier there were four motor coaches waiting for us.  The first three set off on a large circular tour with the famous Snaefelsjokul (Glacier) in the centre of the circuit.  Even though the sun seemed to be shining more often than not, the top of Snaesfeljokul was obscured by clouds.  For those of you who are not fans of Jules Verne, Verne wrote in his famous novel, Journey to the Centre of the Earth,  that the entrance to the centre of the earth is found at Snaefelsjokul.  By the way, "jokul" in Icelandic means glacier, so to say "Snaesfeljokul Glacier" is like saying Snaefels glacier glacier.

Typical volcanic landscape in Iceland

The fourth motor coach set off for for the picturesque town of Stykkisholmur  where we joined a small boat for a nature tour in Breidafjordur Bay.  It was a lovely day for a cruise.  The boat did not have to go far before we were at a small island with a colony of seabirds.  The Captain gave a running narrative of the wildlife and the islands and at the same time skilfully navigated the boat extremely close to the cliff face where we were afforded excellent views of Kittiwakes, Fulmars and Shags on the nest.  We could also see Puffins in the grass but they were a little shy of the microphone and more often than not they ducked into their burrows.

Before we began our return to the harbour in Stykkisholmur, we stopped to pick up the small trawling net we had been dragging.  The crew poured the contents onto a sizeable table at the stern of the ship.  There was a large variety of small animals collected but the crew quickly busied themselves shucking scallops and preparing sea urchins and then dumped the remainder over the side. There was enough for everyone to sample some Icelandic Sushi.  There was even ginger, wasabi, soy sauce and chop sticks available.

The last motor coach returned to the ship at 20:10 which was a trifle late.  However dinner was still being served and the Captain's Farewell Cocktail was postponed until 21:30.

Where the sun never shines

Very often these days lectures on Nature almost magnetically get drawn into question on climate, especially after having visited Greenland that currently seems to experience many changes. Questions are arising about a po

ssible future of these areas, sceptical thoughts come up as to the sustainability of tourism or our ecological footprint. The climate development definitely is on everybody's mind, the awareness has risen significantly in the last few years. We can only encourage this mindful way of looking at our own traces, it is the greatest way of showing respect for Nature's wonders. Some might even express the concern that our mere presence in these sensitive waters is causing substantial harm to the unique nature. A valuable worry - so let's address it, here and now!

Often it is emphasised that awareness is best achieved through knowledge, so going to places is the straightest way to make you ambassadors of fragile places; but this can only be half the comfort, hasn't it just a bit of the ring of an excuse to it? Why not come up with hard facts about our ship? - Maybe it is not half as bad as one thinks.

In order to find out about that we took the liberty of venturing deep down into the bowels of our ship together with our Chief Engineer. These places are usually out of bounds for us, as there is a lot of sharp edges, moving parts and high voltage everywhere. However, we want to find out things, so down we go. But whoever expected giant pistons swooshing through the oily air, a labyrinth of greasy pipes through an hellish inferno of noise, got slightly surprised. A modern, rather neat hall, brightly lit, and not a moving part in sight.

Well, FRAM is a  modern ship, a VERY modern ship. The concept of propulsion is entirely different from ancient vessels - we are basically driving with electric propellers...

Those are fed by our on-board power plant, consisting of four MAK diesel generators, each delivering 1.912 kw, which are installed deep inside the ship, where they rattle away, clean, totally spill-free and isolated.

These generators are the source of ALL the ships power: Light, heating, water purification, cooking, pumps for shower, water, ballast, cooling, air condition, safety equipment, TV, computers - everything that needs electricity is powered by these four engines, propulsion is only a small part of it. The energy is created only in the necessary amount and directed straight to where needed. Power on demand in its purest form. To entertain all life support, all comfort, and provide moderate speed in good weather we need only one out of four, which is extra efficient.

Only when weather or schedule force us to, we roll on two generators, sometimes on three and only in the most extreme cases on all four engines.

All energy gets used several times; the surplus temperature from the exhaust will give its energy back into the system and heat the boiler water, seawater intakes are diverted to low-temperature cooling for the generator system; so all the energy goes where it is supposed to go. A turbo charger supplies high pressure which leads to more efficient combustion.

Nothing gets wasted.

What does this mean? Well, let's crunch some numbers! 

1) Last month's consumption was 74 l of Marine Diesel per nautical mile, which is average.

2) This trip is 2112 miles long, which is about 3911 km.

3) So we used 156.288 l all in all, which equals roughly 12.6 l/100km per person on board.

Again - this is for EVERYTHING, the whole stay on board, all the meals, the hotel part, the entertainment. And of course the transportation. If you take the transport alone, you end up with approx. 10l/100 km. Marine Diesel, which is even not heavier than car diesel.

So going with FRAM equals going with an economy car.

Would you have thought that?

Further excitement waited in the course of the day during the charity auction, this time featuring among others a beautiful pencil sketch by Miki Jacobsen. The public question-and-answer round with the ship's management team set a harmonic endpoint to a very interesting day.

Foiled by Ice Once again!

Our plan was to cruise through Prince Christian sound and then on into The Denmark Strait.  Foiled by Ice and also heavy fog once again.  In the middle of the night the decision was made to turn around and take the outside route in Denmark Strait on our way to Iceland.  The Denmark Strait can be one of the most tempestuous ocean regions in the world but we had winds of only 10 to 15 metres/sec.  It was a strong enough wind to raise the seas to one or two metres and to cast a gentle roll to Fram.  All in all, quite comfortable cruising conditions for the entire day.

Group Photo with All Guests and Expedition Team

Group Photo with repeat guests and Expedition Team

We took advantage of the excellent sailing conditions for a group photo on deck 5 forward.  In fact we took two group photos.  One photo shows all of our guests on board plus the Expedition Team and the other shows the Expedition Team plus people that love Fram so much, that they are now on their 2nd, 3rd and even 4th voyages with us!  We are proud that you have chosen to sail with us on more than one occasion.  We take that as a pat on the back that we must be doing something right.  Thank you!

Crew show!!!

With good sea conditions and no landings it was a great day to attend a lecture or perhaps watch a film in the Observation Lounge. The lecture halls were busy for most of the day with lectures in English, German and Scandinavian.  Of course has other amenities not just lecture halls.  If you haven't found the sauna or used the jacuzzi yet, these sea days are the perfect time for that.  Fram's sauna is one of the nicest saunas on any ship (believe me, I've been on lots of ships!)  There are many areas with huge picture windows like the bistro for example that are perfect for sitting quietly and watching the sea.  For the more active types there is a small but very well equipped gym, by the way, also with floor to ceiling windows and of course there are always the outside decks for a breath of fresh sea air.

Crew Show!!!

Sea days are tranquil days providing ample opportunities for rest, relaxation and education.

We ended a beautiful sea with another rollickin' crew show.

Aka Day

Probably the most renowned contemporary artist in Greenland is Aka Hoegh, who grew up and still lives in Qaqortoq, a cosy little town in Greenlands South.

Aka Hoegh's chef d'oevre

Inspired already at the age of seven years by the integration of people, their houses, the abundant plant life and the ubiquitous rock faces, she started a project in 1993 by the name of "Stone and Man", involving 11 Nordic artists at that time who all literally left their mark in the rocks all over town.

It is an open project, and by now 31 pieces of art are to be found in the rocks of Qaqortoq, a truly unique open air collection.

...and her latest work

Lupines and Buttercup

But this is not the only attraction the capital of the Kujalleq municipality has to offer - the museum, the churches, the beautiful fountain (which for a long time was the only one in Greenland), made of the distinct Igaliko sandstone, the lake and river - and flowers, flowers, flowers.

Want to write a postcard to this address?

In the late afternoon our guests had the opportunity to join a Kaffemik, traditional meal in the house of a Greenlandic family. But today this family was very special as well: Our team member Aka grew up here, so we congregated in her mother's house to enjoy marvellous sweets and good strong coffee.

The Man in a Net

At the same time it was kind of a sad occasion, since our dear Aka was staying behind with her family - she is going to get married in two days only! Well, that sure counts as an excuse, doesn't it?

So the little red silhouette grew smaller and smaller on the pier as we made our way out of Qaqortoq.

Farewell, Aka! See you next year...

Miki's Mask Dance

Only two Greenlanders left on the team now. One of them, Miki, the allround artist, gave an impressive glance into the past with a traditional mask dance, impersonating the funny, the scary, and the animalistic side of the "People" - the Inuit.

Two Towns Per Day Makes Up For Ivittuut!

Okay.  Yesterday we had a storm which caused us to miss Ivittuut, but now we are making up for it, with two towns today and two landings again tomorrow!  

We arrived in Narsaq a little before 08:00.  A cargo vessel had the pier booked before us, so we anchored just outside of the harbour.  On the way down to deck two we grabbed a town map at reception. 

Narsaq

It was easy to walk around this small and friendly community by yourself.  In fact Narsaq has the reputation of being one of the friendliest communities in Greenland.  However the Greenlanders on our Expedition Team from Qaqortoq, Maijken and Aka, took umbrage with that and claimed Qaqortoq, is just as friendly!     A short three minute Polar Cirkle boat ride, brought us to a lovely pier situated very centrally.  

The kayakers went off kayaking and we, the hikers, went off hiking.  We followed our local guide up a steep ascent of a low mountain right behind town.  There has been a lot of rain in South Greenland during the past two weeks.  In fact it rained yesterday and there was a threat of rain in the air today.  The result of all of that precipitation being wet, squishy terrain.  I can't speak for the others, but before long, I had very soggy socks, despite having quality hiking boots. 

Hikers on the mountain behind Narsaq

Wildflowers were profuse with species heretofore unseen in our journey as they are more specific to the South.  New species of wildflowers included; Alpine Ladies Mantle, Rock Speedwell and Three-toothed Cinquefoil. Alpine Bartsia, various Buttercups and Hawkweeds flourished.  
When we reached the half-way point we were at 355 metres with a superb view of Narsaq and Fram.  At the summit someone had built many cairns, possibly as many as one hundred. These Inukshuks ranged in size from a half metre to three metres tall.

While we were exploring the hillsides of Narsaq we could see our kayakers paddling about icebergs wa-y-y-y below and tiny blue-clad shipmates walking the streets of Narsaq with a local guide. 

The last boat back to Fram left shore at 13:30.  Three hours later we were dropping anchor just off the shore of the tiny agricultural community of Qassiarsuk.  The population varies between 60 and 90 people depending on the season - the summer, of course, being the busiest time.

Statue of Leif the Lucky in Qassiarsuk

 

Qassiarsuk was one of the original Viking settlements in Greenland and was the home of Erik the Red.  Many people chose to go on a guided walk of the settlement with Edda, a flamboyant Icelandic woman dressed in Viking clothing.  She regaled everyone with energetic stories of the Vikings.

Edda and Truls in Qassiarsuk

While Edda entertained, many other people chose to go on a small boat excursion to Qooroq Glacier.

Ice Cruise to Qooroq Glacier

There were thirteen different departures in local small but very comfortable boats. 

Chopping up Glacial Ice for Martinis

Each of the boats found a quiet place to stop to admire the view and collect glacial ice for martinis enjoyed by everyone!  It was still very overcast, in fact it was raining by the time the last of the Qooroq excursions made it back to the ship at 21:30.

Martinis in front of Qooroq Glacier

Neptunes Vow

Already in the old legends and sagas powerful gods had a knack for making grand or surprising entrances, just to rub in the fact that they are great and we are oh so little.

When good ol' Neptune promised a "full storm" the other day to bring down over the heads of us "pale faces", he didn't say when.

Now we know.

After leaving Nuuk everybody was prepared for a gentle ride towards the South of Greenland, at least this was what the forecast had in store for us. Didn't happen...In the course of the night FRAM started heaving and rolling, the world outside was putting on a battle armour, with white crests being blown away horizontally off the growing waves that kept pounding our ship right against the bow. The windspeed mounted and mounted until we had over 33 m/s. That is a little stronger that Beaufort 12...

Thank you, Neptune, this is not only a storm but a serious hurricane!

So the front decks were out of bounds, and the inner decks went pretty silent; these were heavy seas and not ever stomach can take it. Our speed dropped down to 6-7 knots against the fierce storm, which made it impossible to reach our afternoon's destination, Ivittuut. 

A quiet ship was gliding through the night, hoping for better weather the next day. But hey! - this is exactly what two people promised: Anja mentioned it in the beginning, an expedition cruise will always be subject to changes, so expect the unexpected. And then there was that smug old bearded guy with the trident who practically made a vow to serve us storm.

Why, thank you, old Man of the Seas!
However, quite many made it up to the Panorama Lounge where our galley wizards showed their skills with chisel and knives and created the most beautiful decorations in just no time. Don't try this at home...

No Internet Connection for Over Two Days. Sorry!

Ahh, the wonders of hi tech.  We have internet service on a ship that wanders the globe.  We can get current weather forecasts, up to the minute news reports, post updates on Facebook, stay in touch with loved ones, check the stock market and a myriad of other things. Except for when we can't.  Like the last two days for example. It can be frustrating when you're on board Fram and we don't have an internet connection. Perhaps it's slightly frustrating for you at home if you're trying to keep track of Fram on a daily basis.  It is always our intention to post a few words about our adventures on board Fram, every single day, 365 days per year, but s--t happens.  This time we had technical difficulties of some sort. I'm not exactly clear what they were.  Sometimes we lose our internet connection when we are high in the Arctic.  At high latitudes, the satellites from which we get our internet connection are low on the horizon.  Frequently we will lose the signal when we duck into a fjord.    The signal is blocked by the mountains.  For example, we lose the connection every time we enter Kangerlussuaq Fjord.  So if you don't see a new blog every day it is most often because we do not have an internet connection. Generally, it is written and the pictures are ready.  We always post it as soon as we can! 

Fram at the pier in Nuuk

We arrived at the pier in Nuuk, the capital of Greenland, at 09:00.  As soon as the gangway was prepared the 23 participants on the 4.5 hour  Lille Milene hike, hopped on their bus and off they went.  The hike begins just behind the cities' airport and then meanders along streams and waterfalls through the rocky terrain so typical of most areas in Greenland.  The wildflowers are still in full bloom with Trailing Azaleas and Blue Heath in profusion.  While the hikes were exploring the hinterland others chose to see what the administrative, economic and art centre of Greenland had to offer.  There was a city tour by motor coach.  One could choose to visit the museum or just wander about Nuuk on your own.

500 year old Greenland Mummy on display in the national museum

The Greenland art and cultural centre in Nuuk

The past few days were very rainy in Nuuk but it seems the sun has been following in our wake.  This was the first day of sunshine in four days and tomorrow in Nuuk?  Well, the forecast is for storms with high winds.  But not so much where we are going.  The forecast for Ivituut is for scattered showers and low winds.  We'll see what the morrow brings.

Heading South

Fog in the morning

Humpback in the way

Wildflowers are taking over

After this unreal ice experience we had yesterday it seems that there is something missing in the ocean now - not a single piece of ice is in our way as we steam towards Sisimiut. Dense fog has settled on the sea instead, only revealing about 30-40 meters of surface at a time. The foghorn sends its mighty sound into the misty world around us, it feels like being suspended in the Great White Void.

Children painted a welcome sign for Assaqutaq

What would have cause any ship in the old days to drop anchor and wait until the visibility comes back is not a problem anymore in the 21st century, where GPS and radar give us a fairly good image of landscape and position. So with practically no delay we arrive at the second biggest city in Greenland and - go to pier, which is a real treat, no boat shuttles needed.

And, like pre-arranged, the fog is lifting considerably. So all the excursions are a Go: The long distance hikers take off to conquer Palaasip Qaqa, a steep viewpoint mountain on the northern side of Sisimiut Fjord. Shortly after the various other activities are launched, like the city tour by bus (which is such a rare thing in Greenland!), the tasting of Greenlandic food, including the legendary fish soup, and the really charming tour to the abandoned village Assaqutaq , which was crowned by the sighting of whales on each and every single trip.

We leave under the silver glow of the late afternoon light, sighing in front of so much beauty. 

And just before midnight there is an announcement...this can only mean one thing - whales again. But not just the odd whale in the distance, this time it is a whole pod in a feeding frenzy, breaching, bubble-feeding, moving back and forth just in front of our bow. The decks are swarming with people in shear awe, some moments in life are so significant you will always carry them with you...