Glaciers and hot springs – a typical arctic cruise day

The last day ended with lots of sun and our morning started with nice sunshine again. The time of the midnight sun is just gone but the nights are still very bright, especially under this good weather conditions. In the morning we have been focused on ice. MV FRAM found a good position in front of the amazing Monaco glacier and from here we started with a nice PolarCirkel boat cruise. For ½ hour we were cruising boat group by boat group through the icebergs in front of the huge calving front. The glacier was very active and the scenery changed constantly during the whole morning.  That was also nicely to be seen from the open decks or MV FRAM’s Observation lounge.

During lunchtime we were cruising through a spectacular landscape. It was always worth to be outside to make nice pictures. Around 16:00 FRAM reached Jotunkjeldene in Bockfjorden. Here we had our contrast program for the day – instead of glaciers we visited hot springs. Over a very rocky terrain of gneiss we climbed up the hill to see the different hot springs. The water has 20°C all year around as there is still volcanic activity in the underground. The warm water washed out a lot of carbonates. That was the reason why the whole slope was covered with a grey layer of hard carbonates. In the opposite side of our landing site we had the rock formation of the very well known “Old red”, a sediment stone colored red by iron oxide out of the Devon.

After dinner we reached Moffen. The captain brought the ship in a perfect position so that we got a good view over the walruses lying on the beach. Even it was already later in the evening the light was good enough to watch them and to take some good photos for nice remembering at home.

Our first day is paradise

With nice sunny weather we started the day in the research village Ny Ålesund and former Norwegian coal mining town. Some passengers took part in one of the guided tours and learned about the several attempts to reach or cross the North Pole from Amundsen and Nobile. The airship’s anchor mast is still standing there as a monument of these exciting times.

Some of us went out to explore the Conway Glacier and did a nice hike there. 

After lunch we all got the information and safety briefing about AECO and how we do landings, Ina and Karin gave us some useful hints! Manuel and Tessa gave each a lecture about “Svalbardian” topics and soon it was time to get proper rubber boots for eventual wet landings, and we got our personal pair during the “Boot shop”. This means we were ready to go to spend the late afternoon in the stunning Magdalenefjord with just great scenery besides the hill of whalers graves and blubber ovens. 

Some of us were even brave enough to go bathing in the icecold waves of the bay! And while three groups were hiking up the moraine of the Gully Glacier and the kayakers were paddling just in front of it, Manuel spotted a polar bear – no two (!) – a female with a cub! The excitement was big! Luckily they were on the other side of the bay, so we had a safe distance to watch the fury couple! Happily we returned back to the MV Fram, day 1 and already a polar bear – and a cub! But for some of us the day was not quite finished, as they went out with two Polar Cirkel boats and drove to Virgohamna, another place with a lot of Polar exploration history! Tired but happy we sank in our beds, dreaming about today’s impressions.

195 dreams, can they all come true?

During the last night our new guests arrived in Longyearbyen. They came with different flights from all over in the world. A spectacular sunset greeted at least those passengers who arrived with the SAS flight around midnight. The fjord was colored golden in the late evening sun. There was no wind and the sea looked like a golden mirror. Spitsbergen could not welcome us in a better way. 195 incoming guests – that means 195 different expectations, 195 different personalities, 195 different dreams … Let us see how we can fulfill at least most of it during the next week. After a very short night in a hotel passengers spent the morning in Longyearbyen. In a guided tour they got their first impression about life in a very isolated city and country. In the afternoon it was boarding time. After the check in procedure there was a bit time to learn about the ship, our home for the next week and the mandatory drill had to be done before we left the harbor. At 18:00 we set sail and our trip we were waiting for such a long time started. 

Our first destination was the Russian settlement Barentsburg in the evening. The weather was very nice. The sun was still shining. The cloud formation was spectacular - a mixture of very dark and white clouds, and the sunlight between. We got the information that it was the first sunny evening since weeks. So we were the lucky ones and we hoped that it will stay like this during the next days. Barentsburg is a Russian coalmining settlement. In several groups we explored the city. During the last years the Russians have done a lot of renovation work. In the explanations of our guides we recognized that they are always in a little competition with Longyearbyen, but it seems to be a healthy competition under good friends. The evening ended with an impressive folklore show in the culture hall. Happy and full of new impressions we went back on board for our first night on our lovely sweat home MV FRAM.

Ohhh what a beautiful voyage, it blew me away

This was the first time for Fram to do a landing in Ymerbukta. We got a panoramic view of the glacier Esmarkbreen and the most adventures ones also had a short walk on the glacier. It was interesting to have a close look at the crevasses and melting water channels. Some of us got some great pictures of the big calving. Some birds we haven’t seen before on this trip showed up; scooters, purple sandpiper and eider ducks. Manuel the bird man and his disciples were of course ecstatic.

In the observation lounge onboard it was time for the Captains farewell speech. We had some rainy days, sunny days, spotted 6 polar bears, many walrus, birds, walked on glaciers and hiked in the beautiful Spitsbergen landscape. Everybody could therefore join the crew when they sang “Oh what a beautiful voyage”. The song was written by Tore Sivertsen, a Hurtigruten employee working on one of the ships sailing on the Norwegian coast.  

There was still one more landing to enjoy though. We landed on the beach in front of the Nordenskiold glacier and walked along the beach to Brucebyen. Translated to English this means Bruce`s town. This town consists of 3 houses and one outdoor toilet. The town is named after the Scottish oceanographer and scientist William Spiers Bruce. He came to Svalbard the first time in 1898 when he joined the expedition of Prince Albert of Monaco. Later he established The Scottish Syndicate Company and hoped to find coal deposits of commercial value. Brucebyen was built in 1919 as a base for the company`s coal exploration in the area. Today one of the houses is used as duty cabin by the Governor of Svalbard. A couple of years ago the cabin burned down, but has now been rebuilt in the same style as the other huts. The cultural heritage is important on Svalbard to enable us visitors to relive the Klondike feeling that existed on Svalbard. It was still time for a final glacier cruise in front of Nordenskiold glacier before we headed back on board.

Hornsund, glacier, and the fog flying away

The day started with a landing in Gåshamna in Hornsund bay. The Arctic summer fog was still around but luckily the wind had disappeared and the sea was calm. Gåshamna is a relatively large and open bay on the southern shores of the Hornsund fjord, loaded with historical value. Here are remains of whaling, Russian and Norwegian overwintering trapping and remains from one of the first great international research expeditions in the Arctic, a Swedish Russian expedition which tried to find the exact shape of the earth! Some of us had a nice hike out on the west side of the bay, and reindeer, a polar fox and belugas were observed!

After the morning hike we tried to sail in to the bay Brepollen to watch the nice glaciers in the area. But the fog was all the way down to the water, so it was impossible to see. We could only imagine what the landscape looked like…but not for long.

After lunch we went for our second landing of the day. This was a walk up on a moraine between the glaciers in Burgerbukta. As we were landing the fog finally lifted revealing a magnificent landscape. Big blue glaciers hung in the fjord between sharp alpine mountain tops. Some went out kayaking between blue icebergs floating in the fjord. Others went to try their luck at fishing. We all enjoyed the landscape.

In the evening the Filipino crew put on a nice crew show for us, before we went to bed tired after a long day filled with expeditions.

Polar bear hike

Many were looking forward to do a longer hike today at Kapp Lee, Edgeøya. But as the landing was about to start a "yellow moving rock" was spotted from the bridge. A polar bear had decided to do our hike and we stayed safely down at the beach together with the walruses. Edgeøya and Barentsøya have a long history, the independent whalers did their hunting in this area in the 1600. The whalers that did not belong to a big company were not welcome on the other parts of Spitsbergen. The Pomors (the Russian trappers) were the first that started with land based trapping and one can find old trapping stations many places on the Island. Norwegian later learned the trapping tradition from the Pomors and there are still today active Norwegian trappers.

At Kapp Lee we had a closer look at a hut build by the crew from the vessel Elvira. As many buildings on Svalbard this has been used later for other purposes. A Norwegian trapper Bjørnsen stayed here in 1920. The Russian-Swedish expedition used this as a base for some time when they did the scientific expedition to determine the shape of the earth in 1902. They measured the angles between the surrounding peaks to collect data to prove that the earth was not completely round.

On board the vessel there was a full program for those who were still hungry for information. The Expedition team was present on the observation lounge to answer question about nature and history. The Expedition Leader was of course asked to share the experience from the camping some days ago when the staff members had a close encounter with a polar bear. After an hour of questions and answers many where still eager for more knowledge and attended the lecture either about Longyearbyen or the one about the penguins of the north. The ship was surrounded by 30 humpbacks and fin whales that put on a spectacular show for us.

This evening we saw the expedition team and the crew from a completely different angle. How would have known that they are all professional models? With a big smile they presented clothing from the shop on board.

Arctic summer weather

After a day of lovely sunny weather we again woke up to rain and fog. At 07:00 we reached 80N and Moffen Island. This small island is a haul-out place for Walrus, and we saw two big groups sleeping on the beach. This is a nature reserve and we must keep a distance of 300 meters from the island.  During the morning the wind increased and we experience wind up to 21 m/s or 41 knots. White caps were everywhere,  make landing in the polar circle boats too dangerous. The Artic summer weather is unpredictable. Our first landing, which was supposed to be in Kinnvika, was unfortunately cancelled. In Kinnvika are ten buildings from the Swedish-Finnish research expedition during the International Geophysical Year 1957-1958. This was the greatest international scientific effort the world had seen to date. We could see the buildings as we passed by.

At 14:00 we sailed passed the impressive Alkefjellet where 300 pairs of Brünnich's Guillemots (Murres) nest during the summer. We could see many on the water and some up in the cliffs. Manuel could told us about their way of living and that the whole colony is quite synchronize and all the chic’s would leave the nest on almost the same day!

We continued our travel towards Torellneset, where we hoped to have a landing and maybe have a closer look on the walrus that often rest here. The weather was still bad, and landing too dangerous. Safety first! Even the walruses had taken a hint and had disappeared from the beach.

We enjoyed the day inside Fram, enjoying lectures about glaciers, polar bears and the historical FRAM expedition in 1893-1896. I imagine those guys also experienced all kinds of arctic summer weather!

3x Polar Bear

This day started with ice cruising in front of the beautiful Monacoglacier in small boats. We enjoyed the view of the 5 kilometer glacier where big chunks of ice calf off leaving the surface bright blue. The boat driver maneuvered very elegantly between all the ice filling the bay. It was amazing to get so close to the glacier and hear the crackling from air bubbles bursting in the ice, the many kittiwakes screaming and we should even enjoy the sun warming our bodies. Then came the message; a Polar bear was spotted some kilometers away. Quickly we took our last pictures of the Monacoglacier before we rushed over to get a closer look at the Polar Bear. It was a nice healthy female bear sleeping, only lifting her head to scan the area once in a while. On the way towards the bear we passed the passengers that had chosen to do the kayak excursion today. In their small kayaks they had a fantastic experience paddling in front of Ida glacier. Back on board it was lecture time, and what could fit better than a polar bear lecture? At the same time Manuel the charming bird man did a lecture titled Quack Quack.

The sun was still shining when we reached Mushamna. On land the story about the Norwegian trapper Reidar Hovensrud was told. He was passionate trapper that built the station here in Mushamna in 1987. In 1997 the cabin was sold to the Governor of Svalbard and anybody with an interest for trapping can apply to run this cabin. So if you are up for the challenge it might be possible spend some winters here hunting artic fox, reindeer, seal and collect Eider down.  The last years however the governor hasn't lent out the cabin and apparently this is not because the lack of application. A polar bear also decided to visit the area around the old trapper station. It was swimming towards us for a while, but luckily it decided to go in another direction so we could look at it on a safe distance.

This evening the galley crew was putting on an ice and fruit carving show for us. The ice was of course picked up from the Monaccoglacier and was now shaped in the most amazing ice sculpture. The melon, carrots and apples was transformed to birds and other creatures.

Fram has been camping in Antarctica the last season with great success and many happy campers. Therefore this is something we would like to start offering here on Svalbard as well. Some of the members of the Expedition Team gladly volunteered to do a test trip and spend the night on Reinsdyrflya. We found a very nice camping area and enjoyed an evening hike. As we have seen earlier today there are many polar bears on Svalbard and it`s always needed to have someone awake to keep a look out for polar bears. As those who were not designated to do the polar bear watch was getting ready for a good night of sleep, polar bear number 3 showed up.  It was a young curious bear who wanted to have a closer look at the camp site. To avoid the bear coming all the way over to the camp we had to fire four flares with the signal pistol to scare him off. The bear slowly moved away from the camp and we packed up our gear and got back on board.

Arctic research station, whaler’s graveyard and vegetarian polar bear

During breakfast we sailed into Kongsfjorden heading for Ny Ålesund. The sun was still hiding behind low clouds, and it was raining. Ny-Ålesund is one of the world’s northermost year-round communities. Coal mining was the original reason for settlement here, but mining was put to an end after a serious accident in 1962, leaving behind numerous cultural remains of technical and industrial importance.  Ny-Ålesund has also been the starting point of several historical attempts to reach the North Pole. Names like Amundsen, Ellsworth and Nobile are strongly linked to Ny-Ålesund. The place has been a centre for tourist operations, with several hotels located in town. Today, 20 000 tourists travelling by cruise ship visit Ny-Ålesund on a yearly basis. Since 1964, Ny-Ålesund has also been a centre for international Arctic research and environmental monitoring. A number of countries run their own national research stations here, and research activity is high in the summer. We enjoyed a guided walk around the settlement, and some also walked out to the air ship mooring mast.

After our visit in Ny Ålesund we headed north towards Magdalene fjord where we had our first landing with the polar cirkle boats. This fjord was used by English whalers over 400 year ago. We could still see the remains of the blubber oves on the beach. Gravneset where we had the landing, is also a big cemetery and over 300 whalers found their last resting place here. Some of us had a longer hike towards the Gully glacier, and where lucky to observe both the barnacle geese, artic skuas and even a bearded seal. Some others tried out and Artic kayak experience, gliding silently between blue icebergs that had calved off the glacier.  Some brave people got really close to the elements and had a swim in the Arctic Ocean, even though the temperature of the water was only 2 degrees Celsius!

Some of the passengers also had chosen to join in for an extra trip to Virgohamna, and left Magdalenefjord with the Polar Cirkle boats. In Virgohamna they had a historical walk and could see the remains of the many expedition towards the North Pole who started from this place, especially Andrès’ attempt to reach the north pole.

As a super end of an exciting day we spotted a polar bear on one of the islands in the Sørgattet strait! He was not stressed or afraid at all and the ship could come quite close so we all could have a nice view of him. He lifted his head, and smelled into the air, maybe longing for the nice dinner we had onboard? After a while he did lie down and settled with a kelp salad instead. What a great polar bear encounter!

Welcome to Svalbard. We are from Russia

Longyearbyen wasn’t much like an Arctic desert today. Rain was pouring down when our new passengers entered the ship. The adventure started with a guided bus trip around Longyearbyen. The community here on 78 degrees north has only 2000 inhabitants, but it was a lively scene this rainy Thursday. Students at the university are starting a new semester these days, new roads are being built, a research station is building new satellite antennae, miners that are off duty are enjoying their free time, and kids that has been on the mainland for summer holiday are skating in the city centre.

Onboard the ship everybody was quickly checked in, got the blue expedition jacket, participated in the mandatory emergency drill and Fram was ready to set sail for the Russian settlement Barentsburg. Dinner was served on the 2 hour sail while Captain Rune Andreassen welcomed everybody onboard. For a week we will all be curious explorers under his command. On the pier in Barentsburg local guides where waiting for us to give us a tour around their town and sharing stories from their daily life. It's funny how you just 2 hours from the multicultural Longyearbyen you can be in Russia. Without presenting your passport at any border suddenly the population speaks Russian. Both Longyearbyen and Barentsburg are under Norwegian sovereignty where Norwegian laws apply.

Our guide explains that the locals never use cash in Barentsburg. They have their own Barentsburg card which they use for all purchases here. This would be a great souvenir to bring back home and one of us asks if it is possible to get this card. With a smile on his face the guide answers that the only way to get this card is to sign a 2 years contract with the mining company running this town. After completed a contract they do get 2 months holiday and flights to Russia for free. According to our guide this is a good place to be and many of the inhabitants has already been here for 10 years. Many of the building here have been renovated and look very impressive. One of this is the hotel where we enjoy some time in the hotel bar, where we are also offered localy brewed beer.

For the grand finale we are invited to a folklore show in the community house. The dancing and singing is very impressive and going down the many stairs back to the ship we are all humming on the song “Welcome to Svalbard. We are from Russia”.

Veni, vidi, vici

We came we saw we conquered, and no weather whatsoever could stop us! Not heavy snowfall at Alkhornet nor never-ending rain at Brucebyen. Regarding the weather this season is indeed a very special one. One and a half day of blue sky and sunshine in the past four weeks. The rest? Guess...

It started snowing early in the morning when we were heading towards Isfjorden. By the time the first polar circle boat reached the beach the plain below Alkhornet started to change from green to white. We took our positions that the passengers had a safe area to walk and explore. Some reindeer strolled through the area. Their insulation is as good that the snow on their backs does not melt. The richer season for them seems to come to its end. The snow layer on the green will soon increase in thickness.

During lunchtime we had some more lectures on board on the way to Billefjorden. In the far end of this fjord, opposite of the abandoned Russian mining village Pyramiden, there is a group of four buildings and some tens of meters of a small railway. They are the remains of a settlement that was put up in 1919 by the Scotsman William Bruce. He had initiated the Scottish Spitsbergen Syndicate Ltd. to do exploration for coal mining.

Bruce was an oceanographer and polar explorer. He had become famous for his participation in the first two of the four expeditions of Albert I of Monaco in 1898 and 1899, for several further expeditions to Svalbard, but also for leading the Scottish Antarctic Expedition with the ship "Scotia". His coal mining activities were not as successful and when he returned to Brucebyen in 1920 he got ill and died short time after returning home. Another sad story from Svalbard's history, today framed by a rainy afternoon.