Stanley and surrounding areas

Dear readers,

We arrived in Stanley at 08:00 AM on 04/12/2014 after two perfect landings at West Point and Carcass Island. Once again, we were lucky with the weather. With an air temperature of 8.2 C° and a wind speed of 8.4 m/s, we were in for another comfortable day with picture perfect light.

 

 

The passengers were able to take a shuttle bus every 30 minutes from the pier to the center of Stanley, where many visited the landmarks and did some shopping.

 

 

 

 

Most of them chose to join an excursion to witness and learn about the breathtaking nature surrounding Stanley. These were the activities the passengers could do:

–                    Scenic Air Tour:

Six of the passengers joined a 35 minutes flying excursion over Stanley in a twin engine Britten-Norman Islander aircraft. We were able to get unique views of Stanley and its surrounding areas and learn a lot about the town. We got a real taste of the mountainous terrain, wild landscapes and natural coastal beauty. During the flight we got to see places like Gypsy Cove, Cape Pembroke, the lighthouse,  Lady Elizabeth shipwreck, Kidney Cove, Port Louise, Mount Tumbledown, Longdon, Two sisters and Harriet, Stone Runs, Fitzroy Farm and Bluff Cove Lagoon.

–                    Bluff Cove Lagoon:

This beautiful privately-owned farm with a pristine white wilderness beach is home to over 3000 Gentoo Penguins, and a small growing colony of King Penguins. We were only able to reach the site by four-wheel drive vehicles on a very exciting (in a bumpy way) safari! We did this with small groups of 4 people per car.  On the way we saw some Belted Galloway cows with calves that were peacefully grazing the fields of the property. We were greeted by the rangers who quickly informed us about the site and took us to see a very rare Leucistic (partial albino) Gentoo penguin.

We were lucky enough to meet Hattie (one of the owners) in their Sea Cabbage café. Hattie proudly showed us her Felt creations made with wool from their own sheep. After tea/coffee/hot chocolate and over 15 sorts of home-made cookies and cakes with Diddle Dee, we were ready for the wild ride back to the ship.

Photo by: Tom Warmolts

 

Photo by: Tessa Van Drie

 

 Photo by: Tessa Van Drie

 

Photo by: Tom Warmolts

–                    Falkland Nature Walk:

Our Expedition Team member Rudolf took our passengers on an exciting walk through the nature of the Falkland's with the help of two local guides. The tour was a great success and the passengers were very pleased. The nature in this part of the world is outstanding and a treat to the camera lens. Peter, one of the guides, is a former passenger of Fram and liked this place so much that he applied for a job and now works here! The other guide's name is Tom. He has a locally famous farther who makes picture calendars and is married to the daughter of Laurain from Carcass Island, where we were yesterday. Only to prove how everyone knows each-other in the Falkland Islands!

–                    Bird watching excursion:

On this hike over the upland areas south of Stanley we saw many species of birds, some of which were well into the breeding cycle and had chicks. This included the Speckled Teals, Rufous-chested Dotterel, and Upland Geese. Overall, we saw over 20 species of birds, and for many of us, these were lifers- the first time we had ever seen them.

Photo by: Tom Warmolts

At 4 PM Fram left Stanley and started the journey to South Georgia. When we sailed out of the port, we were able to see a few colonies of (amongst others) Magellanic Penguins.

Welcome to Falkland Islands

We spent the day yesterday on sea towards the Falklands islands – getting prepared for the landings: Briefings were held, jackets handed out, rubber boots rented, so that nothing is missing when we get to West Point in the morning, our first landing on the Falkland Islands!

And what a beautiful sunny day was ahead of us: At about 8:30 in the morning we dropped the first Polar Cirkel Boats into the water and made our way to the jetty where Thiez & Kiki and two helpers awaited us. A gentle walk over green meadows led us to the Devil’s Nose on the other side, with hundreds of Black-browed Albatrosses and Rockhopper Penguins! It was a coming and going in the colonies, the albatrosses flew so close over our heads, you nearly could touch them!

But also on the walk to and from our landing site were lots of birds to see: Caracaras, Kelp Geese, Steamer Ducks, Oystercatchers and so on. Down at the landing site Peale’s Dolphins were playing in the waves and a huge flock of Upland Geese were bathing and swimming.

In the cottage of Thiez and Kiki heaps and loads of homemade cookies were waiting for the hikers, what a treat! The Turkey Vultures on the roof top were looking almost a bit “jealous” down at us.

In the afternoon we sailed on to Carcass Island. Whoever felt for a longer “leg-stretcher” went on a hike to Leopard Beach and back. The white sandy beach there was just full with Magellanic and Gentoo Penguins, and out on the water the penguins were porpoising, a great spectacle, everywhere something to see!

The evening sun was shining from the blue sky when we went back – not without a stop at the cottage of Rob and Lorraine McGill where we got served – guess what – heaps of delicious cookies.

What a great start for our Antarctica Expedition!

The start of something big

So here we are on the Beagle Channel, named after the HMS Beagle, captained by Pringle Stokes in the 1826-30. The ship, which became famous later for transporting Charles Darwin on his life-changing trip through South America, was making surveys of parts of the South American coast, along with another, HMS Adventure under Capt. King. Sadly, Capt. Stokes committed suicide after a lengthy bout of depression. Robert Fitzroy was meteorologist on the Beagle and was eventually promoted to master.  It was on the second voyage of the Beagle around the world- 1831-1836- that Fitzroy took Darwin along as a companion. Arguably, the most brilliant biologist and naturalist ever to have lived, Darwin went on to write the famous “Origin of Species” and many other seminal works.

The channel is an amazing place, bordered to the north by Chile and Argentina and to the south by various Chilean islands. The land is clad with dank Southern Beech forest and at higher elevations above the treeline, snow fields were still prominent.  You could smell the beech in the air!

Of course, the Beagle Channel is familiar to Fram because we start and end most of our cruises to Antarctica from Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world. “USH” sits on the north shore of the channel.

Today was the start of our third cruise this Antarctic summer season. We have a full ship of eager passengers looking forward to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and Antarctica. First days are always tough. People are tired after traveling so far (Ushuaia is a long way from anywhere!) and all they want to do is settle into their cabins for a good rest before starting the trip. Before that could happen though, a few things need to be done such as the important safety briefing and also the enjoyable Captain’s welcome reception.

As we sailed east down the Beagle, the mountains, clouds and sun made for dramatic scenery everywhere you looked. What a great way to start our trip!

Things you can do at sea

A ship is not just a means of transport - it is a floating community, a little city on the move, self-sustained, self-contained.

So, there is no time for boredom. Standing on deck watching the waves and the birds alone is something you can’t get enough of. All these species! Cape Petrels, Prions, Southern Giant Petrels, Albatrosses, all are soaring high above the ship, around it. And if you are really lucky you’ll see a whale, in our case it was a breeching humpback, a rare thing.

Once you get chilly, you can always get inside, maybe to get one of the many lectures. Doesn’t hurt to smarten up a little on birds, history, geology, whaling, does it?

The crew takes advantage of the landing-free time to conduct a fire drill. No worries, the smoke is just for show…

Captain Rune opens up the bridge for his explanatory tours, obviously quite proud of the top-notch equipment on his ship.

Toward the evening the waves get a little more benign, so curtains up! for the MS FRAM crew show! Everybody had a great time, also it is a good occasion not to think two days ahead. Somehow the departure is looming over our heads. Already…?

Next day probably remains unforgettable, for the ship is getting pretty much pounded by waves of 6-7 m height. Plates slide off the table, glasses in the bar topple over. So, always a hand for the ship, please!

Fortunately, in the afternoon we are getting in lee of some rocks. Some rocks?! Crikey, but this is Cape Hoorn! Captain ad kept good speed during the first day of the crossing, so we have some time in the bank to make this detour to everybody’s delight.

A little later, the sea is more or less calm now, the last official event on deck 7: Captain’s Farewell, much acclaimed by everyone.
And later on something spectacular: Our Chinese group has a ceremony during which we all put a letter into a time capsule, a letter to our future selves - the capsule will be kept on FRAM and reopened in ten years time. How very interesting!

And now? Now it’s packing, exchanging addresses, having last drinks at the bar. Many are heaving a sigh.

One more night, folks!

Port Lockroy and heading home

Guest blog by Tudor Morgan - Antarctic Heritage Trust

The morning at Port Lockroy started with a radio call to MS Fram who were anchored in the bay overnight to discuss the plans for the visit. Fram moved close into Port Lockroy and held position just in front of the base to make the transfer easy for the passengers to visit.

Port Lockroy is a Historic Site run by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust who have a small dedicated team at the base through the summer months, showing visitors around the site first sighted by the German Explorer Dallman in the 1870s and named by the French explorer Charcot in 1903, whaling followed in the 1920s and 30s. 

Bransfield House was build as part of a war time operation by the British in 1944 and was subsequently run as a scientific research base until 1962. The base is as it was in the 1950s with interpretive material to help the passengers understand what it was like to live and work there as well as the important work that was undertaken.

The expedition team arrived ashore to check on conditions, it was great to see old friends, Over the years Fram has visited Port Lockroy many times and Hurtigruten have supported the works of Trust by helping with logistics of getting cargo to Port Lockroy as well as taking the occasional person to or from Ushuaia. This is where I come in, I have been helping get the new team settled in at Port Lockroy and it was time for me to head home with Fram after the visit.

The passengers started visiting and due to the size of the main building and island only 60 people could be ashore at any time, so Line the expedition leader coordinated with the ship to bring people back and for through the morning.

The buildings are surrounded by a colony of Gentoo penguins, as there is a lot of rock around the buildings the nests are far advanced and most now have 2 eggs, giving everybody the opportunity to see this advanced stage compared with other landings during the trip. Of course the penguins are just adorable and one can never take enough pictures! Port Lockroy is also home to a large number of Snowy Sheathbills who scavenge on penguin eggs, and also clean up after the penguins. During the visit about 30 birds were counted busying themselves around the island and keeping a watchful eye on any unsuspecting penguin that may leave it’s egg. Skuas also nest on the Island and keep an eye out for the same thing. An mini ecosystem at the doorstep!

Inside the base the passengers enjoyed the museum looking at the artifacts and living conditions as well as the opportunity to write and send a postcard home to friends a family. The small gift shop provides great small mementos of for people to take home as well as support the valuable work of the Trust as all the profits from the shop go directly into Antarctic Conservation projects.

With everyone back on board we sailed south through the scenic Lemaire channel, a narrow 7 mile long channel cut between Booth Island and the mainland. Peaks either side rise over 3000ft. The cliffs and occasional peak appeared through the cloud. After our transit we turned west and went through French Passage and safe route between low lying islands, we encountered bands of brash and pack ice and were lucky enough to see numerous seals from the decks including a  Leopard.

As we turned north and headed into the open seas and the motion and reflecting on the busy past week of landings, lectures and breathtaking scenery meant that the ship was quiet!

Thank you Captain, crew and all on board for your help and assistance and for taking me back to Ushuaia from this magical place.