GRYTVIKEN CHRISTMAS EVE

At breakfast time we were in calmer waters as we approached the east side of South Georgia Island. The Island was not visible due to fog and light snow conditions. However by mid-day when we anchored in the King Edward Cove the weather cleared and we could see abandoned whaling station at Grytviken and the white museum building.

Our landing point was close to the Grytviken cemetery. The most noted person buried there is the explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton. Others buried there were sealers and whalers,

including the father of one of our Norwegian passengers. The most recent internment is an Argentine sailor from the 1982 conflict.

   

Many of us attended a service at the Whalers church. This service was organized by Norwegian organization: OYAs-Venner -the Friends of the Island, South Georgia. The church building was pre-fabricated in Norway at the request of Carl Anton Larsen who founded the whaling station at Grytviken. Reassembled in Grytviken, the church was dedicated on Christmas day 1913. Today an additional service was held, a wedding, Olav Orheim and Grethe Sofie Bratlie exchanged vows, and celebrated with a reception once we returned to the FRAM. 

 

Onboard the FRAM we all gathered in the Observation lounge, where out Captain Arild Harvik held non-denominational reading of the true meaning of Christmas. We are 360 people onboard from 20 nationalities and we managed to sing Christmas carols simultaneously in 3 languages English, German and Norwegian.

Shortly afterward we gathered in our restaurant for a never ending buffet of holiday dinner delights. We all ate until we could hold no more. The day closed with an appearance from Santa Claus in the observation lounge.

During the night the wind and sea conditions increased. At breakfast time Beaufort force 7 conditions, a near gale, with winds up to 15 meters/second or about 33 miles/hour. The wind and waves were coming from a southwest direction. The wind and wave direction did not change but by 1500 or 3PM the winds had increased a bit and we moved up a notch in the Beaufort scale. Overall the FRAM is rolling smoothly and slowly, though the wave heights are about 5 meters or 17 feet. Admiral Francis Beaufort, the hydrographer for the British Navy, systematized the descriptive terms that sailors used and the sea condition that he had observed. In 1838 the Admiralty adopted his zero to 12, that is 13, increasing levels of classification, combining wind and sea conditions. Developed long before the twirling anemometers that we see today measuring wind speed, his Beaufort scale is still in common use on ships crossing the world’s oceans. Admiral Beaufort made another, lesser known, contribution to science, in that he is the person who suggested Charles Darwin as the young gentleman and naturalist who was selected to accompany Captain Robert Fitzroy on the circumnavigation of the Beagle.

Throughout the day the FRAM has been accompanied by seabirds. Today we added Grey-headed Albatrosses and Snow Petrels to the species list of birds skimming beside the FRAM.

Today was a critical day in terms of permission to go ashore. Everyone onboard who intends to go ashore has to complete two forms. First is the required reading and signature of the bio-security notice for all those going ashore on South Georgia. Second is required attendance at the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) formal briefing on the guidelines and proper behavior in Antarctica.

  

Our photographer has had a busy day. With Christmas approaching, the entire ships crew was photographed for their Season’s Greetings to all and the ship-board operational department members gathered for more personalized photographs.

    

TAILWINDS TOWARD SOUTH GEORGIA

The FRAM is still heading southeasterly and our ride is quite comfortable as we have the winds from astern. Plus the sea surface conditions are moderate and mellow as the waves are not too big and are also approaching the FRAM from the rear. Wandering Albatross, Antarctic Skuas and Wilsons Storm Petrel have accompanied us throughout the day.

As today is Sunday a church service was held onboard. The service was dedicated to the memory of the Norwegian whalers who died at sea. Gone but not forgotten. After the indoor service many of us went on deck for second service which involved lowering a wreath to the sea in memory of the whalers who got a wet grave. The ceremony concluded with the singing of the hymn “Deilig er Jorden” or “Wonderful is the Earth”.

Lectures continued today and we learned about Antarctic seals and biodiversity. As budding historians we listened to talks on the founding of Grytviken by C.A. Larsen over a hundred years ago and recent improvements in the methods for preserving polar buildings. This last site location is on our list of possible sites to visit during our stay at the island of South Georgia. We also learned the geologic history of the Island and the biologic and human history of the Island was presented by Martin Collins, the Chief Executive and Director of Fisheries and the Reverend Richard Hines of the Anglican Church. We are pleased to have them onboard to hear their first-hand knowledge of South Georgia and the biologic and restoration programs that are presently underway.

This evening we have our classic FRAM fashion show and it remains to be seen if these last two eminent gentlemen will join us in this fun-filled event.

        

Sun, Solstice, and the Red Carpet

Here in the southern hemisphere, today was the summer solstice. The sun makes its southern-most track and as a result today has the longer period of sunlight, longer than any other day in the year. And today was exceptional for several reasons. First today was clear and sunny throughout our visit to Stanley, this is not always the case as often the local weather is cloudy and rainy. We even observed folks soaking up the sun, in the Church yard. Secondly all our excursions: bird watching, nature walks, historical tours, scenic over-flights and lastly the penguin and cookies trip were fully enjoyed by our sometimes sun and wind burned fellow travelers. While we enjoyed the bright sun we did have to lean a bit into the gale force winds that swept the waterfront.

On a third more reflective note, many of us gathered at the Cathedral for a short service to mark the start of the centenary celebration of the Whalers Church in Grytviken on South Georgia Island. The forth exceptional event today was a red carpet reception with the Honorable Nigel Haywood the Governor of the Falkland Islands, South Georgia Island and the South Sandwich Islands. Kjell Tokstad representing the Norwegian organization Øyas Venner the “Friends of the Island- South Georgia” presented honorary memberships to the Governor, and his Chief Executive Martin Collins and Richard Hines the Vicar in Stanley. There followed a lovely reception with mulled claret, tasty treats, and excellent company.

At 5pm or 1700 we left the dock and motored to out of the harbor into the open sea. Behind us as a backdrop we had crystal clear views of Stanley and the surrounding ridges. On this longest day of the year, the sunlight faded as the orange disc of the sun dropped below the horizon. We are headed onward and forward to South Georgia Island and Christmas.

ONWARD TO STANLEY

The FRAM continued on course toward Stanley. We motored along under overcast skies and in gentle to moderate sea conditions. Throughout the day both wandering and black-browed albatrosses accompanied cape and giant petrels in gliding alongside the FRAM and following in our behind the ship, occasionally dipping down for the tasty treats churned up in our wake.

Inside the FRAM our tri-lingual language program was underway. Lectures in English, German and Norwegian provided an introduction to the biology and environmental conditions that are found surrounding and on the sub-Antarctic islands.

Today was also the day we were fitted for the insulated rubber boots that we will wear when we go ashore by Polarcirkel boats. But tomorrow in Stanley the FRAM is dockside and our hiking boots that we brought from home are the order of the day.

FRAM means forward!

Today was a very forward day. 231 tired travelers from 15 nations collected themselves on the FRAM and at 6:09PM today, or 1809 in ship-board time notation, we slipped sideways away from the dock in Ushuaia, Argentina and our trip was underway. The weather today in Ushuaia was “pretty good” that is only a breeze when we walked the dock, but not the gale force winds we sometimes lean into when we walk along the water front. The skies were overcast most of the day but cleared and it was sunny while we attended our safety briefing and demonstration. Once the docklines were cast off and with Ushuaia retreating in the background, we were on our way heading eastward in the Beagle Channel. Our next stop and our first port of call will be Stanley in the Falkland/Malvinas Islands. Beagle Channel was first mapped and the depths were sounded by the British survey ship BEAGLE. That ships second voyage to this area is better known, as in was on that globe circling- circumnavigation- that the ships complement included the young naturalist Charles Darwin. The British Museum in London houses the plant and animal specimens plus the fossil samples that Charles Darwin collected on his land excursions in southern South America-the region known as Patagonia.

 

Tonight the Captain and his staff welcomed us onboard the FRAM. Later we exited the eastern end of Beagle Channel and assumed a northeast-ward course toward Stanley. Tomorrow is a day at sea with lectures introducing us to the history, the sea life and the geology of the waters we will sail across and the islands we will visit.

In closing, this is a very special trip, as history is with us –first-hand -- not from books or via Hollywood movies. We have onboard many Norwegians who worked at the whaling stations on South Georgia Island or on whaling ships that plied these waters. These people are members of the “Friends of the Island -South Georgia” and their prime motivation for this trip is to attend Christmas services at the Whalers church in Grytviken. This approaching Christmas will be the 100^th anniversary of the establishment of the Whalers church on South Georgia Island. We will be there. All of us onboard are looking forward to both lectures and informal conversations with those folks who over 50 years ago lived and worked in this region.    

A whale of a day

The early risers needed no special announcement – nor were awoken by Friederike’s excited calls, summoning everybody to the outer decks. Those that were asleep and were in fact woken up by her, surely did not mind too much, as the spectacle around the ship was well worth the effort of getting out of bed and quickly putting some warm clothes on: we were surrounded by a large group of humpback whales, and occasionally, a few fin whales could be seen darting their way in the distance.

The Captain interrupted our journey for about an hour, and everybody had the opportunity to look at these magnificent creatures at length, as they also used the occasion to look at us: they were quite curious and spent a fair amount of time slowly cruising alongside the ship, and that provided us all with plenty of time to look at them and not just take pictures (which of course we did), but also to try to look into their watery world; and perhaps, to wonder on how different from us these fellow mammals are…

When we continued our journey, it seemed as if our distant marine cousins were not quite yet prepared to bid us farewell, as we had the chance to see them following the ship for a long while. It was spectacular to see the fin whales cruising past the ship (yes, they are quicker than our vessel), and to watch them porpoise out of the water in their frantic race. It definitely was a whale of a day!

Deception Island

Our day started with bright sunshine just at the entrance of the big caldera of Deception Island, the famous Neptune’s bellows. Then we began with our first landing at the former whaling station which we could visit in all quietness and spending lots of time surveying the whole area – whaling installation, base buildings, tanks and airplane hangar and last but not least, climbing to Ronald hill for the view or walking to the end of the beach close to Neptune’s windows to socialize with a weddell seal resting on the snow. It was also swimming time for some guests.

After lunch and not far away from our early landing, we moved to Telephone bay, were we attempted our second landing. Kayakers, cruisers and climbers went to do their own business, the first ones to a small bay teeming with seals, the second on a geological tour in and outside the caldera, and the last ones to the 170 m high hill which provided a magnificent view of the inner caldera. Even our safety officer went ashore and felt a little bit lost – missing the Fram – as you can see on the picture, while other passengers were very proud to have managed to come that fast to the summit, expressing all their joy in risky actions like raising the arms, while others had to grab the rocks so as not to be not blown away by the strong winds.

This was our farewell day from Antarctica and each one of us used the opportunity to spend some silent moments to be grateful for the wonderful experience we were granted to live in these latitudes. The best way to finish the day and the continental journey was by attending the creative and skillful crew show, where the hidden talents of some of our more permanent friends on board came to surface for the delight of all of us. 

   

Lemaire Channel and Vernadsky Station

In true explorer fashion, this morning we did not know if we were going to be able to traverse the scenic Lemaire channel, as it seemed to be clogged with ice. Early in the morning, peacefully cruising in a beautiful haze, we inched our way into the channel and crossed it by avoiding the biggest ice chunks and breaking the new sea ice, which is something very exciting indeed – and just what you imagine a journey to Antarctica should be.

After sailing the whole length of the channel, we continued further south to the Argentine islands, which was also a very exciting journey as the whole sea was covered with fresh sea ice which Fram slowly tore apart to advance. In these islands, we visited the Ukranian research station Vernadsky, where the very friendly crew welcomed us and showed us around their working and everyday life quarters.

During our stay in Vernadsky, the weather changed dramatically, from darkly overcast to incredibly sunny, so we enjoyed the fabulous landscape of the mountainous Antarctic Peninsula stretching southwards as far as the eye could see; and also the beautiful icebergs slowly parading past it.

Our northbound journey across the Lemaire channel – which almost seemed a different place from this morning’s!- and through the Gerlache Strait and Wilhelmina Bay was simply spectacular: the sunny weather continued and the whole sea was covered with bits and pieces of ice of all shapes and sizes…

Neko Harbour and Paradise Bay

 Some of our passengers started the landing WAY ahead of time: they actually slept at today’s landing site, at Neko Harbour! We had reached Ankvord Bay the night before and set up a camp on the Antarctic mainland, facing the imposing ice walls of the glaciers. The night was so bright, and our passengers so excited, that we only slept a little bit. Early in the morning, before returning to Fram and its creature comforts, we hiked to a lookout point to take in the magnificent view over both the glacier and the bay.

On our way back, we took the quickest and most enjoyable way back: sliding down the slope!

Everybody had a great time at Neko Harbour: most passengers walked up the hill to the lookout point and enjoyed both the magnificent vistas, as well as the funny ride downhill. Some other passengers went cruising in the bay, discovering what the iceberg maze had to offer. Yet a further group went kayaking, also exploring and enjoying the wonderful scenery and icescape around us.

In the afternoon, we visited Base Brown, an Argentine station located in the aptly called Paradise Bay – and what a paradisiacal view we enjoyed from the hilltop behind the station… And yes, we had a second chance to slide downhill, which we all enjoyed. All in all, it was a fabulous day in Antarctica!

Cuverville Island and Port Lockroy

What a day, it started with a landing at beautiful Cuverville Island at the northern entrance of the Errera Channel. Some of our passengers went for a cruising, others kayaking and the majority went on a walk on the island, after having crossed a “cemetery of icebergs” on the way to the beach.  There we were greeted by hundreds and thousands of gentoo penguins, like the one we see in the picture.

 Some of us had the chance to see the fierce and evil looking leopard seal which did not mind the spectators and captured at least 4 penguins for breakfast, or was it lunch? Skuas were also waiting for penguins that were not paying attention to rob their eggs, which they did a couple of times. With the exception of these small devilish events, we could agree that penguin life is an enjoyable experience.

After the quiet and successful landing at Cuverville, we continued our journey to Port Lockroy at Goudier Island after traversing the Neumayer Channel. We were not quite sure if we were going to be able to land there since other vessels had failed because of the ice conditions. But the wind was blowing in the proper direction and we managed to put our feet on base A.

At present we are heading to Neko Harbour were we plan to spend the night…..

The story continues tomorrow.       Have nice dreams.  

King George Island and the South Shetland

Already in the early morning hours, we were arriving at the South Shetland where we were received with the traditional hospitality of the Polish staff members of Arctowsky Station. Their native pets, the chinstrap and Adelie penguins and skuas were all at place and greeted us friendly and with some noise.

 This was our closest encounter so far with Antarctica, as we had the possibility for the first time to experience the real touch with this environment, since until yesterday we have had a process of gradual approach, just as it was near Gibbs Islands, were we almost touched land but had to restrain of going ashore as a result of weather and time constrains. Nevertheless, we were partly familiar with what was coming towards us and we were more than happy and excited when we stepped on land. Finally, we have arrived and reached the first station of our truly Antarctic adventure.

While talking with the Polish scientists and sharing their experiences during the long winter months, we got a taste of what must have been to stay a whole year round in this place, at Admiralty bay. No wonder that they recently made the effort to cross all the Bransfield strait in a zodiac to listen to a concert of the heavy metal group “Metallica” in the Argentine Base Jubany. There are not that many opportunities in Antarctica to attend a concert or a theater show.

Against all odds and the low air temperature, we had tough guests on board who challenged the cold water and were blessed with an Antarctic baptism in these pristine waters. From now on, the swimming season has being inaugurated and the rest of the passengers are invited to join in every next landing, if they wish to do so.

Our youngest guest Marcus posed for us in the gift and souvenir shop of the Polish base, very proud of standing next to the base commander.