78 North

In the year 1596 a very daring Dutch merchant by the name of Willem Barents arrived at a cragged coastline after a long voyage and named it Spitsbergen, the Pointy Mountains. One of the northernmost places people ever had set foot upon at the time.

Well, yes, it’s a little different today, coming in by plane from Oslo or Düsseldorf after only a few hours, but still we should not forget: Our trip begins at an incredible high latitude, 78 degrees North. Not so much left between us and the North Pole. No wonder everyone was excited, lots of smiles and happy faces during check-in, jacket reception and sign-up for the first excursions. 78 North...
And this is only where it starts: After a stop in the eccentric town of Barentsburg, where we get a Russian guided tour through remains of the Sowjet era and a veritable Balalaika dance show, we will set course further north and only stop when we reach the ice edge. Maybe 80 North, maybe even higher. Let’s find out!

It is a long day for all, but that doesn't seem to bother anyone. They are out here for adventure, traveled to the realm of the Polar Bear! Which - as usual - we cannot guarantee or promise. But we will try our best to find them.

That we can promise…

This Trip Was A 10/10

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Usually there is a wistful nostalgic air to the last landing of any voyage.  I didn’t detect that same feeling today.  I think it is because this has been an outstanding trip.  For a trip in Spitsbergen I give it a ten out of ten.  We have had superlative weather.  We have had the coolest of wildlife experiences (don’t forget those Blues baby)! 

Siselman Hut at Alkehornet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

We have gone on long hikes featuring glaciers and breath taking scenery.  Many people went kayaking.  We have gone cruising in the PC Boats in the pack ice.  We were treated to a feast of lectures.  We have been pampered on board the ship with fine food and amenities like the sauna, jacuzzi and gym.  I think people are satiated. Their quest for adventure at least partially quenched.  Don’t get me wrong.  If we announced one more landing everyone would be lined up.  I have no doubt of that.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

This morning we had a nice long landing at Alkehornet.  There is a large Black-legged Kittiwake colony on the face of a lofty horn-like cliff.  There is usually a herd of Reindeer grazing on the lush grassy plain and today was no different.  There was also a pair of Arctic Skuas making sure no one strayed too close to their wandering chick. 

Photo © Morten Hilmer

At Alkehornet there is a huge amount of space for people to walk about and it was nice to see people taking advantage of that. All told it was a four and a half hour landing.  We started at 09:30 and finished at 14:00.

For the remainder of the afternoon we indulged in some scenic ship cruising and hosted several lectures.  At 17:00 we joined the Captain in the Observation lounge for his farewell speech which was immediately followed by Fram’s charity Auction to raise money for Polar Bear research.

All in all a full day, a full trip.

The Expedition Team!!!
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Burgerbukta and Brepollen, Svalbard

Burgerbukta
Photo © Morten Hilmer

We awoke to an announcement by the captain saying: “The skies are lifting and we are approaching Hornsund, Goodmorning!” As we ate our breakfeast the clouds lifted and we began making ready for the excursions of the day in the gorgeous fjord called Hornsund.

Kayaking in Burgerbukta
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Some chose kayaking and some the glacier walk, both activities were an absolute success.

Glacier Trek at Burgerbukta
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Both groups could see each other, gazing in awe at the fjord from two separate perspectives. 

Polar Bear and People Tracks
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Then we had a Fram cruise in and about “Brepollen (The miriade of Glaciers) while we enjoyed a delicious lunch barbecue out on deck 7. The food was splendid and the surrounding landscapes were an absolute delight to witness. 

As I write this we are preparing for tonight’s fashion show, where all the officers and expedition staff will act as models in front of the guests of the ship. After that the crew has a great show in store for the passengers.

The Magnificent MV Fram Crew Show!
Photo © Morten Hilmer

The Magnificent MV Fram Crew Show!
Photo © Morten Hilmer

All in all - another unforgettable day here at Fram. 

A Family Of Four Arctic Foxes

We had a more leisurely start to our day. It was a pleasure to sleep in just a tad.  After all,  we are on holiday. During breakfast we cruised slowly down the channel between Edgeøya and Barentsøya Islands towards our landing at Kapp Lee on Edgeøya.  We weren’t scheduled to land until 10:00 so that meant we could linger over a second or in my case, a third cup of coffee.

The beach at Kapp Lee is well known as a favoured Walrus haul-out site but as we hit the beach we could see that there weren’t any toothy pinnipeds lounging about at water’s edge.  Too bad, but we had seen many Walrus already and unknown to us this landing was to hold yet other wildlife wonders.

At 10:30 a group of ambitious hikers set off to climb to the very impressive cliff-tops of Kapp Lee. 

Photo © Morten Hilmer

The Expedition Team marked the preferred trail from the landing site and cautioned everyone of the necessity to stay strictly, exactly, precisely, absolutely-follow-in-one-another’s-footsteps on the flagged trail. 

Photo © Morten Hilmer

There was a very real danger of getting stuck in deep, sucking mud and to not be able to extricate oneself.   

It happens every time we visit Kapp Lee.  Some people just don’t seem to believe us until they are stuck in the mud up to their knees.  We know from experience that there are several pairs of boots preserved forever under the mud.  But today was different.  Today was the first time that no one got stuck! This summer has been quite dry and while there were plenty of muddy areas, they were in general easy to avoid.  To tell you the truth I was rather half hoping that someone would get stuck in the mud because those events are much more fun to write about.  :)

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Anyway, back to the hikers and the landing in general.  There were Reindeer foraging widely over the grassy slopes of Kapp Lee.  Just about everyone got close looks at the majestic Arctic ungulates.  They were already sporting impressive racks still covered in a fine velvet.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Not far from the landing site we encountered a family of four Arctic Foxes.  The young kits were particularly fun to watch as they cavorted with one another and gnawed on bones from a recent fresh kill.  

Photo © Morten Hilmer

The vixen and reynard also engaged in playful activity and occasionally lifted their tails to spray the area marking their territory.  It was certainly one the best sightings of Arctic foxes possible.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

By 14:00 everyone was back on Fram.  We scheduled several lectures for the afternoon.  There was ample time to attend a lecture or visit the gym, or luxuriate in the sauna, or jacuzzi.

At 21:45 we were all invited to the Observation Lounge where some of the ship’s officers and the Expedition Team modelled apparel from the gift shop.  

200,000 Seabirds

Our first landing today was at an old research station called Kinnvika in Murchisonfjorden which was erected for the first International Geophysical Year in 1957.

Kinnvika
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Nine of the eleven buildings they constructed for that project still stand today.  The men stationed at Kinnvika were studying many things including geomagnetism, atmospheric chemistry, observations of the sun, the ionosphere, geomagnetism, aurora and cosmic rays.  They were a small but important part of a global research project involving 60,000 scientists from 60 nations.

Like the air and the clouds above us, the landscape was cold and grey.  

Alkefjellet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Alkefjellet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Alkefjellet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

In the afternoon we cruised along the incredible sea bird cliffs of Alkefjellet from the comfort of Fram.   This was the nesting site for 120,000 Brunichs Guillemots plus numerous Black-legged Kittiwakes, and other seabirds.  The total population of birds on these impressive cliffs would be in the neighbourhood of 200,000.  Looking at the birds filling the sky it seemed as if you could see all of them at once.

Walrus at Torellneset
Photo © Morten Hilmer

After the amazing cliffs of Alkefjellet we  landed near a low sandy beach at Torellneset where a large group of male walruses were hauled out in a tight cluster.   It was fantastic to watch the interactions of the huge males as they seemed to jockey for better positions.  Eventually a group of three young males separated from the main group and following the shoreline swam towards us.  They were quite curious and it was wonderful to see for a brief time from just a few metres away.

Walrus at Torellneset
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Three Polar Bears, Two Blue Whales, Walruses, Fin Whales, Minke Whales, Killer Whales, Bearded Seals...

Blue Whale
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Whoee!! Today was a (choose your own superlative) wildlife day!  We saw two of the largest animals to ever live; two Blue Whales (although there has been a recent fossil discovery to suggest that the mighty Blue may be the second biggest).  The Blue Whale is also an endangered species making the experience a rare event.  There are approximately 8,000 Blue Whales worldwide.  In the same area we also saw several Fin Whales, the second largest animal to ever live, or is it the third now? No matter. They are magnificent either way.

But let’s start at the beginning.  We began our day by ship cruising near the face of Monaco Glacier in Liefdefjorden bright and early at 08:30.  As usual there were hundreds of seabirds feeding right at the glacier face in particular there were many Kittiwakes and Northern Fulmars but also numerous Glaucous Gulls, Black Guillemots and a few Arctic Skuas.

Our plan after Monaco was to cruise past the old hunter’s cabin at Mushamna and continue to Moffin Island to visit the Walruses.  From there we would continue as far north and east as we could go.  Our ultimate destination was to reach the pack ice.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Shortly after leaving Monaco we spotted a large Polar Bear exploring along the shore line.  The Captain was able to maneuver Fram to within a couple of hundred metres of the shore where we had terrific views of the ivory coloured bear.  No sooner did we bid adieu to the bear when there came an announcement that two more Polar Bears had been spotted. 

Photo © Morten Hilmer

This time it was a mother and coy (cub of the year).  The pair were lying in a green area on the side of a small hill.  The two bears were so insistent on resting that the only interest they showed in Fram was to sleepily raise their heads from time to time and gaze blearily at us.

In the afternoon we cruised by Mushamna and there on the beach was a lone Walrus, also catching a few zees.  It too raised it’s head at Fram’s passing and then, z-z-z-z. Back to sleep.

A couple of hours later we arrived just north of the magic latitude of 80ºN at Moffin Island where a group of about thirty long-tusked pinnipeds lay lounging on the beach.  More Walruses! 

Walrus haul out.  Moffin Island.
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Moffin is a wildlife sanctuary and much more often then not, when we arrive at the extremely small low sandy island there are one or two groups of Walruses huddled on the beach.

From Moffin we headed north and east looking for the ice edge but en route we encountered an extremely rich body of ocean.  It was teeming with wildlife.  As we looked around the ship we could see the blows of several large whales.  There were also large groups of seals here and there, as well as a significant increase in the numbers of seabirds.  

On closer inspection it turned out that two of the whales were Blues! At times we were able to get quite close as the whales were intent on feeding on krill.  During their feeding forays dozens of Kittiwakes would swoop down and pick off their left-overs.

In the same vicinity were several Fin Whales and the occasional Minke Whale.

After fighting our way through all of the wildlife… (admittedly I used the word “fighting” for dramatic effect.  No harm was done to any animals during the making of this blog or during our cruise). After slowly cruising beyond the magnificent Blues, we encountered the pack-ice.

Cruising in the pack ice.
Photo © Morten Hilmer

And at 18:00 we dropped the PC boats and took everyone for a spin in the ice.  If you’ve never done it before it is a lot of fun.  It really is the best way to see ice.  Be in a small boat right in the pack.  Wonderful.

Finally at 21:00 everyone was back on the ship and Fram turned her bow towards more Arctic adventures for the morrow.

Oh, right!  I almost forgot to mention that a few lucky people saw a group of Killer Whales in the morning!!

Magnificent Magdalena on a Glorious day.

Ny Ålesund
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Back in Norway (after a Russian night in Barentsburg last evening) we awoke to a cloudy and foggy day. That soon proved to change for something better, much better. The clouds lifted like the evaporation of fresh dew on a summer morning and revealed a Svalbard day unsurpassed by any other.

Fram at Ny Ålesund Quai
Photo © Morten Hilmer

As we disembarked Fram very little was to be seen of Ny-Ålesund, but on this day, like many others – something higher than our hopes for glorious adventures brings to life something unique and indeed beautiful.  We were expecting to launch our polar circle boats but a call came. The other cruise ship had canceled their arrival.

Tender Pit and Fram Crew
Photo © Morten Hilmer

  

We had the entire city and its inhabitants to ourselves, and the guests thoroughly enjoyed it.  

Sun shine came and the view of the turquoise glaciers blended nicely with the still waters around the fjord. We saw walruses in the evening as we went out of the Magdalena fjord.

Magdalena Bay
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Its been claimed to be one the 100 places to see before you die, and we – here at Fram – wholeheartedly concur. 

Ralf From the Expedition Team
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Nesting Arctic Terns Gravneset
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Another Arctic Adventure Begins

Most people arrived at MV Fram between 15:30 & 16:30.  While the queues for checkin were a little long at times the process of checking in went remarkably quickly when you consider we received 200 guests all at the same time! Before too long everyone had been issued a photo I.D. card and were escorted to their cabin. The luggage had made it onto the ship before us and was already outside our cabin door by the time we arrived.

Before Fram left the pier we all participated in a mandatory safety drill.  When we heard seven short alarms followed by a long alarm we were instructed to assemble at our muster stations on deck five. We were then instructed on how evacuation and safety procedures would unfold should an emergency occur. 

Soon enough we were under way and headed for our first destination, the curious Russian coal mining community of Barentsburg.  We arrived at the pier at approximately 20:30 where we assembled in language groups with the Expedition Team and local Russian guides who would lead us to the key points of interest.

Barentsburg
Photo © Andrew Wenzel

Barentsburg Guide
Photo © Andrew Wenzel

Barentsburg is unique.  From the moment you step on the pier it feels like you have entered another country.  Mining for coal started here in 1916.  Ownership of the mines changed hands a couple of times but was resold to a Russian company in 1932.  The mines were nearly completely destroyed in WWII by the Germans but were rebuilt in the 50’s.  Through the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s work was sought after in Barentsburg.  It was very well paid and food was free.

Old Church in Barentsburg
Photo © Andrew Wenzel

Now Barentsburg is a community of 450 people.   The buildings are in various states of repair and disrepair.  Some were leaning at odd angles and were obviously unfit to be occupied.  Others had spiffy new exteriors and had been renovated.  Many of the buildings were typical Russian architecture.   Barentsburg has a feeling of a ghost town except people live and work there all year round. 

Barentsburg:  Statue of Lenon
Photo © Andrew Wenzel

We learned a little bit about what life might be like in a coal mine high in the Arctic.  All of the miners were on a two year contract.  It was obligatory for them to take two months off at the end of their contract after which they could sign on again and many of them did.

Gift Shop Items
Photo © Andrew Wenzel

At the end of the 30 minute tour we had time to explore the community on our own.   There was the brand new Red Bear Brewery and pub with a couple of light beers on tap.  There was the post office which featured a special Barentsburg stamp and there was a well stocked souvenir shop in the main culture house.

Gift Shop Items
Photo © Andrew Wenzel

The folk show began at 22:00 and was very entertaining with lots of traditional Russian folk music and dancing.

By 23:15 everyone was back on board the ship.

Beluga Whales, Polar Bears and Blue Skies

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Our day started with an early morning announcement from Karin Strand, our Expedition Leader, “Good morning everyone.  We have a group of Beluga whales outside of the ship”.  Who cared that it was only 06:30?  Many people leapt out of bed, grabbed their cameras and rushed out on deck to see  about thirty beautiful white whales not far from the ship.  And then about 45 minutes later, another announcement only this time a Polar Bear had been spotted on shore.  First while whales and now a white bear.  A really great Arctic wildlife experience. 

What a difference a day of sunshine makes.  What is it about a clear blue day that puts a smile on everyone’s face?  When you combine a sunny, windless day with some spectacular scenery, well, no wonder everyone was smiling all day long.

Kittiwakes in front of Monacobreen
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Today we arrived at Monacobreen at the head of Liefdefjorden at approximately 09:30.  A note to all of you non-Scandinavians out there:  breen means glacier.  Monacobreen translates directly to Monaco glacier. Fjorden is more obvious.

As per usual when we are at Monaco Glacier we put just about everyone in the Polar Cirkel boats to explore along the magnificent glacier front.  Of course we don’t have room for everyone all at the same time but by the end of the morning everyone but the hikers and kayakers had had an opportunity to see the glacier from a close but safe distance.

Glaucous Gull eating a Kittiwake
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Meanwhile the hikers had a magnificent morning to climb to 630 metres to a mountain peak with a really great view of the entire Liefdefjorden.  Needless to say, the kayakers had perfect paddling conditions.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

All of that was followed by a delicious lunch bbq outside on deck seven.

And that was just the first half of the day.

At 16:00 we arrived at the hunter’s cabin in Mushamna.  It is quite a lovely site.  The large cabin was made entirely from driftwood that floated its way here all the way from Siberia.

After the landing at Mushamna we cruised ever further north.  Our goal was to reach the wildlife sanctuary of Moffen Island.  Moffen lies at the lofty latitude of 80º N plus a hair.  No landings are allowed on the island nor is it possible to cruise in small boats.  Upon arrival it was apparent why.  This is critical habitat for walruses.  As we slowly approached Moffen we could see approximately 100 Walrus lying huddled together by the water’s edge.  The waters around Moffen support large clam beds which are the main food source for Walruses.

At approximately 22:30 we crossed latitude 80ºN., a cause for celebration!

At 23:00 the sun was still shining, still high in the sky at close to 45º.

Fog Bound

Once again we were enveloped in a thick blanket of fog.  A sound track of an old creaking sailing ship and sea gulls screaming would have been an appropriate backdrop to our day at sea. 

Even though we had a relaxing day there were plenty of fun and interesting activities to keep everyone engaged.  On every voyage we set aside some time for everyone to visit the bridge.  Invariably that will happen on a sea day.  And since today was a sea day…

A bridge visit is an opportunity to learn just a little about what is involved in navigating a high tech cruise ship like Fram.  Gone are the romantic days of a stoic sailor standing steadfast at the helm struggling with a wheel a metre and a half in diameter.  Nowadays the steering of modern ships is done with a petit joy stick.  A nudge left, a nudge right, a toggle here and there.  I’ve seen video game consoles with bigger joysticks. It is also a chance to get to know the Captain a little bit as he explains the various ship’s systems such as the radar, steering, the engines and the stabilizers.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

 

There are about 40 children on board and there have been programs organized to keep them engaged as well.  For example this morning everyone was busy drawing Polar Bears and then in the afternoon for big and small kids alike, there was the first round of an open table tennis competition.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Our lectures today included an open air session with the ship’s photographer, a lecture in Chinese and a lecture on whales with Chinese translation.

The activities for the day concluded with a fun fashion show.  As is now the wont on board Fram, the ship’s officers and the Expedition Team modelled many of the items available in the gift ship. And as per usual, everyone had a good time because what the models lacked in poise and grace they more than made up for in enthusiasm.