On the Way to Island

We are at the middle of Denmark Strait but if we look outside it looks more as we are somewhere at Caribbean Sea. No wind, no waves, no fog and no rain. It is really unbelievable weather, as for that region of the Atlantic Ocean.

Day at sea is usually the day when lecture program is at the full speed. Many of use the opportunity to learn more about what we have seen and what we might see at Island. It is also time to relax and enjoy the beautiful weather on the outside decks.

Late afternoon we had Farewell Capitan’s Cocktail. Yes, our trip is getting in to the end. Just two more nights on board and we have to fly home. Right after that we had an auction of Hurtigruten flag which waved on MV Fram mast during our whole voyage, followed by auction of navigation chart of Greenland with our route marked on it. The chart was also beautifully decorated by one of our staff member, Greenlandic artist – Miki. All together we collected 1000 US dollars. The money will be donated to “Association for Greenlandic Children” to help the Greenlandic youth get better education.

It Feels Like We Are On Holidays!

Prince Christian Sound
Photo © Anke Timmerberg

Phew.  A day at sea.  It feels like we are on holidays.  Oh wait.  We are on holidays.  The first eight days of this voyage have been intense.  We have been very busy every day.  We have seen a lot of fantastic scenery, whales, icebergs by the thousands, glaciers, muskox, we have visited Greenlanders in their homes and gone on long hikes.  We have gone on small boat excursions, some of us went on a helicopter tour, some of us went whale watching, we’ve attended many lectures and have enjoyed fabulous food.  

Prince Christian Sound
Photo © Anke Timmerberg

After all of that, a day at sea seems like a vacation from the vacation.  It is a chance to kick back and watch the ocean roll by. On Fram there are numerous picture windows and lots of places to sit quietly and enjoy the scenery.  But a day at sea still has lots going on.  For example, this morning at approximately 06:00 we entered Prince Christian Sound.  Without doubt it is one of the more dramatically beautiful spots on earth.

Chef Johan Ludwig
Photo © Anke Timmerberg

We had dried fish fish and fish oil sampling with our chef Johan Ludwig this morning on deck seven.  What do you expect?  We’re on a Norwegian ship with a Norwegian chef!  

We had lectures and documentary films scheduled throughout the afternoon and the evening at 22:00 was the always entertaining crew show.  Another busy day. True.  But the pace of life on sea days is relaxed.  There is time for napping.  Time for a sauna or stint in the gym. And there is time to do nothing.

Our Repeat Travellers,
Photo © Anke Timmerberg

We have noted that on this trip there are many repeat guests travelling with us. Some people on board have sailed with us three, even four times.  For us it is wonderful to see so many familiar friendly faces.  It makes us feel good that you appreciate what we try to do for you and that you come back again and again and again.  We are obviously doing something right.  But don’t worry.  We will never rest on our laurels.  We are constantly trying to improve and we are constantly striving to discover new experiences and opportunities which we can present to you.  To all of the repeat travellers on board we extend a huge thank-you for coming to see us again.

Everyone!
Photo © Anke Timmerberg

To everyone with us for the first time.  Talk to the repeaters!  We hope that we will see you again (and again).

But wait a second.  This is starting to sound like a farewell blog posting.  Not at all!  We still have two whole days before Reykjavik!

Hvalsey and Qaqortoq

In the morning we visited the best preserved Norse (Vikings) ruins in all of Greenland – Hvalsey farmstead. According to Sturlubók Landnámu, one of the Old Icelandic Norse (Viking) texts, the farm was established by Thorkell Farsek – Erik the Red’s cousin, in around 985 A.D. The last confirmed Norse (Viking) event in Greenland – a wedding in 1408, also took place at that farm. Even after more than 1000 years the church ruins are still in quite good shape. It was fairly easy to picture how busy live must have been on the farm around 600 years ago, while walking between the ruins with the sheep from the nearby farmhouse running around.

 

Shortly before noon we heaved the anchor and during the lunch we sailed to Qaqortoq – south Greenland most populous town. Everybody enjoyed either visiting the museum, walking around the fountain at the old town square or strolling through the town in search for “Stone and Man” sculptures. Some visited the Great Greenland Tannery or made a 11 km nature walk around the Great Lake.

Narsaq & Qassiarsuk

Photo © Anke Timmerberg

We’re in South Greenland now.  You can see many differences between here and the Disko Bay area that we frequented for the past several weeks.  The terrain is more mountainous.  The vegetation a little taller, a little more lush.  This morning we landed in Narsaq.  It is one of the larger communities in Greenland with a population of ~ 1600.  There is agriculture here with sheep farming just outside of town and even locally grown potatoes.  I watched with amazement as a farmer mowed and bailed hay.  Real hay in Greenland.  The wildflowers are different too.  Common Harebells grow in abundance as does Buttercup, Yarrow and Ladie’s Mantle to mention just a few.

Once again there were plenty of icebergs impeding our progress which meant that we arrived about an hour late.

We had many optional excursions available and despite our slight tardiness arriving in Narsaq, all of the excursions departed (and returned  :^)     ).  We had eighteen different boat excursions to Qooroq Glacier (which ran all day long), a kayaking group, three different hiking groups and an excursion to the Viking ruins.  And that was just the first half of our day!

In the afternoon we visited the beautiful town of Qassiarsuk.  The boat excursions continued into the evening to Qooroq.  In addition, several people opted for a tour to the Erik the Red settlement and we also provided a long hike in the back country behind Qassiarsuk.  

With two different landings and with hiking, kayaking and boat excursions running throughout the day it was very important that the weather cooperate.  As you can see in the photos, it could not have been a better day.

Narsaq
Photo  © Andrew Wenzel

Kayaking Narsaq
Photo  © Tessa van Drie

Kayaking Narsaq 

Photo  © Tessa van Drie

Qassiarsuk
Photo  © Andrew Wenzel

Lief Erikson statue, Qassiarsuk
Photo  © Anke Timmerberg

Ivittuut – rocks & minerals

Today’s landing was scheduled at 14:00 so we started our day with briefings and lectures. We also had some time for ourselves which was nice. In the morning it was a bit foggy but as we approached Ivittuut the weather cleared up very nicely and we started landing according to plan. Ivittuut is a ghost town today but in the past it was quite a busy town built around a cryolite quarry. The mining started in the 1920s and with time the mine became the world’s biggest cryolite source, bringing incredible wealth to Ivittuut. Why was that mineral so expensive? By adding cryolite to aluminium oxide, the melting temperature of aluminium was lowered by half at this reduced production costs immensely. Discovery of synthetic replacement for cryolite in the beginning of 1980s brought an end to the mining. Today only a few buildings and a 80m-deep quarry filled with water resemble splendour of the town. One of the buildings was turned to a museum and had a display of minerals which could be found around the mine. 

 Not only minerals were the highlight. We have seen Musk ox! In 1988, 19 specimens were introduced and by 2012 are about 500 of them.

To All Of The Generous People That Travel With Us, Thank you!!

Hurtigruten's MV Fram donates 78,800 DKK ($12,900) to the
Association of Greenlandic Children

During our Greenland, Spitsbergen and Antarctic expedition cruises we host a charity auction near the end of every voyage.  We have raised many thousands of dollars.  This is not something that we have to do, but something we have chosen to do to “give back” to the places we visit.  In Greenland we donate to the Association of Greenlandic Children and today at noon, on board Fram was the presentation of the funds.  What a marvelous feeling it was to give a cheque of 78,000 DKK to two young representatives of the Association.  Imagine that.  78,000 DKK was raised in just five cruises in Greenland.  We would like to shout out a huge thank-you to all of the generous people that travel with us and either bid at our auctions or just donated funds at the close of the auctions. Your generosity is deeply appreciated.

Today was our big day in the capital city of Greenland, Nuuk.  There were opportunities to explore the city with a bus tour or to cruise the coast line of Nuuk Fjord by boat.

Shuttle buses transported people from Fram to Katuaq, the Cultural Centre and the National museum throughout the day.

It seems that we brought the good weather with us as it has been cloudy and rainy here in Nuuk for the past two weeks.  Not so today. We experienced more glorious sunshine and even warmer temperatures - 16˚C!

Now we make our way even further south.  We are on our way to Ivittuut.  

Sisimiut

We started the day with a short briefing about planed activities in Sisimiut. In the plan were three optional excursions: Historical walk to Teleisland, boat trip to Assaqutaq and hike to Palaasip Qaqqa Mountain. We were informed that the Palaasip Qaqqa hike is more a climb than a hike (4-5 hours steady, steep climb up to over 500 m above sea level) and that only very fit people should consider that excursion.

We were also informed that this was “Plan A” and due to thick fog some changes might occur. Indeed, as most of us noticed already during the breakfast, the visibility was not good and some of us were even talking about possible changes. Oh well, that’s expedition so we were prepared for that.

Miraculously, as MV Fram entered the Sisimiut Bay,the fog gradually started to disappear. We were back in “Plan A” but the so called “expedition troll” stayed with us. We could do all planed excursion but … we couldn’t go with Fram alongside to the pier. A cargo ship was on its way to Sisimiut and they had priority to use the pier. Conclusion: we had to stay at anchor and use our Polar Circle Boats to bring us ashore. No problem – it’s fun to have a ride in these speed boats. Especially in this calm, sunny weather.

We stayed in Sisimiut till 15:30 so we had also enough time to visit the town. The old town, museum and local handicraft workshop were really worth a visit.

Before we left, one Inuit came in his kayak close to the Fram and made a incredible show for us. It is unbelievable how great skills these people have in handling a kayak.

So, how was the day? … Let’s the pictures do the talking!


View from Palaasip Qaqqa



Bethel Church from 1775



In the town



Kayak show

Ilulissat Means Icebergs

Today was all about icebergs. All sizes. Small ones, big ones, really big ones. All shapes. Like snow flakes. Every one a different shape. Hm. Curious. They once were snow flakes. Billions and billions of snowflakes over centuries piling up deeper and deeper getting heavier and heavier. Compressing. Turning snow into ice. And then the ice, still getting deeper, spills over the gigantic basin it sits in and slowly, inexhorably makes it’s way down to the sea. The glacier seeks the path of least resistance carving out huge valleys and fjords and dumping the debris en route and into the ocean. And as ice meets sea, the ice begins to break up creating icebergs. The icebergs we saw today came from Sermeq Kujaleq glacier. The most productive glacier in the northern hemisphere. The size of the area that feeds this one glacier is 110,000 ㎢. All of that ice flows down into Kangia Fjord at a rate of 19 metres/day. It then takes 12 to 15 months for the ice to make its way to the mouth of the fjord and into Disko Bay where the bigger bergs get hung up on an undersea moraine embankment. The sight of that huge sea of ice is really impressive.

We started off the morning with all excursions going hither thither and yon. Boat load after boat load of people saw the mouth of Kangia from the sea. Others hiked through town and out to the fjord. Helicopters flitted back and forth from the terminus of the glacier. Many people combined excursions and saw the ice from land and sea and a few people managed all three views.

The weather cooperated completely. We had sunny skies all day long. And believe me, it’s a long day when it’s July north of the Arctic Circle.

The last excursion returned to the ship at approximately 20:00 and shortly after that we lifted the anchor. It’s 23:05 and the sun is still shining brightly as we make our way towards Sisimiut.

On the way to “good harbour”.

After a good, night of sleep (if we can call it night – the Sun is above the horizon 24 hours a day) and breakfast buffet, we started our day activity. The first landing is scheduled at 18:00 but it doesn’t mean that we have nothing to do until that time. Shortly after breakfast we had our first briefing. The AECO (Association of the Arctic Expedition Cruises Operators) presentation explained us how to behave safe, responsible and environmentally-friendly in the Arctic. Then, we had short introduction about today’s and tomorrow’s activities. We have so many additional excursions that we can book! No wonder that later on, there was long line in front of the Expedition Desk. Then, the “educational program” started with lectures in German and English. As always during the Expedition Cruise – we want not only to see the places but also learn about the region where we are sailing to.

At 17:45 Fram anchored in front of our first destination – Qeqertarsuaq on Disko Island. Here we could choose between two optional excursions. “Basalt & Volcano” (4 hours walk) or “Ice Cruising” in our Polar Circle Boat’s with possibility of whale watching. Of course we could also choose “Walk to the Valley of the Wind” (45 min. one way) or just stroll in the town. The place was well known to 18th century whalers and they most probable gave the place its Danish name – Godhavn (“good harbour”). Then, in 1773 a Danish trading post was established here. Till 1950, the town remained the most important northern community. Today Qeqertarsuaq has roughly 1000 inhabitants.

All excursions were a great success! In the Valley of the Wind, even though it is almost the end of the flowering season, we could still enjoy many flowers. It is amazing how colorful the tundra can be!

The long walkers had a chance to see the beautiful lava structures, remains from volcanic activity from about 50 million years ago. It was interesting to learn that Disko Island is the youngest part of Greenland!

“Ice Cruising” turned out to be an exciting whale watching excursion. We spotted a Fin Whale and a Humpback Whale. Two species during two hours – not bad!

But the best part of today started about half an hour after our departure. Three Humpback Whales made a “midnight show” for us. The highlight of the show was Humpback Whale calf breaching!

Day 1 of A Greenlandic Adventure

Our charter flight landed at the Kangerlussuaq airport shortly after 16:00. Indeed, most international flights to Greenland utilize the same airport. It is the gateway to Greenland. The small town is very utilitarian looking which is not surprising. Originally it was a United States air base called Bluie West 8. It was built in 1941 at a time when Denmark could no longer ensure Greenland's safe supply and security.

We were met at the airport by some of the Expedition Team from the MS Fram. Before long we boarded a bus which was to take us to the ship. A quiet, lonely road wound through an austere, rocky landscape and then suddenly, the road ended and there was the fjord.

And there lay the ship. Our new home away from home. A quick five minute boat ride brought us to the ship. We were very efficiently checked in on deck three, issued I.D cards and room key-cards and then escorted to our rooms.

 Before we heaved the anchor, at 18:00 there was a mandatory safety drill. At 21:00 the Captain gave a warm welcome speech. We were also introduced to the officers and some of the key personnel on the ship including the Expedition Team.

 

Now it is 22:00 and Fram glides gracefully down the fjord. There is a light breeze. The sea is so calm that watching the inspiring scenery glide by is like watching a 3D movie. Only it is not a movie. You are here. This is real. The adventure you dreamed about is just beginning.Kangerlussuaq is situated at the head of a 170 km Fjord of the same name. Kangerlussuaq means the long fjord.

Goodbye Itilleq!

 In the morning we silently sailed southwards over a flat calm sea and through a thick layer of fog. It was a good morning to be on board and we had lots of options to spend our time; we could visit the bridge, attend lectures or just relax and have a cup of coffee. At 13.00 we arrived in Itilleq where everybody got a Kaffemik card upon arrival. Each little card had a colour that represented a house in the little village. With help of the maps hanging on the walls of some of the houses we could walk over to the right house. There the owners were waiting for us with coffee and cookies. A special occasion to see how the people in Itilleq live! At 15.00 it was match time again! M/V Fram playing soccer against Itilleq. And this time we had enough players from the M/V Fram to make a team.

We started slow... 0-1 ... 0-2 .. 2-1 ... 3-1.... but then 3-3 and in the last minutes we won with 4-3! It was an exiting game.Now Itilleq has to wait until next year for their revanche! We will be ready! Thank you for the fantastic games Itilleq, we are looking forward to come back! At 17.00 everybody was on board again to sail further southwards towards Kangerlussuaq. In the evening we had the Captain's coctail, the charity auction and our last dinner on board M/V Fram.



Ilulissat: A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Photo © Mark McDermott

In Ilulissat there is something for everyone. Restaurants, gift shops, cafés, helicopter excursions to the glacier Sermeq Kujalleq, boat trips to Kangia (Ice Fjord) and hikes to Sermermiut.

Despite the rain that fell off and on for most of the day it seemed like almost everyone saw the Ice Fjord in one way or another. The only thing the rain and low lying clouds truly put a damper on were the helicopter trips to see the head of the Fjord but everything else went as scheduled.



Photo © Mark McDermott



The views at Sermermiut were spectacular. A river of ice stretched as far as the eye could see. Sermec Kujalleq glaciar moves 19 metres a day which produces 35 cubic kilometres of ice/year. Witnessing all of the ice at Sermermiut it seemed as if the glaciar had been working overtime. It is really an awe inspiring sight whether it is from the sea or from the banks of the fjord. Many people managed to do both.



Photo © Andrew Wenzel



By 19:30 we were all back aboard the Fram. As we lifted the anchor and began our journey further south towards Itilleq the clouds began to part and the sun shone once again.

In the evening at 22:00 we were entertained by the crew show. We have many talented people working on board. There was Philipino folk dancing, many songs (mostly ballads) and Fram’s version of the Chippendales - The Sex Ball Dancers!



Photo © Andrew Wenzel



Now it is 21:00. It is largely overcast but once and a while the sun throws a shaft of light through the clouds which illuminates the icebergs like a giant spot light. Beautiful.

Enjoying the ICE every minute of the day!

Last week we launched with success the activity "Arctic Sky and Ice, Sleeping on the deck". As soon we arrive in the waters around Disko Island the vessel is surrounded by many icebergs in the most amazing shapes. It is midsummer here right now and the sun is at its lowest around 01.00 a.m., giving the sky a deep red and golden colour. It's a magic experience to see the sun shining on the icebergs during this time of the night! The beds are ready at 23.00 O'clock, sleeping bags and pillows puffed up. As soon the passengers are comfortably lying in their beds they get served a "welcome outside" drink, hot chocolate and some refreshments. Some passengers can't resist the views and crawl out off their sleeping bags again to take pictures and film the spectacular views. Others just keep lying and are silently enjoying. And some passengers are so tired of the day and fresh air that they fall asleep straight away. 
Those who stay until 06:00, get fresh pastry and coffee served as a pre-breakfast.Ready to start a new day. Today we started at 9.00 with an extra landing at Qulissat. This old mining settlement was abandoned precisely 40 years ago after the mine was closed. Normally we only meet a few people while strolling through the streets, that are persons who are spending their holiday in the settlement. But today we could see numerous little boats in the bay upon arrival. Tomorrow they will memorize the fact that the coal mines were closed. Kuupik Kleist, the Prime Minister of Greenland, born in Qullisat, is one of the
awaited guests, they expect 500-1000 in total! It will be a kind of festival gathering offering theater, music and the possibility to meet old friends.

Around 16.30 the captain announced it was impossible to reach the landing site near glacier Eqip Sermia in time because of the ice, so we went for plan B: Icecruising, what a great alternative. And so we filled some more time of this day with enjoying the ice, the pictures explain the rest.