North Bound On The Drake, Day Two

Today’s weather was almost a carbon copy of yesterday’s.  We had winds in the neighbourhood of 25 - 30 knots for most of the day.  This produced sea states that Fram very elegantly absorbed as we plied our way towards Cape Horn.

The gym on Fram.

We used the sea day to continue with the lecture program.  Once again there was lots of time to relax, go to the gym or the sauna.

In the early evening at 17:00 we met in the Observation Lounge for a farewell cocktail and the Captain delivered a farewell speech.  The crew, officers and Expedition Team concluded the farewell meeting by singing a song that was especially written for MS Fram.

Immediately following the farewell presentation there was a charity auction to raise funds for the South Georgia Heritage Trust.  There were three items up for auction: a print of Wandering Albatross on Prion Island in South Georgia, the ship’s flag with the Hurtigruten logo that was flying throughout our voyage and a chart of our entire voyage with our route and all landing sights and dates plotted on the chart.  All told, we raised approximately $1000 USD for the South Georgia Heritage Trust.

Albatross monument and light house at Cape horn.

Right after the auction we were able to go outside to see the famous Cape Horn.  We were able to pass very closely having received permission from the Chilean coastal authorities.

Northbound On The Drake

After a fantastic expedition exploring the Antarctic Peninsula we are now headed north on our route across Drake Passage back to Ushuaia. As per usual the north bound part of our journey is a time to reflect on all of the things we have seen and done. There is plenty of time to leisurely pack our warm winter clothing, to review photos, to relax in the sauna, perhaps go to the gym or just nap and while away the hours enjoying the view of the open ocean. The crossing is for now, very comfortable. There is enough wind and waves to be a constant reminder that we are on a ship at sea but not enough to prevent relaxing on board. There have also been other activities taking place throughout the day the mainstay of which is our lecture program delivered in three different languages - English, German and French (on this cruise). The lecture rooms seem perfectly engineered as a relaxation therapy room as more than one person lapsed into a somnambulatory state. We finished our day on the Drake with a question and answer session with the entire Expedition Team in the Observation Lounge. The session lasted for nearly an hour with questions ranging from Antarctic Treaty policies to sustainable tourism in Antarctica.

Neko Harbour and Port Lockroy

Neko Harbor Glacier

We started our landing operations at Neko Harbour at 09:00.  There was a lot going on this morning with kayaking, Polar Cirkel boat cruising and our first and only continent landing.

We landed on a nice sandy beach.  Right beside the landing site were three Weddell Seals.  We were able to walk up to a nice overview of the Gentoo colony.  Many people opted to walk on top of a snow-covered ice field where they had a great view of Fram far below, a striking glacier face and beautiful Neko Harbour.  

Weddell Seal Neko Harbor

The conditions were great for bum-sliding in the snow.  Peals of laughter and shouts of glee could periodically be heard over the calling penguins as people slid on their backsides down a large snow-covered hill.

Those that went cruising had an extremely exciting trip.  They saw Humpback and Minke Whales and several Weddell Seals.  There were also lots of icebergs to cruise by and thick brash ice to cruise through. 

At Port Lockroy

In the afternoon we made our final stop in Antarctica at Port Lockroy.  Port Lockroy has a museum and gift shop that is operated by the British Antarctic Heritage Trust.  It also has a large colony of Gentoo Penguins.  It was easy to observe penguins with chicks and many penguins still with eggs.

Gentoo Penguin feet!

Just about everyone visited the museum and gift shop.  The proceeds from the gift shop support the museum and other British antarctic Heritage Trust concerns in Antarctica.

Snowy Sheathbills, Port Lockroy

Half Moon Island and Admiralty Bay

We landed on a cobblestone beach on Halfmoon Island at 08:00.  The main attraction at this site is a large colony of Chinstrap Penguins.  There were also two Southern Elephant Seals, a couple of Antarctic Fur Seals and one lonely Macaroni Penguin.

It was completely overcast at the start of the landing but by 10:30 the sun was shining and it was mostly blue skies.  It turned into an absolute stellar day.  You didn’t want to forget to apply your sunblock on a day like today.

The footing was a little slippery on ice and frozen snow but by mid-morning the sun had done it’s work and had softened the icy snow turning it into much a easier walking surface.

One group of people elected to go on a lengthy snow-shoeing excursion while another group of eager paddlers went on a kayak trip that circumnavigated the island.

By 11:30 everyone was back on the ship and we set sail for King George Island.

Later in the afternoon we landed in Admiralty Bay where we were able to visit both the Chilean and Russian bases.  One of the highlights of these two bases is the beautiful little Russian Orthodox church.  It was built in Russia and then shipped and finally assembled at the Russian base.  It first opened  in February 15, 2004.  

The weather was mild with overcast skies, ideal for strolling around the two bases.  It was interesting to see the visual differences between the Chile and Russian Bases.  Chile looked rather prosperous while in marked contrast, the Russian base looked more utilitarian and like it could use a coat of paint.

“LARGE” is the word for the day!



Humpback Whales bubble net feeding.



En route to Cuverville Island we went ship cruising in Wilhelmina Bay in the hopes of spotting some whales. Since the early days of whaling in Antarctica, Wilhelmina has been known to be a rich feeding ground that attracts whales in the Austral summer. Deep in the bay we encountered three pairs of humpback Whales. Four of the whales were very obviously feeding. We were able to observe the whales blowing perfect circles of bubbles and then they would surface in the centre of the ring, mouths agape. It was really amazing to watch the bubble-net feeding as time after time, one pair in particular, blew a perfect circle of bubbles to entrap their prey. We assumed they were feeding on krill as we could observe large amounts of krill on the ship’s sonar and many sea birds feeding on krill alongside the whales. Later in the morning we landed at Cuverville Island, the site of the largest Gentoo Colony in the Antarctic Peninsula area. In contrast to Joinville and the Adelie Penguin colony, the Gentoos here were still sitting on eggs. Very few chicks were in evidence. The conditions were great to permit an easy walk to either end of the colony. On the far left of the landing site a leucistic Gentoo Penguin was spotted. It was also possible to hike up to a lofty view point where the “alpine” Gentoos were nesting. From here there was a terrific view of the Gerlache Strait, the landing site far below, the ship and lots of icebergs. At 12:30 it was time to say good bye to Cuverville Island and the raucous penguins. Fram turned her bow to the north and we set a course for King George Island in the South Shetland Islands. We enjoyed excellent conditions to cruise across Bransfield Strait. In the evening we attended briefings which informed us about the activities for the following day.

Crabeater Seals Wilhelmina Bay

Gentoo Penguins Neko Harbor

Joinville Island

This morning at about 09:00 we started our landing on Joinville Island. It was a little chilly at -4˚C and with the windchill it felt like about -10˚. Save for the colonies of penguins, the island was completely covered with snow and ice. Just above the landing site was a busy colony of Gentoo Penguins and further up the hill was a very large colony of Adelie Penguins. Most of the penguins were boasting two chicks but we could see penguins with single chicks at many nests. This was most probably the result of predation on an egg or chick by the ever present Skuas and Kelp Gulls. There is a lot of open space to walk around on Joinville so it was great to be able to stretch our legs after being on the ship for two days. The last Polar Cirkle Boat left the shores of Joinville at 13:40 In the afternoon we cruised by huge tabular icebergs and were lucky enough to spot Killer and Humpback Whales while Fram made her way towards our landing sites for tomorrow.

Day Two On The Drake

Day Two on the Drake. By now everyone was getting their sea legs and the dining room was well attended for breakfast. It seems that on most trips we have one or two guests that wish for a storm. They have a romantic notion about what experiencing a storm at sea will be like. They’ve seen A Perfect Storm or some other movie and think, “Gee! Wouldn’t that be neat! I want to experience that!” “Uh. No. You don’t,” I always think to myself but am too polite to say it out loud. “There isn’t an off switch to a storm.” In any case, I’m sure that the storm watchers were well satisfied with yesterday’s weather. It was business as usual today. Once again there were lectures scheduled throughout the day. We were able to schedule several bridge visits and we also had the mandatory IAATO briefings. It probably surprised some of our guests as we also had a vacuuming session where everyone had to thoroughly clean their outdoor gear to try to prevent any alien species from invading Antarctica. We finished the day with a fashion show where the officers and Expedition Team modelled clothing from the gift shop in the Observation Lounge.

Bouncing Across The High Seas

While we all had a good night’s sleep last night due to a late start and very quiet Beagle Channel we woke up abruptly to a different situation early this morning. Fram started bumping and shuddering and rocking at around 06:30 - 07:00. Phew, it was windy outside. So windy that it was ripping the tops right off of huge waves and sending the spray scurrying across a stormy ocean. We had wind speeds in excess of 60 knots. How windy is that? windy enough to keep the dining room very quiet and windy enough to keep the lecture rooms poorly attended. Especially during the morning when the storm was at it’s worst. Despite the heavy seas it was business as usual. The day was filled with lectures, films and our rubber boot rental program. Lectures are of course optional. Slowly, slowly, throughout the day, the winds dropped and the seas reflected the diminished winds. By the early evening, dinner time, Fram was rolling gently from side to side and most of those who had been sea sick earlier were showing better colour.

An Interesting Day In Ushuaia

The weather was very typical for a summer day in the southern most city in the world.  A little cold.  Very windy.  A little rainy, and a little sunny.

Most of our guests arrived in Ushuaia on a charter flight from Buenos Aires which landed at approximately 12:30.

Some people chose to go on an excursion to the national park while others chose to explore Ushuaia and have lunch on their own.

By 16:00 everyone had made their way to Fram and were eagerly awaiting departure.

We had a mandatory safety drill and later in the evening we met in the Observation Lounge for a very interesting speech from the Captain and a welcome cocktail.



Left to right: our nurse. Massiel and our Doctor, Milixa.




This is Nestor one of our excelent dining room staff



Meet Rodaniel part of our hard working house keeping team.

Cape Horn and the Beagle Channel

An overcast sky greeted us today and the seas continued to be calm to moderate. Our smooth and easy ride continued toward Cape Horn.

This morning we had a discussion of Climate Change. This was not a formal full-blown lecture, just a few slides to warm us up for an interactive discussion session. The staff and passengers from several different nations contributed their observations on the changing climate and we discussed possible strategies for solutions or at least minimizing the effects and the rate of change.

By 1400 we were close enough to Cape Horn for us to see the bluffs and the buildings and the outline of the storied sculpture. The top of the monument has a vertical cut-out of a soaring Albatross separating the halves of the stainless steel diamond shaped sculpture.

While we were too far from the site to read the poem below the sculpture, here is the text:

“I am the Albatross that waits for you at the end of the earth.

  I am the forgotten soul of the dead sailors who crossed Cape Horn from all of the seas of

  of the world.                     

  But they did not die in the furious waves.

  Today they fly in my wings to eternity in the last trough of the Antarctic winds.”

                                                                                                       - Sara Vial

Tonight we rendezvous in Beagle Channel off the Argentine coastal station where we will pick up a pilot who will guide the FRAM to Ushuaia. We expect to be at the dock 0800. Then we must say good-bye to our fellow travelers and the FRAM staff that begin the next step in their homeward journey.

North-Bound with Tailwinds

Personal experience and weather records confirm that southerly winds blowing northward are uncommon. But that is the situation we find ourselves in today as we make our way across Drake Passage. The FRAM is proceeding northward with moderate following seas, our ride is comfortable and we are making good time to the tip of South America.

The FRAM is accompanied by a large number of Cape Petrels, some are nearby possibly taking advantage of the air currents caused by the FRAM’s superstructure. Others more distant are gliding and scooping up bits of food from the sea surface. All day we have had Light Mantled Sooty Albatrosses and Giant Petrels joining our traveling ornithological collection.

After lunch we gathered on the fore-deck for a group photo, followed by waffles in the observation lounge.

Lectures continued in English and Norwegian and tonight, all nationalities will be put to the test in our expedition quiz, hosted by the expedition team.   

Foggy Final Landing

Deception Island dawned in a foggy day. Our entrance through Neptune’s Bellows was clear at sea level but fog and low clouds obscured the higher reaches of the Island. The first passengers ashore were those hiking to visit the penguin colony at Baily Head. The fog at higher elevations could quickly clear and just as quickly return to obscure the prospective trail. Our expedition staff had their years of experience and GPS units though and set off with about 80 passengers. The hike to Baily Head was a bit misty at the start but when we reached the rookery we had a good view of the hundreds of Chinstrap Penguins.

Two other activities also took place: a glaciology/geology tour used Polarcirkle boats to visit several locations along the inside of the crater. After passing by the unoccupied Spanish and Argentine station they landed and explored a fumarole site and the deformed Black Glacier. The fog at altitude did not affect the mornings kayak trip and they were able to paddle close to the wreck on the west side of Neptune’s Bellows. This wreck is the whale catcher boat “Southern Hunter” which grounded on Raven Rock in the middle of the Bellows. The sea and wind conditions were nearly flat calm and the Kayakers ventured through the Bellows and circled Petes Pillar a free-standing column of volcanic rock, just outside the Bellows. 

 

Those not on one of these longer endeavors walked among the ruins of whaling station Hector and the buildings that housed first the whalers and later the British Antarctic researchers. Our visit closed with an unprecedented number of swimmers, more than 60 people are now Antarctic swimmers with the certificates to prove it.

Our afternoon landing at Half Moon Island was made in overcast conditions. From our landing site we hiked past 100’s of Chinstrap Penguins and over the ridge to reach the penguin colony on the south side of the Island. Here we saw a few Macaroni Penguins among the large Chinstrap colony.

While we were ashore some our shipmates circumnavigated Half Moon Island by kayak, experiencing moderate swell and wind as they paddled the last stretch to the landing site. They were able to see several weddell seals and the beautiful glaciers on the backside of the island- As this landing our last in Antarctic drew to a close we could not help but reflect on how fortunate we have been on this trip to experience the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and lastly Antarctica. The FRAM lifted its anchor and we headed for our crossing of Drake Passage.   

A True Antarctic Day and A New Year!

The plan for today was not much of a plan. We learned at yesterdays briefings for todays activities that the weather and ice conditions in Antarctic Sound might be grim. The conditions in the forecast were accurate. Ice conditions along the southeastern side of Antarctic Sound prevented us from venturing to a landing on the Antarctic Peninsula.

There was only light snow but it blew nearly horizontally as winds gusted to 19 meters per second or 40 miles per hour.

We selected Kinnes Cove on the southwest side of Joinville Island as our alternative location for a landing today. It turned out that our alternative landing location needed an alternative landing site. At our first landing site our landing operation was bedeviled by shallow water and high winds. We had landed a few passengers ashore, but then transferred them to a second landing site that had deeper water and was a bit more protected form the gusty winds. At our alternative landing site, everyone was able to get ashore.

 

Here we could scramble over the bare andesite rocks to the snow field above where we found ourselves among a large mixed colony of Adelie and Gentoo Penguins. The wind continued to gust and the snow continued but all of us had the full experience of a true Antarctic day landing under true Antarctic conditions. Conditions that to be honest were a major downgrade from the sunny and relatively warm and calm conditions we have had at our landings in the South Georgia and yesterday at Elephant Island.

These true Antarctic weather conditions prevailed the rest of the day. We motored southwesterly in Antarctic Sound dodging floating ice. On the bridge, our biologists kept a continuous lookout for wildlife, snow hampered long range visibility but we did see humpback whales on several occasions.. Our travels in Antarctic Sound came to an end at Rosamel Island.  This island, shaped like a scoop of ice cream, is where the Antarctic Sound opens into the expanse of the Weddell Sea.

At Rosamel we reversed course and headed for Deception Island. On our way we passed a tabular ice berg that stretched almost 1 nautical mile or almost 2 kilometers in length. The width of the big berg was left to our imagination. Tonight we welcome the New Year first with a dinner then a gala celebration.       

A CLOSING CORRECTION:

In yesterdays blog there was an error concerning the Shackleton’s small boats.

Shackleton’s men arrived at Elephant Island in 3 boats: the James Caird, the Dudley Docker and the Stancomb Willis. For the sail to South Georgia the James Caird was strengthened and decked over.  

Intrepid Landing at Elephant Island

This morning we arrived at Elephant Island. The sky was a thin overcast and the wind was negligible, as a result there were barely ripples on the surface of the ocean. Best of there was almost no sea swells. It was the first time in the 11 years that Hurtigruten has been operating in the Antarctic that we could attempt a landing at this fabled site. Decisions were made and Polarcirkle boats were launched.

Looking backward, in 1916 Elephant Island is the first land reached by Sir Ernest Shackleton and his men after their ship “Endurance” was crushed by ice in their attempt to reach the southern coast of the Weddell Sea. Shackleton’s party reached Elephant Island in 2 small boats. Here the wood from the smaller boat was used to strengthen and deck over the second boat. The “Boss” then left 22 men under the leadership of Frank Wild while he and 5 others sailed on to South Georgia, where he planned to obtain a ship and rescue the men had to leave behind. That plan was not to be and it was 135 days after he left Elephant Island that he returned on the rescue ship YELCHO under the command of Chilean Pilot Luis Pardo Villalon.

On our ride to the island we enjoyed a short coastal cruise viewing the steeply inclined rocks that form the island. The rocks are shales and mudstones that have been compressed, heated, tilted and at the landing site they were riddled with thin veins of white quartz. On the rocks and nearby snow and ice fields were 100’s of Chinstrap Penguins. In additions we saw 3 Gentoo Penguins and 1 Macaroni Penguin plus a Leopard Seal cruised past the landing site.

Our landing at Point Wild went smoothly as the weather and sea conditions never deteriorated. We were able to get people in and out of the Polarcirkle boats with ease.It was a short walk to visit the monument to Piloto Pardo and from that site we could see the remnant stonework that Shackleton’s crew constructed during their isolation.

Our landings were interrupted for short periods of time on 3 occasions by calving from the Furness Glacier. Needless to say everyone had a great time and no doubt we will all try to match the photos we took today with those taken by Frank Hurley the photographer who documented the “Endurance” Expedition.

As we left Elephant Island we circled clock-wise passing Cape Valentine and then headed for Gibbs Island on our way to the Antarctic Sound area.