16th Century, Red Bay – the Capital of Whaling!
Well, maybe not the capital, but certainly in those days one of the most
important and largest of the at least 16 whaling stations along the seashore of
the area.
In the only 300-souls-village we were surprised to find 3
beautifully set up exhibitions on whales and whaling. The skeleton of a big
bowhead whale was on display and a ‘chalupa’, an old rowing boat used to hunt
these big beasts. It was only a little longer than the mandibles of the whale
lying next to it for a scale reference. All these items, together with the
remains of four galleons, were found on the seafloor at Red Bay by underwater
archaeologists.
Hard to believe that until the 1970s, nobody knew about all
this history. Only then, British researcher Selma Barkham started to
investigate in the Basque region of southern France and northern Spain old
records of different types. She revealed the large-scale whale fishery carried
out by the Basques in the 16th century in Canada (after they had
exterminated the local right whale population in the Bay of Biscay) and it was
only then that the different artefacts were discovered in Red Bay. Not only
under water, but also a large cemetery of approximately 140 whalers was found
on Saddle Island. Today, Red Bay’s collection is thought to be the best of its
kind in the world.
Not surprisingly, many of us spent the day
investigating the different museums. But the nice weather (again!) also invited
for a hike on Saddle Island to which a shuttle service with the polar circle
boats was set up. Others went on an even longer walk to up to Tracy Hill to
have a wonderful view and some went on an excursion to Point Amour.