Whiskey Cruising!

After leaving Dover on Sunday, it was time for another sea day to Norway. Once again, we were sailing the North Sea past the oil platforms in the company of several big cargo/container vessels. The weather was in our favor again as the wind was almost absent and the sun was shining bright. Perfect conditions to spend extra time on the decks to enjoy a few drinks and gaze into the distance over the hypnotizing waves of the North Sea. Our sea day was a very informative one as we had several lectures planned during the day. Guests were able to learn many things about Norway, Polar Regions, Fram, our planet in general and our upcoming day in Bergen.

During the morning, we also had one group for a bridge visit. This is always a perfect way for people to get a better understanding of how the ship works and get a glimpse of what goes on “behind the scenes”. The captain welcomed us and started by explaining what all the big screens and buttons are for. Amongst other things, he gave us interesting facts and figures about the ship´s fuel usage and electricity production. After his introduction, guests were free to ask him all sorts of questions that he was happy to answer. Then it was time for everyone to walk around and take some pictures to show family and friends they have indeed been on the bridge of MV Fram!
The Observation Lounge was also the place to be in the evening as we had another whiskey show with tasting hosted by our two Scottish oldies Bernie and Beastie! Their passion and entertaining skills made the evening (once again) a big success and a perfect last evening for our Whiskey Cruise. In the afternoon it was time for a Norwegian delicacy in the Observation Lounge: freshly baked waffles! Our crew definitely managed to get everyone´s attention with their culinary venture as the irresistible smell was making its way through several of the decks. Staff and guests were all enjoying the waffles with whip cream and several sorts of jam while listening to live music from our musician Bjørn.

Dover - and over again

Who hasn’t seen or at least heard about the famous white cliffs of Dover…? Incredibly bright-colored they come up at our starboard side in the morning as we approach the port.

Nevertheless, it seems that our guests do not appreciate the view overly much. Well, you can’t blame them for that - they are leaving. After ten days of nature’s sheer beauty, after so many wonderful landings in amazing fjords, after hikes and fruit walks and museum visits and stave churches and boat rides and, and, and…

So many memories!

Yes, it is a sad thing to leave, but many do so with the promise to come with us to a different place in the future. That is a nice thing to hear, as it means that we managed to get people happy. 

So the atmosphere is serene when we go to pier in Dover, right opposite the old train station that was decommissioned in 1994, after the Eurotunnel was built.

Squadrons of porters take care of the luggage, and then it is time to say good-bye to our very nice and charming group.

The layover is a really short one, already at 10am the “newbies” are arriving, although the term is not fully applicable, as there are so many repeaters and quite a few agents from various offices. All in all only 64 people join us today for something very special: A Whiskey Cruise.

During the two day transfer to Bergen in Norway we travel with Bernhard McGee, a true Scotsman and professional whiskey expert. He will teach the guests everything there is to know about enjoying a very good drop the proper way.

Speaking of good drops: Having someone on board who is so proficient with high energy spirits calls for a check-up on our latest liquor project - the FRAM adventure calvados. October last year we visited the town of Brest on the Brittany coast of western France, and we hauled a huge barrel of the finest calvados from Normandy on deck, where it started a journey that no other calvados has ever undertaken: Only after the barrel has crossed the four lines - both Polar Circles, the Equator and 80 degrees North - will we start to sell our Expedition Calvados, which by then is certainly among the most exclusive brown liquids in the world.

To ensure the quality of it we take a sample which is then entrusted to Bernard McGee and his infallible nose. We are curious what he has to say about it.

The weather is treating us extremely well, the ocean is flat calm, and with great expectations and not the slightest bit of sea sickness everybody assembles in the panorama lounge to Bernie’s first round of whisky workshop.
It is safe to say that whisky is many people's friend. It is a rare occasion, however, that a barrel of 25-year-old Highland Single Malt is waltzing around the ship on its own two (quite long) legs, befriending our guests in a very personal way - but this is exactly what happened.

Sailing The North Sea

Our day at sea started with a few Bridge Visits on deck 6. Guests were able to sign up and meet us in groups so we could visit the Bridge and ask the captain all sorts of questions. It is a very interesting experience and a unique chance to get a look "behind the scenes".

 
Our extended lecture program gave everyone the opportunity to learn about the principles of navigation, the North Pole, the Fram, the Norwegian outdoor life, and a lecture from our guest professor lecturer entitled "Beneath the Waves".
On our way to Dover we sailed passed dozens of big oil rigs and wind mills. The North Sea obviously still has plenty of available resources like fossil fuels, wind and wave power. 
The captain also held a farewell cocktail in the Observation Lounge as it was our last day on this trip. After a toast, we all sang a song together which is always a very nice way to end the trip together.

After a last dinner in our restaurant, it was time for some last packing, maybe a drink in the Qilak bar and off to bed. After all, tomorrow we will be in Dover where it is a new start for both the passengers and the crew!

Dressed in White (or how the German Navy got Foghorns...)

We have spent many days inside the looming shelters of the most spectacular fjords of Norway. One of the agreeable side effects was the calmness of the waters; you could literally play a round of mikado any time you liked.

Well, last night we had a long stretch to take along the outside of the Norwegian coastline, and the difference is quite noticeable, things are moving, people are swaying. But then again, this is a ship, isn’t it…?

In the morning we take a spectacular left turn around Karmøy Island through a narrow passage in order to get to our destination, Skudeneshavn. The ice age-rounded rocks are sticking out of the water on both sides of FRAM, crowned by cute white houses, whose owners can look right onto our breakfast tables.

And on the outside of this impossible passage sit the lighthouses, of paramount importance in the olden days to guide the vessels into the safe embrace of Skudeneshavn.

Today these lighthouses have lost their significance, some of them are even privately owned as a homestead. This is probably the pinnacle of a home with ocean view.

Under the morning sun but with a fresh breeze we go to pier, ready for the last set of excursions.

Named after a certain type of sailboat, the village of Skudeneshavn made it to considerable fame in the times of the great herring catch. Fishermen came not only from Norway but from all over the world, and they gave their cultural input to the otherwise plain white wooden architecture of the place.

Whereas the modern city of Skudeneshavn has about 3200 inhabitants, including the new built city quarters that didn’t exist at the time, every peak season in the early 19th century saw over 40.000 men arriving, creating a huge lodging problem. Nevertheless, the industry yielded so much money that people were willing to endure all kinds of hardship for it.

Today the old town of Skudeneshavn is the best preserved historical town of Norway, a bright white gem with narrow alleys and adjacent wharfside warehouses. It is even a special occasion today on the 8th of May. Norway celebrates Liberation Day, commemorating the end of the Nazi oppression, so there is Norwegian flags all over the place.

Even the word picturesque needs to be stretched to its extreme if you ever try to describe the peaceful, film-like, romantic atmosphere of this place, with the neat gardens, the cosy coffee shops, and the artistic carvings on doors and fences.

The people of Skudeneshavn are proud of their heritage and more than happy to answer questions or help to reenact the olden days. 

Original stories have happened indeed: On one of his many visits to the country of his heart, Norway, the German Emperor Wilhelm encountered a man in Skudeneshavn who just made a funny invention: Ole Christian Hansen made strange tubes out of metal that could produce an enormously loud, deep sound - he had invented the foghorn. The Emperor was so impressed by that and saw immediately the military use for it. On the spot he ordered 40000 horns for the German Navy, quite a tall order for a happy Mr. Hansen…

The visit continues. And what can I say? The weather is really doing its best to underline the pretty features of the place; after a short, biting hailstorm in the morning the sun comes out and shines through the washed air of the island of Karmøy, bringing out all the beauty of the place.

The Mælandsgården Museum looks rather small from the outside, but it is a true treasure trove, curated with the people’s full heart, in order to really bringing the past times as alive as they can be.

After a comfortable, beautiful day in paradise it is time to get back on the ship - unfortunately, as this was the last visited place of our journey.

Good thing that the weather is not intending to make our lives more difficult than necessary, so FRAM is moving only a little. That allows for the evening program to take place as planned. The Expedition Team gathers in the observation lounge, ready to answer all possible questions that have accumulated during the trip, and the evening sees the current version of the famous MV FRAM crew show, which is well attended.

How to "Friluftsliv" in Norway!

On the (very) early morning of Thursday, many of us were already out on the decks to enjoy the fresh air and admire the 229 meter high Feigumfossen on the southern side of the Lusterfjord.

A very eventful and sportive day was awaiting us in Urnes/Luster and Balestrand. A day filled with outdoor activities in close contact with nature, which the Norwegians would describe as a Friluftsliv day (an "outdoorlife" day). This started with a Kayak Adventure in the morning and a (somewhat) a challenging walk up to the Stave church in Urnes.

This is Norway´s oldest and best preserved stave church which still stands in its original location that offers impressive views over the village and the Lustrafjord that surrounds it. Those who joined our excursion were welcomed inside the church for a "guided tour" and were allowed to take a few pictures. Guests could also have a look inside the visitors centre that is located nearby. The 5 snakes we saw last week on the little wall not far behind the church were hiding amongst the rocks to keep warm. The sun was not as present yesterday as the week before so they did not come out as much to warm up their bodies. Only a few of us have seen the female snake that the two males were fighting for last week.

Fram arrived in Balestrand in the afternoon and we soon started our tender operations to bring everyone on the pier where we served local cheese Gamelost (old cheese) for an hour. This was also the place where two of our excursions started: The Cultural Village Walk with the Cider House and the hike in Balestrand mountains. The village walk took guests to some of the beautiful villas that the artists built here and to the Kvikne Hotel, which is Norway´s largest wooden building.

The tour also went to St. Olav´s Church, which was completed in 1897 and is more or less a copy of the Norwegian Stave churches from the Viking age.

The hike up in the mountains was not as easy as our regular hiking excursions. The track up on Balestrand´s most painted Esefjellet mountains is for adventurous people who like a challenge and the breathtaking views from the top as a reward. The winding path in the forest and the physical challenge really made us experience the Friluftsliv!
The afternoon was also perfect for an other Kayak Adventure which really put the large cliffs next to the fjord into perspective. The way back was quite challenging as the wind and the currents had picked up and pushed us back the wrong way.

During the evening, Noel, Michael and Nestor from the galley entertained us in the Panorama Lounge with a show where they carved fruit, decorated cakes with marzipan and folded napkins in the shapes of flowers and swans!

An interesting ending to a very successful day. Remember everybody, go outdoors, breath the fresh air and challenge yourselves! Live a Friluftsliv life!     

The Prettiest Place in the World

During the night we had the Changing of - no, not the guards (although this springs to mind immediately as most of our guests are British) - Fjord.

Although Hardangerfjord is huge, it is clearly beaten by the Sognefjord, the second largest in the world. No less than 204 kilometers it cuts into the land, through very hard rock. Gives you a fairly good idea about the power of ice.

Not only it is the longest, it has also some of the prettiest branches of them all. Several times this area has been declared the most attractive travel destination of the planet by the National Geographic Magazine. They should know.

Today is dedicated to two of them. The morning finds us hovering in front of Undredal, the “lower dale”. Funnily enough the word could also be translated into the “valley of miracles” (undre = to wonder). And in fact, something marvelous happened here, when a French lady married her Norwegian husband, moved to this place and applied all the knowledge of her country into the production of goat cheese, which already was a local speciality. So now the best of two worlds meet here in this tiny village; it is probably the best cheese money can buy in Norway.

Undredal is also the departure point for one of the most spectacular train rides in the world, the Flåmbana.

Who would think of building a train station at the very end of a deep, steep fjord…?! Well, it worked out so far, assuming you are able to make your track climb by nearly 900 meters over a mere 20 kilometers, resulting in a slope 1:18.

The construction was a smart move, as the very important Sognefjord region got connected with the Oslo-Bergen railway that stops at the top station of the Flåm rail, Myrdal. So today we let the valleys glide by the big windows, take some good images at Kjøsfossen, the waterfall that will be strong and mighty as soon as the enormous amounts of snow have melted, and wonder about the contrast between the thick snow cover up in Myrdal and the blossoming flowers down in Flåm.

While the train riders are firing their cameras non-stop, FRAM takes a gentle left turn into probably the most scenic fjord of Norway, the Nærøyfjord. 1600 meters of looming rock walls on either side, sometimes as narrow as 250 only, this is a breathtaking sight.

Although totally remote and beautifully forlorn, this place played an important role in the past, when Norwegian mail was a thing of hand-to-hand delivery, horses, carriages, and a lot of patience.

Along the southern shore of the fjord lay the Royal Post Road, a system which involved the local farmers and finally brought the mail all the way to Bergen. Not many people could read or write, and the fee was very expensive, so there was not overly much mail to be transported, but as the fjord was one of the rare ice-free spots beyond the farm of Styvi it was of grand importance.

A group of hikers is getting dropped right there at this farm, in order to take the six kilometer long walk on the Royal Road. No postcards are delivered, but a lot of sighs are heaved at the overwhelming beauty of the hike. There’s even a little surprise, as we come around the corner towards the end of it: Our chef Eirik has prepared a little campfire for us and is frying hot dogs for everyone. Good man!

Later on we all meet in Gudvangen, swap stories and images, buy souvenirs, and suddenly notice how hungry we are. And here comes the best part: In this overwhelming scenario we have a BBQ on deck, right under the waterfalls of the Nærøyfjord. Mindboggling! What’s left of the day we spend relaxing in the panorama lounge with the gentle music of our pianist Bjorn.

Another day in paradise.