The Drake lake

Today was a sea day where we sailed over part of the Drake Passage. King Neptune has been good to us and given us a smooth ride this far. 

During the day there were different lectures, some of them about whales, penguins, as well as a political and geographical introduction to Antarctica. During the day a boot shop was set up in order for passengers to rent boots in good time before our first landing. If everything follows the plan we will have our first landing on Half Moon Island tomorrow evening. The day has been mostly cloudy, but for a couple of hours after lunch people could enjoy the sun on the outside decks.

Some were busy photographing the different birds we could spot from the deck. Even though we are far from land there is quite a lot bird-life to see. During the day we spotted several kinds of seabirds, such as the Wandering Albatross (which has the biggest wingspan of all birds), Giant Petrel, Antarctic Prion and Cape Petrel. After dinner there was a movie called “Frozen Seas”.  I think we are all really excited to reach Antarctica tomorrow!

The Beagle Channel

The Beagle Channel

Once again we are underway, cruising east on the Beagle Channel. It is a beautiful evening.  The sky is mostly overcast but the setting sun periodically manages to highlight the mountainous landscape. There is lots of wildlife to appreciate on the Beagle.  Southern Sea Lions inhabit various islets as well as nesting South American Terns and thousands of Cormorants. It is also possible to see our first penguins as Magellanic Penguins nest on several of the islands.  The eager anticipation of our guests onboard is almost palpable. It is for most people a trip of a lifetime. 

Earlier today Ushuaia was at it’s best.  The temperature was a pleasant 15˚C and the mountains surrounding the small city were covered in a fresh snowfall.  It was as pretty as a post card.  

By 17:00 everyone was on board and we were able to conduct our mandatory safety drill before leaving port.  Everyone was also issued a spiffy blue jacket for the expedition.

The Beagle Channel

At 21:00 we all met in the Observation Lounge for a welcome cocktail and speech from the Captain. The Expedition Team was also introduced at this time.

It will be about 4 hours until we hit the open ocean.  We are expecting fairly calm seas for the rest of the evening.

PETERMANN, LOCKROY AND CHANNELS:

The overnight campers on Petermann Island packed up and returned to the FRAM by 0830 or 8:30AM. Once they were onboard and settled in for breakfast the rest of us went ashore to enjoy the wildlife and the scenery. Perhaps most striking here was the overlook that allowed us to look down on the grounded icebergs in the cove named “iceberg alley.”

Our walk in another direction led us to a rookery with Adelie and Gentoo Penguins and Blue-eyed Shags and several skuas nesting on the periphery of the colonies.

During the course of our landing the low clouds lifted and we could see the striking mass of Mount Scott across the channel. Once we were all back onboard the FRAM headed northward passing back through Lemaire Channel. Our passage in the Channel in the afternoon light was truly enjoyable and one can only guess the number of photos that were taken.

Port Lockroy was named in 1904 by the explorer Charcot for Edouard Lockroy the President of France’s Chamber of Deputies. Lockroy has two claims to fame: he not only helped Charcot obtain funding for his expedition but he also was responsible for the building permit that allowed the engineer Eiffel to construct his tower.

Port Lockroy is unique, but for a different reasons that our other landing sites. Port Lockroy is an excellent museum where the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust has gone to great lengths to preserve and display historical equipment and clothing from the 1950’s and 1960’s when the site was an active research base. Port Lockroy is also for shopping as the UKAHT operates in part of the building a post office and shop selling books, maps and clothing. Best of all profits from the sales go are directed by the UKAHT to restore and maintain bases of historic significance. 

During the first years of occupation at Port Lockroy, humans were the only residents. Now the situation has changed, Genntoo Penguins and Snowy Sheathbill nest in close proximity around and under the buildings at Port Lockroy. One cannot avoid these creatures as you traverse the path to the base building.

Our departure transit from Port Lockroy to Ushuaia took an unexpected turn. The FRAM received a call from a nearby charter yacht that one of their passengers had a medical condition. Following the age old tradition of ships at sea we changed course, rendezvoused with the yacht and the passenger was transferred to the FRAM and now we are on our way across the Drake Passage to Ushuaia.

DANKO AND NEKO:

 Our campers climbed out of their tents this morning to be greeted by a welcoming committee of penguins strolling through the campsite. Working together we took down the tents and packed our gear and headed back to the FRAM for a hearty breakfast and the rest of the days activities.

After breakfast we had a full passenger landing at Danko Island. The topography of the Island is steeper side flanks with a rounded summit. Many of us climbed to the top and enjoyed and photographed the 360 degree view of the surrounding islands.

While onshore we saw Gentoo Penguins and Kelp Gulls with chicks.

Others of us enjoyed kayaking and Polarcirkle boat cruises along the Danko Island shoreline and water-level views of the nearby islands and glaciers.

During lunch the FRAM motored to our second landing site of the day at Neko Harbor.

The Neko Harbor landing site is on the Antarctica and is one of the most, if not the most scenic, locations that we visit. From the rock overlook point we could see and appreciate the steep drop in elevation that the glaciers make as they creep, flow and avalanche in their descent from more that a 1000 meters or yards on the continent to sea level where they calve.

Our hike up to the overlook began on the sandy beach where we had to skirt around lazing Weddell Seals before we headed upward while being careful to avoid the penguin highways. At the almost midway point we encountered a colony of Gentoo Penguins and in this colony the young birds were between 4 and 8 days of age.

After completing the up-hill climb to the overlook point and taking photographs many of us took the “easy way” down the slope by sliding to the base of the hill. Then it wastime to return to the FRAM and have dinner and watch the beauty of Lemaire Channel slip by on our way to Petermann Island to set up the tents for a night of Amundsen style camping.

FOG, FLAT AND CUVERVILLE:

Today’s sunrise was at 02:52 or 2:52AM and at breakfast time the FRAM was motoring in relatively heavy fog across very smooth seas. We continued our transit toward Cuverville Island for an afternoon landing. While underway our Expedition Staff gave 2 lectures: one on the various types of whales frequently encountered in Antarctic waters. This lecture was interrupted when the FRAM slowed to allow us to gather on deck and observe and photograph a group of Killer Whales. The second lecture related the on site experience of two years of wintering over at the Polish Antarctic Research Base named for the geologist Henryk Arctowski.

The overcast skies and a few snow squalls provided the background for our landing at  Cuverville Island. Our Polarcirkle boats had to weave their way through grounded icebergs to get us to and from shore. On shore there were hundreds of thousands of Gentoo Penguins. Some still had eggs and many had very young chicks, perhaps these late hatchlings will not be fully feathered for sea by the time the sea-ice starts to form. This could mean a smaller population at this site next season. The hills behind the landing beach at Cuverville offered some of us the opportunity to hike about and up and down on snowshoes.

After our landing at Cuverville Island we headed slightly south to Danko Island, where 16 of us went overnight camping. Perhaps overnight is not the best term as it never became very dark. The sky was overcast and the sun never was directly shining at our campsite, as a result sunset and sunrise were not clear events. It was darkest at the interval between about a half hour after midnight and a half an hour after one in the morning. Even then it was never truly dark or pitch black as the snow cover provided reflected light. The tents were fine and the 2 layers of sleeping pads kept the cold in the snow and did not allow the cold to penetrate our sleeping bags or us. Before pitching in for the night we hiked to a nearby knoll that overlooked our campsite.        

After that some crawled into their sleeping bags while other walked around our campsite taking additional photos. By 0600 or 6AM the next morning everyone was up and we worked together packing our tents and other equipment for transport back to the FRAM. 

BROWN BLUFF AND BASE ESPERANZA:

 After breakfast we landed at Brown Bluff at the tip of the Peninsula. The very tip is the known as Tabarin Peninsula, while the larger feature is identified as the Antarctic Peninsula or the Palmer Peninsula. With any name it is geologically striking and the home to 1000’s of Adelie and Gentoo Penguins. The Adelie chicks were downy brown and some were almost as large as the adults. The Gentoo chicks were white and grey and were smaller in size, in fact some appeared to be only recently hatched.

At Brown Bluff the beach rocks and the namesake bluff behind the beach are rocks of volcanic origin. The geology of this area has been studied in detail and the volcano partially erupted under and ice sheet. Approximately a million years ago, pillow lavas and volcanic bombs and ash spewed out of the volcano. Today we saw beach boulders with layers of ash intermixed with layers and pebble to cobble size volcanic rocks. Many of the volcanic rocks have vesicles or small holes indicating that the lavas when molten has significant quantities of entrapped gases. A few of the beach boulders have strange shapes to geologists this indicates that their surfaces have been sand blasted by the strong winds, that frequent this area.

Our next stop was at the Argentine Esperanza Base. This region of Hope Bay was first occupied by a British station and now houses the large Esperanza Base. In 1978 the Base was the location where the first person was born in Antarctica. On 7 January 1978 Emilio Marcos Palma was born here.

Our visit to the Base was long planned but nearly cancelled as earlier this week there was a fatal accident at the site. Following several radio conversations with the Base Commander we were welcomed ashore, in part to offset the grim mood following the accident. We were formed in groups ashore and given guided-translated tour of the Base including the museum, school and chapel. Our tour ended at the large social hall where many of us purchased shirts, mailed post cards and enjoyed tea and traditional Argentinean pastries.  

FIRST LANDING AND FOG

 The fog was quite thick at breakfast time. The officers on the bridge were using the radar units to locate and keep us clear of any large icebergs. To allow the officers to focus on safety our visits to the bridge, scheduled for this morning, were postponed and will be rescheduled at a later date. The seas are quite calm and the winds are only at the level of a gentle breeze.

Our first sight of the Antarctic was the South Shetland Islands and as we passed through Nelson Strait we were welcomed by our first sighting of several whales. They welcomed us to Antarctica by broaching off our bow.

By late afternoon we arrived at Half Moon Island and on this our first landing we were greeted by thousands of Chinstrap Penguins, a few Gentoo Penguins and a single Macaroni Penguin. The weather cleared a bit while we were on-shore and the rugged peaks of Livingstone Island became visible through the haze.

The evening closed with the FRAM fashion show. The models were clearly amateurs but recognizable as their professional jobs are as our expedition staff and ships officers. Tonight we are underway to the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.

  

SEA DAY AND READINESS

Today was spent motoring southward and getting ready for our activities in the Antarctic.

Last night we exited Beagle Channel and turned south crossing the South American continental shelf and heading for our deep water transit in the Drake Passage bound for the South Shetland Islands.

The winds and swell were bit larger when we began our transit but by breakfast time the wind was down to breeze level. The ocean swells coming from the northwest were only 1 or 2 meters or 3 to 6 feet in height. This could be characterized as a gently rolling passage with quite moderate wind and sea conditions.

Lectures today covered the geology and geography and glaciology of Antarctica and introduced us to the sea birds, penguins and seals that we will see once we reach our destinations.

Our staff photographer spent a good portion of the day helping people learn the operational features of their newly purchased cameras. The on-deck photo session focused on capturing birds in flight. Alongside the FRAM today Giant Peterels plus Wandering, Black Browed and Grey-headed Albatrosses were photographed.

While inside the FRAM we all were fitted for the insulated rubber boots we will wear in the Polarcirkle boats when headed to the shoreline and walking on the rocks and snow of the islands and the continent.

Tomorrow we plan our first landing on the South Shetland Islands.

TURN AROUND DAY

Today is a busy day for the FRAM. We docked in Ushuaia about 0715 or 7:15AM and after the clearance formalities were completed our passengers began boarding the waiting buses. Before their flights to Buenos Aires and homeward some passengers went on guided tours while others went shopping in Ushuaia.

Onboard the FRAM the corridors were busy with preparations for our passengers who will arrive in the afternoon. The Expedition Staff ventured into the deep storage compartment and retrieved many boxes on the aqua colored weather-proof the jackets that will be passed out to the newly arrived passengers.

From the dock, diesel fuel then passenger’s luggage were delivered. Later fresh vegetables and galley stores were stowed onboard. Just before leaving Ushuaia we gathered on-deck for our safety drill. The Argentine pilot was onboard and the FRAM pulled away from the dock at 1752 or 5:52 PM.

We are on our way to Antarctica, the great white continent. The first leg of our voyage is east in the Beagle Channel. This Channel connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and is an alternative passageway to the more northerly Straits of Magellan and the more southerly rounding of Cape Horn via the open oceans. The Channel was charted by the HMS Beagle on its first voyage to Patagonia. In the course of that endeavor the Captain of the Beagle committed suicide and the younger Robert Fitzroy assumed command. For the second charting voyage of the Beagle Captain Fitzroy wished to have onboard gentleman to dine and converse with. The young gentleman that was selected was Charles Darwin and the way we see the world around us was forever changed.

   

The second leg of our voyage will be a south of Cape Horn crossing of the Drake Passage. Stay tuned as tomorrow we will report on the weather and sea conditions in this often rough stretch of water where the Atlantic and Pacific merge. 

North Bound On The Drake, Day Two

Today’s weather was almost a carbon copy of yesterday’s.  We had winds in the neighbourhood of 25 - 30 knots for most of the day.  This produced sea states that Fram very elegantly absorbed as we plied our way towards Cape Horn.

The gym on Fram.

We used the sea day to continue with the lecture program.  Once again there was lots of time to relax, go to the gym or the sauna.

In the early evening at 17:00 we met in the Observation Lounge for a farewell cocktail and the Captain delivered a farewell speech.  The crew, officers and Expedition Team concluded the farewell meeting by singing a song that was especially written for MS Fram.

Immediately following the farewell presentation there was a charity auction to raise funds for the South Georgia Heritage Trust.  There were three items up for auction: a print of Wandering Albatross on Prion Island in South Georgia, the ship’s flag with the Hurtigruten logo that was flying throughout our voyage and a chart of our entire voyage with our route and all landing sights and dates plotted on the chart.  All told, we raised approximately $1000 USD for the South Georgia Heritage Trust.

Albatross monument and light house at Cape horn.

Right after the auction we were able to go outside to see the famous Cape Horn.  We were able to pass very closely having received permission from the Chilean coastal authorities.

Northbound On The Drake

After a fantastic expedition exploring the Antarctic Peninsula we are now headed north on our route across Drake Passage back to Ushuaia. As per usual the north bound part of our journey is a time to reflect on all of the things we have seen and done. There is plenty of time to leisurely pack our warm winter clothing, to review photos, to relax in the sauna, perhaps go to the gym or just nap and while away the hours enjoying the view of the open ocean. The crossing is for now, very comfortable. There is enough wind and waves to be a constant reminder that we are on a ship at sea but not enough to prevent relaxing on board. There have also been other activities taking place throughout the day the mainstay of which is our lecture program delivered in three different languages - English, German and French (on this cruise). The lecture rooms seem perfectly engineered as a relaxation therapy room as more than one person lapsed into a somnambulatory state. We finished our day on the Drake with a question and answer session with the entire Expedition Team in the Observation Lounge. The session lasted for nearly an hour with questions ranging from Antarctic Treaty policies to sustainable tourism in Antarctica.

Neko Harbour and Port Lockroy

Neko Harbor Glacier

We started our landing operations at Neko Harbour at 09:00.  There was a lot going on this morning with kayaking, Polar Cirkel boat cruising and our first and only continent landing.

We landed on a nice sandy beach.  Right beside the landing site were three Weddell Seals.  We were able to walk up to a nice overview of the Gentoo colony.  Many people opted to walk on top of a snow-covered ice field where they had a great view of Fram far below, a striking glacier face and beautiful Neko Harbour.  

Weddell Seal Neko Harbor

The conditions were great for bum-sliding in the snow.  Peals of laughter and shouts of glee could periodically be heard over the calling penguins as people slid on their backsides down a large snow-covered hill.

Those that went cruising had an extremely exciting trip.  They saw Humpback and Minke Whales and several Weddell Seals.  There were also lots of icebergs to cruise by and thick brash ice to cruise through. 

At Port Lockroy

In the afternoon we made our final stop in Antarctica at Port Lockroy.  Port Lockroy has a museum and gift shop that is operated by the British Antarctic Heritage Trust.  It also has a large colony of Gentoo Penguins.  It was easy to observe penguins with chicks and many penguins still with eggs.

Gentoo Penguin feet!

Just about everyone visited the museum and gift shop.  The proceeds from the gift shop support the museum and other British antarctic Heritage Trust concerns in Antarctica.

Snowy Sheathbills, Port Lockroy

Half Moon Island and Admiralty Bay

We landed on a cobblestone beach on Halfmoon Island at 08:00.  The main attraction at this site is a large colony of Chinstrap Penguins.  There were also two Southern Elephant Seals, a couple of Antarctic Fur Seals and one lonely Macaroni Penguin.

It was completely overcast at the start of the landing but by 10:30 the sun was shining and it was mostly blue skies.  It turned into an absolute stellar day.  You didn’t want to forget to apply your sunblock on a day like today.

The footing was a little slippery on ice and frozen snow but by mid-morning the sun had done it’s work and had softened the icy snow turning it into much a easier walking surface.

One group of people elected to go on a lengthy snow-shoeing excursion while another group of eager paddlers went on a kayak trip that circumnavigated the island.

By 11:30 everyone was back on the ship and we set sail for King George Island.

Later in the afternoon we landed in Admiralty Bay where we were able to visit both the Chilean and Russian bases.  One of the highlights of these two bases is the beautiful little Russian Orthodox church.  It was built in Russia and then shipped and finally assembled at the Russian base.  It first opened  in February 15, 2004.  

The weather was mild with overcast skies, ideal for strolling around the two bases.  It was interesting to see the visual differences between the Chile and Russian Bases.  Chile looked rather prosperous while in marked contrast, the Russian base looked more utilitarian and like it could use a coat of paint.

“LARGE” is the word for the day!



Humpback Whales bubble net feeding.



En route to Cuverville Island we went ship cruising in Wilhelmina Bay in the hopes of spotting some whales. Since the early days of whaling in Antarctica, Wilhelmina has been known to be a rich feeding ground that attracts whales in the Austral summer. Deep in the bay we encountered three pairs of humpback Whales. Four of the whales were very obviously feeding. We were able to observe the whales blowing perfect circles of bubbles and then they would surface in the centre of the ring, mouths agape. It was really amazing to watch the bubble-net feeding as time after time, one pair in particular, blew a perfect circle of bubbles to entrap their prey. We assumed they were feeding on krill as we could observe large amounts of krill on the ship’s sonar and many sea birds feeding on krill alongside the whales. Later in the morning we landed at Cuverville Island, the site of the largest Gentoo Colony in the Antarctic Peninsula area. In contrast to Joinville and the Adelie Penguin colony, the Gentoos here were still sitting on eggs. Very few chicks were in evidence. The conditions were great to permit an easy walk to either end of the colony. On the far left of the landing site a leucistic Gentoo Penguin was spotted. It was also possible to hike up to a lofty view point where the “alpine” Gentoos were nesting. From here there was a terrific view of the Gerlache Strait, the landing site far below, the ship and lots of icebergs. At 12:30 it was time to say good bye to Cuverville Island and the raucous penguins. Fram turned her bow to the north and we set a course for King George Island in the South Shetland Islands. We enjoyed excellent conditions to cruise across Bransfield Strait. In the evening we attended briefings which informed us about the activities for the following day.

Crabeater Seals Wilhelmina Bay

Gentoo Penguins Neko Harbor