|Polar Cirkel boat ride to the beach at Kinnvika|
|Helicopter used by researchers at Kinnvika|
|Historic buildings at Kinnvika|
Like the air and the clouds above us, the landscape was cold and grey. We meandered through the science ghost town and into the Arctic Tundra beyond. We walked on sharp shards of rock that had been splintered and shattered by the freezing, melting and refreezing of water countless times over countless millennia.
In the afternoon we cruised along the incredible sea bird cliffs of Alkefjellet from the comfort of Fram. The water was deep where the cliffs met the sea enabling us to come very close to the rock face. Black-legged Kittiwakes, Guillemots and Puffins perched precariously on thousands of tiny ledges. A confusion of birds filled the sky. How they avoided avian collisions was beyond my ken.
Soon after the amazing cliffs of Alkefjellet Fram cautiously approached the low sandy beach at Torellneset where a group of about twenty male walruses were hauled out in a tight thigmotactic cluster. To have such an extraordinary opportunity to witness these splendid animals in such a wild and remote location was indeed a very special privilege.
We still had many miles to sail through the night so after about fifteen minutes we went back on course moving steadily eastward on the northern section of our circumnavigation of Svalbard.