STANLEY IN THE SUN:

The FRAM encountered strong headwinds as we approached the far eastern Falkland Islands. Breakfast could have been a bit of a challenge but by now we are ‘old salts’ when it comes to food and rocking and rolling. As we approached the harbor at Stanley the swells died down and we approached the wharf. Here the Captain and bridge crew handled the ship with style and grace as even with a strong cross-wind they fitted the FRAM into the designated non-too-large dock space. By noon most of us were headed for town and fish and chips lunches. Many folks took land or air tours and some of us just walked the streets and toured museums and the monumental cathedral.

Throughout the day the sun continued to shine and the temperature was balmy compared the conditions we encountered on our days down south. While we were enjoying the good weather down here, good news came from the northern hemisphere. We learned the officers, crew and staff of the FRAM were honored by the Hurtigruten organization with the “Best Product Award.”   

By 8pm we were all back onboard the FRAM and the dock-lines were cast off and we headed for tomorrows visit to the offshore islands located east of the East Falkland’s.   

FALKLANDS SHELF AND SUN:

Through the night the winds and swells decreased and we awoke to calmer seas. This morning’s

breakfast time was well populated. Following breakfast we had several introductory lectures to life in the Falkland Islands, ancient life, that is fossils and the geology was presented as was the plant life and bird life.

Our afternoon was mainly occupied with information briefings concerning tomorrows planned activities. In addition to the newly introduced air flights there are farm tours and XXXX.

In the evening our very talented galley crew had an show in the lounge deck presenting their tricks. There were fruit roses and marzipan roses. In addition one of the Chinese guests carved a very nice Buddha sculpture out of a block of ice.

BOUNCING ALONG TO THE FALKLAND/MALVINAS:

During the night and through today until late afternoon the FRAM had a bouncy ride as we had substantial winds and significant swells from the west as we headed northwesterly toward the Falkland Islands.

Stalwart passengers were up and about and eating and attended todays lecture series. Though Antarctic is behind us today we learned a bit more about the biology of the seals and whales we have seen plus the fossil plants and animals that have been recovered from Antarctic rocks. From an Antarctic Treaty lecture we learned that Antarctica is set aside for peaceful and scientific purposes and that all national claims to Antarctic territory are set aside or “on ice” as long as the Treaty is in force.

Tomorrow is another sea-day as we continue on our way to the F/M islands.

KINGS AND CLIMBING:

Our day began shortly after 7am with gusty winds and a moderate swell at our landing site on the western side of Fortuna Bay. Once we scrambled ashore we had a walk along the beach through 100’s of playful juvenile Fur Seals and occasional King Penguins. Our walk took us to the immense King Penguin colony at the end of the bay. Here we were in the midst of 10’s of thousands of King Penguins. The birds were in all stages of life from eggs to downy brown chicks to molting juveniles getting their waterproof feathers to regal adults to molting adults.

The afternoon was split into several activities. About 60 of us went over to the eastern side of Fortuna Bay where we bypassed a large elephant seal on the way to our gathering spot to begin our climb to re-trace the Shackleton hike. This 6.5km or 4 mile hike replicates the last leg of the cross-South Georgia trek that Shackleton, Worsley and Crean accomplished after they landed their small boat the James Caird on the western side of South Georgia Island. The hike starts with a steep climb mostly over frost-fractured sharp shale then traverses a central hilly section before beginning the down-slope zip-zag trail down the long talus slope to the riverbed below. The hike reaches only about 300m or 900ft so elevation and oxygen are not the problem, it is the sharp and loose footing that requires caution. The snow has melted by this time, the late in the summer, and the shallow braided meandering riverbed is easily crossed and re-crossed until we reached the lounging fur seals near the rear of the ruins of the Stromness whaling station.

The other major activity was a series of Polarcirkle boat cruises from the FRAM that motored along just off the beaches in front of the ruins of the whaling stations at Leith, Husvik and Stromness. As the day ended the FRAM lifted the anchor and we headed for the Falkland Islands. 

DRYGALSKI FJORD AND GRYTVIKEN:

                                     

Early risers were on deck around 6:30am as the Fram headed into Drygalski Fjord at the south end of South Georgia Island. The people on deck faced very strong headwinds and horizontal rain as we headed up the Fjord. The steep sided walls on both sides of the channel had glaciers that conveniently calved small amounts of ice as we passed by. At the ocean end of the fjord there were larger amounts ice, as several large tabular icebergs were grounded there.

During breakfast and afterward the FRAM headed northward toward our afternoon landing at Grytviken. As we passed along the east coast of South Georgia the heavy winds continued, eventually rainbows and the sun appeared and the rain finally quit. As we approached the small bay with buildings of Grytviken at the end, the strong and gusty winds continued and our landing was delayed.    

Around 4pm the wind finally dropped enough that we could anchor off Grytviken and land at King Edward Point. Near the landing were 2 groups of King Penguins and they were mightily photographed. We were almost constantly harassed by young fur seals on our coastal walk to the museum and onward to Sir Earnest Shackleton’s grave. As we walk by, the young seals are curious and playful and like puppies or even teenagers and they try to challenge us. No doubt to determine their place in the pecking order of life. The museum provided an excellent overview of the life and times at South Georgia Island from the geologic history to the present day   

On South Georgia the reindeer and rat and mice eradication programs are underway. We saw the helicopters used to implement this program of removing the introduced species from the island. As darkness fell we returned to board the FRAM and the captain decided to stay and out present location until light tomorrow morning then move to Fortuna Bay.

                              

                                                              

GEORGIA ON OUR MIND:

Today is our second full sea day as we head northeastward toward South Georgia Island. Just like the line by Hoagy Carmichael from his song “Georgia” sung by Ray Charles, Georgia is on our minds. We are looking forward to landing tomorrow on the Island and seeing the King Penguins and to visit the old whaling station and the museum at Grytviken.

Today was filled with 8 lectures and most were directed to get us to appreciate South Georgia.

The island has an intriguing history and striking scenery. Plus we now know about the geography, geology and the productivity of the nearby waters gave rise to the krill density which provided the food for the whales.  

Our evening had a musical note. In the Observation Lounge, Myles played the piano or his ukulele and he provided the music and words for our dancing and listening enjoyment as we motored on toward Georgia. In this case it is the south end of South Georgia Island.

A SEA DAY OF LECTURES:

Here we are crossing the Scotia Sea re-tracing the course that Shackleton’s small lifeboat the James Caird steered in 1916. Shackleton and his 4 crew left the remainder of the Endurance crew on Elephant Island, 24 April and sailed for South Georgia Island. Thanks to the sterling navigation of Captain Worsley, they landed on the west side of South Georgia, on 10 May. We are having an easy time of it with a competent staff on the FRAM’s bridge and the global positioning system (GPS) to guide us. Our weather is quite calm with some fog and no problems.

Our lectures today covered the early pre-Amundsen FRAM Expeditions, Belgica Expedition, the King Penguins we will see on South Georgia and the geography and geology of South Georgia. Many of the lectures touched on the travels and trials of Shackleton and his men.  

The only part of today’s events that did not coincide with Shackleton’s sail was our evening fashion show. The colorful Norwegian sweaters and Helly-Hansen jackets were modeled (that may be stretching the meaning of the word) by the ships officers and the Expedition Staff.