Friday, 25 September 2015

80 degrees North!

80 degrees North!

We woke up to herd of walrus at the island Moffen at 80 degrees North. Only 1111km separate us from the North Pole at this point!

There we turned south again cruising through the beautiful islands of North-West Spitzbergen on a wonderful autumn afternoon, we even had a few snowflakes on the way to smeerenburg. Another colony of walrus greeted us at this old whaling station and we dropped off the two polar circle boats, which went on cruise on their own looking at Virgohamna, the place where Andrè started his balloon expedition. And we also get our Muck boot rental shop running.


The Fram continued on into Magdalenefjorden, one of the most scenic and famous fjords on all of Svalbard, where we did our first landing of the trip. Gravneset, another ancient place where whalers lived and worked has one of the biggest graveyards on Spitzbergen with more than 100 graves. A nice walk took us from landing site to one of the glacier fronts, while the more adventurous went on a Kayak trip.









Thursday, 24 September 2015

First day of the trip

24.09.15

First day of the trip!

Everybody on board!






 After the safety drill



While having a wonderful lunch


we start cruising the icefjord direction North towards Moffen in beautiful weather.






The capatin and crew welcome all the passengers on board the ship with a nice cocktail:



Before we even finished introducing the expedition team, we already have our first wildlife sighting: A big, fat, lazy walrus:


Tuesday, 22 September 2015

Sea day!

Day 13 22.09.2015

A day in the name of learning.
Finally, on the third attempt we could start the day with bridge visits. All the other days the officers had to focus fully on maneuvering the ship through the ice.
As we were crossing the Barentz Sea, we had a lot of lectures about the wildlife of the Arctic, about the Sirius Dogsled Patrol, about Ice and would eventually watch a documentary.
Inspired by our crew, we had Phillipino dinner buffet and the crew show.
Last but not least we auctioned an Icelandic flag, the ships flag with all officers and expedition team members signature and the sea charts of this journey from the Vikings of Iceland to the Inuit of Greenland and further to the trappers of Svalbard.











Monday, 21 September 2015

A day in the Ice

Day 12 21.09.2015

A day in the ice.
We did not get far during the night and our course had a trend southwards. We got caught in a pack ice belt that stretched from far north to the south from our position and fog prevented us from seeing much wildlife. The bridge was working hard to find a way through it all day while it was a calm day of lectures and relaxing for us.
We learned about Nansens first ice cap crossing, the northern lights, Eriks time in the Sirius Patrol and many more things. It was not a boring day for sure. We could almost imagine how it must have been 400 years ago to travel these waters in wooden boats, heading into unknown areas. Many followed the development of our route on the navigation chart screens, as our movement through the ice was much alike the pattern a housefly would draw on a windowglass.
Lastly we found a way through the belt and could accelerate out into open waters. Svalbard, we are coming!







Sunday, 20 September 2015

Dødemandsbugten - "Dead mans bay"

Day 11 20.09.2015

We made it!
There was some ice to fight in the night but we made it in time to Dødemandsbugten at the south coast of Clavering Ø. It would be our last landing in NE Greenland. We set the big polar circle boats to water for some ice floe cruising and then started the normal landing. It turned out to be a beautiful little place literally full of history.
There were remains of over 40 Eskimo houses, graves and meat stashes. Evidence of a long gone culture of some of the probably most hardy indigenous people. They came originally from Canada through northern Greenland down the East coast.
On top of that we found traces of more recent history. Iron barrels filled with rocks formed machine gun nests, some empty round shells spread around and bullet holes in the metal. A little hut is standing close to the beach and all sorts of old ironware in front of it. We are looking at the remains of the old headquarters of the Sirius Dogsled patrol from the year 1943. There was never war acts carried out at this very place, but soldiers used it for training.
Later in the day we were heading into the ice towards Svalbard again. In the evening we even got a female polar bear with a cub to see. There was some blood around on the floe, as they were just eating seal. Taking pictures was a difficult task though, as it was raining close to 0 degrees centigrade and the light was low. It was nice to watch anyways.