Stanley the Capital!

After two marvellous days out on “the camp” (the Falkland Islanders’ name for the countryside) we arrived at the capital of this amazing place- Stanley- early this morning. After clearing Her Majesty’s Customs we were allowed to leave the ship and start our various activities for the day. But before we get to that, just a personal word from your humble blogger. I have been coming to the Falklands on the Fram for the past 8 years and it is for me a big highlight to the trip. The people, the history, wildlife, landscapes, and architecture are all unique. If you have ever read about or just thought about this place, I would urge you to consider visiting. The Falklands is at a crossroads with tourism on the increase and the real potential in the future for for an oil industry. This is the time to see this vibrant place as it reaches its full potential. Remember, the Fram makes several visits here every year!

So, what did we do today? Some stayed in Stanley and just enjoyed the place. Although it was Sunday, many shops and the pubs (!) were open. Others went on one of several interesting and enjoyable excursions offered, either in Stanley (history), or outside to see the local wildlife and scenery. The weather was blustery and cold in the morning but the sun came out in the afternoon and the wind went uncharacteristically quiet. It being the day before Remembrance Day, we were lucky to witness an important ceremony to remember all the soldiers who have died since WWI, including of course those who lost their lives in the Falkland Islands conflict in the early 1980s. The brass band that lead the procession down the main street flew in from the UK for the occasion, which was all broadcast live on the local radio.

Here are a few images of the Capital of the Falklands to give you a small feel for the place.

As we left Stanley, we looked back at the islands we have come to love over the past three days. And we also look forward to our next destination- South Georgia! We will be at sea for the next two days, which will give us ample time for anticipation and dreaming of what is to come!

Oh happy daaaaaaay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In the early morning we reached WestPoint Island. Our first view out of the window showed us that this would not be an easy landing. The wind was blowing and we had a huge swell. But we did not give up; we wanted to see the Black-browed Albatrosses and the Rockhopper Penguins. Our first try has not been successful but the 1. Officer Benny turned the ship a bit in another position – and we could go. Another dream came true.

Black-browed Albatross

First we walked over the island to see the albatross and penguin colony. Once we have been there the weather changed; the sun came out and we got best possibilities to enjoy our morning next to the wildlife. Our pictures will give you the best impressions what we could see. It was so unbelievable that some of us had even tears in the eyes. There are not so many places on earth where you can come so near to wild animals. Here we had the feeling to be even part of the wilderness.

Next to the colony

Black-browed Albatross portrait

Rockhopper Penguin portrait

On our way back we have been invited to the farmhouse where Kiki offered us her fabulous cookies and English tea. It has been a real English teatime, perhaps a bit early in the day, but more than wonderful. Next to the house we could watch a lot of birds too. It was nice to sit in the garden and observe Turkey vultures, Siskins, Thrushes and of course Caracaras and Geese.

Black-chinned Siskin; FriedaPhoto

Turkey Vulture; FriedaPhoto

Long-tailed Meadowlark; FriedaPhoto

After lunch and a short rest on board we started our second landing of the day in Sounders. David Pole - Evans, the owner of the island welcomed us at the beach. David is one of our keen blog followers and reads the FRAM blog every day. David – thanks for giving us the possibility for such a great experience!

Thanks to David; Photo: Walter Torreon

The spectacular beach was full of breeding Gentoos, we saw our first King penguins and a huge colony of Rockhopper Penguins and King Cormorants.   Of course we saw Upland Geese and Kelp geese, some Caracaras, and even more, we cannot speak about all we have seen.

Remains from the whaling and sealing time in Saunders
FriedaPhoto

King penguin; FriedaPhoto

Commerson's Dolphins; FriedaPhoto

Macaroni Penguin; we saw a couple in the Rockhopper colony
FriedaPhoto

Look at the pictures and you will understand our enthusiasm. 

Our destination is reached (a bird day)

After after four beautiful days at sea off the east coast of Patagonia, we see land for the first time. It’s the chain of islands in the far northwest corner of the Falkland Islands called “The Jasons”. They are two main, uninhabited islands in the group and they are both havens for Falklands wildlife, particularly seabirds such as albatrosses and penguins. Just before reaching the Jasons, we were reminded of how fickle the weather is in these parts. Suddenly from sunny weather we sailed into a maelstrom of wind and sleet with wind speeds reaching hurricane force! The Fram healed a little to one side against the wind but stood up to these huge forces like the champion ship we know she is.

So, our destination within the Falklands today was Carcass Island. Carcass is rat-free and that means the island birdlife thrives there. The island is owned by the Lorraine and Rob McGill family who run a guesthouse on the island and also a small farm. 

In the farmhouse itself, we were treated to biscuits, cakes and tea and coffee- a real British afternoon tea! We explored the area around the farmhouse and the nearby beach. Some hiked over to Leopard Bay to experience a bit more of the island and to see the penguins there. In between, we had good looks at many of the bird species of the island, including the endemic Cobb’s Wren.

Cobb's Wren

Crested Duck

Striated Caracara

South American Snipe

It is also important to step back from the small details and “smell the roses”- in other words look around at the scenery of the island. When you do that you get the impression of soft, rolling hills dotted with large patches of bright yellow gorse- a beautiful sight! 

At the end of the day, those hills were covered in a think blanket of snow! Can you believe it, we had snow several times today and it’s spring in the Falklands! Even the McGills were amazed!

Hei Bloggen!

I'm the Trainee for this trip, my name is Niri Tveita and I'm from Norway.

I've been asked to write the blog for today, and another one at the end of this trip.

When I got an email from the expedition team, telling me that I've got a trainee spot on the MV Fram I was extremely happy. Sailing on a boat in the south sea! Awesome!

I was very excited. I started packing 2 weeks before, and terrorized Karin, one of our Expedition Leaders, with emails about what to bring. Now I've been here for 5 days and the strongest feeling is how lucky I am to be here.

There has only been sea days, but I'm enjoying it a lot. I can't wait to arrive at the Falklands and from there on! I feel very welcome be on the expedition team and I like working with them. 

Today we tested boot sizes, a lot of boots were flying around on deck 2 and 3 but I think everyone had a god time. The boots we need when out on snow, mud and penguin droppings..! 

The weather today has been very nice, just like the last days. But, we are soon entering colder waters and the the air temperature will also fall. We are getting more and more south as you read this! 

Northern Giant Petrel

Sea days are wonderful!

It is our second sea day today and we have to say, it is wonderful to start a longer expedition cruise with several days on board. We have been very tired when we arrived on board FRAM on Sunday as we had all a long flight behind us. Everybody on board welcomed us in a more than friendly way, but we have been too exhausted to enjoy it really. So it was no wonder that everybody enjoyed the first sea day yesterday. We slept longer and we used the day to getting to know the ship, the crew and the expedition team. But today we feel home already – and that is wonderful.

Atlantic Petrel, photo : John Chardine

Atlantic Petrel, photo: John Chardine

Waiting for a good shot, FriedaPhoto

 When there is an announcement like “meet the Ornithologists on deck 7” we knew directly where we have to go and whom we will meet, whom we could ask best in our language.  We know our lecture halls, we know the right person to ask if we have little problems. We know the dining room and the lounges, the y are our room now. And we met the first passengers travelling with us for a small talk or even first discussions. All together it means, we arrived now on board really, we feel home now, we took over now” OUR ship FRAM”.

Stowaway 1 (Cinnamon Warbling-Finch) FriedaPhoto

Stowaway 2 and 3 (Spot-winged-Pigeon) Photo: John Chardine

During the day the lecture staff offered lots of lectures to prepare us in the best way for our landings on the Falkland Islands. We were out for bird watching, and many of us shot already more pictures then they expected at the first days.  How wonderful that we have the digital photography and we have not to think about missing film at the end of our cruise.

The day passed by quickly. We had so much to do. Listening, looking and of course eating, enjoying the good food the Chef and his crew had prepared for us.

Expectations

The start of a cruise is a very special time as we muse about what awaits us. This cruise is extra-special because it is the first of Fram’s season in Antarctica. Yesterday we sailed out of the port of Buenos Aires and into the muddy “Rio” (de la Plata). The estuary of the river is so big many assumed we had sailed into a sea or even ocean, but we hadn’t. Our first day on-board was very busy with many preparatory activities such as boarding, settling into our cabins, a mandatory safety drill, Captain’s reception, and the fitting of our expedition jackets. 

It took us all night to put the river behind us and early this morning we found ourselves in the Atlantic Ocean, the rising sun lighting the clouds before the golden orb broke the horizon. As we did so, we were greeted by a variety of seabirds scouring the ocean for food. It was at that time that our dreams of seeing albatrosses for the first time were fulfilled for many of us. Black-browed and a few Yellow-nosed Albatrosses impressed us with their acrobatics as did several other petrel and shearwater species. As Robert Cushman Murphy, the famous American seabird biologist said “we have joined a higher cult of man, for we have seen the albatross!” 

During the day the expedition staff present several excellent and well attended lectures on a variety of topics in science and history. The seabird talk was interrupted in a good way when we past a fishing vessel that was being escorted by 100s of albatrosses and petrels. The vessel was obviously releasing fish waste, which the seabirds were gladly gobbling-up. This can be a risky business for the seabirds because of the risk of entanglement in fishing gear. 

As we are traveling to the Falkland Islands, and then on to South Georgia and Antarctica, our dreams naturally also turn to penguins. Again we were not disappointed today as we saw many Magellanic Penguins, both young and older, swimming and diving in the ocean around us. They were probably from the large colony at Punta Tombo on the mainland of Argentina to our west. Both the albatrosses and penguins we saw today, though exciting, were mere hors d’ouvres to our Antarctic dreams!

There is so much to look forward to!

Significant moments (II)

Who has not turned a globe in his hands, thinking about continents to see, places to visit, distances to travel?

One of the striking features of a globe are the oceans, separating the places we live in.

We crossed it now, went to the other end of the world, not in an aircraft, but all the way at a speed you could easily do with a bicycle as well. By fair means, as they say.

That is a difference, a huge one. Lets never forget that.

So, now we are berthed in Buenos Aires, sunshine all over the place, Land!

The last days went in a hurry, believe it or not, there was things to organize, to pack, to attend (like the Crew Show), until - after a ride over a mercury-like sea - we pulled into Buenos Aires, where there are trees, buildings, people, machines. A totally different world, in one word.

And now: the tables are empty, the dance floor's deserted. The crossing is over.

Thanks to everybody who made it worthwhile! Have a safe trip home and keep the memories as long as you can. The pictures may help...