An eventful day at Monacobreen and Mushamn

For some of us this day started very early. In the night, at around 04.00 we woke up to the announcment: Polar bear on the shore! Since this was the first polar bear we have spotted so far, many of us were eager to get on the deck and have a look.

In the morning we arrived Monacobreen in Lieftefjorden. Monacobreen has a magnificent glacier front and most of us went ice cruising with polar circle boats closer to the glacier front. We even saw calvings! Some of us went on top to Ringertzfjellet, a 630 meter high climb, while others went kayaking to Idabreen.

In the afternoon we arrived at Mushamna in Raudfjorden. A quite new trappers cabin is situated where we had the landing. The expedition team told us the stories behind the place, and this cabin was quite luxurious compared to most of the other trapper cabins we have seen. It even had its own sauna! While most of us did the landing on Mushamna, a few of us went with polar circle boats up to Gråhuken, where Christiane Ritter overwintered when she wrote her famous book “a woman in the polar night”.

Ny Ålesund and Magdalenafjord

In our second day 

of this trip we visited Ny Alesund a small and perhaps the northernmost settlement in the world only about 1231 km from the North Pole.  Started as a mining settlement and now it is a small research community.  The land and infrastructure is owned by Kings Bay Company a former mining Company that manages the area.  The first bits of coal were found in 1610 by Jonas Poole an English whaler and the coal activity was from about 1916 until the 1960´s.  Ny Alesund gain notoriety and fame in the 1920´s through the dramatic flight attempts to the North Pole with Admusen and Nobile as a center piece.

Our afternoon visit was Magdalenafjord a place with beautiful scenery, the fiord cut in for about 10 km into the coast and about 3 km wide a glacier named Waggonwaybreen, can be found at the end and large peaks around the highest peak is about 1000 m.  We landed in Graveneset on Trinity Harbor a place that in the 1500´s was a whaling station and a seaman cemetery. On Gravneset there is a wery nice, white sand beach, and the toughest passengers went for a swim in the ice cold waters!

Expedition: Circumnavigation Spitsbergen, day 1

We were an excited group who met on the pier to board the Fram 04.00 pm this day. We are going on a 7-days long voyage, and we will on this cruise attempt to circumnavigate Spitsbergen! We started our journey in Longyearbyen, the “capital” and the largest society on Svalbard, with around 2000 residents. 

Our first destination on the voyage was Barentsburg, the second largest society on Svalbard with 400 residents. We reached Barentsburg at around 08.00 pm, where we had a guided tour around the city, and enjoyed a fantastic music and dancing show put together by the local people. It was a nice night, and as we were sailing we could enjoy the beatiful scenery and nature in Isfjorden.

After leaving Barentsburg we set sails to the north, and tomorrow we will reach Ny-Ålesund in the morning, and with that we will have covered all the three societies existing on Svalbard.

Exploring Northern Spitsbergen

Today we made two landings in the northern fjords that indent the north facing coast of the island of Spitsbergen. Our first stop was at southern end of fjord named Liefdefforden. Here the FRAM anchored and we divided into three groups. The hardiest of us joined the substantial hike that climbed more than 625m or 2062ft to the top of a peak just west of our anchoring site. The intermediate group went kayaking for 3 hours along the coast of the fjord. The remainders, those who preferred an easier start to their day, were able to cruise and enjoy the area from the comfortable seats in the 10 passenger Polarcirkle boats. We cruised past the front of the large glacier that discharges into the fjord. This glacier, Monacobreen, is named after Duke Albert I of Monaco. The Duke mapped this area in 1906/1907 on one of his many expeditions to Spitsbergen. It is the second largest glacier in Svalbard and the area is noted for its beauty. The Duke later became the Prince of Monaco and the current prince is a direct descendent.

 

Our second landing was at a smaller fjord named Bockfjorden. As the sunny afternoon evolved into a sunny evening we went ashore and climbed a bit to one sites of the hot springs. At this site, today, the hot springs were barely a trickle though the whitish calcite rocks around the small dome suggested that at times the springs must be more active with a larger outflow of geothermal calcite rich water. No matter as geologically this site is important it is the most recent volcanic activity known in Svalbard.      

 

Our dinner was later this evening but as we finished dessert, beluga whales 

started blowing and breaching and we could see them from the dining room windows.

The evening closed with a drive-by of Moffen. This islet is just north of 80° North Latitude and is the northernmost point most of us have ever reached. The islet has a large orange navigation marker and around this marker were many walrus. The big animals were so closely packed that from the FRAM we could not tell if there were 25 or more than 50 animals.   

Svalbard, Spitsbergen and Ny Alesund

Understanding the name of this group of islands requires an explanation .The credited discoverer is Wilhelm Barents. In 1596 he named this group of islands Spitsbergen because of the jagged mountain peaks he sighted along the western coast. The island group was recognized as an archipelago and came under Norwegian sovereignty in 1925. The Norwegians re-named the archipelago as Svalbard, with the name Spitsbergen then restricted to the largest island of the group.

The day began with the last of our bridge visits and then we had a few lectures. Tessa presented Spitsbergen through the four seasons and Steffen opened us to a wider view asking: Are We Ruining the World. Later Bob covered the range of acceptance for global warming and or climate change. We recognize that the views range from complete rejection to acknowledgement of a fractional human role in the change to people who believe every sensational headline in the popular press. Tomorrow we will gather in the Panorama Lounge for discussion session on this topic and we will have the opportunity to express our individual views.

Our afternoon landing at Ny Alesund could not have been more pleasant. On our approach we saw a mother polar bear and her cub swimming across the fjord. On land the temperature was about 9°C or 48°F and though overcast there was no wind. It was a comfortable walk to see the nesting terns and geese and view the historic houses and the newer research buildings. Formerly Ny Alesund was a mining town but the mines closed over 50 years ago and now it is a polar research center. Over half a dozen nations have scientific stations here. To encourage scientific interaction and communication there is a single dining hall where the scientists gather for all their meals. Year round research is focused on the high atmosphere, the aurora phenomena and satellite orbit tracking. Closer to the ground geological and glaciological investigations are conducted during the summers.

Our evening entertainment was a skit explaining the origin and travels of the rare FRAM whisky. This whisky has traveled from the Arctic to the Antarctic several times and only a few bottles remain for sale.     

   

A sea day and lectures

Today, the 16^th of July, we awoke to calm seas with cooler and cloudy weather. This was a full sea day, as we sail towards the Norwegian owned Arctic Island of Jan Mayen.

We crossed the Arctic Circle yesterday evening and today King Neptune greeted us onboard for our polar baptism! This was an ice cold, but refreshing experience.  The Captain and King Neptune had the joy of baptizing us by pouring icy water down our necks. There are some new crew members on board for this trip, and we were given very special treatment as we were showered with half a bucket of icy slush. The toughest of us even came back several times for the baptism! Brrrr…

Starting in the morning we had the mandatory and serious lectures with information from Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO). These lectures covered safety and behavior in Arctic areas. Later in the day, we had lectures regarding Jan Mayen Island and its weather station plus some photos of the volcano eruption.

Today was also the start of our children’s program and we had 2 events. The first was a trip to the bridge where the Captain explained the operation of the ships propellers and the steering system. The second event was a behind the scenes tour of the FRAM with our guide Uncle Bob. U.B. as he is known, showed us the Polarcirkle Boats that will take us to the islands then the ships storerooms, his cabin and our last stop was the ships jail. But there were no prisoners, just racks of outdoor clothing for the Expedition Staff.   

In the evening it was showtime at the panorama deck. Some of the crew and the expedition staff were models at our fashion show, where they showed off the clothes we have in the shop on board.

JAN MAYEN SHOWS US A GREAT DAY

As we were having breakfast, we arrived at the Norwegian Island of Jan Mayen. The FRAM anchored and we went landed at a black volcanic sand beach. About a 10 minute walk up the dirt road we found the station buildings. The main purpose of the station is to maintain the radio-navigation systems that have transmitters on the Island. In addition ornithologists and geologists also conduct research on the island.

Inside the main building we found a museum with photographs and artifacts for the whaling days to current times. The building also contained a small shop with maps and t-shirts for sale. There were also postcards and stamps for sale and many of us wrote cards and posted them to friends and relatives. We were told the next outgoing plane flight, with mail, would be in early August and most of us will be home before the cards reach their destination.

During most of our time ashore it was windy with light rain and low clouds. These conditions made photography challenging. As we returned to the FRAM the sun began to burn through the clouds a bit and as the FRAM headed northward along the southeast facing coast the clouds thinned and often parted. These conditions gave us a clear view of the coastal lava beds and the glaciers that descend from Beerenberg. This volcanic, glacier covered mountain, has a crater at its peak and the highest point on the crater is 2277m or 7514ft high. The Captain kindly motored the FRAM along the coast and around the northernmost tip and this course allowed Uli our geologist and Olav our glaciologist to explain the features we were seeing. Olav was particularly enthused as he had worked on Beerenberg soon after the large eruption in 1970.

Eventually we had to leave the peak and Jan Mayen behind as the FRAM set course for Spitsbergen and we expect to arrive there in the afternoon, the day after tomorrow.   

Isafjordur, Iceland on an overcast day

On our morning arrival in Isafjordur we had temperatures of about 9°C or 48°F and a strong breeze and overcast skies. That did not preclude us from seeing the town and hiking and some of us even went horseback riding. The highlight of the hiking was the group of our kid passengers who literally ran up the steep slope from the highway to the edge of the Troll’s Throne. In Icelandic tradition the Troll’s Throne was formed when a large female troll sat and rested. From a geologic perspective the Trolls Throne was formed by a relatively small side or hanging glacier that flowed into the much larger glacier that once occupied the now large fjord valley where the town of Isafjordur is located.    

The center of town was an easy walk from the dock where the FRAM was tied up. The city streets and buildings were all neat, tidy and often brightly painted. There were small flower beds along the roadside and these colors added to our enjoyment. But the most spectacular was the typical Icelandinc nature which Isafjordur is surrounded by, with steep mountains, green hills and waterfalls.

The evening highlight was about 2030 or 8:30 pm when the announcement was made that the FRAM was crossing the Arctic Circle at 66° 33´ 39´´North latitude. Tomorrow we suspect King Neptune will show up on the FRAM. 

Boarding in Reykjavik

We came to the FRAM carrying 17 different passport. Some of us had short flights and only a few hours of time changes, while others traveled more than half around the globe and had more time changes than we could count.

Overcast skies and light rain greeted us at the dock. Onboard the FRAM we signed in and received our room assignments and keys. Once we located our rooms and found our luggage outside the room our anxiety started to diminish and fatigue set in. But we made it to the mandatory safety drill and dinner and the Captains “Welcome Aboard” ceremony where the Captain introduced the ships principal department heads. 

After that the Hotel Manager discussed several procedures to insure a healthy and trouble-free trip and the Expedition Staff Leader presented her staff and discussed how they will take us ashore at various locations, keep an eye on our safety and on sea-days the Expedition Staff provide numerous lectures largely stressing “Climate Change” as that is the title of this trip from Reykjavik to Longyearben in Spitsbergen.

SEADAYS AND ICELAND:

BLOG-12, 13 & 14 JULY 2015

This blog is a summary of our 2 day travels in Denmark Strait as we continued our crossing  from Southern Greenland to Iceland and our arrival in Iceland.

Our sea days on the 12^th and 13^th were additional catch-up” days. Along the Greenland Coast we commonly had both a morning and afternoon visits to the local villages and historic sites. During the 2 days of our transit across Denmark Strait to Iceland our days were filled with lectures and bridge visits.

Lectures covered whales and seals and ice and geology. On the bridge the ships officers explained the ships engine power system and the ships desalinization system as this last system provides more than adequate amounts of fresh water for the galley the laundry and showers and more than enough for all 209 of us plus the ship’s crew and the Expedition Staff.

The evening of the 12^th we were treated by the ship’s crew to their Crew Show. Both the passengers and the Expedition Staff truly appreciated these wonderful shows and to be honest we have no idea how and when the crew members find time to practice for this show. The crew members are always working whether on-deck, in the restaurant or driving our Polarcirkle boats.

On the afternoon of the 13^th we all gathered in the Observation Lounge to have the Captain’s Farewell cocktail. This event was two directional as not only did the Captain and crew sing and wish us a safe ride home. In return we all applauded and wished the Captain well, as this trip completes his duty onboard the FRAM and he is retiring on our arrival in Reykjavik. After the good-by and retirement ceremony the FRAM charity auction was held. The ships flag, the

navigation chart and the Captains personal notes were on the auction block. The bidding was competitive and they went to happy passengers and the funds raised went to the Charity Fund for Greenland Children.  

Later in the afternoon we arrived in Grundarfjordor. There was slight sprinkles of rain but this did not deter our walking, exploring and touring. This was the first cloudy and rain we have had on this nearly perfect weather trip. The evening of the 13^th was a quiet one as everyone retreated to their cabin to pack their clothes and purchased goodies for the flight home.

During the night of the 13^th the FRAM motored from Grundarfjordor to Reykjavik and we expect to dock at 0800 or 8am and be on our way home.

CAPE FARVEL AND NORTHEAST-WARD

After last nights dinner we sailed south along the west coast of Greenland and by breakfast time today the FRAM was off Cape Farvel the southern tip of Greenland. We had calm seas and in the distance we could see the peaks that mark the Cape. After rounding the Cape the Captain set our course to the northeast, about 60° true and we are on our way to Iceland.

Today is a busy day onboard as there are both bridge tours and lectures. On the bridge the ships officers explain the navigation screens and the ships internal safety systems, notably the innumerable smoke and fire detectors that are located in every cabin and throughout the ships common areas.

Since we boarded the FRAM, most days we have had two landings each day. As a result we have been shortchanged on lectures. Today makes up for that lack of information. For example both the Arctic and Antarctic play a large role in FRAM’s travels. For our English speaking passengers, Bob talked about his experiences as a glaciologist first at the South Pole then at Camp Century below the Greenland icecap. Frieda gave us an overview of the similarities and differences between the Arctic and the Antarctic. She discussed both the human cultural differences plus the plant and animal life. These two lecturers returned in the afternoon and Bob talked about the geo-political claims in the Arctic Ocean and Frieda talked about the cultural changes in Greenland from a hunting society to a commercial fisheries nation.

For our German speaking passengers Rudolf explained the ecological food pyramid in the Arctic and Uli provided a glaciology lecture on ice and sea-ice. Tomasz gave an introduction to the types of whales that may be encountered in Greenland and Iceland waters.

Relatively smooth motoring all day today as we continue towards Iecland.