DRYGALSKI FJORD AND GRYTVIKEN:

                                     

Early risers were on deck around 6:30am as the Fram headed into Drygalski Fjord at the south end of South Georgia Island. The people on deck faced very strong headwinds and horizontal rain as we headed up the Fjord. The steep sided walls on both sides of the channel had glaciers that conveniently calved small amounts of ice as we passed by. At the ocean end of the fjord there were larger amounts ice, as several large tabular icebergs were grounded there.

During breakfast and afterward the FRAM headed northward toward our afternoon landing at Grytviken. As we passed along the east coast of South Georgia the heavy winds continued, eventually rainbows and the sun appeared and the rain finally quit. As we approached the small bay with buildings of Grytviken at the end, the strong and gusty winds continued and our landing was delayed.    

Around 4pm the wind finally dropped enough that we could anchor off Grytviken and land at King Edward Point. Near the landing were 2 groups of King Penguins and they were mightily photographed. We were almost constantly harassed by young fur seals on our coastal walk to the museum and onward to Sir Earnest Shackleton’s grave. As we walk by, the young seals are curious and playful and like puppies or even teenagers and they try to challenge us. No doubt to determine their place in the pecking order of life. The museum provided an excellent overview of the life and times at South Georgia Island from the geologic history to the present day   

On South Georgia the reindeer and rat and mice eradication programs are underway. We saw the helicopters used to implement this program of removing the introduced species from the island. As darkness fell we returned to board the FRAM and the captain decided to stay and out present location until light tomorrow morning then move to Fortuna Bay.

                              

                                                              

GEORGIA ON OUR MIND:

Today is our second full sea day as we head northeastward toward South Georgia Island. Just like the line by Hoagy Carmichael from his song “Georgia” sung by Ray Charles, Georgia is on our minds. We are looking forward to landing tomorrow on the Island and seeing the King Penguins and to visit the old whaling station and the museum at Grytviken.

Today was filled with 8 lectures and most were directed to get us to appreciate South Georgia.

The island has an intriguing history and striking scenery. Plus we now know about the geography, geology and the productivity of the nearby waters gave rise to the krill density which provided the food for the whales.  

Our evening had a musical note. In the Observation Lounge, Myles played the piano or his ukulele and he provided the music and words for our dancing and listening enjoyment as we motored on toward Georgia. In this case it is the south end of South Georgia Island.

A SEA DAY OF LECTURES:

Here we are crossing the Scotia Sea re-tracing the course that Shackleton’s small lifeboat the James Caird steered in 1916. Shackleton and his 4 crew left the remainder of the Endurance crew on Elephant Island, 24 April and sailed for South Georgia Island. Thanks to the sterling navigation of Captain Worsley, they landed on the west side of South Georgia, on 10 May. We are having an easy time of it with a competent staff on the FRAM’s bridge and the global positioning system (GPS) to guide us. Our weather is quite calm with some fog and no problems.

Our lectures today covered the early pre-Amundsen FRAM Expeditions, Belgica Expedition, the King Penguins we will see on South Georgia and the geography and geology of South Georgia. Many of the lectures touched on the travels and trials of Shackleton and his men.  

The only part of today’s events that did not coincide with Shackleton’s sail was our evening fashion show. The colorful Norwegian sweaters and Helly-Hansen jackets were modeled (that may be stretching the meaning of the word) by the ships officers and the Expedition Staff.  

ONWARD:

Most of us were up around 5AM for our intended 6AM landing at Deception Island. But ‘mother nature’ intervened and we had to modify our plans. The strong head winds, approaching storm levels and the heavy fog, made it too risky to enter Neptunes Bellows, the narrow opening into the caldera of Deception Island. The only prudent alternative was to continue northeastward and onward toward our next landing at South Georgia Island.

  

South Georgia Island is distant as it is nearly two and a half days away. During our transit time to South Georgia and on northward we will have several sea days for the Expedition Staff to present a wide variety of lectures.

This morning Ralf lectured on the Belgica expedition. This was the first expedition to over-winter in Antarctica. Led by Adrien de Gerlache this expedition was the training ground for Roald Amundsen and Frederick Cook and as we know both of these men went on to long careers in polar exploration. Bob’s talk was built around the photographs from his 1960’s glaciology and engineering work at the South Pole and McMurdo stations.

Later in the day our lectures by Tomas and Frieda focused on the species of whales that are common in Antarctic waters. Manuel told us the untold story of Cormorants and Rudolf told us the about the scientific goals and financial costs of several national Antarctic research programs. In general operational and maintenance costs are greater than the funds spent on scientific research.

By dinnertime the navigation screen showed we were passing Elephant Island where Shackleton’s men took refuge while he and four others sailed to South Georgia Island. This evening it was too foggy to catch even a glimpse of this fabled island.

LEMAIRE, LOCKROY AND NORTHBOUND:

By breakfast time the campers and all their gear were back onboard the FRAM and we were underway through the Lemaire Channel. The early morning light and freshly fallen snow made our photos have a different glow that those we took on yesterday’s transit through the Lemaire.

Port Lockroy is always a joy. The 1960’s food and equipment make the museum a trip back in time and the shop allows us to purchase future gifts for relatives and friends. The post office also provided the opportunity mail cards to the “home- folks” even though we may arrive home before the cards are at their mailboxes. Getting from the landing site to the base building requires that we walk through a gauntlet of adult Gentoo Penguins and begging chicks.

Leaving Port Lockroy many of us were loaded down with maps, books and clothes that we purchased. The FRAM acquired a small load carpenter equipment and we will drop it off at Stanley in the Falkland Islands. The gear will remain in storage in Stanley until the 2015-2016 Antarctic summer season when it will be taken south by ship and be used to restore one or two of the old stations.

Today is clear and sunny and our route northbound follows Gerlache Strait. Picturesque is an understatement for the rocks, mountains and glaciers that border this strait. Many photographs were taken - who knows how many!

In the late afternoon came the “piece de resistance” of whale watching. While we were transiting Wilhelmina Bay we encountered many Humpback Whales, so many flukes were showing they were making a “fluke ballet”. Several groups were making bubble nets to concentrate krill. Once they had the krill concentrated, perhaps you could call it krill soup, the whales rose up through the soup gulping in as many krill as they could. Eventually the FRAM had to move on for tomorrows landing at Deception Island. We left the whales to finish their dinner while we migrated to the dining room to enjoy our dinner.

A FULL DAY AT BROWN, LEMAIRE AND PLENEAU:

Our morning landing at the Argentinian Station Brown was in clam waters with no wind. The red buildings of the station are at present unoccupied and the area around the station site has a few Gentoo Penguins, Blue-Eyed Shags and Snowy Sheathbills. 

The unique attraction at Brown is the opportunity to climb the hill behind the station and slide down. Many of us did slide down the snow channel, even though we had not been snow sliding for many 10’s of years. Others of us had the opportunity to go cruising in Polarcirkle boats and kayaks and this allowed us to get closer to Humpback Whales and several species of seals including the big leopard Seals.

After lunch we headed south through Lemaire Channel. This location is perhaps the most the photographed site of our journey.

At Pleneau Island the surface rocks have been rounded smooth by over-riding glaciers and on the rock surfaces one can see the glacial striations gouged into the rocks by boulders that were embedded in the bottom of the over-ridding glacier. Many people had a close-up view of the rocks as they climbed to the top of the island. Gentoo Penguins were nesting on the lower slopes and often there were chicks ranging from newly hatched to those that were older and rid of their down coats and now nearly fully feathered and ready for the sea. There was a single Adelie Penguin sighted among the Gentoo colony. During our landing time, the kayakers and Polarcirkle boat cruisers had a wonderful experience and close-up views of the many nearby grounded icebergs.

After dinner our camping group went ashore and set up their tents and snuggled in for a night ashore. All went well and the extra-thick mats and sleeping bags kept everyone toasty warm.       

SOUTH SHELAND ISLANDS AND OUR FIRST ANTARCTIC LANDING:

Thankfully the seas and winds decreased during the night and this morning there were no white-capped waves as enjoyed our breakfast and looked out the dining room windows. Many birds accompanied the FRAM and we saw Albatrosses, Pintado Petrels and a group of Giant Petrels dining on a penguin.

Calmer seas meant many more people up and about. The first event thing this morning was jackets and boots for those people who could not join in yesterday. The mandatory IAATO briefing was held this morning, in English, German and Chinese and everyone attended.  Following the briefing stations where set up on three deck levels to vacuum all the previously worn clothing that will worn in Antarctica. This action is required to keep foreign pests and plants for accidently being carried into and invading the Antarctic environment.

By lunchtime we could see the Shetland Islands and by 2PM we were motoring along the south side of King George Island. On the island we could see the orange buildings of several research stations. Our first Antarctic landing was to be at the crescent-shaped aptly named Half Moon Island.

This landing took place at two locations. First we landed the hikers near the Argentinian Station Camara and from the beach they hiked to several nearby ridge-tops overlooking the three volcanic knobs and connecting cobble beach ridges that make up the island. The other landing was near the old water boat on a steep beach with several fur seals. While walking the island we saw colonies of Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguins. Snowy Sheathbills and Skua Gulls are always lurking around the colonies for their next meal.

We closed the day with an Expedition Staff meeting that was also attended by the Captain and the other ships officers. We all gathered in Colin Archer’s room to celebrate and the old boy looked on as we helped Karin Strand celebrate her birthday.

THE DRAKE PASSAGE SOUTHWARD:

The FRAM is headed south to Antarctica. The winds and seas are substantial and are coming from the southwest. As a result the FRAM is pitching and rolling a bit. Nevertheless most of the passengers were up for breakfast this morning and afterward they picked up their Hurtigruten wind and waterproof jackets.

Before lunch there were briefings about optional excursions, kayaking, camping and hiking, that will be available, weather permitting, in the course of our 19 day travels to Buenos Aires.

After lunch we were fitted for the high-insulated boots we will need to wear when we do landings in the FRAM’s Polarcirkle boats. Sizes are always a bit confusing as there are European, UK, American and Chinese sizes juggle to get each person the most correct fit.

The International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO) briefing is mandatory before we are allowed to go ashore in Antarctica. This briefing was scheduled for today but as many people are ‘under the weather’ the briefing has been re-scheduled for tomorrow. Many of us will improve if the seas calm a bit during the night.