Our first day in Norway!

Yesterday morning, Fram arrived at the first stop of this trip: the city of Stavanger. It is considered today to be the centre of Norway´s oil industry.

To introduce everyone to the facts about this industry and the role it plays in this area, our guests could attend a lecture called “Norway as a Petroleum Nation” in the morning. This lecture was followed by a Kayak briefing for those who would like to join our Kayak Adventures in the Norwegian Fjords.

Fram arrived in Stavanger at noon.

We were greeted by locals standing along the shore, some even  waving the Norwegian flag! In combination with the great weather, this made us feel very welcome in this beautiful city. As soon as the gangway was down, people went exploring the city, it's picture-perfect Gamle Stanvanger (Old Stavanger), and the peaceful Breiavatnet lake in the city centre. Even though it was Sunday, some shops were open which allowed us to do some first souvenir shopping.

Our excursions started soon after arrival and guests had the chance to choose between two tours. The Stavanger Panorama Tour took us by bus from the pier to the outskirts of the city. Stops included Hafrsfjord, where a historical sea battle was fought and the Ullandhaug Tower from where we had a bird's eye view over the city, its surrounding area and the Ryfylke Fjord. The weather was a lot better than during our last trip here so we were blessed with clear views! On the way back, the bus dropped us of in the old part of Stavanger, so we could see the more than 150 well preserved wooden houses built at the end of the 17^th century.

From there we went to the impressive Stavanger Cathedral which was built out of stone in the 12^th century by Bishop Reginald from Winchester, England.

The second tour, the Walk in the Old Quarters also took us from the pier to the old Stavanger but by foot. This allowed us to learn more details about the city itself and historical buildings on the way. Our local guide Bernt even showed us some very interesting things that barely anyone notices when walking through this city. We for example got to see a staircase exclusively built for ducks to be able to come out of the water during spring when they have chicks, who would otherwise not be able to climb on shore. Bernt also told us that when the police isn't too busy, they come to this place to escort the ducks safely across the streets! One of the stops on this walk was Stanvanger's Canning Museum where we were able to see how (for example) fish was canned and exported to over 40 countries in 1920. We even had a little tasting session at the end of our tour, which was very nice.

 The good weather and the friendly locals made this Sunday a big success. Everyone got back on board with a big smile and ready for our Dinner Buffet in IMAQ Restaurant.

Our evening consisted of sailing back and forth in the scenic 42 km long Lysefjorden. The weather was clear enough to see the two top attraction of this fjord that are also amongst the most visited tourist attractions in Norway. One is called Preikestolen.

It consists of a steep cliff which rises 604 metres (1982 feet) above the fjord with an almost flat top of approximately 25 by 25 metres (82 by 82 feet).

The other one is a boulder located in the Kjerag mountain and called Kjeragbolten. The rock itself is a 5 m³ glacial deposit wedged in the mountain's crevasse. It is a very famous photo spot for tourists.

We were all standing outside on the decks to admire the scenery with perfectly clear views and almost ideal lighting for pictures. It was a great ending to our first day in Norway and we are very much looking forward to the next ones!

What you see at sea

“Doesn't it seem to you, that the mind moves more freely in the presence of that boundless expanse, that the sight of it elevates the soul and gives rise to thoughts of the infinite and the ideal?”

These words were put in the mouth of Madame Bovary, key character in Gustave Flaubert’s novel of the same name.

It beautifully sums up what happens to your mind when you stand on the outside deck, a tea in hand, and let your gaze wander in the distance. There is no other place like the ocean.

Here, on the stretch between England and Norway, the vast expanse is punctuated quite a bit by modern time architecture of the technical kind. The North Sea is not very deep, which made her the ideal testing ground for seismic exploration in the past. And those who searched, found. A lot. So there is an astounding amount of oil rigs all around us, serviced by a large fleet of strange-looking ships, clearly built for practical purposes and not for a beauty contest for vessels. So there is a lot to see at sea.

But not only that, a fully-fletched lecture program is presented all throughout the day, and we are especially happy to welcome Prof. Julian Dowdeswell as a guest lecturer.

Have a look what you can learn in only one day:

Professor Julian Dowdeswell is the director of the renowned Scott Polar Institute in Oxford, which houses also the most comprehensive polar library on the planet. He is an expert on ice and climate and luckily has agreed to give a cycle of three presentations during this voyage, shedding a light on changes to our environment.

Olav Orheim is a well-known figure in Norway, scientifically and beyond that. Hardly any museum founded he wasn’t on the board of, he holds two titles equaling knighthood, and his knowledge about ice and exploration history is nigh unfathomable. Today he is talking about the incredible voyages of the historic ship FRAM, used by the three most sophisticated explorers of their time -  Fritjof Nansen, Otto Sverdrup, and Roald Amundsen

Katja Kern, our art historian, is specialized in the field of medieval architecture and culture, so her knowledge about Vikings and post-Viking culture and buildings are just in the right spot. Today she shares all there is to know about stave churches.

Arne Kertelhein is a passionate historian who not only has worked in many museums but feels mostly at home on expedition ships, especially in the polar areas. Today you learn about “Fjords, Trolls, and Cloudberries”, a comprehensive account of Norwegian tradition and history.

Steffen Biersack, as the geologist, probably has to deal with the longest time periods on the team. Today he gives an account on the History of planet Earth, so no less than 4.600 Million years.

So, after a wonderful day of contemplation and education, the sun sets warmly in the western skies.

A day at sea..

Off To a Great Start!

The sun greeted us upon arrival in Dover yesterday afternoon. The weather and the impressive sight of the famous white cliffs made us feel more than welcome.

We docked the harbour in the afternoon and opened the boarding gate soon afterwards for passengers to come on the ship. In the meantime, a big crane lifted the panels with the passenger´s suitcases on deck 7 from where they were distributed to the cabins by our crew.

Passengers soon joined their luggage at their cabins to begin with some organizing before heading to our Nunami bistro for a cup of tea. Then it was time for our usual mandatory safety drill outside on both sides of the ship. It was nice for our guests and crew to go back inside as it was very windy, especially on starboard side. During the drill we started sailing out of the harbour towards open sea. 

In the evening, the captain invited everybody to the Observation Lounge for a welcome toast. This was a nice way for our guests to get familiar with the staff and have an introduction to the trip. We are all very much looking forward to arriving in Norway tomorrow. 

The Ghost of Voyage Past

Bremerhaven, just after sunrise: Fram arrives at the Columbus Cruise Centre, and almost casually we make fast. At this hour people tend to talk a little less and rather hold on to their coffee mug. As many of our travellers have arranged for an early connection, the bus transfer to the train station leaves relatively soon.

And then - the trip is over. FRAM, without further ado, casts the lines and heads for the open sea, destination Dover, England.

And this is a rare thing: A ship without guests. For full 28 hours crew and staff are among themselves.

The dancefloor, full of life and laughter only a day ago, is now deserted, our only company are the cargo ships that pass by the windows on both sides of the ship.

Oh, good for you! the esteemed follower of the blog may think, a day of leisure, well-deserved. Far from it...

There are many things that need to be done but have to wait while we are running our "normal" business. Equipment needs to be counted, store-rooms need to be arranged and cleared, floors to be shampooed, excursion descriptions to be updated, and, and, and. Honestly, there is not much of a difference in terms of workload. The rhythm, however, is a gentle one, as there is no fixed schedule. As long as things will be done, they can be done at any time.

So, as a bit of a reward after job well done, there is even a staff movie night - with pizza and popcorn.

As I said - a rare thing.

Reminiscence at sea

After six days of discovering the beauty of Norway it is finally time now to turn the ship towards the south and cross the North Sea back to where we came from.

This is a time of packing, sorting pictures, exchanging eMail addresses, getting the last souvenirs and heave a sigh when standing on the outer decks and letting the gaze wander toward the horizon, still digesting the memories that have accumulated during this voyage.

But of course, this is not the only thing to do today; there is still a variety of lectures to be heard, be it about Vikings, navigation, sea level rise, herrings and the historical FRAM voyages. Fortunately the sea is calm, nobody is bothered by motion sickness, and so the lecture halls are full, full, full.

Just before lunch everybody gathers on the forward deck for a group shot, taken by our photographer, who later on shows his works in a slideshow about the whole trip.

Interesting - and nice! - to hear from many on board that this was rather supposed to be a teaser journey, and that soon the decision will be taken which itinerary is going to be next. Those who are still in doubt can take a sneak peak in Tessa’s presentation about a year’s cycle on FRAM. The modern one, this time…

Under the sinking sun we plough our way onward, taking a fine last dinner after having a Captain’s Farewell cocktail.

Bedtime comes too early, but then again tomorrow we will be arriving just after sunrise.

So, Fare Thee Well, Fram!

And certainly this is the right moment to say goodbye to our most unusual passenger - Fred. Fred is a globetrotter of the finest kind, he has been sent around the world by his team six years ago and has seen much of the world since, from the Pacific ocean to Russia, from Singapore, Arabia to Australia. Now he has joined us on FRAM to go to Norway. He is a restless fellow, so much to our dismay he couldn't stay and left us in the morning to go to another adventure. Good luck, Fred!

A goodbye to Norway

On the bright Tuesday morning of this week, MS Fram arrived at the last stop of the trip: Skudeneshavn.

At 10:00 AM our ship docked in the small harbour of this idyllic village that lies on the southernmost tip of the island of Karmøy.

Passengers were free to explore the area or join the guided walk through the old city centre. This part of the village consists of 225 wooden houses and is regarded to as one of the best preserved in Europe. In 2004, it was voted Norway's "Summer Town" by listeners to NRK´s Radio Reiseradioen programme. We had three groups with each three local guides who showed and told us everything there is to know.

The beautiful white painted houses with red roof tiles along with the great weather and a light ocean breeze made for an inspiring and peaceful walk. Many of our guests took the time to do some extra souvenir hunting in the main shopping street and send some last post cards home. 

Fram left Skudeneshavn for open sea at 18:00 PM. As in the morning, we had to fit between a very narrow passage that leads to and from the harbour and we only had a few meters to spare. As always, everything went well and locals were standing on shore to wave us goodbye!

The evening consisted of a Filipino Buffet in the IMAQ Restaurant and live music from our pianist Ralf in the Observation Lounge. We finished the night with the famous Fram Crew Show, where our crew that normally works “behind the scenes” showed their talents and impressed us with acts like traditional dances, singing and flaring with bar accessories. It was a very nice way to spend one of the last evenings together and say goodbye to Norway.

The Bright Thing in the Sky

All good things come to those who wait. After quite a few days of patience, of brave hiking and strolling in true Norwegian spring conditions, the sun comes out and bathes the landscape in golden light, underlining the wonderful colors of the Søndrefjorden, where we aim for our first destination of the day, Urnes.

There is many a stave church in Norway, but certainly this one is special. Majestically overlooking the village, it is a prime example for the most elaborated wood-carving technique of the time, which has thus been named Urnes-Style. Built in the year 1070, this dark, tar-covered masterpiece has seen Viking kings coming and going, and now many of blue-clad people are eager to get a good shot.

The backdrop of the church also invites to a little walk in the surrounding hills. What a pleasure to take in the view from high above, feel the sun on the face, and watch Nature to bring out the first blossoms. The songbirds are all excited, too, a real spring symphony. By chance we spot some snakes next to the road, obviously two males fighting for a female which is cuddled to a rock nearby. Well, springtime…

We continue our voyage, now heading west inside the enormous system of the Sognefjord, and that gives our “local” Olav the opportunity to talk about the history of the place. Twice in the medieval times a hard battle was fought to unite Norway under one king. Whereas the first took place in the Stavanger area and  was mainly about Norway’s South, the second one in 1184 was the famous battle of Fimreite, when King Sverre, with an inferior fleet, vanquished King Magnus, whose Viking warriors were numerous and heavily armored.
The latter led to their defeat, as Sverre managed to pierce some of the boats of Magnus’ fleet, causing the boats to sink and the warriors to scramble into the next boat, and so on and so on. Overloaded with heavy Vikings, the other ships also sank and most of the warriors drowned instead of being shot with arrows.

As our knowledge about all this refers solely to the Viking Saga’s we will have to account for a little lack of detail, if not accuracy. But it is a good tale, and one thing is for certain: King Sverre’s braveness united Norway on that very day.

Back to modern times. In the afternoon we arrive at Balestrand, a very pretty village in a community that bears the same name. It is derived from old Norse and means hillside behind a beach. And it

is true, right behind the village the gentle but steep Balastøylen raises its head. This is also where the afternoon hike is leading, steeply through forest and rocks, until we reach the snowline. Wonderful views from up here, in the finest of weathers!

Those who want to learn all about the art of cider making go on a different excursion, led by one of the best apple farmers in town. Of course the consumption of apple juice jumps up subsequently.

Everyone else benefits as well from the sunshine while having a stroll in Balestrand, which is bey tradition a centre of art in the Sognefjord area, and indeed there are quite

many sculptures and unusual houses here, contrasting with the beautiful old architecture, for example of the famous Balestrand hotel.

Now, what a day!

Exploring Undredal & Gudvangen

While heading towards Undredal yesterday morning, we woke up to the impressive views that the 29-kilometre long Aurlandsfjorden was offering us. This fjord is a branch of the Sognefjorden, Norway´s longest fjord and reaches depths of 962 metres below sea level. Once in Undredal, we brought everyone on shore by tender operation with our small polar circle boats. 

The weather was already a lot better than the days before as the sun rays were pushing their way through the photogenic clouds. Only a few drops of persevering rain came down during our landings yesterday. Most of the passengers discovered Norway´s third-most visited tourist attraction: The Flåm railway line. After a 20 minute bus ride they arrived at the station and boarded the train after a quick shopping spree. This train runs through the valley of Flåmsdalen and connects the mainline with Sognefjord. The line's elevation difference is 863 meters (2,831 ft); it has ten stations, twenty tunnels and one bridge. The maximum gradient is 5.5 percent (1:18) which offers exiting views offer steep cliffs down in the valley. When the train was half way, thick snow was starting to fall from the sky.

Once at the top at Myrdal, we were surrounded by four meters of snow that was still lying there from the winter. We literally were surrounded by a winter wonderland where even the famous waterfall on the left hand side of the track was entirely dry due to the cold/late spring of this year. 

In the early afternoon we sailed from Undredal into Naerofjorden, which is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005. From here we started our 6 kilometre long hike along the postal route which follows the fjord. Our guests were surprised by our Chef who made hot dogs on the way! 

At the end of the Naerofjorden we visited the village of Gudvangen. We had plenty of time to explore the area which was also the starting point of our second kayak adventure of this trip. On their way to Bakka, the small group of kayakers were able to enjoy the scenery surrounding us from a unique perspective. Once there, they visited the church before returning to the ship. 

In the beginning of the evening we sailed out of Naerofjorden again and the weather/light was a lot better then in the morning. It was very nice to stand outside on the decks to watch the landscape and take a few photos for home. 
We are very much looking forward to the rest of our trip and the ever improving weather! 

The Valley of Roses

One of the first sentences students of the Latin language learned many years ago was “Agricola rosam aspergit”, the peasant waters the rose. Knowing now that roses seem to need water, we are not overly surprised at the weather that awaits us in Rosendalen, the valley of roses, beautifully nestled in the southern Hardanger Fjord - it’s raining cats and dogs.

But who really cares? Certainly not the 120 brave guests who are headed for one of the instructive and beautiful excursions today. The longer trip went into the Folgefonna National Park to the Bondhus glacier a very pretty scion of the much larger Folgefonna glacier. The adjacent lake is picturesque and the walk in the area is stunningly beautiful.

For those who rather stick to the place Rosendal itself there is a unique project to be visited: The restauration of the ship Gurine, a sailing yacht from the late 19th century, that was mainly used for hunting purposes in the west ice.

For many years the wreckage lay dilapidated in the small town port, until the idea was born to get it going again. Now the whole village is spending lots of volunteer hours in the shipyard to make it happen, to get Gurine pretty again. And sure the pride makes them explain everything to our happy guests.

Rosendal has quite a few things to offer: Very famous is the Baronie, a manor that was built on a piece of land given as dowry from the richest landowner at the time. So splendid was the manor that it got the title of Barony, the only one in Norway.

Not far away is the old saw mill. Like in the olden days the town folks use the river to drive the mighty saw blades; and it is still fully operational, cutting floor boards and firewood on demand.

You don’t have to like rocks to fall in love with the Stone Garden of Rosendal; with great care and even greater artistic skills the sculptors created a unique resort with the most wonderful colors and shapes, all from the various rocks of the surroundings.

In the afternoon we go deeper into Hardangerfjord, and then it is time to turn and head for the longest fjord of them all, Sognefjord. 

On the way, just passing the city of Bergen, the weather clears up, and the first rays of sun hit the surface of the ocean. A bit ironic,though, as Bergen has a reputation of being one of the rainiest cities in the world…

But where there’s sun,there’s hope. So tomorrow will be a dry and beautiful day!