Liefdefjorden and Mushamna

This morning when we entered into Liefdefjorden, it was snowing that one couldn't see where we really were. Of course the bridge knew exactly with all their equipment but looking out from the breakfast table it was all white and light grey around. At position in front of Monacobreen all of a sudden there were some lighter spots and the mountains were visible.

For some time it changed repeatedly between white and a little bit of visibility - slightly improving. So we decided to start with the polar circle boat cruising in front of the glacier. The right decision, because within the next hour the visibility improved further. In this light situation with a thin layer of clouds and snow on the mountains almost all the way down to sea level, the glacier front appeared in intense blue colors.

Ivory Gulls

Black-legged Kittiwake

Arctic Tern

During lunch time we left Liefdefjorden, crossed Woodfjorden to the eastern side to land at Mushamna. The hut was built during the late 1980s by Reidar Hovelsrud. He started the construction in the inner part of Wijdefjorden, but he was forced by the administration to move to another place in the northern part of Woodfjorden. When he arrived with the ship that carried all the construction material it was not possible to land there and the decision was made to land at Mushamna where the hut and its later extensions and additions are today located.

Part of the passengers went on hikes into the valley behind Mushamna, others enjoyed a walk around the buildings and along the shoreline of Woodfjorden.

Later in the evening we arrived at 80 dregree North where the small island of Moffen is located. This time there was a big group of walruses ashore and not as lazy as they sometimes seem to be ashore.

Two More Bears!!

This morning we visited Ny Ålesund, one of the northernmost communities in the world.  At 08:30 we began to assemble in language groups on the pier.  It was a pleasant relief to have the sun beaming down upon us. Still, it was a chilly morning at about 2ºC. There was a fresh blanket of snow covering all of the mountain peaks. August 11 and Old Man Winter was already waking up.   Soon enough we lead on a walk through the small but fascinating town. As we strolled about town, the Expedition Team told us stories of tragedy and death and stories of grand adventure. The town was built for coal mining.  Over the years there were many accidents the last of which was in 1962 when 21 miners died in a methane explosion. After that the mine was shut down. In the years that followed that tragic event, Ny Ålesund has enjoyed a history of Arctic science and research. As many as 15 nations conduct research here annually.

We were also told about the great race to the north pole This is where Roald Admundsen launched his Zeppelin in 1926 and successfully flew to the north pole and back. It is where Umberto Nobile’s subsequent challenging expedition ended in death, intrigue and tragedy.  It was where Admiral Byrd flew to the north pole 2 days before Admunsen, cheating him from being the first.  The thing is, historians agree that Admiral Byrd cheated. They don't believe he made it to the north pole.

After the guided walk, many people took the opportunity to send post cards. It is unlikely that their friends and family will ever receive another piece of mail from such a northerly destination. There was ample time to explore Ny Ålesund, whether it be a visit to the  gift shop or just wandering about on your own.

By 11:45 everyone that went into Ny Ålesund was back on the ship. Fram cast off her lines and moved slowly into Kongsfjord. Fram positioned where we could more expeditiously retrieve the last of the hikers at Conway Glacier as well as the kayakers. By about 13:30 everyone was back on board and we were on our way once again.

As we approached Fjortende Julibukta our intended landing site for the afternoon, it bacame apparent that there was too much wind and too much wave action at the beach to make a safe landing.  The decision was made to abort the landing here and move on to another site about 1 hour's further travel.

Enroute to Kollen Fjord  we encountered two Polar Bears, a female with a coy (cub of the year). The two were about 700 metres from the ship on the side of a hill of moraine. Outside the weather had taken a turn for the worse.  It was blowing a gale with a mixture of sleet and snow. Most people chose to observe the bears from the comfort of the Observation lounge on deck seven. The bears however are perfectly adapted to such inclement weather.  The two lay down in the moraine and observed us observing them.

As it continued to blow outside it became more and more clear that to attempt a landing in such conditions would not be the possible. The timing of these bears could not have been better.

After about 45 minutes we left the bears and mounted a schedule of lectures to fill the late afternoon and early evening. One of the challenges the Expedition Team faces when in Svalbard is to actually find time in our busy schedule of landings to put on lectures!

Glacier, Lagoon and "Polar Bear's Hut"

Early in the morning we entered through Bellsund into Recherchefjorden. Low clouds and fine rain did not stop us from going ashore. The tide was very low, but one or two days earlier the high tide must have been very high since a couple of meters of the moraine that is bordering the outflow of the lagoon had been washed away.

Many kittiwakes again and again were flying up the outflow, landing on the water and then let themselves drift down while carefully watching for small fish and other food.

With the high tide that had reached into the lagoon many ice blocks drifted ashore or grounded close to the shoreline.

Many passengers were interested to learn about the birds the surrounding geology and having the great view over the lagoon towards the Recherche Glacier, they of course wanted to learn about the ice.

After a lunch break we landed at the neighbouring Ahlstrandodden to visit the former Beluga hunting station "Bamsebu" which means "The polar bear's hut". At this place in the 1930s a group of men from Norway, led by Ingvald Svenson, carried out a more or less land based whaling method. They caught belugas by fixing one end of a net ashore and rowing with the other end out into the bay. When belugas were swimming into the net the men rowed back to the shore and slaughtered the animals. Their blubber was cooked for oil and also the whale's skin was used. The men piled up the bones of an estimated 550 belugas along the beach.

While doing a walk with the passengers the sky cleared a bit and we could see the wonderful succession of sediments from Permian to Tertiary on the northern side of Van Keulenfjord.

On our way North towards new adventures we passed by some fin whales with their blows shining in the evening sun.

A Female with a Cub!

This morning we had a more leisurely start to the day.  the first item on our agenda was a welcome speech and cocktail with the Captain in the Observation Lounge.  Perhaps it was a trifle early for a glass of champagne but I didn't notice anyone complaining.  The Captain gave a brief but warm speech welcoming them to Fram and then a toast to a happy voyage.  He then introduced key members of the ship which was followed by the Expedition Leader introducing the Expedition Team.

At 11:15 it was time to be fitted with Muck Boots™.  Almost all of our landings in Spitsbergen are wet landings.  Proper foot wear is essential.  

At approximately 13:00 the Captain announced from the bridge that two Polar Bears had been spotted on the port side.  The dining was full and everyone rushed over to the large picture windows on the port side in the hopes of getting a view of Ursus Maritimus, the single most charismatic quadri-pedal mega fauna in all of Svalbard.  Outside the bow deck quickly filled with people. Everyone was anxious to get a glimpse of the iconic animal of the Arctic.  But certainly more than a glimpse was possible.  everyone got excellent views of the female swimming with her cub in her wake.  At one point the two climbed onto an ice floe but without hesitation they immediately jumped back into the polar sea.  It was our best bear sighting so far this season!  I am sure it is sight  indelibly printed on everyone's mind.

The bear sighting put our schedule back by about 45 minutes.  As we approached Gnålodden the clouds lowered, enveloping Fram in a blanket of misty grey.  It was on everyone's mind, "would we be able to land in the fog"?   

It turned out that by the time of the afternoon landing at 15:00 the fog was a little thinner.  The visibility was at least 400 metres.  No problem.  On shore at Gnålodden we were able to climb to within 100 metres of a huge colony of raucous Black-legged Kittiwakes.  Glaucous Gulls soared in their midst as did Fulmars.  Now and then a Puffin would go whirring by.  The Guillemot chicks were old enough to take their first flight and icy plunge into the sea.  Occasionally you could see a fledgling escorted by a parent or two descend down to the sea.  What a stirring sight.

The mist was so heavy that it was borderline rain.  Within minutes your outer garments would be dripping.  However modern day textiles are such that a heavy mist is not even a mild inconvenience.

The last Polar Cirkel boat left the shore at 19:00.  Soon after we heaved anchor and headed somewhat into the open sea.  We were headed for the drop-off zone where we hoped to see whales.

Tune in again tomorrow to find out if we had any luck spotting the leviathans of the deep.

Magdalenefjord

This morning we pay “ol’ Matillas” homage by climbing up Bruceneset in Raudfjorden. His grave is a poignant reminder of yet another trapper who died of scurvy. But alas, what a view this is from his last resting place. The long-stretched Raudfjorden with its washed out red sediments from the adjacent old Devonian sandstone mountains give this fjord its sublime attraction. On our way out of Raudfjorden our expedition leader decides to turn the ship back into the fjord as a polar bear turns had been spotted by another cruise ship. Well, still at a certain distance, however far closer than the one we had seen at Recherchefjorden.

We continued our journey and turned the bow of the MV FRAM and head southbound through Smeerenburgfjorden to probably one of the most picturesque fjords of the world: Magdalenefjord.

Enthused by the pristine beauty, we disembark to our landingsite at ‘Gravneset’ at the Magdalenefjord for a guided tour on the history of whaling. Some travel-books hint towards the need to visit “one hundred world-famous destinations” before one is allegedly ‘granted’ the right to depart this world. At least these are the provoking titles of some travelogues. Amongst those hundred destinations the ‘whale-hunting’ fjord: ‘Magdalenefjord’ is on many a bespoke author’s list. On arriving at the fjord, we grasp this concept even more: We enjoy the placid atmosphere of the fjord. ‘Graveneset’ - the old burial place of the whalers – towers forlorn above the low-lying sandy beaches that were referred to by the English whalers as Trinity Bay. This place is definitely a captivating place. There is this inexplicable eeriness hovering around this mystical destination. Particularly when thinking back to the 17^th century and imagining the up to 200-300 ton wooden whaling ships and their auxiliary rowing-boats that were once all afloat in this fjord trying to harpoon the slow swimming Greenland right whale. Simultaneously, 2 hiking groups explore the Gullybreen area. This glacier has retreated quite dramatically. Old travel-guides from the 1930s show the glacier front protruding into the Magdalenfjord.

We continue our exploration of this unique pristine landscape. While the sturdy MS FRAM steams wholeheartedly into southerly direction, it passes the sun-lit mountainridges of the seven sister glaciers.

Walrus North of 80˚!!!

My favourite thing to do on board Fram is to go cruising in our Polar Cirkel boats, especially when there is lots of ice. This morning at 08:00 we were anchored at the head of Liefdefjorden not far from the large and beautiful glacier called Monaco Glacier (Monacobreen).  At 08:30 we put the Polar Cirkel boats in the water and went for a cruise along the glacier face. Monaco is a tidewater glacier. The terminus is a full five kilometres long. In the thirty minutes that was allotted for each cruise we were able to see much of the glacier face. On board Fram we have a minimum safe distance to a glacier front of 200 metres.  This is still close enough for great photos and with good binoculars you could see thousands of seabirds feasting in the areas of fresh water glacial outflow.

Monaco is an actively calving glacier. It seldom fails that on a visit to Monaco large chunks of ice fall spectacularly into the sea.  Today was no exception and as a result there was a lot of brash ice extending about three hundred metres from the glacier.  We were able to explore the edge of the brash where hundreds of Black-legged Kittiwakes, Northern Fulmars and Glaucous Gulls perched on the ice.  Parasitic Jaegers zoomed through the air chasing Kittiwakes with the purpose of stealing their food.  Today we were especially in luck as there were several Ivory Gulls along the glacier near the fresh water outflow.  Ivory Gulls are one of the most beautiful gulls in the world.  They are snow white with black legs and a yellow bill and are found only in the high arctic.

By 13:30 everyone had had a chance to go for a cruise in the Polar cirkel boats and at 14:00 we heaved anchor and headed for our next destination, Mushamna.

This time we chose a different landing site at Mushamna.  A site that was more sheltered in a beautiful bay. We started the landing at 16:30. The first people off the ship were those that had opted to go on a 3 hr hike.  While it was another overcast day, it was very good conditions for hiking.  Once all 100 hikers were on shore the Polar Cirkel boats began ferrying people to a beach closer to the hunter's cabin. The Expedition Team established a large perimetre within which everyone was free to roam.  In a small pond beside the cabin there was a family of Red-throated Loons and a small flock of Brant Geese as well as several Common Eider ducks.

It is possible to over winter in the cabin.  Each year there is a different tenant as qualified people need to apply to the Governor of Svalbard.  Tenancy is for one year only, with a possibility to extend for a year, however Mushamna has been empty for the past four years.

At around 20:30 the 1st of the hikers returned to the landing site.  This hike is not considered difficult nevertheless there is a substantial amount of steady uphill walking which often leaves more than one person short of breath.  The hike winds through a beautiful valley with steep mountains on three sides.  This is a place where you can truly listen to the silence. There was barely a breath of wind.  No birds calling.  No engine noise from the ship or Polar Cirkel boats.  None of the noise associated with the trappings of a modern society. It was  truly serene.  

Soon after the last hiker's returned to the ship, Fram was on her way to Moffen Island where we hoped to see Walrus. At about 22:30 we crossed N80˚ and could plainly see a group of Walrus huddled together just up from the beach.  Fram stood about three hundred metres off shore where we had excellent views of these unique marine mammals.

In the afternoon we set our course for Moffen Island which would be the most northerly point of our journey. It would take several hours to to get there so we used the opportunity to slot in several lectures on ice and geology.

Moffen Island is a protected nature reserve situated just above 80˚ N. That is very far north indeed. To quote a friend of mine, “if you had a globe of the earth you would need to look under the brass cap at the top to find Moffen Island.”

Shortly after 17:00 we approached the tiny island. It was barely above sea level and seemed no more than a sand bar.  However, this low, flat piece of sand and gravel is very important as a Walrus haul-out and is also an important nesting site for Arctic Terns. Indeed, we counted between sixty and seventy Walruses in three groups packed tightly together.

Well, this was a cause to celebrate! Not only did we have excellent views of one of the most extraordinary of all pinnipeds but we had crossed 80˚ North at the same time!

Exploring the Kongsfjorden

In the early hours MV FRAM entered the majestic 20 km long Kongsfjorden amidst low-lying clouds, which occasionally were pushed away by some patches of sun offering us a unique scenery of the Kongsfjorden. Eventually, the MV FRAM arrived close to the remains of a marble mining facility established in 1911 by the Northern Exploration Company headed by the turn-of-the-century adventurer Ernest Mansfield. The dream of a quick profit ended after just a few years of trial operations. Not surprisingly, the marble turned out to be useless, and the blocks crumbled due to frost action. 

Simultaneously, some of the passengers headed for a glacier walk on the lower parts of the ‘Conwaybreen’. From this vantage point one can glean an intimate insight into the physics of a glacier. Again, another example of breathtaking pristine nature.

The day was packed with endless activities. Ny-Ålesund, the former coal-mining settlement, which is allegedly the most northerly located settlement in the Arctic was the next port of call. It discontinued its mining activities following a major mining explosion in the 1960s. 

After this tragic incident, the settlement has been transformed into a world reknown research settlement, focussing on climate change. We also meet Roald Amundsen – not in person – but this time cast in bronze. The research settlement’s significance is inextricably linked with early Norwegian polar history and still pays homage to its iconic adventurous visitor. Our lecturers guide us through the convoluted history of this settlement. Eventually we can leave the settlement for a short while and visit the anchoring mast which Amundsen used to fly to the Northpole with the airship called ‘Norge’, before we head out into the Krossfjorden.

Polar Bear on the Landing Site!

The Expedition Team hit the beach in front of Recherche Glacier at 08:15. They "half-loaded" their rifles and then dispersed around the perimeter of the landing site like a well oiled machine.

There is excellent visibility at this location as there is a large glacial lake in front of the glacier and then in front of the lake there is a great  moraine plain. Generally that means we can spot a bear early if there is one on the site.  Which is precisely what happened this morning. We were barely all in position and had given the "all clear" when Manuelito spotted a Polar Bear swimming in the glacial lake. The bear was at least a kilometre away. The Expedition Team kept a watchful eye on the bear and at the same time,  tightened up the perimeter.

The decision was made to send a Polar Cirkel boat up a short glacial stream which led into the lake in order to better keep en eye on the bear. The bear tried to climb onto ice floes a couple of times but wasn't successful. When it became apparent that the bear was steadily making its way eastward and away from the landing site it was decided that we could very safely continue with the landing.

Eventually the bear went on shore near the glacier and disappeared from site about 3 kilometres away. Well, that certainly added some excitement to the morning!

As the day progressed the clouds began to disperse and the sun illuminated Recherche Glacier in dappled sunlight. The morning passed without further incident. By 12:30 everyone was back on Fram.

In the afternoon we landed at Bamsebu which is Norwegian for Bear Cabin or more likely closer in meaning to Teddy Bear's Cabin. The name Bamsebu is carved over the entrance of a beautiful small log cabin just up from the beach and the landing site.  The cabin was most likely transported there by the NEC (Norwegian Exploration Company) many years ago.  Now it is used as a summer cottage by some people in Longyearbyen.

The beach in front of Bamsebu has heaps of Beluga Whale bones left over from the 1930s.  The bones represent an estimated 550 whales. The Beluga whales were hunted for their skin and blubber. The meat was not consumed but was discarded.

Around 14:30 the first passengers arrived on shore. Everyone was divided into language groups and were given a guided tour of the site by the Expedition Team. The tour led down the beach, by Bamsebu (hut), across a tundra plain and over to the bay where the whales were hunted over 80 years ago and eventually ended up at the landing site after having completed a large circuit.

Some passengers opted to go on a kayaking excursion which took them to a small group of islands with a large population of Eider ducks.

By 19:00 everyone had left the beach and was back on Fram.

In the evening there briefings for the plans for tomorrow and then at 21:45 everyone went to the Observation lounge on deck Seven where the Officers, Crew and Expedition Team put on a fashion show which featured many items from the gift shop.

Fog and awe!

We woke up to a foggy day in the Hornsund. Why would it always be foggy here?  Maybe the countless ice floes originating in the Barents Sea which all too often drift around the southern headland into the wide open mouth of the Hornsund, have something to do with it.  Due to its vicinity to the ice ocean currents of the Barents Sea this fjord is the coldest Fjord Svalbard can offer. However a warm welcome by the captain, Rune Andreassen, his crew and expedition-staff cheered us somewhat up, probably also because the captain announced the favourable weather forecast with light northerly west winds. But no one had mentioned the lurking fog.

Although thick fogbanks in varying density made their incursions into the visibility of the place, the expedition-team headed out to do reconnaissance at the landing site at “Gnålodden”. Eventually, the final “go ahead” was given. The somewhat surreal atmosphere of the landing site took us instantly with awe.

The protruding massive cliff-formation of “Gnålodden” revealed its breath-taking, mist-covered sublime beauty. Incidentally, we could see almost “suicidal” juvenile Brünnich Guillemots’ attempts to learn flying in the most awkward way while plunging down from the high cliffs to the surface of the fjord. Some of them never made it to the fjord, because of  greedy predatory Glaucous gulls. However, it was our professional ornithologist who rejoiced every time the challenging flight-manoeuvres ended successfully on the fjord.

One might think: Another day in Arctic paradise!

A New Adventure

Before 16:00 practically all of the ship's complement were ready and eagerly waiting the arrival of our new passengers.  Promptly at 16:00 the first motor coaches arrived at the pier which is located just on the outskirts of Longyearbyen.  A light rain was falling as the first guests went through the check in process.  It was a rather speedy and very efficient process as 240 people were checked in within an hour!

Once we were shown to our cabins we went to the Framheim lecture room where we were issued our light blue expedition jackets.  Shortly after that we attended a mandatory safety drill on deck five.  It was interesting to watch.  I am sure that more than one person wondered what it would be like to don a thermal protection suit and life vest should an emergency situation occur.

Right after the drill we departed Longyearbyen and set a course for the Russian coal mining community of Barentsburg.  Barentsburg has a population of 500 people, the majority of which are from Ukrania and Russia.  Upon arrival we disembarked the ship by boat group and headed up the obligatory 242 steps leading into the centre of the community.  A light rain was falling which added to the bleak atmosphere of Barentsburg but our young and cheery Russian guide indicated that life in Barentsburg was anything but bleak.  She loved it there and described how problems were few and that living there was like being with a large extended family.  Everyone cared for one another.  Judging by her smile and cheery demeanour, I readily believed it.

At the top we met our Russian guides and the Expedition Team.  We headed off in four large groups;  two German language groups, one Scandinavian and one English group.  The tour took a little more than thirty minutes after which we headed to a beautiful old theatre where the locals put on an excellent show of Russian folk dancing and music.  At 22:45 the show was over and by 23:00 everyone was back on board.

A Spectacular Last Day!

At approximately 08:00 we arrived at the impressive bird cliffs of Alkehornet. High above us Kittiwakes wheeled about the horn shaped massif.  The strident calls of thousands of seabirds filled the air. The low cloud cover and grey sky lent a somber air to the imposing mountain scape.  In short order the Expedition Team had dispersed over an immense landing site, making sure there weren't any lurking bears about.

By 08:30 the first boat groups were called ashore.  A large group of Reindeer grazed quietly on the lush vegetation for which Alkehornet is known.  It was difficult to get an accurate count but there were approximately 100 animals in the herd.  This population of reindeer is not hunted and in addition, the site is very well visited, consequently the reindeer have become habituated to people.  On more than one occasion an astonished passenger had a Reindeer approach within three or four metres as it quietly nibbled the green grass.

Lots of folks got to see an energetic Arctic fox scurrying about the site. 

Arctic Skuas and Glaucous Gulls were actively predating upon the chicks of Black Guillemot as they plunged from their nests.  The Glaucous Gulls were also seen preying on Little Auks, while the Arctic Fox was seen taking a Skua chick.

We were free to go exploring over a huge green plain and for those of us that craved more exercise, we could walk up a steep slope where there was a great overview of the entire area.

Our Kayakers at Skansebukta

Around 13:30 everyone was back on board and we set a course for Alkehornet.  During the afternoon the crew ran a safety drill.  It was comforting to know that the crew on this ship is very well rehearsed for emergencies.  
At 15:00 we all met in the observation lunge for the Captain's farewell and cocktail.  The crew, officers and Expedition Team sang a touching farewell song after the Captain's speech.

At 17:00 we arrived at Skansebukta.  We didn't think it possible but the landscape here is even more impressive than at Alkehornet.  The landscape is sort of Grand Canyon-ish and reminds one of John Ford's grand westerns. One could easily imagine John Wayne herding some long horns below the cliffs. 

Lots of people opted to trek up to a very high waterfall where they got a lofty view from a Fulmar's perspective.  The cliff face was riddled with Fulmar nests.  Puffins constantly whirred by with their little wings flapping at a furious 400 bpm.  

On the way back to the ship we were treated to a short Polar Cirkel boat ride to where we had excellent views of the Puffins.  

The last of us returned to the ship shortly after 21:00.  It had been a very long but a very rewarding final day on our Arctic Adventure.

Ytre Norskøya and Magdalenefjorden

The first landing of two today on the island Ytre Norskøya was beautiful. Perfectly calm weather made landing easy, and a “red carpet” aided everyone over the rocks, green with slick algae. A walk along the coast towards the lookout point took people past several old graves that, through a process of freezing and thawing of the ground, have pushed the coffins to the surface. Nesting Arctic Terns, protective of their eggs, flew down and nipped at guest’s heads while walking past sites that whalers in the mid 1600’s used to boil down blubber for oil. Clambering up the rocks, the ornithologist on board was eagerly pointing out nesting Guillemots, Little Auks, and Glaucous Gulls. Down on the water an old whaler lookout offered splendid views of the surrounding fjords.

 

This afternoons landing on Magdalena Fjord was beautiful as well, the large glacier rose up into the mountains, whose tops hid in the fog and clouds. This area was an important whaling station, in fact, the first place where whaling was carried out on a large scale. The sites at which large copper pots were set up to cook blubber are still visible on the beach. On the hill behind the cooking sites is another cemetery, with the only chain in Svalbard surrounding it! The hikers were taken on a nice walk to Gullybreen. The landing ended with the opportunity to go swimming in arctic waters which several people capitalized on including several crewmembers, all earning an arctic swimming certificate.

The day ended with the crew show, and as always, the dancing was superb.

Polar Bears and Walrus!

Under somber grey skies we set out in our Polar Cirkel boats at 08:30 to explore the terminus of Monacobreen, a glacier named after Duke Albert of Monaco.  Each glacier cruise was thirty minutes long.  It took about five minutes for the speedy Norwegian boats to  reach the minimum safety distance of 200 metres to the glacier which meant that each boat had a full twenty minutes to cruise along the ice front!  As an additional safety measure, all five boats set out in an anti-clock wise train, ensuring that you always had company close by.

 

As usual there were thousands of Black-legged Kittiwakes in the air, on the water and perched on ice floes.  Where the fresh water outflow of the Glacier was the greatest, there congregated many thousands of sea birds.  With good binoculars you could see that most of the birds were Kittiwakes with a smattering of Northern Fulmars and Glaucous Gulls mixed in.  It took a full five hours to make sure that everyone got their turn in the Polar Cirkel boats.  By 13:30 everyone was back on board Fram.
 

In the afternoon we visited a site called Jotunkjeldene in Bockfjorden.  In Norse mythology, Jotuns are a race of giants.  Jotunskjeldene translates to "giant springs".  However the springs here are barely more than a trickle of sulphur laden water. One wonders if these springs were larger at one time or if perhaps the name is an example of Nordic humour. The result of the warmer spring water is the presence of several species of plants that do not grow anywhere else in Spitsbergen.  We walked 100 metres straight up from the landing site to the spring and from there we could continue for another two to three hundred metres where we had a nice view of the surrounding area.  From that beautiful vista we could continue down the same route to the landing site.

Jotunkjeldene is a beautiful place. Large glaciers surround the landing site.  There are deep red, iron rich mountains to the east.  There were lots of wold flowers blooming including Bulbous Saxifrage, Mountain Avens, Arctic Mouse Ear and Svalbard Poppy.    We saw lots of evidence of Caribou in the form of scat and shed antlers.

 

By 20:00 everyone was back on the ship.  Even though we had already had a full and rewarding day, the day was not yet over.  We set a course for Moffen island where we would cross 80˚ N and where we hoped to find Walruses hauled out on the sandy beach.  Moffen is a protected area.  No one is allowed to land there, but with good binoculars we hoped to see those extraordinary pinnipeds.

 

On the way to Moffen Island we sighted Five Polar Bears in the same area.  One of the bears was dragging what looked like a Reindeer leg.  Food is one of the only things that will draw Polar Bears together in a loose group.  We watched the Polar Bears for about an hour and then we continued on to Moffen Island.

Kongsfjorden

 

Two landings and several excursions were set for the day in the area in and around Kongsfjorden, an area that is arguably one of the most beautiful places in Svalbard. The morning started off with a landing at 14 Julibukta, a beautiful glacier calving into the sea. Surrounding cliffs also support sea birds; species of Guillemots and Kittiwakes were rearing their young in the cliffs, as Glaucous gulls patrolled looking for a meal. We were lucky to spot over twenty fat, healthy reindeer grazing as the first groups landed on shore. A walk along the cliffs took guests past the hall of silence, a brief reprieve from the birds calling from the surrounding nesting sites.

 

 

Several guests arrived on shore to find a territorial Arctic Skua attempting, and I might add succeeding, to drive some of the intruders off its beach. Some of the more adventurous signed up for a walk up to the glacier, and were afforded beautiful views down upon the glacier from which the fjord is named.

 

The next landing after lunch was at Ny-Ålesund, not only one of the world’s northernmost communities, but also the site at which several historical attempts to reach the North Pole by air set off from. Ten people were also able to join a kayak trip paddling towards the glacier at the end of the fjord. The weather was calm, and aside from exploring several ice bergs, the trip was a great way to see the surrounding glaciers, geologic formations, and two bird colonies. The fishing trip that went out at the same time of the Ny-Ålesund landing was maybe not as successful at catching fish as they were at the seeing animals that spend their lives doing it for survival. They were able to spot puffins, seals, and the first ones on the trip to spot walrus that spent some time swimming around the boat.